Ok, at the risk of being told there is loads of similar posts on here, here goes. 

I have a significant back condition meaning I can only drive auto. I have had a toyota aygo semi auto that was terrible. A Renault modus true auto, again terrible and leaked like a sieve. The boxes in those were clearly bad. This week I bought a B-Max on a 2013 plate with the powershift box. I believe it's the original dry clutch. It drives sweet as a nut and I reset the box using the gear selector until I got the "ready" message on the dash.

Since purchase (I know, stupid) I started my research and now have mega anxiety that I bought a dog. I have contacted my local Bradford Ford dealer for advice on servicing the box as a precaution and they say it's a sealed unit, hasn't presented an issue don't try to fix what ain't broken.  Am I to expect issues, should I sell on or am I stressing over nothing? I understand the car is to be driven with consideration that this is a dual clutch and cannot be driven like a true auto. If driven properly will this box be good or am I clutching at straws? As I said in two days I have done about 60 plus miles mainly town driving, up hill and down dale no shudder, no slippage, no over heating it's been so so smooth and a real pleasure to drive. There has to be positive outcomes from these boxes surely. I am guilty of only mentioning negative experiences online and not sharing the positives. 

Although the dry clutch box is notable for issues, you appear to have a good one (at the moment)
I only know the wet clutch version and that has and still is perfect (2011, 119k)
You probably won't hear from people who have never had problems but hopefully there are others on here that can give you genuine feedback on  how best to treat this box and what to watch out for.
I would expect there to be fluid change but as there is no wet clutch to generate residue, perhaps not?

3 hours ago, Digger. D said:

Am I to expect issues, should I sell on or am I stressing over nothing?

You don't mention what engine you have ?

Is it a 1.0 EcoBoost ? 😉

8 hours ago, unofix said:

You don't mention what engine you have ?

Is it a 1.0 EcoBoost ? 😉

It's a 1.6 zetec

Sometimes ignorance is bliss...  If you were happy with the gearbox before reading the horror stories then nothing has been gained from doing that.

As has been suggested, people aren't going to post on a forum to say that their car is working perfectly.  There is a higher percentage of faults with this gearbox than others.  But that doesn't mean they all break.

I don't think you could buy any 12 year old car with an automatic gearbox and expect it to be totally reliable for another decade.

The 1.6 Ti-VCT uses a dry cambelt.  That's overdue if not already changed so double check service history if unsure.

Probably the only way you'd get 10 years peace of mind is with something like a new Toyota Yaris hybrid which has 10 years warranty, but that's a very expensive option of course.

A positive here is that you have the 1.6 with a conventional dry cambelt (check if it's been replaced as Tom suggests), rather than the 1.0 Ecoboost.

16 hours ago, Digger. D said:

I understand the car is to be driven with consideration that this is a dual clutch and cannot be driven like a true auto. 

Just going back to your first post - not really sure what you mean here? By "true auto" I assume you mean the torque converter type?

Any car should be driven with consideration and from the drivers perspective I haven't found much to choose between torque converter and DCT in recent cars, which are a world away from the typical autos when I started driving in 1970!

Torque converters are getting very rare these days (even a £225k Bentley Flying Spur has an 8 speed dual clutch), though as with anything, some are better than others.

 

4 hours ago, Eric Bloodaxe said:

Just going back to your first post - not really sure what you mean here? By "true auto" I assume you mean the torque converter type?

Any car should be driven with consideration and from the drivers perspective I haven't found much to choose between torque converter and DCT in recent cars, which are a world away from the typical autos when I started driving in 1970!

Torque converters are getting very rare these days (even a £225k Bentley Flying Spur has an 8 speed dual clutch), though as with anything, some are better than others.

 

I suppose I consider a torque converter as a "true auto". I could be wrong. 

I just think if an auto with a clutch or two is treated/driven in the same manner you will soon kill it. A torque converter is much more forgiving. For example, crawling in heavy traffic, my modus would crawl all day long with no issues, I'm confident that the dct B-Max would be quick to get upset due to the slipping clutch. My aygo had a semi auto box. I first treated it like a torque converter box but soon learnt that it wasn't a good idea and adjusted my driving to a style more appropriate for an automated clutched car. I might add, I learned in an auto (torque converter) and at no point did the instructor mention differing driving styles for different boxes so I assumed all autos drove the same until a lot of research showed me my errors. 

It makes me wonder how many other auto only drivers are out there driving automated clutch cars thinking they will drive the same as a torque converter and unknowingly trashing their clutch and saying the car is rubbish when In fact it is a lack of knowledge or consideration for how the box functions more like a manual. Don't get me wrong, I am now very aware of the Ford powershift issue I just wonder if driving my car as it is supposed to be driven would prolong the life of the box or whether it is going to fail regardless. 

I recently found out (thanks) that the wet clutch Powershift has a function whereby, if you are standing still with no throttle, brakes on, both clutches are disengaged. This isn't in the car handbook so I've always put it in neutral when waiting at lights etc (and old habits... so still do it most of the time).

Full information on the dry clutch model would help you treat it with respect, like we do.

Is there any oil change required as there'll be a filter to avoid gear swarf getting into control mechatronics?

@Shearers I asked my local ford dealer about filters and oil etc. He told me that the dry clutch is a sealed unit and required no servicing. His exact words were, "If it ain't broke don't fix it, if you disturb it for no reason you could create issues. From a Scotsman to a Yorkshireman keep your wallet in your pocket, happy driving."

17 hours ago, Shearers said:

Full information on the dry clutch model would help you treat it with respect, like we do.

Yes, more info is always useful. Don't know if Carl has got a handbook for the car but, as usual, one can be downloaded here:

https://www.ford.co.uk/support/vehicle/b-max/2013/owner-manuals

section on the Powershift box below:

 

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION



PowerShift Automatic Transmission

WARNING:  Always set the parking brake fully and make sure the gearshift is latched in P (Park). Turn the ignition to the off position and remove the key whenever you leave your vehicle.    WARNING:  Do not apply the brake pedal and accelerator pedal simultaneously. Applying both pedals simultaneously for more than three seconds will limit engine rpm, which may result in difficulty maintaining speed in traffic and could lead to serious injury.

 

Note:   Some sound and shift characteristics are unique to the transmission in your vehicle. These operations are normal and do not affect the durability of the transmission.

Note:   Do not use the accelerator to hold your vehicle at a standstill while waiting on a hill. This will overheat the transmission.

Some sound and shift characteristics are unique to the PowerShift transmission in your vehicle and will be felt as the transmission operates. These operations are normal and do not affect the durability of the transmission. You may notice the following characteristics of this technology:

• Although the gears shift automatically, the shifting feel and sound experienced from the Powershift transmission is similar to those of a manual transmission, which is normal.
• The Powershift transmission continuously makes electronic adjustments to optimize shift quality. During the initial break-in period, you may feel slight vibrations when accelerating your vehicle from low speeds.

Selector Lever Positions

PPark RReverse NNeutral DDrive SSport mode and manual shifting +Manual shift up -Manual shift down

WARNING:  Apply the brakes before moving the transmission selector lever and keep them applied until you are ready to move off.

 

Press the button on the transmission selector lever to change to each position.

The transmission selector lever position will be shown in the information display.

P (Park)

WARNING:  Move the transmission selector lever to park only when your vehicle is stationary.    WARNING:  Apply the parking brake and move the transmission selector lever to park before leaving your vehicle. Make sure that the transmission selector lever is latched in position.

 

Note:   An audible warning will sound if you open the driver's door and you have not moved the transmission selector lever to park.

In this position, power is not transmitted to the drive wheels and the transmission is locked. You can start the engine with the transmission selector lever in this position.

R (Reverse)

WARNING:  Move the transmission selector lever to reverse only when your vehicle is stationary and the engine is at idle speed.    WARNING:  Always come to a complete stop before shifting the transmission selector lever out of reverse.

 

Move the transmission selector lever to reverse to allow your vehicle to move backward.

N (Neutral)

In this position, power is not transmitted to the drive wheels but the transmission is not locked. You can start the engine with the transmission selector lever in this position.

D (Drive)

Note:   A shift will occur only when your vehicle speed and the engine speed are appropriate.

Note:   You may temporarily override the current gear selected using the + and - buttons.

Select drive to shift automatically through the forward gears.

The transmission will select the appropriate gear for optimum performance based on ambient temperature, road gradient, vehicle load and your input.

Sport Mode and Manual Shifting

Sport Mode

Note:   In sport mode the transmission operates as normal but gears are selected more quickly and at higher engine speeds.

Note:   In sport mode S will be shown in the information display.

Switch on sport mode by moving the transmission selector lever to position S. Sport mode will remain on until either you shift manually up or down the gears using + and - or move the transmission selector lever to position D.

Manual Shifting

WARNING:  Do not hold the buttons permanently in - or +.    WARNING:  The transmission will automatically downshift when the engine speed is too low.

 

Press the - button to shift down and press the + button to shift up.

Gears may be skipped by pressing the buttons repeatedly at short intervals.

Manual mode also provides a kickdown function. See Kickdown.

Hints on Driving With an Automatic Transmission

WARNING:  Do not idle the engine for long periods of time in drive with the brakes applied.

 

Moving Off

1. Release the parking brake.

1. Release the brake pedal and press the accelerator pedal.

Stopping

1. Release the accelerator pedal and press the brake pedal.

1. Apply the parking brake.

1. Move the transmission selector lever to N or P.

Kickdown

Press the accelerator pedal fully with the transmission selector lever in the drive position to select the next lowest gear for optimum performance. Release the accelerator pedal when you no longer require kickdown.

If Your Vehicle Gets Stuck In Mud or Snow

Note:   Do not rock your vehicle if the engine is not at normal operating temperature or damage to the transmission may occur.

Note:   Do not rock your vehicle for more than a minute or damage to the transmission and tires may occur, or the engine may overheat.

If your vehicle gets stuck in mud or snow, it may be rocked out by shifting between forward and reverse gears, stopping between shifts in a steady pattern. Press lightly on the accelerator in each gear.

Emergency Park Position Release Lever

WARNING:  Do not drive your vehicle until you verify that the brake lamps are working.    WARNING:  If the parking brake is fully released, but the brake warning lamp remains illuminated, the brakes may not be working correctly. See an authorized dealer.

 

Use the lever to move the transmission selector lever from the park position in the event of an electrical malfunction or if your vehicle battery has no charge.

1. Apply the parking brake and switch the ignition off before performing this procedure.

1. Remove the retaining screw.

1. Remove the center console side panel.

Note:   The lever is pink.

1. Apply the brake pedal. Using a suitable tool rotate the lever forward while pulling the transmission selector lever out of the park position and into the neutral position.

Note:   See an authorized dealer as soon as possible if this procedure is used.

B-MAX Own