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04 Fiesta Xl Eac Fail Help Needed


Sparky125
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hay guys would really appreciate any help with this problem so have had the car around 3 months
have noticed i have the eac fail i know this is a common fault but have not come around any information on it being inter-mitten on warm start up.

so car will start fine when cold but get the eac fail on dash when warm if left for around 10 min's to start to cool down will start up again.

not the best while in the petrol station.

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thanks for the reply have no codes coming up so would this be a corroded connector on somewhere along the wiring

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I personally have never come across this problem but from what I have read it is a corrosion problem but due to the sensitive signals repair is not allowed, I am sure as eggs are eggs someone will follow soon with more info :D

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thanks for the info much appreciated :)

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corrosion is one error, the other is a bad breather hose / pipe needs checking?

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This the hose that gose up to the air box ?

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think its around the engine, a seperate pipe?

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Can't get around te fact it only happens while the engines warm could this be Somthing els and the onbored computer is throwing up eac fail by mistake

On all the forums only ready that people have lost power while driving after knocking off the ignishion and back on been fine I have never had this problem myself

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if its the pressure it will increase and suffocate as the engine gets warm, I have seen many people refer to the breather hose as being replaced and resolving the issue. This is part of the systems means of operating and if its choked it does affect the acceleration system, less vacuum means the car is expecting more, gets less, and sees this as a problem. EAC is the Electronic Acceleration Control system, its not just one part, its about 3 different parts in one system and if any one of those is affected, it can show the full system as being affected,

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Problem I have is I tryed reading any code with a obd2 reader while I was getting the eac fail in the dash and no code's or errors come up

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depends on the code reader your using, if your using a generic or torque, it might only access one module, you realy need to have a look at other options for code reading.

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Replace the Throttle Body.

The ECU is trying to open the throttle valve and it knows its not opening, that's why it gives EAC fail.

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Right guys been doing some research and looks like accelerator pedal calibration could be out have looked around and can et them for around £25 would calibration be in the pedal itself or on the ecu

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If it is that it's a Calibration of the gem module I believe which controls the rest of the eac

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Just had my eac fail again noticed a loud ticking from the fuse box already replaced a fule pump and starter relay for original ford one's any idear if this is related also have done the ignition wire Loom upgrade to gold pins thinking of getting a new pedal as there only around £24 in beakers

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Dependant in which codes its the throttle body at fault. A later PCM calibration or a new PCM and throttle body.

Your thorttle posistion sensors will be reading false signals when there is a fault with the throttle body as it cant sense where your throttle is. It gives it a false signal to the PCM which then tells the throttle body where your foot it

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Ford OC mobile app

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Managed to get ahold of some software that was comparable with fords code run the test threw up a !Removed! load of battery codes and fule pump short fitted a new battery wiped the codes and has seemed to have sorted it even lost the fule pump short the same time

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Managed to get ahold of some software that was comparable with fords code run the test threw up a load of battery codes and fule pump short fitted a new battery wiped the codes and has seemed to have sorted it even lost the fule pump short the same time

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Swapped the battery seems to have fixed it ATM hopefully it was bad cells on the old 1 and not the altanator not recharging

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