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Mondeo Tddi White Smoke But No Power Loss


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Hi got a 51 plate mondeo estate tddi iv started getting white smoke and sort of buring ruber/oil smell when warm after 15 mins ish but but no loss of power or anything else different??? Seen a lot about fule pump but thats with power loss so need help? Thanks

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Keep an eye on the coolant level in the expansion tank (remember it goes up and down a little from cool/ hot- hence expansion tank)

The head gasket is quite tough on the mk3 (Mondeo diesel) if its losing coolant, its more likely to be a split in the EGR cooler (another reason to do a total EGR delete)

let us know if the coolant level is gong down (without any obvious leaks) and take it from there

(Modern pump) Diesel contains 5 to 7 percent veg oil and can produce white smoke in some circumsstances so im always careful about jumping to conclusions without mor data/ information / (eg like the coolant level going down)

If you fit a solid EGR blanking plate, (if not already fitted) and change the fuel filter and air filter (if not done in the last 6months/ 6k) that may help and is good practice anyway

Edit / typo (new computer)

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Still cant find the problem! Coolant level is not going down so guess that's good!

Ordered a new fuel filter and air filter so will do at the weekend!

What is the solid EGR blanking plate all about?

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Its basically a way to ignore the european cack!

If you know anything about the EGR, then it basically blocks it off, if you dont know anything about it, its a useless system that recirculates exhaust gas from the cumbustion chamber, and reinjects the old exhaust gas along with new air into the engine. Apparently it reduces emissions, reduces poisonous Nitrous Oxide and apparently will save the world and stop engines killing our goldfish.

In real life, its just another obstacle in the cars attempts to work efficiently, and can often get stuck, or malfunction, resulting in costly bills, limp home mode, and the cliche garage mechanic sucking in his breathe and telling you that the car is dead and you need to buy a new one, or replace the entire system or EGR valve, when really all it needs is a bit of TLC, cleaning, and a fraction of the cost they convince you to pay.

The EGR valve blanking plate, sits between the engine block and the EGR valve. It basically stops the exhaust gas entering this system, stops the EGR system recycling the used air and amongst other things improves MPG, reduces lag and turbo flatspots, helps the turbo spool more quickly and thus increases the power a little. I did it on my CMAX a year ago and never looked back.

It reduced the smoke output, improved power, added about 5mpg and there was no more lag and flatspot and made a big difference to the car.

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Good Luck! the process is generally simple in concept but often the limited mobility in the engine bay can be the hardest part to overcome.

I would say though just pay careful attention on install to make sure you get the Engine and EGR sides the right way round and ensure that it seats fully! I recall one member who's mechanic part installed it, and it didnt seal, so the exhaust gas was leaking out, and amongst other things causing a very rough drive!

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Its basically a way to ignore the european cack!

If you know anything about the EGR, then it basically blocks it off, if you dont know anything about it, its a useless system that recirculates exhaust gas from the cumbustion chamber, and reinjects the old exhaust gas along with new air into the engine. Apparently it reduces emissions, reduces poisonous Nitrous Oxide and apparently will save the world and stop engines killing our goldfish.

In real life, its just another obstacle in the cars attempts to work efficiently, and can often get stuck, or malfunction, resulting in costly bills, limp home mode, and the cliche garage mechanic sucking in his breathe and telling you that the car is dead and you need to buy a new one, or replace the entire system or EGR valve, when really all it needs is a bit of TLC, cleaning, and a fraction of the cost they convince you to pay.

The EGR valve blanking plate, sits between the engine block and the EGR valve. It basically stops the exhaust gas entering this system, stops the EGR system recycling the used air and amongst other things improves MPG, reduces lag and turbo flatspots, helps the turbo spool more quickly and thus increases the power a little. I did it on my CMAX a year ago and never looked back.

It reduced the smoke output, improved power, added about 5mpg and there was no more lag and flatspot and made a big difference to the car.

Just to add to James's exellent post -

Solid plates are the thing to fit- plates with holes are literally a waste of time

You can fit a solid plate with no problems (eg- like the EML/ engine management light omming on) to Mondeo TDDI

A stainless steel plate is best, mild steel can rust (but OK at a pinch) alloy/ aluuminium can melt - on a TDDI with the rear mounted EGR valve the plate can be close to the heat from the exhaust - so best to avoid aluminium plates with this car

On Mondeos with a rear mounted EGR (the ones with front EGRs are different) The location of the EGR valve is at the end of the head (/near the airbox) just under the thermostat housing and the brake servo pump- you normally fit the plate between the EGR valve and the EGR pipe taking the hose off between the airbox and turbo cam make fitting the plate easier

Sorry i dont have pictures but i can't seem to get them to load

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Thats good then got a stainless steel one coming!

Any hope this will help with the smoke?

Yes, it may reduce the smpke, if it does not it can help you eliminate the EGR vave as the reason for the smoke, and on a TDDI, will not do any harm and can only help the engine

I cant remember if you said you had replaced your air filter and oil filter recently the air filter is easy to change (3 bolts), you can pick up a pattern one for under £5

After that the next thing is to clean out your inlet manifold (take it right off and clean it)

If it has done a very high milage it may be the bores are worn (overfilling the oil level can have similar symptoms)- i would keep checking the oil level/ keep it in the middle of the dipstick and fit a catchtank to the crankcase breather - when you change the oil (probably best to do it frequently - 6k) see if the smoke/ smell changes - even if the bores are worn the engine may continue to run for thousands of miles (just keep topping the oil up) - but it will smoke and burn oil (assuming that is the cause of the smoke) - when the oil consumption gets high it can get expensive - thats the time to switch to the cheapest oil you can find

if the injectors were leaking it would be more likely that the smoke occured when you 1st start it

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Changing the air and oil filter at the weekend plus putting in the egr plate!

Car has done 150k now!

How hard is the inlet manifold to take off?

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Changing the air and oil filter at the weekend plus putting in the egr plate!

Car has done 150k now!

How hard is the inlet manifold to take off?

Nice one!

The inlet manifold is quite easy to take off, you just undo the hose and loosten all the bolts - tis easy to get to at the front of the engine .

Cleaning it out can be a pain - you won't believe the gunge in it!- a member recommended soaking it in petrol overnight - i tried all sorts but i found a high pressure jetwash (with heat and soap if available) worked well for me

The manifold does not need a lot of torque with the rubber gaskets/ seals and if you torque them down too much you just squash or split the seals - i did not need to replace mine but some members said they needed to replace theirs (not sure if that was because they torqued them down too much)

Wait and see - it will probably run better too!

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Done the inlet manifold yesterday was a right mess it was but not blocked! Put the EGR plate and new air filter in not done the oil filter yet will do it and a oil change in a week or two!

But it still smokes when up to running temp is there anything else i can look at?

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Done the inlet manifold yesterday was a right mess it was but not blocked! Put the EGR plate and new air filter in not done the oil filter yet will do it and a oil change in a week or two!

But it still smokes when up to running temp is there anything else i can look at?

I already know it was not blocked - the engine would not run at all if the inlet manifold was completely blocked because the engine requires oxegen for combustion - the mess (carbon/ gunge in the manifold) can reduce the air entering the engine, (acting as a choke) this can richen the mixture, causing exessive smoke - a leaking boost hose can have a similar effect - though you are liable to have a loss in power

Is the engine running smoother/ pulling better- or just the same?

If its the injectors or pump it is expensive (typical prices are - pump is £700+ for a refurb, injectors are £150 each) if the bores/ pistons are gone, you are talking about an engine rebuild - an engine swap may be more cost- effective - the car may not be worth it (thats why i start with the lower-cost "fixes")

Carry on with what you are doing and see what happens with the oil/ filter change

is it using oil/ is the oil level going down?

If the car was in front of me i could tell in seconds what the smoke was by the smell etc - but i still dont know if its unburnt fuel, burning oil or something else,

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It dose seem to be running better bit more poke!

Im pretty sure it oil burning but nothing seems to be good down right now

There looks to be a bit off oil coming down from the top right side of the engine could cold the head gasket be making it smoke?

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It dose seem to be running better bit more poke!

Im pretty sure it oil burning but nothing seems to be good down right now

There looks to be a bit off oil coming down from the top right side of the engine could cold the head gasket be making it smoke?

If you could post some pictures (it is unlikeley to be the head gasket)

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Will try and up load some pics tomorrow!

Its a bit of a mess cos its gone on the belt on the right and been sprayed about!

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