Hello!

So, I was going to keep the Focus standard but that won't last haha! I can get a custom remap for a decent price from a mapper I've used before...and kinda tempted by a simple stage 1 tbh lol. ;)

I've flashed maps to various cars now, loads of DW10 HDis, VAG 1.9PDs and a few others, some my own and some for other people. Even did a college project on modifying a PD Golf a few years ago, so I'm certainly not new to mapping. But I am new to the DV6 engine!

I guess loads of you on here will have mapped 1.6s so I want your opinions! What is a 'safe' power limit? Don't want any smoke as I'll be keeping the DPF for now, and I don't want to cause noticeable extra wear to the DMF, fuel pump, injectors etc etc. But a small increase in power/torque and hopefully a little extra mpg would be good.

The mapper says 140bhp is possible but I've estimated around 130bhp would be fine and a bit safer, and without a torque spike so as to protect the clutch/DMF. Is that a 'normal' safe increase for these? Are there any common problems arising from remapping them? Reliability is paramount so I wont do it if its likely to cause issues!

Any help/info is appreciated.

Cheers

Tom

140 is indeed possible :) it does make first gear largely pointless, second is gone in a blink but 3rd you can put your foot down. Best thing ive noticed after mine was I can potter about at 30mph in 4th running at about 70 mpg. Im not an expert or anything but I reckon, even running with 140, its only gonna bugger things up if you nail it every time, take it easy on it and its fine.

Thanks Darren. :) Though you've had the DPF removed as well, which I don't want to do (yet lol...). Do you have exact figures/dyno graphs for yours at all?

Tbh, I don't really 'race' around, I tend to use more in-gear power (well, torque) for overtakes on the B road where I live and motorway overtakes in 5th. Tbh I was impressed by the standard 0-60 given the fairly poor power to weight, gear ratios seem to be well designed...but as above, I never really do that lol, and do feel it lacks a bit in gear.

70mpg at 30 would be great, I'd be hoping for a bit more at 60-70 as well hopefully.

I don't have anything other then what the guy told me after taking off their machine, its probably important to know I had the EGR, air filter and DPF done before I had it remapped. The only problem is taking off, I don't fancy putting too much strain on it and the change from 1st to 2nd is so quick I can see me buggering it right up if i pushed it too often.

Im not sure about gear ratios or anything but if I had to guess id say its not so good now in 1-2 and given the gearbox wasn't designed for that abuse I don't think id risk belting it all to often down low.

3-5 is great though, the boost gives you nice smooth acceleration right through, overtaking is improved, esp when cool but i think heatsoak is an issue on the intercooler on warm days or long runs now, theres a noticeable drop in boost performance when hot, but its still better then before, im going to put an oil catch can on the breather pipe, swap out the hoses and replace / clean the intercooler next to see if i can help it a bit.

but first things first, i need to check out the oil/turbo issue before i get too paranoid!

You shouldn't really be getting heatsoak issues tbh, I've run several 2.0 HDi90s (no intercooler as standard) at 120-135bhp with no noticeable heatsoak even on hot days. Unless you've got an open air filter now anyway? As that'll be sucking warm engine bay air in lol.

Sounds like a good idea to check the turbo before anything else though, that's probably the main thing I worry about on these lol!

There's definitely a noticeable link with boost loss an heat, but I agree it shouldn't , coolant temps are higher then 90, closer to 105 hot days gives me 105 on the line, this was before the remap as well. I'm going to tackle the breather first then give the intercooler a good clean, coolant was replaced not that long ago but I'm open to suggestions beyond that!

Oh an nope, its still using the airbox and snorkel thing :)

Does your dash gauge show 105c then? And do your engine fans stay running after switching the engine off?

My gauge shows 90 regardless (even during the regen stationary at 4k rpm for 5 minutes lol) so I'm gonna plug in a data logger today to see what the real temp is. Maybe the 1.6s do just run hotter than most engines. Reason I ask is my fans keep running on lol...

ha, yeah, it does that some times though I couldn't predict when it will, its definitely not every trip though.

ill log a long trip today and see what actual temps are, the readings I said before were from the dash so perhaps not accurate.

on a slightly related note, found that the breather pipe clip on the back was snapped on mine, allowing the hose to flex a little pulling the pipe out ever so slightly, possible location of oil appearing around the turbo inlet as it follows the pipe right down to it, something to keep an eye on, turbo paranoia is getting a little ridicules now

So, got home after about 40 mile trip...no fans on and actual temp 78c... Weird!

Been out again this evening.

The temp gauge is pointless lol.

The actual temp rose from about 40c, up to 80c then dropped down to a constant 77. I assume this is the stat opening, though it seems a bit cool to me.

Again no fans though, so I really don't know what to think about it lol!

mines actual readings are 85-107 settling around 90.

seems to be definitely hotter than yours, the dash readings are the same before the remap so its not related but as yours suggests its completely different to the dash reading,

any thoughts why the coolant might be running hotter here?

Well settling around 90 is what I'd expect tbh. Stat should open at 88c roughly.

I don't think it should be hitting 107 at all though, was that while driving normally, hard driving or stuck in traffic? Do your fans work? The high speed fan should be on by then tbh.

Also, was the 85c on a cold engine? Its possible that the sensor isn't working right I guess.

I'll keep an eye on the fan, pretty sure its ok, maybe find an air hose and blast the radiator for good measure, clear out some of the dead animals!

The dash display reads head temp as in the dash menu the gauge is coolant temp not engine temp as stated in the owners manual .when its cold the coolant is bypassed so it doesnt enter the radiator but through the head however if you have interior fans on this will effect it as its drawing heat away so its entirely possible in cold temps with cold air flowing through the radiator that the thermosta will open and close constantly so temps will vary from car to car simple way to prove it is enter the dash menu let the car idle with fan off then switch the fan on youll see the temp drop as the heats drawn into the heater

Lol, nice!

Shouldn't be any animals in there though, the fan is behind the rad....seems an odd idea to me as the fan gives a bit of protection from stones if its in front, the AC rad takes all the punishment on these lol.

Also, to test if the fan works, you can just switch the AC on, that should turn the fan on.

If you're particularly concerned about heat then try replacing the water/coolant mix with waterless coolant.

It's not cheap but as it doesn't boil like standard water/coolant mix you get more efficient cooling at higher temperatures.

The dash display reads head temp as in the dash menu the gauge is coolant temp not engine temp as stated in the owners manual .when its cold the coolant is bypassed so it doesnt enter the radiator but through the head however if you have interior fans on this will effect it as its drawing heat away so its entirely possible in cold temps with cold air flowing through the radiator that the thermosta will open and close constantly so temps will vary from car to car simple way to prove it is enter the dash menu let the car idle with fan off then switch the fan on youll see the temp drop as the heats drawn into the heater

Theres only one temp sensor on the 1.6TDCi, by the stat, and that's the one I'm reading with live diags through the OBD port. The dash gauge shows 90 all the time after warm up unless the ECU notices a problem (this is so you can see if theres a temp problem with a quick glance, but worries me more that it doesn't show the real temp lol).

There are factors that affect the coolant temp (mainly blowing cold air over the heater matrix as you say), but identical cars/engines should have the same stat opening temp, and the same fan trigger temp, so the coolant should remain at close to the ideal level regardless of what you do to it. I really don't see that 107c is a safe or normal temp myself.

The only thing I can think of that may be raising the cylinder temp on Darrens engine is the EGR blank. The EGR actually cools the cylinders at low load to reduce the level of NOx(cruising on the motorway for example) so without that there could be more engine heat which is obviously removed by the coolant...but with the stat open, airflow over the rad and the fans if necessary it should be able to still keep to around 90...

Anywho...back on topic... :P

I don't believe it's only Darren with a remapped 1.6 on here lol....anyone else any opinions on the safe power? :)

Umm, slightly embarrassing question....which ECU do we have? :D

Just been out to rip the file from it with the Galletto but theres a few ECU choices and I'm not sure which!

doesn't it autodetect it?

I think its a Bosch EDC16C3/C34 I'm very interested where your going with this, was looking at taking mine and tweaking it or at the very least backing it up!

No, it doesn't auto-detect on the Galletto, it may do on the other leads though (MPPS or KWP). When I started ripping and flashing maps the Galletto was the best clone tool about so that's what I use lol.

I can't 'tweak' maps unfortunately, I did download the software to do so but my head exploded trying to work it out haha. I happen to know a few good mappers through other forums though, so I rip the file, email to them, send them money and they send back the tuned file which I flash back on. If theres something I want tweaked I just ask them to tweak it and they'll send me an updated one FOC. :)

Need to know whether it's the C3 or C34 I think.

These are the options I have, it's gotta be one of the bottom 2...

your flashing by OBD? not sure how to be 100% on which one, might be worth the extra hassle to pull it out and take a look.

hmm, I wonder if ELM config can pull that info....

Nah it doesn't show on ELMConfig, already tried lol.

I haven't even looked for the ECU tbh, is it easy to see on these?

behind the nearside front wheel arch liner, ive not pulled it out to be honest, so not sure how hard it is to get to but by the sound of it, it should be pretty straight forward.

I was looking at getting an fgtech clone and a holder setup in case I bugger it up and need to directly re-flash .