Terry M Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Hi everyone, Hope someone can help in guiding me how to remove the trim on my 2007 Ford smax tailgate. I need to replace the faulty release switch. I can not see any screws and a bit frightened of just pulling the trim. Cheers Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Give it a tug. Remove the centre trim , then the side trims , then give the panel a good tug, theres 14 pain in the !Removed! metel trim clips that hopefully stay on the panel. If not some will be on tail gate panel or worse fall into tailgate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregers Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 you sure its the switch? does it unlatch from the remote? if so then it may be frayed wires,i went through removing everything when mine went,and it turned out that even the newer fords still suffer from broken wires. there found in the left hand gator i added some wires and soldered etc job sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
747777 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Just to be absolutely sure, Terry, which 'fascia' trim are you referring to - the interior trim.... or the exterior trim strip where the switch is located (assuming it is removable like the chrome finished strip in the facelift). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry M Posted March 24, 2015 Author Share Posted March 24, 2015 Hi everyone, thak you for all the quick replies. The problem I have that is that I can only open the tailgate via the remote keyfob (pressing twice) The release switch does not appear to work. I don't know if it is the switch or the supply to the switch as when I looked at the rear fuse panel, it didn't bear any resemblance to the ilisting in the manual or like anything I could find on the internet. All the fuses visible are OK. I wanted to remove the large internal facia panel to check the supply at the switch. Ian, you say remove the center panel. It all appears to be one piece with just two small openings for access to the lights. Greg, the rubber conduit appears to be in good condition , but until I can measure the supply, I can't know if there is a break. Chris, I'm not sure which trim to remove. The interior does not appear to have any screws and the exterior has three torq on each edge of the tailgate and about five or six posidrive screws on the bottom edgel. The bottom edge screws just turn and don't seem to be doing anything. I thought it would be easier to view from inside as there is less chance on damaging paintwork. Thanks for your help so far. Cheers Terry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iantt Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 These are the trims I was refrring to, the large panel you want off is tucked underneath the side trims. but as others have said it is a known issue for wires to break inside the left convoluted rubber tube by hinge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
747777 Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 Yep, Terry, that would be the interior trim as in Ian's pic. The top horizontal trim (behind the high level brake light) needs to be pulled out first as it overlaps the 2 upper side trims. Then the side trims come off, followed by the largest lower main trim. As Ian says, all trims are held in place by clips, so you may want to ensure the parts aren't too cold and brittle before attempting to tug on them. Get them up to at least room temperature. Try to pull on the trims as squarely as practically possible to minimize the risk of lug breakage. The rear lights access cutouts (in the lower main trim) can be used as leverage points to your advantage. I have the facelift, and access to the switch is limited as it's secured to the bottom of the exterior chromed horizontal trim that's held in place by 4 nuts - and the access to these 4 nuts is fiddly, well at least in my car. So rather than going that route, I suggest inspecting the wiring exposed by the trim removal first. This would be a good time to pull back on the rubber loom gaiters to inspect wiring at their 'flex' points, as suggested by Gregers. If all is well - would I then attempt to gain access to the switch itself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregers Posted March 24, 2015 Share Posted March 24, 2015 ill bet 50p its broken wires in the gator,mine was exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry M Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks again everyone. I am going to wait a few weeks until it is warm, Thats my excuse anyway !! Thanks for the bet Greg. Unfortunately I'm in France so it will have to be 50 cents. Prehaps I should drink a bottle of red before attempting the trim removal. Will update everyone when I attempt the repair/investigation. Cheers Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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