Design Height And Rear Anti-Roll Bar.

[philp1863]

I have a 2001 Ford Focus. Unfortunately it failed its MOT last week. One of the problems was a rear coil spring needed replacing. I've already replaced the front springs and thought that the rear ones would probably be easier. I tried following my Haynes manual which to be honest was not very helpful (I think that it was probably the first version). It turned into a little bit of a nightmare. My coil compression tool would not work (not enough room). You probably need to buy special compression tools to get on the springs? Anyway this did not daunt me as my Haynes manual confidently told me to remove the lower wishbone arm...of course you have to first remove the anti-roll bar (I think thats what it called). I discovered that the bolts on the wishbone were solid inside the grommets, I had to cut them out...took me ages!!!! I then bought a new wishbone and fitted all back together. Its now passed the MOT. :D

However the manual I have got was not very helpful. I set the design height with the spring removed and tightened up the top bolt of the wishbone. However I did not have the anti-roll bar fitted...I would not be able to get the spring in with the anti-roll bar in place; as my compression tools would not work.

I think that the anti-roll bar is probably not now tensioned correctly? For a 2001 Ford Focus it seems to drive well, but should I be worrying about this design height setting? Could it be dangerous? Might it cause the rear tires to wear badly? Should I look into buying some spring compression tools that will do the job and redoing the design height, or should I just be happy that the car has passed its MOT and move on?

Thanks for reading this

[artscot79]

well did you replace both springs if not youll get handling issues from the rear end as now the rear springs are damping at different rates and responding differently also any disturbance of the wishbone requires a 4 wheel alignment i had one spring done on the old mk1 on the rear and the rear end was all over the place on twisty roads not very pleasent at all had the other done and alignment all was fine what the manual doesnt tell you is to do that job you have to drop the rear subframe not do it the way they state dropping the subframe would mean you would have simply had direct access to the spring and could pull it out with youre hand replace then set the subframe back into place

[stef123]

Having the subframe out doesn't make changing the springs any easier but when the bolts are seized it can sometimes be the only way as you need to start cutting - been there and got that t shirt and would rather dodge it next time.

As already said though, changing both springs is the recommended procedure and personally I wouldn't just change one.

IIRC setting the anti roll bar involved using a metal spacer...? I have never bothered with this and can't remember what's involved

[philp1863]

Hi guys

First of all I would like to say a big thank you for responding to my query!!! :D

In my case I have only replaced the one spring and it has passed the MOT. Up to now I have not noticed any change in the driving of the car. I tend to drive it fairly carefully anyway, but it seems no different then before the spring was changed. Having said that I am off to York this week and will be coming back with lots of gear in the boot...and so I will certainly look out for any changes in the road handling. If I notice anything very different I will change the other spring too!! When I changed the wishbone I did set the height using a bar that I made up. But of course that was before I put the anti-roll bar back on...you probably should do that after!!! Anyway I shall see how it goes!!!!

If I find that it drives badly back from York I will change the other spring and update the forum.

The old Escort was so much easier!!!!!!

Thanks again for your help