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Couple Of Questions


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Got a couple of unrelated questions that you chaps (or chappettes) might be able to help me on

First question, I've now decided to spray all my interior trim pieces (head unit surround etc) in gloss black as I've gave up on doing it in carbon fibre

I've done a lot of spraying in the past and usually always get a nice smooth covering

This time round however I've got some serious orange peel going on so all my parts will need buffing down a bit to get rid of the orange peel before clear coating

Really paranoid about messing this up so whats the best technique for doing this?

1500grit wet n dry with a small amount of soap? how hard do i need to be rubbing? just want a nice smooth even finish prior to clear coat

Second question

As my cars the ghia it has the dash storage compartment where the boost gauge would go on the st

Question is how involved is removing the whole storage compartment be?

I've got a small mod i fancy doing where I'm gonna be removing the head unit etc and it requires removing the dash storage

Think i read somewhere about having to remove air vents? I cant be doing with that

Isn't it just a case of gently popping the dash storage up with a flat blade screwdriver to dislodge the clips?

Answers on a postcard :)

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Number 2 first :)

Its easy to remove , best way i found was to pull a vent out, and also the clocks which is only 2 screws , get your hand in and push the clips up. you can leave the clocks in , but risk breaking the clips if you can't get your hand in far enough..

First question , did you rub the surround back and degrease before you sprayed? , for the best result your always better to cut it back with wet n dry a couple of times then go a for a final coat , buff it , before clear coat.

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How do you pull out the vent exactly paul mate?

Dont really fancy taking the clocks out either

So its not as simple as jamming a screwdriver under the edge n popping it up as i go around? Or woukd this break the clips? How many clips are there?

The mod i fancy doing is installing a 12v supply in the storage compartment itself

Would it be as easy as popping the storage out, feeding a twincore wire down into the dash and splicing it into the existing 12v supply in me garage door unit?

How would i go about getting to the existing 12v supply wires? Or would it be easier to use a different 12v supply such as the one on the quadlock for the head unit?

With the spraying, what exactly do you mean by 'buff it' mate? Is buffing different to the wet n dry before the final coat?

How hard should i be wet n drying?

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By Buff it , i mean polish it with a compound paste to get it nice and smooth , plastic is not the easiest thing to paint , and as your looking at it on your dash you want to go for a blemish free finish , so if you build up the layers , you will get a deeper shine and a better finish.

No don't get a screw driver under the lid you will break it and possibly damage your dash.

The vents come out with two small screw drivers eaither side there are small tabs you need to prixe open , then grip the vent and pull at the same time.

The clocks are easy , drop the steering wheel down and forward , remove the top trim , then remove the two screws , and pull the clocks forward , un-clip the wiring , and remove , from there you will see the clips holding the pod section in above the clocks.

You can take a 12v ignition feed from any 12v live *BUT* fit a 3amp inline fuse , as it's doubtfull you will be plugging a cigar lighter in there , but if you want to play it safe then go to the 12v Aux in the fuse box or like you say splicing into the 12v Aux in the garage door area, but still fit an inline fuse.

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so i need to give it a rub with wet n dry to get rid of orange peel, give it a final coat, buff with a compound n then clear coat?

so by completely removing the clocks will it mess up any settings at all? dont wanna mess me car up by removing em lol

might sound silly but how important is the 3amp inline fuse? and what will happen if not fitted?

should i of fitted extra fuses when wiring in my second reverse light etc?

how would i access the back of the existing 12v supply in the garage door area?

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Yes you will have to rub it back to get rid of the Orange peel effect and smooth it out.

No settings sgould be lost while removing the clocks , just make sure ignition is off.

I always protect any added cicuits with extra fuses , always better to be safe than sorry , with places which have switches or if your plugging stuff in , incase you get a surge

If you look at my guide for the Cup holder lights it will tell you how to get to the back of the garage door.

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i'll let me bits dry n harden over night then tomorrow i'll get on em with some 1500grit then hopefully it'll smooth it all out ready for final coat

i've got a fair few extra circuits on my car without any extra fuses, pretty much all of em are for led's though (rear footwell lighting, led ignition barrel, second boot light) so i dont think theres any chance of a surge with them when led's use pretty much no power. plus all of them only come on when the cars off anyway

there isnt really any chance of a surge from me second reverse light is there? guess its led too as its cree

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Easy to do the extended 12v socket.

This is what you need-


Curiously enough i have all the bits needed, just never got around to using them myself.

If you want them they're yours mate. Just P/M me your postal address again as I don't have it anymore)

Spare socket, illuminated ring with connector (you'd just need to patch into the illumination wire taped up to the original socket wiring behind the cubbyhole (unless you already have the original one illuminated, so then in that case can be easily patched into), and a piggyback cable with all the correct connectors in place.

Easy to get to the back of your original socket, just remove the drivers side foot well panel connected to the centre console (one screw under a pop off cover).

A 22mm hole cutter is needed, but if i recall correctly you've already fitted a boot socket so you'll have the cutter still?

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Clive mate are you sure?

Thats darn decent of you sir

My original 12v supply isnt illuminated no, i dont thinkso anyway?

I dont have a 12v supply in my boot no mate, its something i talked about n plan on doing but havent got round to doing yet as im in no rush for that one

but for the hole for this 12v supply i could dremel it easy enough. I have got a 20mm hole saw bit though, i think its 20 anyway, that i could use initially then widen

i'm getting annoyed with having my satnav wire dangling over the dash, even with all the excess wire tucked neatly away in the garage door

So as i dont use the dash storage i'm thinking about an extra 12v supply in there so the satnav wire can go tidily away in there instead

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Probably the easiest way is then to put the illuminated ring in the cubby where the illumination wire already sits and move the standard black blank ring into the dash tray.

You need to push two small lugs inside the socket to separate it from the black ring.

Bit fiddly but saves snapping and mangling the ring and leaves it free to be reused.

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only just seen this post mate

i'll have a good butchers at what the crack is when your package arrives

think i'll do what you say and fit the illuminated ring in the garage door unit n put the original in the dash storage

not that the illumination would be seen at all lol as both storage compartments will be closed at all times

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To answer your orange peel question, a good rubbing with 1500 grit, followed by 2000grit. Then get some Farecla G4 cutting compound and give it some elbow grease!! Then some hi-gloss polish and then wax it. Turtle wax is the best, dont fall for this boutique bull crap that people are spouting about! Like do-do juice etc

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Charlie, look at Lennys guide on the ST pod fitting as he shows how to remove the vents and clocks if i remember correctly.

I've just got hold of a spare dash compartment and was thinking along similar lines but also thought about fitting a small tab to use with the torque app.

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Hi Charlie

Just reading this thread I noticed your question about fuses has gone unanswered. Now I don't know a lot about lots, but I know LOTS about some things! Simple if you are fitting extras not designed to be run through the fuse it is connected to, fit an extra inline! it will save a masive ammount of grief in the future. not saying it WILL happen BUT it could, wiring firesinterferance on diagnostics and sudden power losses are but a few of your potential problems. I have seen cars go up in smoke that a few pence would have prevented! From a guy who does lots of electrical work take a tip and fit fuses (the smaller the better) much better your bling appears less bright than you are sitting waiting for the fire brigade and watching your pride and joy burn! A fuse is about 20 pence! how much is your car worth? and remember Mr ford may have fitted a 40 amp fuse in the supply you are only taking 2 amps from! your extras are not protected.


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