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Brake pipes

Featured Replies

Hi all,

Thinking of changing my front brake pipes on my 14 plate Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost. I'm toying with the idea of making my own pipes but would like some advice on what would be the best type of pipe to use?.



Why do they need changing, we are at 15 years with not even an advisory?
If you do decide to continue, there is really only one option (that I know of) - the Copper alloy pipes.
They are easy to work with, and will never corrode.
You'll obviously need the correct fittings from your supplier and a tool to flare the ends.
I only had the tool in the red case, no bender etc but did a perfectly fine job:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/406683258699
You'll need to ensure the fittings are correct.

  • Author

Thanks for that. Got an advisory on my last MOT. I haven't actually seen the apparent corrosion due to the weather. I think it'll be a nightmare of a job. In regards to the pipes and copper alloy, do you mean copper/nickel pipe?.

Are you sure the MOT advisory is for the hard metal pipes at the front? Those ones aren't a common area for rust as they're getting washed off every time you drive through puddles. It's usually the rear ones tucked up around the fuel tank that get caked in salty mud and rust through. A front advisory is potentially for the rubber pipes starting to crack up instead.

I have made brake pipes for a few cars. (Including an 8 year old Fiesta which failed MOT for rusty rear pipes!). Always used copper pipe with generic unions from Halfords or wherever. Steel pipes are too hard to form and flare easily at home.

  • Author

I was thinking along those lines myself. It's probably the actually hoses but I want the brake pipe kit as a back up.

  • Author

Advisories

Screenshot_20260210_111856_Samsung Internet.jpg

1 hour ago, Shaffick said:

Advisories

Screenshot_20260210_111856_Samsung Internet.jpg

That is the hard pipes. Very strange. I'd definitely give the rears a good check if the fronts are rusty.

What does that advisory actually mean?
It could be read as it is a) corroded, b) covered in grease or c) covered in other material.?
Either ask tester for clarification or look yourself.
It is "only" advisory although depending on inspection it may have loads of life left (we've had rear suspension bushing advisory for 7 years and it is still fine)
Some testers are mad keen on brake pipes although it is an area I'd look into very seriously.
Good suggestions (as usual) from @TomsFocus

  • Author

I'll check myself once the weather gets better. Thanks. Have you changed the front pipes before?

4 minutes ago, Shaffick said:

Have you changed the front pipes before?

Not on anything modern. I did have to do a few on old Peugeots back in my Peugeot days. But that was always due to the unions seizing and then twisting the hard pipe when trying to remove cracked flexible hoses from them. As the majority of the hard pipe was ok I just added short link sections in the wheel arches instead of the full pipe.

The front pipes are usually one piece from the ABS pump all the way to the wheel arch, so can be hidden under parts like the battery tray or other pipework, and are awkward to get out and back in with multiple bends in each one.

  • Author
3 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Not on anything modern. I did have to do a few on old Peugeots back in my Peugeot days. But that was always due to the unions seizing and then twisting the hard pipe when trying to remove cracked flexible hoses from them. As the majority of the hard pipe was ok I just added short link sections in the wheel arches instead of the full pipe.

The front pipes are usually one piece from the ABS pump all the way to the wheel arch, so can be hidden under parts like the battery tray or other pipework, and are awkward to get out and back in with multiple bends in each one.

Ok. Thanks again

Ditto with Tom, nothing in the last 20 years BUT IMHO, you can simply (possible joke) cut the pipe back to an easy to access undamaged section and replace that part of the pipe only i.e make a joint inside the engine bay and only replace the section to the flexible?

  • Author
1 hour ago, Shearers said:

Ditto with Tom, nothing in the last 20 years BUT IMHO, you can simply (possible joke) cut the pipe back to an easy to access undamaged section and replace that part of the pipe only i.e make a joint inside the engine bay and only replace the section to the flexible?

Great advice. Thanks.

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