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Door Panel And Door Steel Skins


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Hello there guys,

When the door card is removed im left with a steel skin before getting to the inside of the door.

There are afew bolts which need to be removed first. Iv got a annoying (small) rattle when bass kicks in. I shaked the car door and can hear alittle rattle near the locking mechanism. Problem im having is the window regulator and window.

Is the window on this steel skin part or on the main door? Will removing 3 bolts closest to the locking mechanism cause any problems?

I just want to reach my arm around and have a feel to see whats loose or dangling so I can try and prevent it from touching the door skin.

Need some help or advice before I start removing/loosening bolts which could cause the window to fall through.


Kind regards. Joe

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Once you've got the door pad off, the next panel is bolted/riveted to the door itself as you'll have seen. Behind this the glass moves up and down on the regulator cables and guided by the glass run seals attached to the door panels. If you look up the guide for fitting logo/puddle projector lamps this shows in great detail how to dismantle the whole door including removing the glass, door regulator and so on.

Tis a fairly major job depending on your abilities, as a starter you could maybe try drilling out the rivets for the door speaker first and seeing what you can find with that removed before trying the full monty. Course you'll need new rivets to refit the speaker but there's info on those in the topic also.

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Hello there fella. Thankyou for getting back intouch.

Iv already upgraded the front Speakers to some better components. Iv already drilled out the rivets and replaced it with facia and mdf rings.

Not sure if iv disturbed something. Cant say I heard this rattle before I upgraded the Speakers.

Could I undo the 3 bolt closes to the lock and see if it will come away alittle to reach my hand around?

Putting pressure on the plastic cards when bass kick in doesnt make the rattle go away unfortunately.

If I undo these bolts, will the window stay put?

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From what I can work out using Lenny's guide where the door is dismantled for fitting puddle lights, the metal plate is just that - it covers the rather big hole in the door shin which is needed to assemble the regulator and cables for operating the glass. I don't think just removing the 3 bolts near the lock will give you much access, plus if you try getting in through there you'll risk bending the panel causing it not to seal up against the skin properly.

You should be able to remove the whole panel to look in there further, with the glass staying in place - check out the guide to see exactly what needs removing to do this.

One last thing - I used to get a little tizz/ticking noise which I thought was the sunglasses holder but eventually traced to the drivers door near the switchpack. Found that the electrical plug going into the switchpack could rattle even with it fully latched in place. Bit of foam tape over it sorted the noise, think as version 2 I put some small strips of PVC tape on the side of the connector to make it a more snug fit into the switchpack. Worth looking at I'd say.

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Thankyou again troy45. You have been great!

Iv seen the 'how to guide' and was really looking into getting this metal skin off.

By the looks of it, it will mean I have to remove the glass first and then the other small rivets. This is something I will leave. If I mess it up, my wife will kick off because every car i get, i have to do something with it lol.

Its a small annoying rattle and its coming from the locking mechanism.

I pulled the foam tab away to see what my fingers can feel for. I dont want to risk not getting my window back on so unfortunately it will be something Il have to put up with.


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Glad it's helped by pointing you in the right direction.

Not 100% certain if the glass needs to come out first, in manufacture I'd expect the glass to go in first with the cover off otherwise it'd have to be fitted blind?

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