Ford Transit Connect 2007.

Another rather concerning issue. When I release the clutch to change it revs up for a couple of seconds. Noticing it most on 1st and 2nd gear although it might happen with others just be less noticeable.

What to do about it? Don't know where I would begin with that really.

Clutch switch.

Genuine Ford Clutch Pedal Upper Control Switch 2003-2023 1343269 | eBay UK

9 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Clutch switch.

Genuine Ford Clutch Pedal Upper Control Switch 2003-2023 1343269 | eBay UK

Thanks is it hard to replace myself? For reference I have replaced the alternator last year, so how would it be compared to that?

Just reading up now and looks pretty straight forward? and easier than alternator!

1 hour ago, anotherforduser said:

Thanks is it hard to replace myself? For reference I have replaced the alternator last year, so how would it be compared to that?

Just reading up now and looks pretty straight forward? and easier than alternator!

Yes, technically easy to replace. But you do need to be fairly flexible to get up above the pedals.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, technically easy to replace. But you do need to be fairly flexible to get up above the pedals.

Well putting the belt back on the alternator required flexibility in the extreme too when doing it on the ground without a car lift! whatever those mechanic ones are called (ramp?)

44 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes, technically easy to replace. But you do need to be fairly flexible to get up above the pedals.

Btw, what will happen if I don't deal with it. Not that I plan to leave it for long but I am wondering how dangerous it is in the short term? As it can it make the vehicle accelerate more and more, or is it only related to the clutch being and engaged and disengaged?

I will make plans to get another one but as per my previous post might take a week or two due to mailing limitations but is it ok to drive in the meantime?

12 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

Btw, what will happen if I don't deal with it.

Nothing. The engine is only revving out of gear because it doesn't know you've pressed the clutch, there is no drive to the wheels at that point so no safety concern.

If the engine is revving itself in gear when the clutch is not pressed then there is a different fault.

2 hours ago, TomsFocus said:

Nothing. The engine is only revving out of gear because it doesn't know you've pressed the clutch, there is no drive to the wheels at that point so no safety concern.

If the engine is revving itself in gear when the clutch is not pressed then there is a different fault.

Of course lol. Thanks for confirming. Is it bad for the engine itself? It is only a slight increase which I was looking on the rev meter last time I was driving, maybe 10% above what it already was for 2-3 seconds then goes back down again.

1 hour ago, anotherforduser said:

Is it bad for the engine itself?

No.

On 2/24/2026 at 12:24 PM, TomsFocus said:

No.

Ok, then that begs the question, what happens if I just leave it as is and not replace it? :)

18 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

Ok, then that begs the question, what happens if I just leave it as is and not replace it? :)

Nothing.

21 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Nothing.

Will it not get worse and worse over time until the revving might be hard to bear or is there an upper limit? or perhaps worse that it would break completely causing bigger issues and this is a sign to mend it now? Just trying to get a read on the urgency if any to fix it. I have happily left many other things go unfixed that were none critical to the driving experience like my electric window, which I just unplugged, and 12V port which got a socket stuck in there a couple of weeks back and which the fuse is now blown, to name but a couple.

Just wondering if it can be another 'let sleeping dogs lie' issue.

Literally nothing will happen. It's just a comfort feature to make smoother gear changes. Cars never used to have them.

On 2/26/2026 at 6:02 PM, TomsFocus said:

Literally nothing will happen. It's just a comfort feature to make smoother gear changes. Cars never used to have them.

So are you saying that it is actually normal behaviour for the engine to rev up a bit more when changing were it not for this feature so all cars would have done that before they were added?

3 hours ago, anotherforduser said:

So are you saying that it is actually normal behaviour for the engine to rev up a bit more when changing were it not for this feature so all cars would have done that before they were added?

Not quite. But near enough. ECU mapping is more complex than I'm going to type out here. But essentially modern cars are designed to cut the revs quickly when you press the clutch, and raise them again to 'rev match' if necessary for the next gear when you lift the clutch. If the PCM doesn't know you've pressed the clutch it won't cut the revs, and because the load (friction from the road) has been removed from the engine, the revs suddenly increase briefly. It's really not doing any harm, just a bit irritating.

On 2/28/2026 at 9:06 AM, TomsFocus said:

Not quite. But near enough. ECU mapping is more complex than I'm going to type out here. But essentially modern cars are designed to cut the revs quickly when you press the clutch, and raise them again to 'rev match' if necessary for the next gear when you lift the clutch. If the PCM doesn't know you've pressed the clutch it won't cut the revs, and because the load (friction from the road) has been removed from the engine, the revs suddenly increase briefly. It's really not doing any harm, just a bit irritating.

Thanks. Hmm each time I investigate a part that has to be fixed is the more I find out how complex these machines are! which we otherwise take for granted. Quite a feat of human engineering.

One man's irritating is another man's needless job spared. lol.

On 2/28/2026 at 9:06 AM, TomsFocus said:

Not quite. But near enough. ECU mapping is more complex than I'm going to type out here. But essentially modern cars are designed to cut the revs quickly when you press the clutch, and raise them again to 'rev match' if necessary for the next gear when you lift the clutch. If the PCM doesn't know you've pressed the clutch it won't cut the revs, and because the load (friction from the road) has been removed from the engine, the revs suddenly increase briefly. It's really not doing any harm, just a bit irritating.

Ok I have changed my mind having driven again and also I'm not sure it is just the clutch as it seems to be happening with acceleration, separate from clutch depression.

I was monitoring the revs while having my foot on the accelerator and also when I took it off, without touching the clutch. While doing this I noticed that the revs will often stay on the level it was at when I removed my foot from the pedal for a few seconds before going down.

The vehicle didn't decelerate noticeably either until after these few seconds had passed at the point the revs went down.

Also a few times when this happened I tried manually pushing the accelerator up by placing my foot underneath the pedal and applying some pressure and this seemed to reduce the revs. I am not sure there is a 100% correlation on this though.

I do want to fix this now, whatever the cause, as the revs do increase quite badly in particular on the lower gear changes. I thought people outside the vehicle, such as people walking, might see it as me doing it intentionally as an aggressive act. Not the only reason to fix but another one.

Does the above information still indicate the issue you stated originally or something else?

Oh and I have my mot in may so thinking I better get this sorted before then. Would it be cause for a fail or just a warning?

EDIT: I just read that sticky throttle cable, among some other causes, could be the possible problem: https://www.gumtree.com/question-answers/why-does-my-car-keep-accelerating-when-i-take-my-f-97041

19 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

Does the above information still indicate the issue you stated originally or something else?.

Something else.

It won't make any difference to MOT, not a fail or advisory.

Cars haven't had a throttle cable for 30 years. The pedal is just an electronic sensor that feeds information to the ECU. Then the ECU tells the fuel injectors how much fuel to add. There's no direct connection between the throttle pedal and the engine on most modern cars.

That makes it very difficult to diagnose faults like this. It could be a faulty pedal (which would tally with you manually lifting it to reduce revs) or it could be a wiring issue, or something to do with the ECU or injectors or even a completely separate sensor such as airflow etc.

27 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Something else.

It won't make any difference to MOT, not a fail or advisory.

Cars haven't had a throttle cable for 30 years. The pedal is just an electronic sensor that feeds information to the ECU. Then the ECU tells the fuel injectors how much fuel to add. There's no direct connection between the throttle pedal and the engine on most modern cars.

That makes it very difficult to diagnose faults like this. It could be a faulty pedal (which would tally with you manually lifting it to reduce revs) or it could be a wiring issue, or something to do with the ECU or injectors or even a completely separate sensor such as airflow etc.

Thanks. Oh dear, it sounds like a much bigger problem than the initial suggestion then or perhaps not bigger but harder to pinpoint, as you mention. Any tips for diagnosing then? I would really like to avoid having to send to a mechanic if I can help it.

Also could this new issue become dangerous? The other one we discussed it was harmless but what about this one? Could the accelerator just go haywire and cause more and more acceleration to unsafe levels? Of course I shall keep monitoring for worsening and would stop driving if it was getting worse but wonder if something could happen all of a sudden while driving?

I understand it is hard to know without knowing the root cause but are there any ways you could think it could cause a significant problem while driving?

9 minutes ago, anotherforduser said:

Thanks. Oh dear, it sounds like a much bigger problem than the initial suggestion then or perhaps not bigger but harder to pinpoint, as you mention. Any tips for diagnosing then? I would really like to avoid having to send to a mechanic if I can help it.

Also could this new issue become dangerous? The other one we discussed it was harmless but what about this one? Could the accelerator just go haywire and cause more and more acceleration to unsafe levels? Of course I shall keep monitoring for worsening and would stop driving if it was getting worse but wonder if something could happen all of a sudden while driving?

I understand it is hard to know without knowing the root cause but are there any ways you could think it could cause a significant problem while driving?

Getting Forscan is the first step to check for any Ford specific fault codes stored on the ECU. (These codes are often hidden from generic garage scanners so wouldn't recommend taking it to a garage for something like this).

If there are no codes then you have to look at live data instead, still using Forscan. In this case you could check whether the pedal press percentage shown by the ECU matches where your foot is for example. (25% for quarter throttle, 50% for half throttle, etc).

There are two sensors inside the pedal for safety, so it 'shouldn't' ever get so bad that the car is uncontrollable as the ECU should notice the discrepancy between the two sensors. However there is always the chance of random anomalies when it comes to electronics. The more likely 'worst case' is that the pedal just stops working altogether, and you end up coasting down to idle speed, or unable to pull away any faster than idle speed.

As far as I remember these vans were based on the 2002-2008 Mk6 Fiesta, and they did have a lot of throttle pedal problems. (Often accompanied by a dash warning saying 'EAC Failure'. I've never seen anyone crash because of those faults though, so if it does happen then it's extremely rare.

22 minutes ago, TomsFocus said:

Getting Forscan is the first step to check for any Ford specific fault codes stored on the ECU. (These codes are often hidden from generic garage scanners so wouldn't recommend taking it to a garage for something like this).

If there are no codes then you have to look at live data instead, still using Forscan. In this case you could check whether the pedal press percentage shown by the ECU matches where your foot is for example. (25% for quarter throttle, 50% for half throttle, etc).

There are two sensors inside the pedal for safety, so it 'shouldn't' ever get so bad that the car is uncontrollable as the ECU should notice the discrepancy between the two sensors. However there is always the chance of random anomalies when it comes to electronics. The more likely 'worst case' is that the pedal just stops working altogether, and you end up coasting down to idle speed, or unable to pull away any faster than idle speed.

As far as I remember these vans were based on the 2002-2008 Mk6 Fiesta, and they did have a lot of throttle pedal problems. (Often accompanied by a dash warning saying 'EAC Failure'. I've never seen anyone crash because of those faults though, so if it does happen then it's extremely rare.

Thanks for the explanation and reassurance. :)

Ok, as the worst case does not seem too dire I will consider it a work in progress, but one I will actually seek to resolve. :)

Hmm interesting, so you are saying it is better to DIY it anyway with forscan as probably I would end up out of pocket with no resolution even if taken to a garage?

What are the steps to get this forscan thing going? I have read about it before but only in a disinterested manner as I had not had cause to use it in the past. I am just doing a search. It seems well documented but any tips welcome, from your learned perspective, to shorten my learning curve. :)

EDIT: Quite the variance in prices for the forscan stuff just looking on ebay to see what the market is like. From £9.99 up to £179. Usb ones seem in the lower end. Don't want to spend £100+ odd if I can help it. :)

1 hour ago, anotherforduser said:

Hmm interesting, so you are saying it is better to DIY it anyway with forscan as probably I would end up out of pocket with no resolution even if taken to a garage?

Yes.

Unfortunately my Forscan experience is out of date now. I used to use a modified ELM cable with manual switching but from what I've read on here Forscan no longer works properly with those. The Forscan website shows a list of compatible adapters, the one usually recommended on here is the V-Linker. There are different ones depending on whether it's being used with a windows laptop or a mobile device.

I just plugged my cable into the laptop, downloaded cable drivers, downloaded the Forscan program for free, and it just worked. Again, that's probably out of date nowadays.

1 minute ago, TomsFocus said:

Yes.

Unfortunately my Forscan experience is out of date now. I used to use a modified ELM cable with manual switching but from what I've read on here Forscan no longer works properly with those. The Forscan website shows a list of compatible adapters, the one usually recommended on here is the V-Linker. There are different ones depending on whether it's being used with a windows laptop or a mobile device.

I just plugged my cable into the laptop, downloaded cable drivers, downloaded the Forscan program for free, and it just worked. Again, that's probably out of date nowadays.

Thanks. Ok, I shall continue my research.

FWIW, I've had my accelerator pedal changed after a month (warranty) on my new Focus in 2017 (so it's unlikely to be the same parts at all ???) for the same problem (revs would sometimes go up for 2-3 seconds while both feet were up, I only noticed that in traffic jams... every morning). The guy told me I was the 3rd in a month to report that sort of problem.

19 hours ago, Ponch said:

(so it's unlikely to be the same parts at all ???)

Thanks for the information. What do you mean by the above quoted part? I didn't catch what you mean for that bit.