Hi Folks,

I've just bought a 1996 fiesta (for pocket money) with a known fault: It wouldn't go over 60 mph and wouldn't rev over 4000 in neutral. It has the 1.8 non-turbo Endura-DE engine with Bosch VE injection pump. It was also a little slow to start, but that appeared to be lack of fuel at the pump. Apparently the timing belt (pump and camshaft) was changed in January and according to the owner more recently than that it started to slow down. It started and ran at idle and around town quite easily, doesn't rattle or knock (other than diesel rattle of course) and has done 100,000 miles. Oil pressure light goes off almost immediately and pulls pretty evenly on all cylinders which suggested to me that the basic engine was sound and it was some ancillary component that was not right.

It was a bit slow to start, and so far I've changed all the low pressure piping near the engine to ones with proper hose clips as I'm suspicious of the push-fit connectors Ford use that don't seem very robust or 'grippy' to me. I've also bypassed the fuel heater (that I've been told can leak air when they age) and original filter and put my own transparent-bodied filter in and set up bypass fuel recirculation, so only fuel being burnt is sucked through the filter now.

Already it starts instantly and has a bit more poke and goes 60 uphill, but still will only rev in neutral to about 4500 and won't go beyond about 65 on the level. Beyond about 2500 revs it begins to feel as though the power delivery curve is beginning to diverge from what it should be, or what I would expect, but it has a bit more torque lower down now than it did. So clearly there was some problem either with air leaking in to the fuel or fuel supply constraint, but that was obviously not the whole problem.

What else should I be looking at and how do I test it? I haven't had a handy assistant yet to do things while I monitor smoke, for instance. It doesn't seem to smoke much from the drivers seat from what I can tell. I haven't yet checked the air filter, but will do when my K&N one arrives, because the air filter housing is securely bolted down, and haven't checked the EGR valve that I notice is electronically controlled. The Haynes manual I've ordered is in the post, but in my experience, they often don't say what the effects of failure of different components will be. In terms of fault identification from symptoms they can be pretty unhelpful.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or similar experiences. And yes, I have checked that the accelerator pedal is not restricted nor is the stop on the injector pump preventing more fuel being injected!

I promise also to keep you updated with what I find so it will help others.

Mike

Hi Mike,

not that I am an expert but here are a few thoughts: have you checked the oil filler cap for the dreaded 'mayonnaise' residue which can indicate a leaking head gasket, are the miles genuine.

What condition is the engine oil, jet black and very thin may signify diesel getting past the piston rings- worn bores and lack of power, but should still rev to the limiter when stationary but have limited power under load, but not a 100,00mls.

Injector (s) might be shot.

Does the radiator get warm, and the return pipe from the block get warm, fan come on.

You mention air filter, if that is clogged the engine cannot 'breath' as its revs build.

Fuel lines clean.

What should it rev to?-6,500.

Any how thats all I can think of, I am sure you will get better diagnosis from other members.

Cheers

Martin.

Martin,

Thanks for those suggestions. I'm pretty sure it's not fuel lines still causing a problem because now I've redirected the bypass fuel back to the inlet the volume of fuel drawn through the pipes from the tank is miniscule compared to before. Will be investigating oil and doing engine flush and oil change very soon. I would think worn injectors would get a bit smoky, but most should still function at 100,000 miles - my previous experience is that they will actually last well past that mileage.

My Haynes manual has now arrived so will be going through that with a fine toothed comb.

Mike

The old non-turbo engines usually slow up when the air filter blocks, if it runs ok then hit the air filter first.

Thanks, that's encouraging. I've already planned to address that issue just as soon as my K&N filter arrives, and I'll report back. I haven't opened the air box yet. Now that my haynes manual has arrived, I notice that the normal recommended maximum revs is only 4850 anyway, so it's not that far off that now.

Mike