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1.6 Tdci Zetec S - Mrk 2.5 Build Dates Do They Matter?


damodici
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Morning all,

Today were going to do some test driving of cars and one on the list is the 1.6 tdci zetec s (2010 reg)

Having done a fair amount of reading in to various DPF issues and turbo issues I'm just wanting a bit of clarification on the build dates

Some topics and posts seem to suggest the turbo failures on the 1.6 tdci engines were rectified by ford on the later builds by them changing something in the sump and some seals? (You can tell I'm no mechanic)

I've been checking the reg numbers on the Ford etis site and both cars we're looking at have a build date of may 2010 so would these be likely to have had the fixes put in place at the factory?

Also did the DPF's change to a different type later on, I believe a type where you don't top up the fluid? A coated DPF?

The dpf may be less of a worry to me as I'm likely to bite the bullet and have it removed/gutted (Shell left in place for future MOT regs) and then remapped.

It's mainly the dodgy turbos I'm bothered about.

Both cars have circa 20k on the clocks by the way

Any help gravely received

Cheers

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Morning all,

Today were going to do some test driving of cars and one on the list is the 1.6 tdci zetec s (2010 reg)

Any help gravely received

Cheers

Hi Damon,

The 1.6TDCi turbo outlet penilum was upgraded in 2007 aswell as the turbo seals and sump filter pipe.

In 2009 ford upgrade the DPF to ceramic so they don't require topping up, you can confirm this by looking under the car close to the rear bumper on the fuel tank side; an eloys mini fuel tank will be present if the dpf is not ceramic,

But I have a july 2010 built 1.6TDCi and the dpf is ceramic.

Once the car has been serviced reguraly then the turbo should be fine,

Its when not serviced the oil builds up carbon deposits which slowly build up and block the oil feed to the turbo causing the turbo to starve of oil and split.

Even with a full service history, id get the oil feed pipe and sump filter on the pipe changed every 80,000 miles and fit an egr blanking plate after you purchase the car to help reduce carbon build up. Ensure the egr blanking plate is made of stainless steel because alluminium ones break through putting bits of the plate through your exhaust system.

Another common fault with the ford/citroen/peugeot engine is the fuel injectors can leak,

If left to leak can cause turbo failure,

But this is easy to see from the top of the engine their would be a puddle of diesel escaping from the injector and you would hear them clicking rapidly but not to be confused with the ticking of the diesel engine.

Look up Youtube for leaking injectors on focus diesel for a definition of sound.

The 1.6TDCi is not a bad engine,

As long as its serviced and you check once a month for the common fault of injector leak its cool.

I've got my 90bhp remapped to 125bhp with a 2.5" DPF back duplex and Green Cottont induction filter since august last year,

ZetecS is a lovely spec too.

But if you get the option of a 1.8TDCi zetecS id take it instead, as their are no common problems known

However their may be problems with the 1.8TDCi but none consistant.

So perhaps "better the devil you know" with the 1.6TDCi you know what to expect.

Also check the top centre of the boot between the hinges for a spot of rust;

Where the rear washer jet pipe sits.

When the boot is closed the pipe rubs off the body stripping the paint,

Happened mine at 3 months old, ford put an anti-chip pad in place to prevent it but on my model it was in the wrong place.

If buying from a garage this is a known common fault on all focus hatch including ST from 2005-2011 so they should fix it.

See my guide entitled "is your focus rusting"

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/18826-2010-focus-16tdci-rusting/

Another common fault with the body on all focus hatch including st 2005-2011 is the seals around the bolts holding the rear spoiler to the boot can leak; allowing rain water in to the boot gathering in the spare tyre well and if left long enough or you were driving and breaked hard.

You would get it flowingvto the rear footwells,

This is an easy fix of some DIY bathroom silicone,

Remove the rear spoiler (counting the bolt rotations so as you dont over tighten when putting back in)

apply silicone around the 5 bolt holes and refit the spoiler,

Another fault from 2005-2008 was a badly designed pollen filter housing which was prone to water leaks aswell but later updated in 2008.

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thanks Lenny,

superb knowledge there.

the first one we looked at was a bit of a ratter imo so im moving on to the next.

its amazing what dinks and scrapes people can put a car through in 20k :)

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thanks Lenny,

superb knowledge there.

the first one we looked at was a bit of a ratter imo so im moving on to the next.

its amazing what dinks and scrapes people can put a car through in 20k :)

I agree,

Scratched my bumper removing the headlight to upgrade the bulbs to Osram NightBreaker.

Thankfully though its the only scratch on the body,

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