Part no: 1096669
 

Do I need to replace the Hub Nut? If so, does anyone have the part number or specs? Can’t find it anywhere

Anyone know the Torque specs of the hub nut? I’ve got: 135Nm or Tighten to 80Nm + 90degrees turn

Do I need to replace the Lock and Ball joint bolt/nut? If so, does anyone have the part number or specs? Can’t find it anywhere
 

Could I possibly remove the driveshaft from the transmission without removing it from the wheel hub? Or will I not have enough clearance
 

 

Driveshaft Oil Seal Replacement:

 

Drain Transmission:

• Apply Handbrake / Jack car up 
• Remove underside cover (T30)
• Remove passenger wheel arch (T30) 
• Crack open Transmission Fill Plug (8mm Hex) (located on front of the transmission case) but Do Not Remove.
• Crack open and remove Transmission Drain Plug (8mm Hex)(located under passenger driveshaft)
• Remove Transmission Fill Plug & Let Drain.
• Clean & Refit Transmission Oil Drain Plug (tighten to 40Nm)

 

Remove and replace driveshaft oil seal:

• Remove Drivers side wheel (oil seal needs replacing)
• Remove wheel arch (T30)
• Clean around transmission with brake cleaner 
• Remove the wheel hub nut (32mm) (1”1/4)
• Use penetrating spray & tap driveshaft (wheel hub) 15-20mm into the wheel hub
• Remove ABS sensor plug & remove ABS sensor (T25)
• Remove Pinch Bolt from lower Lock and Ball pinch Joint (Torx55 & 18mm/15mm Bolt) (located south east of wheel face)
• Remove Track Rod bolt (17mm) (located east of wheel face), hit the knuckle until track rod frees and drops.

 

• Undo the bolt that secures the brake hose bracket to suspension strut (mm?) ??

 

• Remove metal cover casing around lock and ball joint, use a chisel to spread the knuckle to release the ball joint. 
• Use penetrating fluid and long pry bar to pry down on lower suspension arm (wishbone) off bottom ball joint, remove from the hub carrier.
• Tap the driveshaft through the wheel hub
• Swivel the suspension strut and hub carrier assembly outwards to draw the driveshaft joint from the hub flange

 

• Remove half shaft baring cover (if drivers side) (2x 13mm) under car, remove from bracket.
• Pry out driveshaft from Gearbox (Mind for Oil)
• Pull back from the Hub and completely remove it from Gearbox
• Pry out Driveshaft Oil Seal 

 

• Clean around Seal and Transmission
• Refit Drive Shaft Oil Seal - Opening of O goes towards the inside of the Gearbox - Tap a Socket on to ensure is seated flat in the Gearbox - 2”PVC pipe to tap in straight

 

• Clean, re-oil and Refit the Driveshaft into the Gearbox (Ensure it’s fully in!) Don’t rip new seal with splines in driveshaft - Mind bottom ball joint when trying to push back in - Twist driveshaft as pushing in so as the splines line up. - If anything shiny remains, keep pushing in until properly seated.
• Fit into shaft baring cover bracket and tighten 2 bolts to 6Nm then 25Nm

 

• Pull wheel hub out a little and refit driveshaft into wheel hub 
• Use pry bar to lever Ball Joint (15mm & Torx50) back in place, tighten bolt to 85Nm
• Reconnect the Track Rod (17mm)
• Refit ABS sensor (T25)
• Refit wheel hub nut (32mm) (135Nm) or (Tighten to 80Nm + 90degrees turn) ? 

 

Fill Transmission with oil:

• Ensure car is level
• Fill with 2.3L of Gearbox Oil      
• Clean & Refit Transmission Oil Fill Plug (tighten to 40Nm)

Ok, after a tricky diy mechanical shift, I have completed the driveshaft oil seal replacement. Will post all the details later on, started her up after, and she’s sounding lovely with very smooth gear changes.
 

I loosed the hubnut (13mm) then the wheel nuts (19mm), jacked up car and removed wheel. Removed the track rod (15mm) and ball joint bolt (21mm). Unclipped the ABS Sensor, undid the Torx25 ABS sensor bolt/screw but didn’t removed the ABS sensor due to it being quite stuck and I didn’t want to break it. 

Undid Driveshaft bracket (mid way) were 13mm/12mm I believe.
 

Now onto the cracker, as always seems to be the case with my motor, after all was said and done and sounding lovely with no leaks, the ABS light and “car skid” come on the dash when I first blasted her up.
 

Could this just be from where I disconnected the ABS sensor, and it lost signal? So just need to clear the error code with ForScan? 
 

any other ideas would be a great use, thanks all guys 

The Trackrod and the ball joint knuckles both needed a good crack with the lump hammer for them to release. 
 

Also neither had a t55 bit on the underside, so when putting all back together it was a bit of a pain (as the bolt would twist with the nut). For the track rod I was able to keep it in place with a tiny number Alan key bit from the top of the bolt, while I spannered it tight. The same didn’t work for the ball joint bolt, as there is little to no access, had to use grips to keep the bolt still while I tightened on so far, then it was a matter of applying pressure upwards, from underneath the bolt altogether with a pry bar, and luckily I was able to very adequately tighten both bolts. 
 

Also had to partially undo one of the t25 (I think) bit on the plastic casing on the front of the gearbox, just to get the access with the 8mm Alan socket (fill hole).
 

I drained what I could from the fill hole, but when the driveshaft was removed there was still quite a bit of oil in the gearbox. Be a very good idea to have a bucket at the ready to catch it when it comes flying out. 
 

I removed over 1L from the fill hole, and I worked out around roughly 0.8L would have been left in, after I’d completed my job and topped back up with new gear box oil with around 1.5L, accounting for the 2.3L capacity. Also a reminder to make sure the level is around 5-10mm beneath the fill hole for this gear box. I just topped up until it was dripping out and then sucked back out enough to meet the specified tolerances, I.e only allowing the tubing to sink 5-10mm beneath the hole level, until all that’s being syringed is air. 
 

As an afterthought, I probably would have drained more after the driveshaft was removed with my syringe, just to removed as much gunk as possible. 

 

Also @TomsFocus kindly let me know the ABS & ESC lights on dash should clear when I hit 7mph.
 

Hope this helps!