Not quite that simple lol, doesn't matter how good the MPG is, a diesel will always chuck out particulates and NOx (far worse than CO2). But I agree, better MPG rather than chucking an EGR and DPF on would be a much better idea in the first place, have to blame the Euro regs for that lol.

The 2.0 TDCi is only 136bhp so you should be about the same with a remapped 1.6, when mine gets mapped I've been estimated 140bhp. :D

I have a fair bit of knowledge about DPFs and was still daft enough to buy one with one after buying diesels without DPFs for years lol. Problem is, I've done plenty of live tests now and in the real world can't seem to ever heat the DPF enough to regen passively regardless of how hard I push it. And it's active regens come at the worst times so are often not completed first time and are just wasting fuel anyway.

I'm not even sure the dealers understand exactly how the car should be driven as they give different advice and aren't willing to be too specific.

Unfortunately it's put me right off diesels with DPFs as well now, I'll also be going for a petrol next but aiming to keep this for another couple of years first....well that'd be about 8 DPF changes on my current rate so I'll be removing it when I can lol.

I think you are missing the point somehow buddy, you can't make the car heat the exhaust up to the temperature required to regen unless the required parameters are instructed to the ECU's. When they do a regen the glow plugs are used to help raise the exhaust temp along with altering the amount and timing of the injectors burning more fuel to also aid in heating the exhaust and on some models even have some form of electric heater to aid temps to do all of this, along with the Eoyls fluid on the earlier versions. Unless it needs to regen the temp will not got hot enough no matter how you drive it until a regen is required. That to me is totally normal behaviour for the system and how it designed to work.

Ever since I got mine I had issues with the glow plugs and they were changed, since then when it regens I go for a drive keeping it in lower gears keeping the revs high and it gets up to the required temperature whilst doing a regen. Mine has been relatively hassle free so far for the moment at least.

I had my dpf deleted from the ECU on Thursday I never bothered with the power remap , I filled up on Friday an headed down to milton keynes I averaged 65 mpg down there an that's with a full car an full boot , all in I covered 340 miles an used half a tank 😊 after having a land rover defender for 9 years I'm well chuffed

Im getting rid my my Focus diesel based on the DPF, ive had it 6 months and ive had issues with the DPF twice. Had to have 2 x forced regens.

I think you are missing the point somehow buddy, you can't make the car heat the exhaust up to the temperature required to regen unless the required parameters are instructed to the ECU's. When they do a regen the glow plugs are used to help raise the exhaust temp along with altering the amount and timing of the injectors burning more fuel to also aid in heating the exhaust and on some models even have some form of electric heater to aid temps to do all of this, along with the Eoyls fluid on the earlier versions. Unless it needs to regen the temp will not got hot enough no matter how you drive it until a regen is required. That to me is totally normal behaviour for the system and how it designed to work.

Ever since I got mine I had issues with the glow plugs and they were changed, since then when it regens I go for a drive keeping it in lower gears keeping the revs high and it gets up to the required temperature whilst doing a regen. Mine has been relatively hassle free so far for the moment at least.

I'm not missing the point, what you describe is an active regen. Which is supposed to be a last resort/failsafe! A car doing motorway miles should never need that in theory.

The point of an active regen is to burn all the soot as quickly as possible, so as you say there are a lot of things that make that happen, first the intercooler and EGR are closed off, then the timing is retarded and a post injection is added so its burning some in the exhaust rather than just the cylinder and the glowplugs are used at the same time as you say. Problem with this is it creates immense heat in the engine bay and will be cooking the oil in a few places (turbo pipes and sump!) and I believe wiring and battery will suffer as well long term. Plus the fact it's injecting more fuel than can be burnt so that often finds its way into the oil as well, particularly if you have to stop the engine mid-regen, and of course it's costing you more in fuel, and actually creating soot ironically lol.

The safer option is the passive regen. With the Eolys, you should be able to burn soot at about 400c, although obviously it'll take longer than at the 550c+ of the active regen. Plus you've got plenty of airflow through the bay as you'll be doing 70ish and not pumping extra fuel in to dilute the oil and reduce MPG. Now we're told that motorway driving will cause this sort of temperature...which it just doesn't!

So I'm also having to rely on the active regens now, but they're not good in real world situations either, seem to happen at the worst times so are often cut short. The whole system works well on paper, just not in the real world in my experience.