Good morning everyone

2010 Focus 1.6TDCI 110BHP

I have some major issues at present with my engine, all started when I had to stick a 90bhp turbo on my 110bhp and also needing to pressure wash the engine bay due to an oil leak. I kept away from passenger side near ECU, washed purely on top, exhaust, back of engine, top of gearbox, which have discovered its coming from the seals around intake manifold. I have fitted a brand new gt1544v turbo now.

The issues I'm having are as follows.

random codes - listed below

P1103 - MAF sensor in range but high (cone filter fitted)

P0113 - Intake air temp high input.

P0299 - low boost, its either all boost or nothing, 1st gear has no boost, 2nd and up will either be full or no boost when it feels like it.

P0251 - Injection pump fuel metering control A, cam/rotor/injector - circuit malfunction.

 

The MAF code I'm not worried about as its been there since fitted over a year ago and makes no difference to running or performance. Turbo was only changed due to wear and lots of play in shaft. (original turbo 166K miles) i have replaced the boost control solenoid/valve at bottom of the engine. MAP sensor and tried a different good MAF. Issue is still there after this, I have some DPF cleaner arriving to eliminate this as well. Just to note there was no issues with boost before the 90bhp turbo had been fitted. Was only fitted as an emergency situation to keep the car going until new turbo arrived so could still make it to work.

 

After rechecking pipes for control valve was fitted correctly, checking the air temp sensor beside the map sensor and removing the top of the intercooler hose on throttle body to check pipe was split or just slightly dinted  I now have the P0251 code and car will not start and now has a flattened battery.

 

I am at a complete loss now, I've rechecked every connector and pipe I've been near and everything looks good and ok.

 

Appreciate you reading this and any ides or help would be grateful 

Edited December 19, 2025Dec 19 by s31thy

Theoretically the 90hp turbo shouldn't make a difference, the intake temp sensor code will be due to the cone filter as u have lost the cold air intake. In terms of the boost issues, try to get the car to relearn initial calibration. The injection pump code will most likely be the pump wearing out.

1 hour ago, Neb_engineer said:

Theoretically the 90hp turbo shouldn't make a difference, 

The 90ps turbo is wastegate.  The 110ps turbo is VNT.  I can't see how the 90 would work even for short term.  The actuator movement will be completely wrong. 

21 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

The 90ps turbo is wastegate.  The 110ps turbo is VNT.  I can't see how the 90 would work even for short term.  The actuator movement will be completely wrong. 

It didn't run great at all, low power but enough to keep the car useable.

Injection pump code has now gone, charged battery and car started 1st turn of the key. Turned off and sat for 30mins and now not starting, turns over like it wants to start and can hear it attempt it but doesn't or it just turns over for a few seconds then you can hear the starter motor, same noise it makes when you turn key when engine running. I am at a complete loss ATM 

 

What's the relearn process on these, tried disconnecting battery for 1hr and made no difference (before the no start issues) 

 

Need the car for Christmas and I'm struggling with this

1 hour ago, s31thy said:

It didn't run great at all, low power but enough to keep the car useable.

Injection pump code has now gone, charged battery and car started 1st turn of the key. Turned off and sat for 30mins and now not starting, turns over like it wants to start and can hear it attempt it but doesn't or it just turns over for a few seconds then you can hear the starter motor, same noise it makes when you turn key when engine running. I am at a complete loss ATM 

 

What's the relearn process on these, tried disconnecting battery for 1hr and made no difference (before the no start issues) 

 

Need the car for Christmas and I'm struggling with this

Sounds like more than one fault still.

The starter should only ever grind if the engine is running when you turn the key.  If it's grinding with the engine stationary then either the battery charge is dropping too low or the starter motor is failing.

I'd try a jump pack to boost the battery next.  If the jump pack works, you probably need a new battery.  If it doesn't, you probably need a new starter.

There isn't a proper reset for these that I'm aware off.  You can try disconnecting the battery and touching the two loose cables together.  That clears some modules, but I don't think it'll clear the PCM in all honesty.  Best option is to use Forscan to do a PCM reset, though probably too late to get an adapter delivered now.  After using the wrong turbo I would also reset the learned values for MAF and MAP, and boost solenoid if available on that model through Forscan.

its driving me insane, seems to be 1 thing after another,

I dont have access to a jump pack, sometimes it just cranks and cranks and sounds like its going start for a second then nothing.

I have a car scanner I use for codes etc. Can this been done on forscan lite?

 

if got the air filter off ATM as i was checking voltage between earth of battery and earth points, ill try and get a video to explain it better of the noise and what its doing once kids asleep 

I’ve had to do the video as a link. 
 

https://jumpshare.com/s/5szo1KSc9qfxtK1KSlso#

Update just been out to jump start it, turned key to show mate what it was doing and it started, left running for 10mins turned car off and wouldn't start again, same issue, connected his car to jump it, after a few tries it started again. turned off and same issue again

21 hours ago, s31thy said:

Can this been done on forscan lite?

There is only one difference between the mobile phone versions and the Laptop version of FORScan.

The mobile phone version can not make programming changes.

4 hours ago, s31thy said:

I’ve had to do the video as a link. 
 

https://jumpshare.com/s/5szo1KSc9qfxtK1KSlso#

That sounds awful.  I think that is the starter failing but still not 100% from that video. 

4 hours ago, unofix said:

There is only one difference between the mobile phone versions and the Laptop version of FORScan.

The mobile phone version can not make programming changes.

Thankyou. 

1 hour ago, TomsFocus said:

That sounds awful.  I think that is the starter failing but still not 100% from that video. 

When it did start when being jumped it was very spluttery to get going. Started doesn’t sound like it’s struggling to turn it over. It does also just stop dead, then carry’s on trying to fire even tho key hasn’t moved 

 

gonna try and get it into a garage I think. This will be the first car that’s beat me. 

Have the codes been read when the spluttering or difficult starting  faults are on and have you looked at live data for any clues?