Hi guys.

Looking for some advice please.

I have posted before on this under the topic of my diesel sounding like a tractor but my issue has not gone away, in fact, its getting worse! :(

The engine is incredibly noisey now under any sort of load (even toucing the throttle pedal creates this racket).

I can only describe the noise as loud tappets on a petrol engine.

Ive been doing some reading and I think one or more of my injectors are playing up but is the above a symptom of that?

I recently blanked my egr which made no noticeable difference at all FYI.

Im booked in to have my DPF removed with remap and egr delete but I am concerned that if i go ahead with it with my engine running the way it is, the remap may damage the engine.

Im sure any of you would not send a car you thought was sick to a remapper!

Will the remapper be able to tell if it is a sick engine before he does anything to it?

Would he inform me if there was an issue??

I have zero pull down low until the turbo kicks in around 1500rpm.

Thing is, ive had the car 6 months now and it definately did not sound like this when i bought it!

The smoothness and quiet engine sold it for me so why has it changed into a lemon??

Im aware that cold weather is a factor in engine noise but it has been quite mild for winter really.

Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Mike.

U do injector leak off test

Is that something i can do myself or is a garage job??

If u have equipment it easy enough

Will look into that....

Just seen a kit on e-bay for 19.99.

Will do a bit of digging on this.

It may not be the injectors but its the only thing that makes sense?

Leak off will clear it up could need them reconditioned

Hi to all

My wagon also has symptoms like "exponential's"

I have a Focus C-Max with the 1.6 TDCI 110BHP engine which also has a "tappet" like noise at around 2800 RPM upwards and is not so good from stationary unless you hold the revs in the turbo range. I've owned it now nearly a year and it has always been like it.

Many thanks for any help

Regards

Mark

Hi to all

My wagon also has symptoms like "exponential's"

I have a Focus C-Max with the 1.6 TDCI 110BHP engine which also has a "tappet" like noise at around 2800 RPM upwards and is not so good from stationary unless you hold the revs in the turbo range. I've owned it now nearly a year and it has always been like it.

Many thanks for any help

Regards

Mark

Hi Mark.

I have decided to get my engine flushed.

New oil (castrol gtx magnatec fully synthetic 5w30) and filter.

Ive had mine for 6 months and was told it had been serviced with oil change etc etc when I bought it.

My mechanic friend said that they most likely didn't do it as no reciepts etc were provided.

The "tappet" noise for me is as soon as I tap the accelerator and its embarrassingly loud!

Hope the engine flush helps???

Hey Exponential

Mine was meant to have had an oil change before I collected it but I'm not sure it's had one either as I have no proof.

Maybe I should look into changing my oil as a starting point?

Mark

Hey Exponential

Mine was meant to have had an oil change before I collected it but I'm not sure it's had one either as I have no proof.

Maybe I should look into changing my oil as a starting point?

Mark

Well it can't do any harm can it!

I mean, if my car hasn't been serviced as they said it had then that means that it hasn't had an oil/filter change for over 20k miles.

Come to mention it, I checked the oil not long after I got the car and it was jet black. If it had been recently changed it would/should be clear!

I've read on here that to keep your engine running nice and smooth, it is advisable to change it every 6k miles or so.

I have also learned on this forum that you should never fill oil on a diesel to the "max" level when changing it.

You should fill it to around 3 quarters I am led to believe.

I have arranged with my mate to have it done.

Will put a can of engine flush in then go for a good drive to get the engine to temp then bring it down to him to have it done.

Apparently, the engine flush treatment helps "soften" the oil so you get more of it out when changing it....

Well it can't do any harm can it!

I mean, if my car hasn't been serviced as they said it had then that means that it hasn't had an oil/filter change for over 20k miles.

Come to mention it, I checked the oil not long after I got the car and it was jet black. If it had been recently changed it would/should be clear!

I've read on here that to keep your engine running nice and smooth, it is advisable to change it every 6k miles or so.

I have also learned on this forum that you should never fill oil on a diesel to the "max" level when changing it.

You should fill it to around 3 quarters I am led to believe.

I have arranged with my mate to have it done.

Will put a can of engine flush in then go for a good drive to get the engine to temp then bring it down to him to have it done.

Apparently, the engine flush treatment helps "soften" the oil so you get more of it out when changing it....

Firstly, new oil in a diesel engine will turn black within a few miles of it being changed.

As for 6k oil changes, I don't think that's a bad thing, especially if you do mostly short journeys. Having said that, I've had my current Focus 2.0 TDCi from new and stuck to the 12.5k oil changes and its now at 125,000 miles with no problems. I do mainly longer trips (30+ miles) in mine.

Filling the oil only to 3/4? I've never heard of that before and I've owned 3 diesels and covered almost 300k miles in them total. As for flushing oil...... I don't really get that. It was a must in the 80's and 90's when black sludge was a big problem in engines but with modern engine design and modern synthetic based oils, this should not be a problem anymore. I think its driven by the flush manufacturers. If you do use it, read the instructions carefully. Normally, only 15 minutes at idle is called for. Personally, I would save my money and use good quality engine oil and increased intervals if you feel the need.

Personally I would avoid using engine flush. When an engine is drained not all the oil is recovered. Some remains in oil galleries etc.This is why in the service manual there are different quantities quoted for filling a dry engine compared with refilling after an oil change. This is part of the reason new oil turns black so quickly and means that some of the flush will be left behind and dwindling traces will remain for several oil changes thereafter.

Firstly, new oil in a diesel engine will turn black within a few miles of it being changed.

As for 6k oil changes, I don't think that's a bad thing, especially if you do mostly short journeys. Having said that, I've had my current Focus 2.0 TDCi from new and stuck to the 12.5k oil changes and its now at 125,000 miles with no problems. I do mainly longer trips (30+ miles) in mine.

Filling the oil only to 3/4? I've never heard of that before and I've owned 3 diesels and covered almost 300k miles in them total. As for flushing oil...... I don't really get that. It was a must in the 80's and 90's when black sludge was a big problem in engines but with modern engine design and modern synthetic based oils, this should not be a problem anymore. I think its driven by the flush manufacturers. If you do use it, read the instructions carefully. Normally, only 15 minutes at idle is called for. Personally, I would save my money and use good quality engine oil and increased intervals if you feel the need.

Really? The oil would turn black that quickly??

Thats why I was going for the engine flush because I imagined it was some magical ingredient that cleaned out your engine internals whilst allowing for more of the old oil to be removed before the new is introduced.

Just goes to show that clever marketing does convince car owners that it is "must use" product I guess....

What oil do you use? Would you recommend Castrol GTX Magnatec?

Personally I would avoid using engine flush. When an engine is drained not all the oil is recovered. Some remains in oil galleries etc.This is why in the service manual there are different quantities quoted for filling a dry engine compared with refilling after an oil change. This is part of the reason new oil turns black so quickly and means that some of the flush will be left behind and dwindling traces will remain for several oil changes thereafter.

I honestly didn't realise that there would be pockets of the old oil left.... shows how much I know! :D

Thanks for the rapid responses guys

In which case I will go for an oil and filter change first before looking into diesel leak off testing etc

Many thanks for you advice everyone it's much appreciated :)

Mark

Really? The oil would turn black that quickly??

Thats why I was going for the engine flush because I imagined it was some magical ingredient that cleaned out your engine internals whilst allowing for more of the old oil to be removed before the new is introduced.

Just goes to show that clever marketing does convince car owners that it is "must use" product I guess....

What oil do you use? Would you recommend Castrol GTX Magnatec?

You need to use a 5w-30 oil. I think you need an ACEA A1 spec oil but please check your handbook to confirm. The specs are more important than the brand but I would stick to names you know to ensure that what's in the bottle is the same as what's on the label so that means Mobil, Castrol, Shell, Fuchs, Millers, Valvoline, Halfords etc. In fact, if you hurry, Halfords are doing all their 4l oils for £10 at the moment. You will probably need to buy qty 2 for your oil change but you will have about 3l left for top ups. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_1009580_langId_-1_categoryId_165581

Personally, I always use genuine Ford Oil filters.