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Any Updates On Performance Mods For The 1.6 Ti-Vct?


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Anyone found/done any useful mods to this engine yet? Would love to boost that 113bhp figure! This engine seems to be forgotten about! I know what the end verdict will be... Save and buy a 2.0 or an st lol but still im curious!

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ANY car can be tuned, as you have suggested though, is it cost- effective and are you not just better off buying a 2.0L or an ST, etc

Off- the shelf tuning for the ti vct -

remap - (+10hp/ +14Nm) "from £220"


BMC panel filter -


May improve throttle response - Probably only worth 1 to 2 Hp,. IF the filter is the most restrictive part of the imlet.

Other stuff you can do to the inlet - gas- flow the airbox, knife-edge the butterflies in the throttle bodie/s, gasflow/ match the inlet manifold to the head, re-design the inlet with larger diameter tubing, build a CAIS (cold air inlet system) or add more feeds - replace the throttle body with a larger diameter one, total-loss the breather (with/ without catchtank)

If you manage to improve the airflow the MAF sensor will detect it and adjust (increase) the fuelling to compensate, thus increasing power

Fuelling -

Add an IAT (inlet air temp) tuning box (could be remote controlled from the dash)

Fit larger injectors with higher capacity or modify the existing ones

Increase the fuel pressure with an upgraded fuel pressure regulator

Lower rotating mass -

Fit lighter wheels/ tyres (makes a surprising difference,- you can save upto 4kgs per wheel, that is weight that has to be "spinned up"/ and slowed down/ unsprung mass)

Lightened flywheel - (each pound off the flywheel is worth a lot of weight ) off the body in 1st gear, apparently

remove the AC (there is part of the pump (the pully) that always turns, even when the AC is turned off(approx 1.2kg)) the rest of the AC weighs 11kgs, most of which is forward of the front wheels, it made a BIG difference to the turn-in, (steering) when i removed mine.

Waterpump - you can fit an electric waterpump - this is expensive but reduces the load on the engine - will help the engine to rev better/ faster at the top end

Weight saving -

The spare tyre is heavy, and easy to remove, more than that not ADDING wieght (no 12" sub/ boot/doorpockets full of junk etc) - after that it gets a bit serious, like stripping out the interior etc (most will not want to do that) there are lighter components you can fit, (seats battery etc) its a lot of work/ hassle/ expense though

Eg carbon fiber bonnet, perspex glass etc

- i have a lightened Mondeo 2.0L estate, to match the power-to-weight ratio, an ST-TDCI >>hatch<< would need 210+hp - thats the difference the minus 150kgs makes, look at the effect the "sucsess" ballast has in saloon car racing

Exhaust - very important on an NA (naturally asperated/ non turbo) - a 4-2-1 manifold could be designed/ fabricated, along with a stainless- steel system with sports cat and straight-through silencers (there are places that will do this all for you- at a price)

Heat-wrapping or ceramic-coating the manifold/ downpipe/ exhaust etc

Plugs - you can fit "colder" iriddium - tipped plugs that wuoyd allow you to run more advance or a bit leaner

Fuel - higher octane fuel can help boost performance, fully synthetic oil is not going to do any harm, either on some cars you get a power gain by running the oil at the bottom of the dipstick (reduces pumping losses) - this is not always the case, though, and it may run dry in heavy cornering

Serious engine modifications - Blueprinting, gas-flowing the head, special/ lighter or modified pistons/rods/crank/ dynamically balanced/ toughened etc raising the compression or lowering it (for adding a turbo) dynamic balancing , high-lift cams, special valves etc uprated oil pump/ electric oil pump, high capacity oil cooler

There is more you can do but i recon you would only get about 150Hp out of it,(staying NA/ 1.6L ) which is a lot more than 115 but about the same as a 2.0L, and would probably cost more than buying a 2.0L to do it - and then you have the ST2.5, 225Hp out of the box and 270+ easily and cheaply achievable and 350Hp not out of the question with some time/ money spent, then there is the 1.8 and 2.0L turbo-diesels - cheap and easy to tune and still managing to keep the MPG

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That is a lot of ideas thanks! Like you said it takes a lot of £££ for a small increase in power i would be better getting something like the mk3 1.6 ecoboost (160bhp) i just bought my car and its gonna take a while before i can insure anything faster!

There is soo much tunning potential out of the fiesta ti-vct lump, mountune kits etc why have tunners forgot about the focus? i was split between the fiesta and focus zetec s went for the focus in the end because it was nicer looking, bigger and nicer interior in my opinion!

7.9 0-60 mountune fiesta would of been nice :(

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the ti vct was forgotten it wasnt expected to be a good seller the puma hadnt been withthe 1.7 ti vct so tuners left it alone till ford made clear ti vct was the way forward then suddenly tuners got into it by that time the mk2 and 2.5 were forgotten for the fiesta and the mk3 focus you can do a lot the issue comes with the ti vct to tune without effecting the timing advancement or retarding at the same time so that limits mods and few tuners even understand the ti vct system anyway you can do a few simple cheap things drop in a k and n filter cut an extra round hole in the airbox add a cold air intake pipe to it sitting behind the headlight wont give much gain though

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Agreed, most of my suggestions are universal to most cars

a turbo petrol or diesel is liable to have a larger relative gain than an NA

I think the above remap,(£220) the BMC filter, £50 gas-flowing/ de-webbing the air filter, with an extra feed, a total-loss breather with a catch-tank (£50-£100ish) would bring the power up to (realistically) 130Hp(10HP for the remap, and a realistic conservative 5hp for the other things),I know it does not sound very much, but the engine would rev better/higher/faster, and the throttle response would be sharper, and with a little bit of sensible lightening (including lighter wheels), and the high-octane fuel (with the remap/ ECU reset to take advantage of it) could knock as much as a second off the 0-60 times (I recon)

probably much more than this it would be as well to cut your losses and start from an engine with more potential/ cheaper/ easier to tune

(I forgot the short-shifter!) :lol:

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why dont you hav the bhp checked you may be surprised ive also got the 113bhp ti vct and when dynod i actually had 121bhp with just a k and n panel filter the draw back ide say is first gears far too short as is 2nd gear 3 and 4 are fine but as for 5th really you need a 6th gear very easy to redline it as well

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how are you finding your 1.6 artscot, loving it? dont get me wrong i love my car its great! drives well interior is great! just would love a bit more poke! but hey i just bought it gonna keep it for a few years!

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why dont you hav the bhp checked you may be surprised ive also got the 113bhp ti vct and when dynod i actually had 121bhp with just a k and n panel filter the draw back ide say is first gears far too short as is 2nd gear 3 and 4 are fine but as for 5th really you need a 6th gear very easy to redline it as well

sorry mate didnt realise you actually replied to the question i was about to ask!

Really! thats good news might just do a few we cheap breathing mods and be happy with it! yeah your right about the 1st gear and on the motorway the car is screaming to got into 6th! my car gives off a slight wooshing noise during acceleration sounds similar to a turbo spool do you have this?

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A good thing to start with is optimizing the air intake.

On my 1.6 Duratec (100 BHP) I removed all of the restrictions of the air filter box and resonator box, optimized the intake manifold for a better air flow and mounted a K&N panel filter. Next I replaced the stock 45 mm throttle body (which is the same for the TI-VCT) with a custom build 50 mm throttle body.

For the 1.4, 1.6 and 1.6 TI-VCT there are no aftermarket throttle body's available which improve performance so i decided to modify a stock 45 mm throttle body to 50 mm. I bought a second hand stock throtlle body and dismantled it completely.


Next I machined it to 50 mm.


I mounted a custom made 50 mm throttle plate


Afterwards I have rebuild the throttle body completely with new bearings.


Because I bought the throttle body for little money and did all the modifications (including the machining of the throttle body) myself the costs were under €50,-.

With this modification the engine runs much smoother and accelerates much faster than before. At the moment my car has got over 115 BHP (measured on a dyno). In a couple of months I am going to install a custom build stainless steel exhaust system and finish with a custom remap.

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i quite like it to be honest it overtakes very easily without dropping gears if you were to use the revs ive seen 4th gear 90mph at 5k revs with plenty more to use the sound you refer to may be a vacum leak from a split hose etc i dont have it on other cars in the past there was a split pipe somewhere causing it usually

i see what you mean wit the throttle body truth is the ti vct is so complicated ive no intention of faffing around with it ive got kids in the back most of the time anyway

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  • 2 weeks later...

Seen this the other day not sure if its worth £229 and the potentional hassle as artscot says where the Ti-Vct complexity is involved in regards to premature wear etc.


I could not seem to find the Bluefin remap for your car

Its only a noticable power increase above 5k, (under 5k the gains are insignificant) and the remapped engine really needs to be revved to 6.5k to be an improvement over stock,

It is expensive but perhaps in conjunction with a higher- flow air filter (and some other things) would give you a bit more power if thats what you want

As long as you keep changing the oil/ filter regularily the engine should be ok, ive been tuning engines for years and often its an old wives tale that a tuned motor will not last as long as a stock one (sometimes the reverse is true- because a tuned motor may not have to be pushed so hard as a stock one - especially realatively underpowered ones)

If the worst comes to the worst and you blow your engine to bits - thats good because then you can justify a 2.0L or st :lol: ,

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Remaps for that little gain at that price IMHO are not really worth the hassle, unless you are going to tweak the rest of the car, including exhaust, intake, etc

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Yeah i agree with the majority of opinions its not really worth it when you look at price vs power gain! Id be better saving for the 180bhp zetec s mk3! But interesting all the same!

Thats probably a stock reading vs bluefin remap with the car kitted out with exhaust and intake mods lol

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  • 1 month later...

you can trust, but:

- I don't have ti-vct, but only casual 1.6 100, but I doubt that variable cam timing could affected by bigger throttle

- As far as I know, engines 1.25, 1.4 and 1.6 has exactly the same throttle body - I can't believe that 45mm diameter is equally suitable for all of then (1.6 needs 28% more air then 1.25). With 50mm throttle, my 1.6 engine can breath easier and better

- It's quite common to install bigger throttle body (55mm -> 60mm) in 1.8/2.0 Duratec engines and I haven't heard about any expensive repairs caused by such mod

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