About 7 miles off home i was cruising along and felt an intermittent brief loss of power a few times. At first i thought it was a strong headwind affecting the car but it wasnt. Over the next few miles heading home it got worse and i struggled to get the speed up on the 60mph A road.

I limped it into the local garage who put it on a diagnostic machine and got no codes. While i waited for a fuel filter to be delivered i took the car on a run for a few miles. On the way back to the garage i got a EAC FAIL message on the dash where the clock is.

Back on the machine we got the above codes which relate to Fuel Pressure Regulator Control and Fuel Volume Regulator Control.

Prior to this morning i had never had this issue. Recently i have been having a couple of fuses blow (dash lights/liscence plate lights) but thats all. Any thoughts?

Changed Fuel Filter and still same............

Wats ur car engine an year

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Its a 2004 1.4 tdci, done 140K

Never had a problem like this before. EAC FAIL didnt come on for the first 7 miles or so, it was only when doing a bit of a run around while waiting for the fuel filter to be delivered. EAC FAIL doesnt constantly stay on, just on and off.

Still getting same codes and problem after fitting new fuel filter

Right have u access to diagnostics u need check wat fuel pressure is sensor could be faulty or ur imv valve on back pump could be gone is ur old filter metal did u cut open check for signs of metal particles in it

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I don't have access to diagnostics, taking it back in tomorrow to my normal guy. I had the filter changed at the garage and he didn't say anything to me about any metal in it, then again he didn't say anything about checking it at all.

Baring in mind the possible things that could be wrong what do you reckon to me taking it on a steady 17 mile trip into the other garage tomorrow (I live in a rural area so nothing's nearby).

Hypothetically, if I was needing a Fuel pump what else what need changing/be advisable to change art the same time. Really hoping it didn't come to that obviously - would love to be fortunate enough for it to be a faulty sensor

Is it constant limp mode fuel filter would be first place to start never overlook the basics so he was right start there then take fuel same see condition of it if just hope for ur sake it's fuel pressure sensor on rail if it's imv valve don't think u can buy separate from pump so it be new fuel pump very expensive

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What do you reckon to me making that journey into the garage tomorrow? Risk of making things worse?

Also, how many hours work involved in replacing pump?

If u have to drive it do it have u roadside assistance what's car diving like u take timing belt off to do pump so could take 3 to 6 hours depends what garage u bringin it to but they will need proper equipment to diagnose problem not just reading a fault code fuel pressure must be checked an fuel sample

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Yeah, got breakdown cover.

The mechanic was going to give it the once over before taking up to the Auto electrician that apparently even the local Ford dealership use for diagnostics.

By the way - thanks for all your comments!

Ford have there own engineers they send out if there's a problem which can't be solved so I very much doubt he does work for them an auto electrician is not needed to diagnose ur problem yet few simple tests would tell u if pump gone will u car not rev over 3000 rpm does it cut out at all wats it driving like

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It doesn't cut out at all as in it doesn't need to be restarted with the key. She starts up fine too. Standing still you can rev beyond 3000, I am not sure about when driving as I've been playing it careful when I've had to move it.

I have to gingerly press the accelerator when driving, as soon as I give it too much power then there's nothing there so I come back off the power and give it some slowly to be able to pick the speed up. It does it through all the gears.

As I just hold it at a speed with my foot slightly down then you can hear an engine noise as if it's giving it fuel, then not, then back again

Definitely sounds like pump on back of pump u have imv valve this sucks fuel from tank there no fuel pump in tank an not 100% but I thing regulater built into pump so if ur imv valve is gone it won't be able to suck enough fuel in quick enough to pump so that be why power drastically reduced

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Ok, thanks for all your thoughts on this. I'm obviously hoping it turns out to not be the pump but I'm staying realistic. I'll be back on here tomorrow night to say what has been said.

Took it in today and they cant look at it until tomorrow morning as they were inundated with call-outs for breakdowns. The guy did have a stab after taking it out for a 2 minute run and suggested it was best to try the filter first (which i'd had done yesterday), then he suggested "fuel pressure regulator" and said i have two on my car (dont quote me, i may be wrong). He also obviously mentioned the fuel pump.

On the 17 mile run into town i just gave the accelerator a light-feather touch to get there. I got up to 60mph on the straights, but as soon as i had to drop down into 3rd/4th for a bend it didnt like me accelerating out, even though i was being very careful. It would hold the power back, nothing there, and then kinda give it and i'd be ok as long as i was careful picking up some speed. The EAC FAIL came on a few times - not constantly on.

Also i rung the mechanic at the other garage to ask him if he'd seen metal parts in the fuel filter when he took it off. He said not, that there had been some water and gunk, but he also said he'd not cut it open to look inside (would that have not made sense to anyone properly attempting to diagnose the problem for me????)

So, now i am just waiting for tomorrow morning when its going to go on their 'all singing and dancing' diagnostic set-up

Keep us informed I think u need pump u can't change fuel metering valve or pressure regulator on u car new pump needed if either goes

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More on this story tomorrow.............i think they have been really pulled out with work today as i was told 'they need to give a further look at it'. That either means it isnt straightforward and they genuinely do or it means they given my car a quick 'doing over' in order to say to me after 2 days that they have actually done something.

I didnt get to speak to the mechanic himself but i managed to hear something about 'pipes', 'wiring' and i think 'fuel treatment' through the awful signal we get in the sticks here.

I was listening intently for the words 'pump' and 'engine ruined' but i dont believe i heard the words.....today anyway.

More on this tomorrow after my normal mechanic pops up to this mechanic later today for the lowdown............

Fingers crossed for u mate

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Hello.

Has this issue been resolved? What was the cause of these two errors?

1 hour ago, Alex984 said:

Has this issue been resolved?

No. 

The OP has just put up with the problem for the last 10 years 😂

I had a similar issue on a 2004 2.0TDCi.
Problem began with longer than usual crank to start from cold, which got worse over time, finally ended with a successful start but really lumpy idle and no throttle.

Battery, EGR valve & glow plugs less than 12 months old. 

The fault code logged was  
===PCM DTC P0092-61===
Code: P0092 - Fuel Pressure Control Valve Circuit High

Resolved by replacing the fuel pressure control valve that was sticking when cold.
Located on the bottom of the fuel pump (See pic).
Remove Airbox & Battery box to get access. 

Cleared the fault code and starts better now.