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Reverse Light Not Working/gearbox Problem?

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HI, I have recently had a new clutch & master slave cylinder fitted. Noticed the other day that my reverse light is not working as my parking sensor did not go off when reverse was selected. I have checked the wires and there is no power going to them at any time even when the car is in reverse.

I have checked the fuse under the glovebox and that was fine. I naturally assumed it was the reverse sensor located on the gearbox so I fetched one of these to day and replaced it. The only problem is I still don't have power to the back of the car. I crossed over the feeds on the clip to the reverse sensor and it was both sides indicating no problem there, yet I still cant get it to work.

Any suggestions please?

Solved by markw96



I check the wire to the gear box hasn't been broken with the weight of the box on it

  • Author

what would be the best way to get to it? where does it run? and thanks

from the loom in engine bay down to the gear box if it been broken you

would be able to see it. Check its might pay to check it with a test meter

take a look in Haynes manual for wiring diagrams

You will get better access if you remove the air filter housing.

  • Author

I've ready had the air filter housing out to change the sensor, the wire looked fine from what I could see and there was power to it because I tested it. Where else can I look?

Was the switch a new one?

Is the plug connected firmly and free of corrosion?

The plug is pretty exposed and can get corrosion on the contacts quite easily.

  • Author

Yeh the switch was new direct from fords, the plug also looked fine. I tested one side of the plug for power and it was live, so I ran some wire from one side to the other to complete the circuit and they both came up as live. Yet their is still no power going to the rear, I can't work it out myself! :(

the wire from the reverse switch will go through the multifunction control module before it gets to the lamps.

i would try breaking into the wire with a 12v feed as far back from the connection to the switch as you can go, quite often find if their is a break in that wire its as it enters the connecting plug.

if that doesnt work, if you can tell me exact model, ie engine code..or wether the car has auto lighting or discharge lights or standard system, i'll try and trace the wire in the diagram

  • Author

Its a 2008 1.6 tdci titanium, auto lights and thanks

why not take it back to who did the clutch and get them to fix it since its there mistake

would be the simple answer if problem has been there since clutch job

if not.

green/ white wire for power to switch

green/black to lights

from the switch this wire (green/black) goes to fascia fuse box...gets difficult to follow without the car in front of me, but as i understand it its terminal 25 of block D connector to fuse box

this then has an internal connection that exits the fuse box at terminal 1 of block F connector and can either be green/black or green/orange

this wire then goes directly to rear lights, there is a connection just before the rear lamp but unclear where this is...this connector may be close to rear right lamp which then turns wire to green/orange if wire was green/black before..connects to right hand bulb and bridged to left hand bulb ...(this maybe in reverse order, so connector behind left lamp and bridged to right)

  • Author

What damage could they of done since the clutch job? what should I check for?

if they forgot to disconnect switch before dropping the box, can stretch and break the wire...which is why i suggested breaking into the wire as far back from the switch as you can and put a 12v feed to it to see if that operates the lights...another way of doing it is as follows.

youve confirmed you have a 12v feed to switch, so to start with, disconnect the plug, put 12v jumper lead to one side of switch, select reverse with ignition on and check you have 12v coming out of other side.

yes, switch ok, then next step

no, either switch faulty or box not disengaging the switch...remove switch and test again on the bench to work out which.

reconnect switch, use a pin to pierce wire close to switch, check for 12v

yes, connection ok...go to next step

no, connection bad, either repair connector or replace or cut off and fit individual terminals

find the connection as it enters the fuse box...check for 12v...

yes, all ok, go to next step

no, broken wire, work your way through the wire from fuse box to switch, with the pin till you find the break and bridge a repair wire

find the connection that exits the fuse box, check for 12v

yes, go to next step

no, break or bad connection in box...as this wire doesnt actually go to a fuse you can bridge a repair between the wires and by-pass the box all together....according to the wiring diagram, the wire connects to multifunction module, but the join between the entrance/exit wire is before the multifunction..so in other words, as you dont appear to have any other problems showing, would pay to leave the entrance wire in place and splice into it rather than cut.

check for 12v on rear lamps.

yes, lamp connection/bulb/earth problem

no...work your way back from the lamp to fuse box to find break in wire and bridge repair.

  • Author
  • Solution

Finally got it fixed today. I went to a garage and they found the fault after nearly 2 hours. The problem was a loose connector apparently that plugs into the ecu by the passenger wing.

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