I've ordered a compression testing kit, which I will pick up tomorrow morning. It was only £20.

I assume a compression test will tell me if the rings or bore are on the way out. If it is the rings, I'll use the focus to get around the country and find a nice GTI or ST.

With everything I've learnt trying to fix this rattle and all the tools I've bought, the next car is getting a full deep inspection. If the seller isn't happy for me to do a compression test, scan for faults, and jack the car up to look for rust, I'm not buying it. 

The past two cars I've bought have turned out to be lemons. Hopefully, the compression test tomorrow will be positive. 

This isn't a constant rattle; it only rattles above 2500 rpm, and it's only the initial squeeze of the throttle. Even then, it's not all the time. Open the throttle up past that initial squeeze, and it's fine. Come off the throttle and coast at high rpm, and it's fine. The only time the rattle stays is when cruising at a motorway speed which requires feathering the throttle in that initial "squeeze zone. There is a noticeable flat spot in the 2nd above 2500 rpm, though.

The serpentine belt is whining away, too. I'm assuming the garage that initially said it was pinking has checked this. It wouldn't surprise me if, after all this, it's the water pump pulley, but all these other issues with the car gave a false positive for pinking. 

to describe the utterly catastrophic and destructive forces on your enigine from the uncontroled explosion of the fuel air mix - AKA knock, as a rattle and then to drive for a year with it - means there isn't likely to be much left of the cyl head, pistons, rings, or cyl bores

the car when opearting normally, is expected to detect knock inside 1/4 miliscond and take immediate action to stop it - the idea is to try and ensure its never really present as it can wreck any engine inside seconds 

I'm pretty sure I've got this issue sorted.

I finally got around to installing Forscan on an old laptop. I hooked it up to the focus and cleared the error codes as the new EGR valve was installed. I drove it for a couple of days and then checked for errors again, and there were none.

I ran the PCM "Key On Engine Running On Demand Self Test" and the "Key On Engine Off On Demand Self Test." It returned two errors.

1. P1549 - Intake Manifold Communication Control Circuit (Bank 1) - IMRC output failed.

I did some research, which led me to a YouTube video that explained how to test vacuum solenoids with a multimeter. The solenoid controlling the swirl flaps was working and healthy, so from my research, this means that the issue is a broken/loose rod, which means the mechanism doesn't move. The feedback switch fails only in the forced self-test, which gives P1549.

I also tested the vacuum solenoid controlling the EGR valve. This solenoid had failed and needed replacing. So it turned out, not only had the EGR valve failed, which was also causing the instrument cluster and pedal position sensor errors due to a drop in the 5v circuit, but the new EGR valve wasn't working properly because of this failed solenoid. 

I took the inlet manifold off, and the swirl flaps are rattling away in there. So it looks like, despite overfueling, it was never actually pinking, and the swirl flaps are causing the rattling. The PCV hose has also seen better days. 

The second error from the test was P170A—Clutch Switch Out Of Self Test Range. This error explains why the revs jump up when I change gears. I've got a new clutch switch. 

I've got a new inlet manifold and will change the thermostat while I'm in there. I've also got a new water pump and belt tensioner. 

Is it best to drain the coolant completely before taking the thermostat out, or is that overkill?

 

 

 

 

10 hours ago, ChaoticWires said:

Is it best to drain the coolant completely before taking the thermostat out, or is that overkill?

Original coolant is only designed for 10 years use.  Generally it would be replaced with the waterpump when the cambelt is done at 10 years old.  But as these have a chain, it won't have been done unless there was a fault that needed repair.

If you do replace the coolant with the thermostat, then it is worthwhile to replace the waterpump at the same time.  Then you should get another 10 years out of the new coolant.

On 6/26/2025 at 8:38 AM, TomsFocus said:

Original coolant is only designed for 10 years use.  Generally it would be replaced with the waterpump when the cambelt is done at 10 years old.  But as these have a chain, it won't have been done unless there was a fault that needed repair.

If you do replace the coolant with the thermostat, then it is worthwhile to replace the waterpump at the same time.  Then you should get another 10 years out of the new coolant.

I've hit a bump in the road and need some emergency advice 😂

The pipe on the top of the inlet manifold that goes to the brake servo. From what I've read online, it's supposed to come off when pulled directly up. I've pulled with all my strength, and this pipe isn't coming off. I've spent three hours pulling on it, and I've hit a wall. I've attached a photo of the pipe in question.

I've also tried to remove the injector fuel rail, but the injectors are stuck. The injectors have come out a little bit, enough for me to get the manifold out, but they're not budging any further, no matter how hard I pull.

So, how do I get this brake servo pipe off the manifold, and what can I do to get the injectors fully out and fully back in?

For the injectors, you can remove the top clips so that each injector will be free to wiggle out individually.  The injector seals will probably need replacing when you refit, both top & bottom.  Although I would have another go at it this morning, you might find the angle was just slightly wrong yesterday.

Not sure about that pipe.  It's probably just very stiff.  Plastic expands a lot at this time of year.  You could try some penetrating spray but I don't think it'll make much difference, not sure there's even enough gap to get it in.  If you can chill the pipe somehow (thinking something like freeze spray used for chocolate sculpture) that might help.  Or do the opposite and try to heat the manifold around the pipe very carefully to try and make that expand more than the pipe.  You can also try twisting pipes like this to break the seal before pulling.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

For the injectors, you can remove the top clips so that each injector will be free to wiggle out individually.  The injector seals will probably need replacing when you refit, both top & bottom.  Although I would have another go at it this morning, you might find the angle was just slightly wrong yesterday.

Not sure about that pipe.  It's probably just very stiff.  Plastic expands a lot at this time of year.  You could try some penetrating spray but I don't think it'll make much difference, not sure there's even enough gap to get it in.  If you can chill the pipe somehow (thinking something like freeze spray used for chocolate sculpture) that might help.  Or do the opposite and try to heat the manifold around the pipe very carefully to try and make that expand more than the pipe.  You can also try twisting pipes like this to break the seal before pulling.

I managed to get that plastic pipe off. None of what I was reading online elaborated on the need to push the thin collar down with a screw driver while pulling. Once I did that, it came off after a few minutes of pulling.

I've seen WD40 mentioned a few times to get the injector seals out, is that safe?

Also, I've noticed the alternator is directly below the thermostat. I'm a bit concerned that it's gonna get covered in coolant when I pull the thermostat even though it's been drained. Does it need to be removed, or is just putting a bag over it good enough?

Thanks again, you've been a lifesaver on this mate

49 minutes ago, ChaoticWires said:

I managed to get that plastic pipe off. None of what I was reading online elaborated on the need to push the thin collar down with a screw driver while pulling. Once I did that, it came off after a few minutes of pulling.

I've seen WD40 mentioned a few times to get the injector seals out, is that safe?

Also, I've noticed the alternator is directly below the thermostat. I'm a bit concerned that it's gonna get covered in coolant when I pull the thermostat even though it's been drained. Does it need to be removed, or is just putting a bag over it good enough?

Thanks again, you've been a lifesaver on this mate

Yes, WD40 is safe on injector seals, or 3in1, engine oil, even diesel all work as a release lubricant.  

Bag on the alternator is fine.  They are designed to cope with a bit of damp, just not a deluge.

5 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, WD40 is safe on injector seals, or 3in1, engine oil, even diesel all work as a release lubricant.  

Bag on the alternator is fine.  They are designed to cope with a bit of damp, just not a deluge.

The WD40 worked a treat. I left it a couple of minutes, and the injectors came out with a little wiggle. It appears that the seals, part number 4334875, are the same on both the top and bottom of the injectors. Can only find it on ebay and probably won't get delivered until the end of next week. Would you say that replacing the injector seals is definitely necessary?

I removed the thermostat without much drama, but the Ford one appears to be of significantly better quality than the Denso one I ordered. So much so, I'm thinking about reordering a genuine thermostat if I've got to wait a week for injector seals.

I did make a schoolboy error on one of the hose clamps. I squeezed it too much, and it seems to be locked open. Am I correct in assuming that there's no way to undo it, and a new hose clamp is needed? I've attached a photo.

I got the tensioner/idler pulley off, and it's completely worn out. The bearings are entirely shot and rattling away. I put a new Gates pulley on, but there still seems to be a little bit of play. Is this normal, or should I get a whole new unit?

As for the water pump, it also appears to have some play, which produces a knocking or rattling noise. I couldn't get the bolts off the pulley, but I thought I'd best ask if the water pump can be removed without removing the engine mount and jacking the engine up. Upon inspection, I'm unsure if the water pump will fit through the gap between the engine bay and the engine. I've attached a photo of how I was going to remove it. 

All in all, the issues are the swirl flaps rattling, the tensioner/idler pulley rattling, and the water pump pulley rattling.

For anyone interested, here's a video of the swirl flaps rattling in the manifold 

Here's a video of the water pump pulley play/rattle 

Here's a video of the shot tensioner/idler pulley 

 

 

I would expect the seals to need replacement, but I can't say without seeing them.

They should be plump and round.  If they're flat around the outside edge, they won't seal properly.

That hose clamp just needs to be squeezed again, then press in that little tab before releasing the clamp.

Not sure about the waterpump, it might just fit if you can remove the pulley cover first.  Otherwise yes just unbolt one side of the mount and jack it up slightly.

Haven't watched the videos as on mobile, will try to watch on laptop tomorrow.

On 6/28/2025 at 7:52 PM, TomsFocus said:

I would expect the seals to need replacement, but I can't say without seeing them.

They should be plump and round.  If they're flat around the outside edge, they won't seal properly.

That hose clamp just needs to be squeezed again, then press in that little tab before releasing the clamp.

Not sure about the waterpump, it might just fit if you can remove the pulley cover first.  Otherwise yes just unbolt one side of the mount and jack it up slightly.

Haven't watched the videos as on mobile, will try to watch on laptop tomorrow.

I took some measurements with some vernier callipers. With the pulley removed, I would need to jack up the engine 8cm/3.15 inches. That seems a lot to me, but it's less than what I would have to lower the engine by, and there's not a chance of the water pump fitting through that gap without moving the engine.

Is it safe to jack up that side of the engine nearly 3.5 inches?

 

7 hours ago, ChaoticWires said:

Is it safe to jack up that side of the engine nearly 3.5 inches?

Yes that's fine.  Everything attached to the engine is flexible to some extent.  Just keep an eye on pipes and wires to make sure nothing gets pinched.  Also use a piece of wood to spread the load across the sump ideally.

I feel like the universe is testing me with this car. Had time to try to fit the water pump today and then realised there's a massive metal pipe right above the engine mount. I couldn't find any information in the Haynes manual or on YouTube videos regarding it.

I realise I'm bombarding you with questions, but this pipe is giving me "don't remove this in an underground car park" energy.

What is the pipe above the engine mount in the photos I've attached?

 

 

 

Fairly sure that is an air conditioning pipe.  Looks like the AC accumulator at the bottom of the picture.  (Power steering pump is also in the same area and uses similar high pressure hoses).  Either way, don't disconnect or break that one.  Use a UJ on a socket extension if it's directly above the bolt heads.

I can remove the bolts, but I don't think I'll be able to lift out the mount itself. The pipe is solid and directly above the mount with very little clearance. 

Before I bought this car, someone on Reddit said, "Get the 1.8 because it's much easier to work on due to the layout". This water pump is a real ballache. 

I'm gonna have a gentle wiggle of that pipe, but I'm pretty sure that mount isn't coming out, and I'm not dismantling the aircon and power steering in an underground car park. I'll pay a garage to do that. 

9 minutes ago, ChaoticWires said:

I can remove the bolts, but I don't think I'll be able to lift out the mount itself. The pipe is solid and directly above the mount with very little clearance. 

Before I bought this car, someone on Reddit said, "Get the 1.8 because it's much easier to work on due to the layout". This water pump is a real ballache. 

I'm gonna have a gentle wiggle of that pipe, but I'm pretty sure that mount isn't coming out, and I'm not dismantling the aircon and power steering in an underground car park. I'll pay a garage to do that. 

There's no way that pipe needs removed to get the mount out.  If you're removing the whole thing, just tip backwards towards the wing.

Not sure which engine Reddit were comparing it with, 1.6 TDCI is much easier to work on than 1.8/2.0 Duratec in Mk2.  1.6 petrol has some awkward access issue though.

16 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

There's no way that pipe needs removed to get the mount out.  If you're removing the whole thing, just tip backwards towards the wing.

Not sure which engine Reddit were comparing it with, 1.6 TDCI is much easier to work on than 1.8/2.0 Duratec in Mk2.  1.6 petrol has some awkward access issue though.

I'm gonna give it another shot tonight or tomorrow night. I just need to get this water pump done, and then I'm home free. The awkward thing about this is doing it in an underground parking bay surrounded by neighbours in their bays. Then I realise I left something in my flat and I have to go up 22 floors to get it 😂

19 minutes ago, ChaoticWires said:

I'm gonna give it another shot tonight or tomorrow night. I just need to get this water pump done, and then I'm home free. The awkward thing about this is doing it in an underground parking bay surrounded by neighbours in their bays. Then I realise I left something in my flat and I have to go up 22 floors to get it 😂

Funnily enough I've been moaning about the same this week...although in my case it's only 2 floors.    (Who designs flatpack that needs additional tools anyway!)

I got it done. I don't know why I thought it would be such an issue. Out of everything, it was the easiest thing I've done working on the car. I had to give the water pump a couple of whacks with a hammer and a pry bar, but other than that, no issues. I just need to figure out how to remove the retaining clips from the injectors so I can pull them off the fuel rail and replace the O-rings.

I have found another offending rattle. I cut the AC compressor belt to replace both drive belts. Doing so revealed that the AC compressor pulley is completely goosed. Essentially, every pulley being run by the belts has been rattling away.

Now I'm on the hunt for an elusive AC pulley.

Might be better off buying a used compressor and taking the pulley from that.

They're not cheap new... FORD FOCUS MK2 A/C Compressor Clutch Assy 1686883 NEW GENUINE | eBay UK

I'm gonna take a punt on this for £40 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283966543445

 

I've got the car running. All is good.

When I started removing the injectors from the fuel rail, an alarming amount of petrol began to flow out. To the point that I only removed two injectors, put them straight back in, and changed just the bottom O-rings.

I removed the fuel pump fuse and cracked it over until it wouldn't start when I started working on the car. It wasn't pressurised. I'm assuming that was just the fuel that was left in the rail?

I'm sending the injectors off to be ultrasonically cleaned and serviced in a couple of weeks. Is there a way to remove the fuel rail so I can safely drain the fuel before removing the injectors next time?

Not sure why there'd be so much petrol left in the rail if you cranked it over after removing the pump fuse.  Possibly some sort of syphon effect going on there.  You could remove the pipe from rail and place it into a container to drain, or plug the end with something.  A little fluid goes a long way so it might not have been as much as it looked.

If you are leaving the fuel system 'open' for a while, it's probably best to disconnect the battery just so there's no chance of creating any accidental sparks until everything is back in place again.  (You will need the radio code after reconnecting the battery).

Yeah, I cranked it over until it wouldn't start. When I removed the first injector, a small dribble was present. When I removed the second injector, it started gushing out. I could hear it sloshing about inside the rail. I wasn't expecting anything so it was quite the surprise, especially when I got splashed in the face with petrol. If someone walked by smoking a cigarette, it would have been game over.

I've ordered the tool to disconnect the fuel line and some silicone hose plugs. So for now, Operation New Focus is complete. 

Thanks for all your help and advice. You've been a lifesaver!

 

 

Dead MAP sensor - signal injector 2 to flat out