Got Ford Galaxy Ghia 2008 103 kw.3 days everything was ok..Since i have pulled steering wheel closer to me engine have start to cut off and tacho stopped working..Have checked all fuses everything ok..Cold start and it has keep shutting down without any warning light..Tacho (IC) repaired..Have gone to Garage to change Diesel Filter and housing..have thinking cuz of that it cuts off..After OBD Diagnostic and reading codes it was error code on PCM Immobilizer..After that on IC it was saying Immobilizer activ..wont crank..Been told to check wiring harness leading to ECU..Have checked every wire and have found that some wires have been repaired already...Have reprogrammed keys and got working car again but cutting off 2-3 times and was able to drive..Next day iv tried to isolate wiring harness again but after touching the wires in "Y" slope have heard relays clicking like mad..Have tried to start the car..All sort of christmas light on das..glowing plugs and ESP staying on and Engine Malfunction..Even after opening doors relay clicks..i think its PCM relay but ain't sure..It starts but cutts off immediately..sometimes it says Immo active but it cranks..Have moved positive wire from battery on side..Where to check first..Motor wire harness is exposed..on one wire i have moved isolation and under its burnt copper and it is black..To remove and replace that wire would be pain in the ***** cuz it going from ECU to Y slope but not to fuse box..other way around to another side of engine i think..

I was thinking problem why it keep cutting off after cold start was problem with air in diesel  lines on diesel filter housing..its wobbly..Day before i have wobbled housing and have seen on dash blinking glow plugs and esp and bubbles in hose it self..Searching in engine wire harness it looks impossible to do

Sorry to hear...this looks like a disaster of wiring (burnt wire is a real worry and possible fire risk. If that is damaged a repair and total inspection to fix collateral damage needed?)

We don't know history as it looks like a lot of potential damage has been done previously?
The key point I note is of moving the steering wheel as there may be multiple connections disturbed?
Beyond that I wonder what fault codes are present, battery itself (always a worry) and heavy connections including earth strap (clicking relays signifies  dodgy connection somewhere of large proportions to me?)
A wobbly filter etc etc tells me that there has been likely some very poor maintenance going on which needs sorting as well?

What is "Y" slope?
Really need to take a breath and list the codes fix obvious issues then try to start solving the many other issues that seem to be present?

Before Immobiliser active warning on dash there was only one code on diagnostic..It was in PCM and it was about immobiliser..Diagnostic done and code was not possible to delete..After programming keys again it was possible to drive a car with engine cutting off randomly..Wobbly filter i assume someone did a very sloppy job to change it..What codes it showing now i dont know..im getting FORscan this week and then can tell more..Y slope is on the harness it self (harness going from fuse box under to ECU and other way to another fuse box under the glove box..on middle of the engine it goes in two ways and making Y sign)..It seems im gonna need good electrician to try to solve problem or in the end to change whole harness..Car is at this time is parked up front cuz i try to find someone good at it that can prove every connection and change some wires on the spot..to be even better its snowing the whole time..I got car like last week..its a really electrical gremlin

13 hours ago, Shearers said:

Sorry to hear...this looks like a disaster of wiring (burnt wire is a real worry and possible fire risk. If that is damaged a repair and total inspection to fix collateral damage needed?)

We don't know history as it looks like a lot of potential damage has been done previously?
The key point I note is of moving the steering wheel as there may be multiple connections disturbed?
Beyond that I wonder what fault codes are present, battery itself (always a worry) and heavy connections including earth strap (clicking relays signifies  dodgy connection somewhere of large proportions to me?)
A wobbly filter etc etc tells me that there has been likely some very poor maintenance going on which needs sorting as well?

What is "Y" slope?
Really need to take a breath and list the codes fix obvious issues then try to start solving the many other issues that seem to be present?

 

Yes, that does look like a bit of a mess so checking beyond the points where the insulation is removed (anywhere like the "Y"  where cables split is a possible point of failure)
Forscan for codes (with correct lead - see elsewhere, V-Linker, Amazon, special for Forscan recommended)
Looks like some corrosion possible on earthing points(remove, clean, Vaseline or other suitable stuff - not grease)  and check of earth lead would be a good idea too?

Its solved..All wires checked up and soldered again..isolated and back in harness..New battery and programmed injectors..Its running like a clock again..I was lucky to find one good mechanic/electrical man and have solved everything in half a hour 

Well spoked too soon..On cold starts its just shuts down..Couple of times shows ESP warning light just before it cuts off..After 5 or 6 shuts down it working normal..Going to read the codes again maybe shows something

As it has run "perfeck" for a bit, hopefully you can get some solid codes that can lead you to the fault?

Were the earth leads all checked and cleaned and the strap checked?

Today was one code on FORscan..P0202..Deleted and that was it..After consultation with mechanic have take injector additive and made full tank with premium diesel and have drove it on highway for 60-70 km everything seems fine and ok..Not one wrong code after the drive..Tomorrow going to change diesel filter and that's it..Don't wanna anymore headache..gonna leave it how it is..as long it starts right up and ain't making problems when driving its good enough for me..

Again on start..Car just cutts out couple of times on a cold start sometimes with Engine Malfunction message..and later on trough the day are not making problem..drives normally without cutting.. 

U0100 B10A2 U3001.. Can delete them..they coming back sometimes

1.Maybe battery over night dropping under 12v and its possible to start the car but not possible communication with the sensors..After couple of engine shut downs charge going up and then its working car again

2.Broken connection in wires somewhere again

3.PCM is corrupt or damaged

It making problems only when its parked over night..trough the day it starting and driving..Have changed MAF sensor cuz sometimes got sluggish acceleration from 80 kmh upwards..Lets say same when pressing gas pedal all the way down and leaving it to half and then again pressing it..Not stuttering but noticeably same as going against the wind..It driving me really nuts 

Like always starting from inexpensive stuff..Yesterday have disconnected battery over night..today have before starting seen 11.9v..Have started the car and it was keep running..Not even one shutdown..Two options now..something draining battery over night..car got enough power to start but after drop in voltage after starting not enough juice to send all messages between moduls i guess..New battery should stay on 12v over night if something not draining battery

Good idea to disconnect battery as a first test (always a weak point-living on borrowed time) so new one may be required - get it tested and/or look for parasitic drain easiest with clamp meter, cheaper than 1/2 hr of diagnostics? Such as:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08PNTHS4C?th=1

Trigger all door locks and bonnet and watch for everything going to sleep.

Loads of videos detailing this on You Tube.

1 minute ago, Shearers said:

Good idea to disconnect battery as a first test (always a weak point-living on borrowed time) so new one may be required - get it tested and/or look for parasitic drain easiest with clamp meter, cheaper than 1/2 hr of diagnostics? Such as:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08PNTHS4C?th=1

Trigger all door locks and bonnet and watch for everything going to sleep.

Loads of videos detailing this on You Tube.

Dont know..maybe its just a coincidence now but i was thinking two days straight..U3001 is a code for improper shutdown of ABS module..On ABS module is IMMO saved too..But aint making sense..The code stays up allmost the whole time..After 10x restarting the engine the car working with and without code U3001...Have thinking dmn problems with fuel or anything similar..But today when battery was disconnected it fired right up and stayed on idle..A/C Clutch aint working too and got code for it...Maybe that was making the problem in first place..A/C clutch trying to engage and car shuts off..Making no sense after couple of starts the car doin great..not cutting when driving it..Gonna change battery this week and gonna start from there

Well..Update..dmn gonna be longer one xD

After cutting and shutting off and each day new code on FORscan on PCM..and after doing and undoing isolation 3 times from fuse box to PCM and wrong diagnose from start..U3001 ABS Module improper shutdown..not big deal..but U0100 PCM lost communication with ABS..cuz of that engine was shutting down..ABS harness checked..OK..Fuse box and fuses OK..BCM und fuses there OK..Without multimeter..CAN wires OK..have even removed everything in interior..whole dmn dash and everything with it..was OK..Even did PCM software update to rule out corrupted files..At end have taked out PCM and cover..Found water stains and a bit of moisture..and 3x big connectors on it full with grease...mud and all kind of crap..2x Contact spray..washed out PCM and connectors with it..did new silicon on cover and everything back..U3001 still there but it aint shutting down..no U0100 code on ABS..got same code on IPC module..missing Event its says..Reflashed PCM to my backup before update..Sluggish acceleration from the day one..pulsating acceleration sometimes on speeds over 100 kmh..have changed turbo pressure solenoid and blanked EGR..its better..but still got some kind of second delay after shifting up some sort of "turbo lag" but getting there..And every day at first start everything ok but after couple of minutes it starts to surge on idle..rpms going up and down..when holding gas pedal its ok..when driving like that its jerking..shut it off and start it then its ok and not happening until next day..P0645 AC Clutch relay..sometimes work and sometimes not..taking 2x 15a fuses out and back got it running every time..Just thinking PCM is at the end..With FORscan i can not write new VIN on junkyard PCM..got no IDS..Well i did not even know what PCM is..what BCM is..FORscan..flashing reflashing..PATS programming..But it was expensive scool not gonna lie...Photos from PCM

Sorry cuz of bad english..mixing a bit with german and auto correct :[

 

Need a bit help..Pulsating acceleration is gone..new turbo pressure solenoid did solve it..Thinking to get EGR Valve working again..have blanked it but aint seeing improvement..fuel consumption is bad..engine longer in warm phase and egr solenoid making strange noises..

I need a bit help with lets say it seems like turbo lag..On acceleration and faster changing gears car just lose power for 1-2 sec and then goes again..Noticable from 3-4-5-6..Have looked at graph on FORscan and aint seeing problem

Turbo Vane Position graph is all over the place..Lowest was 0.12% but not for long(when changing gears it drops under 30% and then goes up to 70%+..at idle is in 90% range

Fuel rail pressure..max was 220.000 kpa and jumps around from 60.000 upwards..on idle around 30-40.000 kpa

MAF max 141 on acceleration

MAP does change..on idle its 100 kpa on acceleration it goes up

Barrometric pressure stays allmost the same whole time..97 kpa

It was not acceleration on highway but hard accelerations betwen gears from third to sixt..What can make this problems and how to solve it

 

Log_2025-03-15_13.26.30.txt

Today after unlocking the car fan started to working right away..PCM relay clicking like mad..have leave it for couple of minutes then got FORscan connected..To much codes on PCM and Immobilizer active..after deleting codes have tried to do PATS again..got Security Access denied on Module Initilization on 26%..Have contacted FORscan support and have send the log files..they saying incoden what i got is OK und they have seen that once i have did PATS and it was success but now PCM wont accept the same code again..and there is no DTCs..FORscan did everything ok but problem is in my EEprom/DataFlash..Have found used PCM with every nummer same as i do..It seems VIN is not on SID206 PCM but on BCMi and to write VIN on PCM i need to do PATS again when i get that used PCM..

Question: do i neee to programm it..i got not AsBuilt data for my PCM says FORscan..but i got backup from mine before i did update..Do i need write that data to another PCM and do PATs or it just be enough to connect it and start the car?Or do i need IDS..FORscan team they told me as far as they know VIN is writen on PCM using PATS Module Initilisation on my type of car and my car is central electronic driven

33 minutes ago, Noone1 said:

Today after unlocking the car fan started to working right away.

Can we start with a simple easy test first ?

What is the battery voltage ?

Thats all tested..got new battery and after unlocking car and that show with relay connected showed 12.2v..My PCM is dead i think..have uploaded photos..water was inside..7 days car was working until today

P0604...P060C...U2100..U0426...P061C..P0606..All deleted after few tries but U0426 stays

Well can say problem is solved..After two months and over 5.000 KM driven with broken car cuz it was my only daily car there is end..Have bought another car (VW Sharan 2011) and next day repaired Galaxy...On internet did found PCM with every number the same as mine..65€..bargain..connect it..did PATS and car has started..Whole week been driving car..not even a hiccup..Been sad that i bought another car in first place..but im happy that i resolved the problem allmost alone..like i sayed..have not even known what PCM what PATS and what FORscan or IDS or BCMi is or any of this..it was very expensive study not gonna lie but still happy and sad that Ford need to go..Cant have two cars laying around..Thank ya for your help