In my 2016 Ford Focus my park pilot has stopped working.  The dash reports it needs servicing.  The AC blows but no cold air, master windows console (drivers door) doesn't work though the windows operate fine from the passenger controls, the electric mirrors don't operate, outside air temperature does not appear, luggage compartment lights out.  I've checked all fuses I think ... nothing blown.  And the obd2 reports no faults.  Anyone got any ideas what I can do next ? ... apart from go to the garage 🙂🙂

How old is the battery? Have you got a multimeter to measure the battery voltage at the terminals after the car has been standing overnight?

Ah never thought about the battery ... it's reading 12.06v at rest.  A bit low according to Haynes ...

3 hours ago, Richard Grice said:

it's reading 12.06v at rest.  A bit low according to Haynes ...

Very low! (see below):

Ah never thought about the battery ... it's reading 12.06v at rest.  A bit low according to Haynes ...

Thanks very much for all your help ... it would be nice if the console warning was more concise i.e. low battery and it would have saved me a lot of time ... 🙂🙂🙂

39 minutes ago, Richard Grice said:

 ... it would be nice if the console warning was more concise i.e. low battery and it would have saved me a lot of time ...

MicroSoft started the trend by throwing up a Blue Screen of Death on a computer screen accompanied by a 26 digit illegible fault code 🤣

It is a perfectly legible fault code. It is however completely incomprehensible even to the team of engineers who wrote the code.

I would start with putting the battery on a smart charger for at least 12 hours. This is a low cost potential solution to the problem. If that makes the problem go away then it might only need charging every couple of months or it might need a new battery. Charge it and see where that gets you.

Yes, this is a point that cannot be stressed firmly enough. Twenty years ago, you needed a Haynes manual to troubleshoot your car. It was largely mechanical and the electrical systems tended to be separate and not grouped into a single multi purpose module. Move on ten years and the OBDII reader becomes a part of the required toolkit.

(As an aside, there are a depressingly large group of people, some seen here, that think that everything that goes wrong with a modern car is supposed to be fixed by plugging the scanner in and asking it to clear the fault. They are perplexed when it doesn't work and then refse to take it to a garage because if they couldn't fix it by plugging in the magic black box, then the garage will be ripping them off by sorting the problem out properly.)

Today, your car stays switched on for a long time, maybe half an hour after switch off, while it monitors, updates and recalibrates everything that happened to it since you last pressed the  on button. The computer systems and "always on" functions drain the battery constantly and the battery itself is computer monitored to ensure that the energy drawn is replaced. Once it is, the charging system( the alternator in this case,) is disconnected until it is needed again, in order to save energy and to save the battery from overcharging. (A neighbour's stopstart system failed after twelve years, due to the original battery becoming degraded but it still started first turn in the depths of winter so these charging systems work. You wouldn't have had that performance from the battery of a 1980s Datsun or Toyota, both renowned for reliability.)

Unfortunately, this degree of complexity means that today's car needs a periodical charge and the old charger that Dad used on the family Cortina WON'T CUT IT!  You need to buy a smart charger. Something suitable often comes up on offer in Lidl or Aldi for about £25 or you might consider a Ctek which cost about £60, last time I looked. Both will do a good job but it is important to understand the correct charging procedure, which varied between different cars these days. Just connecting the charger across the battery terminals seems obvious, so most people do but the negative terminal is not the earth of the car itself because the cable connecting the car to the battery terminal is part of this computer monitoring system and so the owner's handbook which, frustratingly, has gone the way of the spare wheel, must be downloaded and read in order to do it right.  Once you have taken the trouble to do that, it should be simple. However it may take a few start and stop cycles to begin working as it should and you may need to leave the car locked overnight following a charge for the new battery level to take effect. You will see stuff on YouTube telling you how to reset the battery monitoring system. This is only necessary when fitting a new battery and is likely to do more harm than good if applied willy-nilly.