I replaced all four brake rotors and pads, and now the brake pedal is making a clicking noise when pushed 3/4 of the way down. I own a focus mk2 2.0l titanium 2010.

After I completed the 3rd rotor and pads, I decided to pump the brake pedal as I noticed brake fluid seeping out of the reservoir, there was no clicking at this stage... I left the cap on when pushing the pistons back in, I was told this doesn't matter. I then proceeded with the 4th brake. However, after completing the 4th I applied and released the handbrake before pumping the brake pedal for the 4th brake/wheel. I'm wondering if this is what's caused the clicking, if I've damaged the master cylinder.

Now the brake pedal clicks after 3/4 of the push down, when the car is on and off. The brake pedal is a tad spongey but this shouldn't cause the clicking, it's due a fluid change. Car doesn't stop immediately when braking at slow speed but I understand that can be from new rotors/pads.

Could this be because I mistakenly applied the park brake before pumping the caliper piston for the 4th? Could this have damaged the master cylinder? The clicking is coming from the pedal, not the calipers.

Has this happened to anyone?

 

2 hours ago, Ollie1 said:

I replaced all four brake rotors and pads, and now the brake pedal is making a clicking noise when pushed 3/4 of the way down. I own a focus mk2 2.0l titanium 2010.

After I completed the 3rd rotor and pads, I decided to pump the brake pedal as I noticed brake fluid seeping out of the reservoir, there was no clicking at this stage... I left the cap on when pushing the pistons back in, I was told this doesn't matter. I then proceeded with the 4th brake. However, after completing the 4th I applied and released the handbrake before pumping the brake pedal for the 4th brake/wheel. I'm wondering if this is what's caused the clicking, if I've damaged the master cylinder.

Now the brake pedal clicks after 3/4 of the push down, when the car is on and off. The brake pedal is a tad spongey but this shouldn't cause the clicking, it's due a fluid change. Car doesn't stop immediately when braking at slow speed but I understand that can be from new rotors/pads.

Could this be because I mistakenly applied the park brake before pumping the caliper piston for the 4th? Could this have damaged the master cylinder? The clicking is coming from the pedal, not the calipers.

Has this happened to anyone?

 

That is air in your system, the cap should be released to allow air to be pushed out, it's possible that it could be just air that has passed through to the pipes or at worst you have damaged the master cylinder seals. Bleeding them n refilling so it don't run low would give you an indication as to if the seals are damaged or not.

2 hours ago, Ollie1 said:

I replaced all four brake rotors and pads, and now the brake pedal is making a clicking noise when pushed 3/4 of the way down. I own a focus mk2 2.0l titanium 2010.

Is this a RHD, UK specification Focus Mk2 ? 🤔

11 hours ago, unofix said:

Is this a RHD, UK specification Focus Mk2 ? 🤔

Yes 🙂

11 hours ago, doggsbody said:

That is air in your system, the cap should be released to allow air to be pushed out, it's possible that it could be just air that has passed through to the pipes or at worst you have damaged the master cylinder seals. Bleeding them n refilling so it don't run low would give you an indication as to if the seals are damaged or not.

The fluid is dark so it is due a change. and the pedal does now seem spongey when the engine is off. Wasn't like that before so I'm not sure how air got in. Or perhaps the seals are damaged, as you mentioned, it won't properly keep the fluid in the circuit when depressed, it bypasses back into the intake.

I'll bleed the brakes, if that doesn't rectify the fault then I'll change the master cylinder. thank you

11 minutes ago, Ollie1 said:

The fluid is dark so it is due a change. and the pedal does now seem spongey when the engine is off. Wasn't like that before so I'm not sure how air got in. Or perhaps the seals are damaged, as you mentioned, it won't properly keep the fluid in the circuit when depressed, it bypasses back into the intake.

I'll bleed the brakes, if that doesn't rectify the fault then I'll change the master cylinder. thank you

It could be that as it's pushed the fluid back towards the bottle it's forced the air to swap with the fluid. I know it sounds weird but when you've done them a few times it's not as surprising 😂.. make sure to start with rear passer side then / rear driver's / front passenger then driver's. If you don't have a bleed kit you can diy 1 that works well which l use ( 1 bottle of soda any as long as its got a plastic cap, fish tank air pipe, and a box for the bottle to stand in. Put a hole in the cap big enough for the pipe just to fit the warm the other end n push fit to the bleed nipple. Finally put a bit of fluid in the bottle make sure the pipe goes to the bottom that way it can't suck air in and a 1 man break bleeding kit just cost you about £3 and can be reused multiple times without breaking 😎👍

21 minutes ago, Ollie1 said:

The fluid is dark so it is due a change. and the pedal does now seem spongey when the engine is off. Wasn't like that before so I'm not sure how air got in. Or perhaps the seals are damaged, as you mentioned, it won't properly keep the fluid in the circuit when depressed, it bypasses back into the intake.

I'll bleed the brakes, if that doesn't rectify the fault then I'll change the master cylinder. thank you

Your more than welcome too 👍

I used a one-man bleed kit recently after replacing rear calipers but the brakes were very spongy.

Had to go old school with someone pumping the pedal to get the system bled properly. 

36 minutes ago, troy45 said:

I used a one-man bleed kit recently after replacing rear calipers but the brakes were very spongy.

Had to go old school with someone pumping the pedal to get the system bled properly. 

Yeah that's how what l made works, stops air from going back up the tube. Soon as you see there's no air going down the pipe after a few pumps each time, the bleed nipple can be tightened up before it's removed so air don't go in before hand 😎👍