Oh definitely then it's ceramic type 100% you also have the benefit of less chance of turbo failure due to oil blockage as the feed pipe was redesigned. Overall like mine yours is less likely to have any problems unlike the earlier 1.6 tdci

Oh definitely then it's ceramic type 100% you also have the benefit of less chance of turbo failure due to oil blockage as the feed pipe was redesigned. Overall like mine yours is less likely to have any problems unlike the earlier 1.6 tdci

That's great news. I was reading up about the 1.6tdci a few months back and didn't realise it had a french engine in it, don't think I'd have brought it if I knew, and a lot of people say about turbo failure as well. But it's good to know that!

It was only the pre 59 that had turbo problems as much same with dpf. But 59 onwards are less prone. All in the same engine is fitted to ford peugeot volvo Citroën and others too

Main thing is blank egr and like clockwork change the oil and filter at half the recommended interval. And don't use cheap oil make sure it's low ash only. I change mine every 4k which is over kill really but I'd rather be safe than sorry

That's great news. I was reading up about the 1.6tdci a few months back and didn't realise it had a french engine in it, don't think I'd have brought it if I knew, and a lot of people say about turbo failure as well. But it's good to know that!

same here mate,

1.4TDCi 1.6TDCi and 2.0TDCi are Citröen Peugeot engines

a joint venture to lower emissions and keep garages busy when there not selling cars during global recession they would be kept busy with dpf and turbo changes.

Here's a 1.6TDCi Ford Focus with a Citröen 1.6HDi engine cover

The only Ford diesel is the 1.8TDCi has no dpf as Well

It's exspensive but I use total quartz ineo ecs 5w30 oil every time as it's what peugeot use when they built it so I know it's absolutely right. Eurocarparts regularly sell it at half price so keep an eye out and stock up

Oh and absolutely never ever do oil changes from the top by sucking the oil out. It leaves behind all the sludge in the sump and this will wreck your engine totally. Only ever drain oil from the sump and I personally flush a cheap oil through with sump plug out just to ensure all the crap is removed then refit sump plug and fill with total quartz it does sound extreme but I'm ocd lol

Oh and absolutely never ever do oil changes from the top by sucking the oil out. It leaves behind all the sludge in the sump and this will wreck your engine totally. Only ever drain oil from the sump and I personally flush a cheap oil through with sump plug out just to ensure all the crap is removed then refit sump plug and fill with total quartz it does sound extreme but I'm ocd lol

+1

The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado,

They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant:

Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing

Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation.

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature.

You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil.

This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves,

Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection.

I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine,

I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.

Nice one Lenny that's a great find. Will be using this on my next oil change ☺

Main thing is blank egr and like clockwork change the oil and filter at half the recommended interval. And don't use cheap oil make sure it's low ash only. I change mine every 4k which is over kill really but I'd rather be safe than sorry

Yep I already have the egr blanked!

same here mate,

1.4TDCi 1.6TDCi and 2.0TDCi are Citröen Peugeot engines

a joint venture to lower emissions and keep garages busy when there not selling cars during global recession they would be kept busy with dpf and turbo changes.

Here's a 1.6TDCi Ford Focus with a Citröen 1.6HDi engine cover

The only Ford diesel is the 1.8TDCi has no dpf as Well

I read that it was only the 1.6tdci that had the french engines and that the 2.0tdci was something else.

Haha of course they've gotta make money some how haha

Nice one Lenny that's a great find. Will be using this on my next oil change ☺

Cheers,

It's available from Xado in the UK as Well but considering the strength of the GBP against the Euro at present it's around 7GBP cheaper to purchase from Ireland

I also use this stuff in a tank of Diesel prior to having the fuel filter changed it flushes everything through to the old filter maximumising the results in changing filter.

Ok so here are both items listed from Xado Ireland

ATOMEX Multi Cleaner (Diesel Fuel Additive)

http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_reviews_info&products_id=26&reviews_id=6&zenid=bd3j6n7c2kn0j0cs378cor7ml7

ATOMEX Total Flush (Oil Additive)

http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

And here are exactly the same items listed on Xado uk website.

ATOMEX Multi Cleaner (Diesel Fuel Additive)

http://xadoshop.co.uk/epages/5d829417-ecfb-445f-9f29-660a191d9525.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectID=2857417

ATOMEX Total Flush (Oil Additive)

http://xadoshop.co.uk/epages/5d829417-ecfb-445f-9f29-660a191d9525.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectID=2859074

1 pound Sterling is worth around 1.70euro

If shipping from Ireland to Uk wasn't much then it would be cheaper.

It's exspensive but I use total quartz ineo ecs 5w30 oil every time as it's what peugeot use when they built it so I know it's absolutely right. Eurocarparts regularly sell it at half price so keep an eye out and stock up

Oh and absolutely never ever do oil changes from the top by sucking the oil out. It leaves behind all the sludge in the sump and this will wreck your engine totally. Only ever drain oil from the sump and I personally flush a cheap oil through with sump plug out just to ensure all the crap is removed then refit sump plug and fill with total quartz it does sound extreme but I'm ocd lol

I'll have a look at that oil then.

To be honest I have been having it services by a garage, only because if it comes to the time and I want to sell it then has full service history with it. I normally do the services myself but wanted to keep service history on this car.

Just check what oil they are using is low ash and that they drain the oil from the sump and not suck it through the dipstick otherwise you've been paying them for nothing and more harm than good has been done

+1

The best product on the market to flush out the carbon and other harmful deposits from your engine is from a company called Xado,

They manufacture an organic based engine flush product which also has some revitalizant:

Forms an anti-wear coating on friction parts immediately during oil system flushing

Creates reserve of anti-wear protection properties, prevents possible defects on friction surfaces during further engine operation.

Link: http://www.xadoireland.ie/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=10

This bottle gets poured in to the existing engine oil when the engine has been brought up to operating temperature.

You can then drive for a distance up to 20km/15miles prior to draining the oil.

This makes Total Flush from Xado an ideal product for those of us whom don't carry out oil changes ourselves,

Simply pour the bottle in to the engine prior to leaving your car in to the garage for a service gives great peace of mind and protection.

I've used this product a few times now myself on my 1.6TDCi engine,

I've noticed the engine idles quieter and drives smoother its definitely worth purchasing as part of the routine service on your vehicle.

I'll definitely be getting some of this for the next service then!

Just check what oil they are using is low ash and that they drain the oil from the sump and not suck it through the dipstick otherwise you've been paying them for nothing and more harm than good has been done

They have been using low ash oil and also they drain it from the bottom. It's a mate, he used to work for ford but has now got his own garage so servicing doesn't cost me that much!

Just check what oil they are using is low ash and that they drain the oil from the sump and not suck it through the dipstick otherwise you've been paying them for nothing and more harm than good has been done

Sucking out via filler cap doesn't remove all of this:

Sucking out via filler cap doesn't remove all of this:

Definitely don't want any of that left in the engine!!

As a thought if the dpf was removed on our cars ie ceramic dpf as there are no sensors would there be any need to get the ecu dpf delete then?

Definitely don't want any of that left in the engine!!

that's an excessive build up of carbon in a 1.6TDCi engine which had a blocked dpf and active EGR valve which slowly led to turbo failure.

The dog wasn't burning up the carbon or allowing it to pass through,

So the carbon got recirculated via the EGR valve back in to combustion where it contaminates the oil with excessive amounts of carbon.

this carbon gathered around the oil feed pipe which sucks oil up to the turbo.

the turbo run dry and pop.

Same carbon build up can occur when sucking oil out via the filler cap it's basically enriching a gathering of carbon deposits in the oil sump.

Dpf gutted, Ecu remapped, EGR blanked and engine flush used at oil change filling up with low ash oil as described above will give you a much happier engine.

25mm sealed oil catch tank will also keep your intercooler running efficiently instead of it acting as the oil catch tank as Well as an intercooler.

And finally a Green Cotton of K&N straight swap induction filter will help your mpg and almost eliminate turbo lag if fitting a K&N57s

All saves you a lot of money in the long run.

As a thought if the dpf was removed on our cars ie ceramic dpf as there are no sensors would there be any need to get the ecu dpf delete then?

my dpf was ceramic

I had it cut open on factory weld and removed,

There's no sensors atall but they still remapped the Ecuador to burn more effectively.

This still give me 35bhp more performance but lower emissions than a standard focus from the factory

Scribe lines in to the chamber base before cutting it open to ensure the elbow pipe lines up correctly when refitting.

Left the catalyst section in there to provide some baffle to the sound,

There's a cavity between dpf and catalyst separation in space.

Welded back up on factory joint and refitted looks like it was never touched.

check it out no smoke

https://youtu.be/9vSHRZzGSYY

that's an excessive build up of carbon in a 1.6TDCi engine which had a blocked dpf and active EGR valve which slowly led to turbo failure.

The dog wasn't burning up the carbon or allowing it to pass through,

So the carbon got recirculated via the EGR valve back in to combustion where it contaminates the oil with excessive amounts of carbon.

this carbon gathered around the oil feed pipe which sucks oil up to the turbo.

the turbo run dry and pop.

Same carbon build up can occur when sucking oil out via the filler cap it's basically enriching a gathering of carbon deposits in the oil sump.

Dpf gutted, Ecu remapped, EGR blanked and engine flush used at oil change filling up with low ash oil as described above will give you a much happier engine.

25mm sealed oil catch tank will also keep your intercooler running efficiently instead of it acting as the oil catch tank as Well as an intercooler.

And finally a Green Cotton of K&N straight swap induction filter will help your mpg and almost eliminate turbo lag if fitting a K&N57s

All saves you a lot of money in the long run.

Another reason go get the dpf gutted.

Was looking at a oil catch tank. Are they hard to fit?

Yeah I'm wanting to get the k&n57s but got to wait for some wages to come in first.

Yours still going well and you've still noticed the difference?

my dpf was ceramic

I had it cut open on factory weld and removed,

There's no sensors atall but they still remapped the Ecuador to burn more effectively.

This still give me 35bhp more performance but lower emissions than a standard focus from the factory

Scribe lines in to the chamber base before cutting it open to ensure the elbow pipe lines up correctly when refitting.

Left the catalyst section in there to provide some baffle to the sound,

There's a cavity between dpf and catalyst separation in space.

Welded back up on factory joint and refitted looks like it was never touched.

check it out no smoke

Great, will be getting it done soon hopefully when my mate has some spare time to do.

Looking forward to getting it done so I can start looking at getting it mapped

Another reason go get the dpf gutted.

Was looking at a oil catch tank. Are they hard to fit?

Yeah I'm wanting to get the k&n57s but got to wait for some wages to come in first.

Yours still going well and you've still noticed the difference?

see oil catch tank guide here:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/74245-guide-fitting-oil-catch-tank-16tdci-ford-focus-mk2-mk25/

Also the K&N57s is highly recommend mate it's like 3 times increase that egr blanking was