Hi everyone, Can anybody assist me on how i could install my system. This are the items i have and to be run by my stock head unit.

1. Amplifier: clarion XR2410 4ch amp(60 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms)accepts both speaker line and RCA plug

2. Phoenix gold RSD65CS component speaker (front door)

3. Boston acoustics SE65RC coaxial speakers (rear doors)

4. Bazooka BTA6100 amplified sub

Questions:

1. What would be a better option to use speaker line or use LOC and use the RCA plug to the amplifier?

2. Which is a better place to tap my amplified sub? From the front or the rear speaker wires?

3. Will it be OK to tap an amplified sub from an amplified speaker wire source? Meaning i will double amplify my sub since i will be tapping on either front or rear speaker. If their is a better option of installing the amplified please advice.

My first question is how you're planning to turn 4 outputs into 4 speakers and a sub without your amp having rca outputs? You don't have enough channels to run your system.

My advice based on ur post? Use the high line inputs on amp and run the front speakers. Use line converters to run rear outputs to sub. Means you can use the front/rear bias to control sub volume.

Losing the rear speaker but will mean you're running everything how they're meant to be run, = better system.

Danny.

My first question is how you're planning to turn 4 outputs into 4 speakers and a sub without your amp having rca outputs? You don't have enough channels to run your system.

My advice based on ur post? Use the high line inputs on amp and run the front speakers. Use line converters to run rear outputs to sub. Means you can use the front/rear bias to control sub volume.

Losing the rear speaker but will mean you're running everything how they're meant to be run, = better system.

Danny.

I am planing to run the front and rear speakers with the 4ch amplifier, using the speaker level inputs. And tap the subwoofer on the rear or front speaker wire (whichever is better). Because the bazooka amplified sub recommends using speaker level inputs over low level inputs. I'm just worried tapping the amplified sub from an amplified speaker wires. Which means it will be amplified twice.

Your 4ch amp is gonna need 4 inputs to get 4 outputs.

Are you suggesting splitting one of the signals and running it to both the 4ch AND the sub?

yes. 1 and 2 channel will run the front speakers. 3 and 4 channel will be shared by the rear speakers and the sub. Can this be possible?

yes. 1 and 2 channel will run the front speakers. 3 and 4 channel will be shared by the rear speakers and the sub. Can this be possible?

For the sub Amp your Best to tap in to one of the rear speaker cables at the back of the stereo before it goes in to the 4 channel amp,

and you need to find out what side of the car the audio cables are running to the back speakers,

as the power cables and remote line (If Fitted) run them the opposite side of the car.

as if you run audio and power both on the same side of the car this can cause interference on the sub hums and pops etc.

perhaps mount the amps under the seats and run the cables from there.

this way you will have to use less cable running them from the battery, and you can earth them both near the seats.

best to run one possitive cable from the battery for each amp rather than one daisy chain.

also recommend one of these Click Here and see how the system goes you may also get better sound by using a Capacitor or power cap as their also known

Heres my old system lol

Right.... I'm sorry if I sound really rude here, but there is no way you should be using one output for more than one speaker..... if you want to do that, you're halving the signal as it's going to 2 places.... so you're now sending half a signal into an amp input and the other half to the sub which would half to go into a line converter..... both amp and line converter want a full signal, but you're sending half? Very very very silly thing to do.

If you really want to get all this running and do it properly from a standard head unit, you need an amp that will give an rca out so you can feed that through to your amp..... still not the perfect way, but again... you'r working with a standard head unit, which is always a bad start for anyone serious about an ice install.

Lenny.... some of the stuff in your post is right... about the running of the wires down opposites sides etc.... but some of it is very bad practice.... the general practice of mounting an amp under a seat is a massive no no.... unless you're lucky enough to have some of the class D amps that don't generate much heat at all and can be mounted anywhere... 99% of amp need alot of air around them, including the one stated in the original post.

Also, power caps don't enhance the sound of a system at all.... they only stop power draining from other parts of the car when a sudden surge is drawn from battery e.g. lights dimming when bass is loud.

I still stick by running only two front speakers amp'd and a sub... properly installed will easily outperform the botch job you sound like you're aiming for.

again, apologies for sounding very rude, but I seriously think you need to listen a little more

Danny

Good advice Danny your very right mate. I don't want to mess around with all of that so maybe at some point will upgrade the speakers but meh, I've been through all the sound system stuff when I was 18 lol bit grown out of it now. Prefer to listen to my J1 air filter lol

Thanks for the advice guys, very much appreciated. I was hoping i could do the same way, how i hooked up my amplified sub to the stock rear speaers, but now with the help of the amplifier. Because my set up now, is the stock head unit running the front and rear speakers and tapped the amplified sub on the rear speaker wire. So far everything sounds well. I was just hoping i could install everything the same way only to pass thru a 4ch amplifier so i could get stronger signal and to install a better speakers for the front and rear doors and again to tap the amplified sub on the rear speaker wires.

again, apologies for sounding very rude, but I seriously think you need to listen a little more

Danny

I don't think it's rude mate, i always open to learning, i just dont like to see amps on display in an ice install.

Chofilena, it sounds like you're going to go do whatever you want, regardless of the quality and safety of your car. Good luck

Lenny... I agree mate, hidden amps is a great idea, just make sure that plenty of air get circulated around the amp, e.g. use fans to keep it cool.

Unless of course you use alpine pdx class D amps, phenomenal equipment, they can actually be stacked!

Just talked with the tech support of bazooka and they advised me to tap the amp sub between the HU and the amplifier (like lenny suggested) and run the front and rear speakers on the 4 channel amp.

Danny... Your not being rude man, but anyways apologies accepted. I'm still open for suggestions regarding the best set-up i could possibly do to what i have now to fit my budget. By the way i got the morel maximo 6.5 component speakers instead of the Pheonix gold. It would be nice i you could make me a diagram on a better installation for my upgrades. I'm willing to sacrifice the rear speakers for better sound quality. Please correct me if Im wrong but this is how i understood your suggestion.

From the head unit i will install an LOC from the front speaker wires to the front speaker RCA input of the 1 and 2 channels of the amplifier. And for the rear speaker wires from the head unit i will tap the amplified sub there and not use the rear door speakers. Ís this correct? So all i needed for my set-up was a 2ch amp and not 4 since i already have an amplified sub. Please bear with me, I'm new in car audio installation.

Just talked with the tech support of bazooka and they advised me to tap the amp sub between the HU and the amplifier (like lenny suggested) and run the front and rear speakers on the 4 channel amp.

Danny... Your not being rude man, but anyways apologies accepted. I'm still open for suggestions regarding the best set-up i could possibly do to what i have now to fit my budget. By the way i got the morel maximo 6.5 component speakers instead of the Pheonix gold. It would be nice i you could make me a diagram on a better installation for my upgrades. I'm willing to sacrifice the rear speakers for better sound quality. Please correct me if Im wrong but this is how i understood your suggestion.

From the head unit i will install an LOC from the front speaker wires to the front speaker RCA input of the 1 and 2 channels of the amplifier. And for the rear speaker wires from the head unit i will tap the amplified sub there and not use the rear door speakers. Ís this correct? So all i needed for my set-up was a 2ch amp and not 4 since i already have an amplified sub. Please bear with me, I'm new in car audio installation.

Although the advice you have been given around running all 4 speakers and the sub will work.... It's silly.

But yeah, the description of what i was saying was very very close, the only part I'd question is where you're putting the line converters (the things that take it from lineout level down to rca level).

Avoid using the converters if you can.. e.g. does your speaker amp have a high level input? If so, you don't need the converters for the front speakers. Does the sub amp have high level inputs? If not then you need em.

By leaving out the back speakers, you're avoiding running multiple speakers of one channel, apart from better sound (sending half a signal into a high level input or a line down converter will result if less of an output) you will also be gaining more control of the sub (fade your head unit front and rear to control sub volume).

And yes, you will be leaving two of your channels on ur 4 channel amp unused. Bit of a shame but better to have too many than too little. If you get carried away with this in car stuff, then there's a good chance ur stereo will be swapped out at sometime for a better unit with more rca outputs.

Danny

Thank you again. I will not be using a line converter. Because my amp and subwoofer has both high level input and i will be using that. So i will do what you suggest, if it will give me the best sounding quality of my system capabilities.

So this is what i will do:

1. From the head unit of the front speaker wire i connect the amplifier using high level input to 1 ch and 2 ch of the amplifier for the front component speakers.

2. From the head unit of the rear speaker wire i connect my amplified sub using high level input.

note: And leave rear door speakers and 3 ch, 4 ch of the amplifier disconnected. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Please also advice me on where is the best location to install my tweeters? thanks again

yeah thats exactly how I'm meaning. Trust me, it will be worth it.

Tweeter location? The general rules of tweeter location is having both tweeters directly facing your ears (or as close as poss) and having both tweeters the same distance from your ears (almost impossible given you're not sat in the middle of the car.

Some people like to have their tweeters facing the windscreen so they can try bounce the high frequencies around the car... but tbh, thats just asking for standing waves and the risk of cancelling out their own sounds

Danny

yeah thats exactly how I'm meaning. Trust me, it will be worth it.

Tweeter location? The general rules of tweeter location is having both tweeters directly facing your ears (or as close as poss) and having both tweeters the same distance from your ears (almost impossible given you're not sat in the middle of the car.

Some people like to have their tweeters facing the windscreen so they can try bounce the high frequencies around the car... but tbh, thats just asking for standing waves and the risk of cancelling out their own sounds

ust

Danny

Thank you for helping out, will install my system soon. Got everything except for my amp still waiting for it to arrive. But will probably install my component system and try if my head unit can handle the speakers. Will update you guys soon. Thanks Danny, thanks Lenny

Thank you for helping out, will install my system soon. Got everything except for my amp still waiting for it to arrive. But will probably install my component system and try if my head unit can handle the speakers. Will update you guys soon. Thanks Danny, thanks Lenny

No problem mate i didnt have much help to give on this one though, Ive learned alot on this thread too mate,

Danny's a legened on Ice installs

will be a sweet system when fitted, keep us posted B)

No problem mate i didnt have much help to give on this one though, Ive learned alot on this thread too mate,

Danny's a legened on Ice installs

will be a sweet system when fitted, keep us posted B)

Lenny, will do that thanks.

Danny, Sorry i need to ask you one last question. How do i tap my amplified sub to the rear speakers? Should i tap it on the rear positive of the left speaker and the negative of the right speaker?

Haha, thanks for the compliments, its just experience that's taught me.... And a bit of college. :P

Regarding how to wire a standard unit into the sub.... Let me get back to you on that. Your idea does sound logical, but I'm a little worried that its maybe a bit too much like bridging. Common practice on an amp, but from a head unit, I'm unsure.

You won't be changing the left/right bias anyway I assume? so even if you need to take + and - from one channel, you won't be affected.

I'll get back to you.

Haha, thanks for the compliments, its just experience that's taught me.... And a bit of college. :P

Regarding how to wire a standard unit into the sub.... Let me get back to you on that. Your idea does sound logical, but I'm a little worried that its maybe a bit too much like bridging. Common practice on an amp, but from a head unit, I'm unsure.

You won't be changing the left/right bias anyway I assume? so even if you need to take + and - from one channel, you won't be affected.

I'll get back to you.

I guess its something like bridging. It got me thinking again. Because if i wire the sub on the left speaker. The right speakers wire will be open and i'm worried for my head unit putting out power with no speakers installed.

Don't worry about that. Its putting out a signal now and there's nothing wrong. It's not a power signal anyway, its audio, so absolutely no harm in it.

Understand?

Don't worry about that. Its putting out a signal now and there's nothing wrong. It's not a power signal anyway, its audio, so absolutely no harm in it.

Understand?

The way understand it,you're suggesting that i tap my sub on either left or right speaker wire and get from one power source. Talking about bridging,i wonder if i can bridge my amp 1,2 channel and 3, 4 channel to run the front speakers? I am asking because the manual of the amp says its 60 x 4@4 ohms but when bridged is 100 x 2@4 ohms. By doing this, i could be able to maximize my amp and can supply sufficient power to my speakers which has a rating of 90 watts RMS. Is that correct?

Yes about the sub.

And technically you're correct about bridging the amp and maximising power to speakers, but that puts you back to the original problem..... To get an output on all 4 channels on the amp, you need to send in 4 signals.... You only have the front 2.

Would be a waste of time putting a y splitter on em... Then you'd just be halfing the signal to the amp, to amplify and bridge, creating probably the same power output as just wiring it normally.

Hopefully this has answered your question......

I guess everything now is covered. Thanks for the big help and will update you how it turns out.