I have broken my locking wheel nut on rear axle,

what would be the best way of getting the wheel off.

have tried drilling round out side of nut but not very successful

Only answer is to drill it out. Use a centre punch to mark the centre of the bolt. Drill a pilot hole and then gradually increase the size of hole until you then use a 10.5mm drill. Then use a M12x1.5 tap and re-thread the hole. Hopefully if you are accurate you will run down the original thread. Good luck !! (Think I'm correct saying its a M12 thread ??)

Be careful! I had the exact same problem on my locking wheel nut for the nearside rear... took it to a garage, they tried that method to no avail, also the socket hammer over the top failed due to the loose ring on the nut. They tried to heat the begger up with a torch, and that just marked the wheel and caused more hassle.

In the end they had to axle grind the wheel off, and then the remaining locknut. Unfortunately they ended up grinding into the stub which didnt help!

So just be careful who you take it to, as you have already attempted to rectify you may have made it worse. You are best taking it to the dealer on this ocassion, it may cost more to get it removed, however if they damage the wheel in any way, you may be able to claim for the damage and get them to replace the wheel FOC!

if their is any of the head remaining, you could get a bolt welded on to the face of it then unscrew the bolt taking the rest of the nut with it,

put a blanket over the wheel if welding though, dont want to damage the wheel or paint work.

If only it was that easy Lenny! the torches give off too much heat and most times will burn thewheel somewhere along the line, be that above the weld spot, or below the with the sparks.

It hurt my wallet!

Other thing to try if not confident of drilling and tapping all the way through - just mark the centre as before and drill past the depth of the remaining head. Then gradually increase hole size up to just larger than 12mm. This should allow the remaining head to fall off. Then continue with pilot hole in stud (stud should now be marked by drilling the head off)and purchase a set of stud extractors, that way there's no need to drill stud out fully. Once the head is removed the stud should move easier using the stud extractors but spray liberally first with WD40 or better still PlusGas.

These look interesting..........

My link

Might be worth a shot! if its likely to lock into the bolt and pull it out at the same time, It might be worth the investment, however, if you do try that, and you still damage the bolt too far, then you could still be looking at an expensive extraction...

is it a bolt or a nut? if its a focus then i presume its nuts

Some garages might be able to weld a nut on to the lock nut and then remove it. It's not a mcgaurd lock nut is it?

thanks for all suggestions,

drilled some more holes round stud sprayed with wd40 and thrashed with hammer and punch came off in the end,

man in ford garage said i would have to buy whole hub can't get just the studs ?

re threaded original stud jobs a good'n.

found out 4 bolts on back would have taken lot off but a bit difficult to get to.

thanks for all suggestions,

drilled some more holes round stud sprayed with wd40 and thrashed with hammer and punch came off in the end,

man in ford garage said i would have to buy whole hub can't get just the studs ?

re threaded original stud jobs a good'n.

found out 4 bolts on back would have taken lot off but a bit difficult to get to.

im pretty sure ford sell the studs, I've seen them somewhere anyway.

The 4 bolts on the back will indeed let you remove the stub axle/hub, not to bad to get at, a long extension bar and a 13mm socket.

what year of focus?

im pretty sure ford sell the studs, I've seen them somewhere anyway.

The 4 bolts on the back will indeed let you remove the stub axle/hub, not to bad to get at, a long extension bar and a 13mm socket.

what year of focus?

it's a 55 plate they are star shaped heads on the back,

phoned up unipart, they said the same, i see some on ebay if i was desperate butok now, :)

it's a 55 plate they are star shaped heads on the back,

phoned up unipart, they said the same, i see some on ebay if i was desperate butok now, :)

ahh my mistake, i was thinking it was a mk1 or 1.5

@and, so its all sorted ok now? what was the final damage to the car? just the one stud that needs replacing...?