Quilpie

Focus 2.0 Tdci P2263 Fault Code

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The MIL light recently came on my 2008 Ford Focus 2.0 tdci. I used a ELM 327 OBDII interface (£10 from ebay) and app for the iPhone to read the fault codes which came back as "P2263 Turbocharger/Super Charge Boost System Performance" and a couple of others (see attached photo below)

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Fault code screen grab from the iPhone

I noticed the MIL light came on shortly after servicing the car but for some reason I was fairly certain it was just a coincidence. When driving the car it noticeably had less power and fuel economy had dropped down to 18 mpg (normally around 35mpg for city driving). Also the MAF was showing around 3lb/min on the OBD read out but they were all the symptoms I noticed.

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OBD values for various parameters (before fault was fixed)

I then read all available forums to find out what might have caused the fault could before attempting to fix it.

From what I read the possible causes for a P2263 fault code where:

  1. Stuck/ faulty turbo actuator
  2. ERG value stuck open
  3. Faulty MAF sensor
  4. Split inlet pipe between turbo and inlet manifold

The first thing I did was disconnect the MAF sensor, cleared the fault code and took it for a run. By disconnecting the MAF it makes the PCM use a default setting and if its the problem you should see the car run close to normal so I was expecting the power at least to return. After the run the car was still down on power and the MIL late came back on again a day later. Based on this I figured it was not the MAF sensor.

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MAF sensor location on the inlet manifold

Next thing I did was check for a split inlet pipe between the turbo (in behind the engine and very hard to get at) and the inlet manifold. I got the wife to rev the car between 2,000 -3,000 rpm while I inspected all the hoses on both sides of the inter-cooler. This required taking the splash guard off and getting underneath the vehicle as well as looking in from under the bonnet to check all pipes. I found nothing that suggested a split pipe. All pipes looked to be in good condition and I couldn't hear or feel air rushing out anywhere.

The next thing I did was inspect the EGR valve. It is not easily got to as it is behind at the back and on the right. You need to remove the plastic shroud that runs across the top at the base of the windscreen. You remove the wipers, pull off 6 clips, undo two screws and the whole thing comes off fairly easily. I took off the pipe that runs from the EGR to the inlet manifold to check the EGR function. It was very easy to do with a couple of 10 mm bolts holding on the pipe and a couple of clips. The EGR valve itself looks like it would be quite difficult to take off as some of the bolts holding it on are very hard to get at so I decided not to bother. Neither the pipe nor the EGR valve looked very caked up with soot which was surprising from all of the stories I have read and heard (the motor has done 85,000 miles). Both were relatively clean. On inspection I could see the EGR valve was closed so figured it couldn't be the problem. To be sure I got my wife to rev the car up a few times while inspecting and it open and shut as it is supposed to. It looked fine so I discounted it as the problem. While I had the pipe off I sprayed a bit of carb cleaner in and around the valve then I blanked it off with a blanking plate (£4 from ebay) and put it back together. (I have attached some photos of the EGR valve and pipe).

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EGR valve location and inlet manifold connecting pipe

Through the process of elimination I now only had the turbo left to inspect which I was dreading inspecting as it is so hard to get at as the turbo is low on the engine and right at the back. You can't even see it from the top from looking under the bonnet so you need to get down under the car to see it. I already had the splash guard off so I climbed underneath the car with a torch to inspect the turbo. (I have attached a few photos of the turbo itself and the actuator). Once again I got the wife to rev the car and realised the actuator was not working as nothing was moving. It has an electric wire plug which attached on top of the diaphragm which I figured was the sensor/actuator switch. There was also the diaphragm (vacuum operated) and a small vacuum pipe coming off it. The first thing I did was push the actuator gently a few times with a screw driver to see if it was stuck. It seem to move freely. I then suspected the vacuum hose that operates the diaphragm may have been split or had come off. I followed it back to a sort of union box that is located on the right of the engine at front between the airbox and engine. From there I followed it back to where it connects to the engine and gets it's vacuum which is a location on the right of the inlet manifold and is very close to the oil filter. On inspection I immediately found my problem. The pipe had come off the nipple causing the turbo actuator to get no vacuum. I must have knocked it off accidentally when replacing the oil filter during the service. I pushed it back on, cleared the engine fault codes and then started the car up. I immediately notice the intake manifold and MAF airflow readings where much higher.

Below are some photos of the turbo, diaphragm and actuator (it was hard to get a good photo)

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The vacuum hoses that operate the turbo actuator located under the inlet manifold and close to the oil filter

I put everything back together and then took the car for a drive on the motor way. I immediately noticed it's power was back and it was very responsive. I reset the mpg gauge and was immediately getting ~55mpg on the highway which is about average though it was a fairly short trip. I haven't checked city driving yet. So far it seems to be running how it should/ used to and I am very happy I diagnosed the fault and it only cost me a few hours of my time

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OBD values for various parameters (after fault was fixed)

The moral of the story is to be very careful when changing the oil filter on the 2.0 tdci duratorq motor as found on the Ford Focus and various other cars. You can easily knock off the vacuum hose that operates the turbo actuator and this will lead to the MIL light coming one due to a P2263 fault code.

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Great post - its refreshing to have a full description of the problem and the answer because someone has actually taken the time to work out what is happening and write it up so it can be useful to others. Makes a change to those who just ask a question and are never heard of again.

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Great post - its refreshing to have a full description of the problem and the answer because someone has actually taken the time to work out what is happening and write it up so it can be useful to others. Makes a change to those who just ask a question and are never heard of again.

Seconded...... thanks for the helpful post.

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EGR Valve blanking update:

I have done about 30 miles since blanking the EGR valve and the MIL light has come on. The OBD is showing the fault code P0490 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Control Circuit High.

A little bit about the fault code can be found here:

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0490

I have cleared the fault code for now and will wait and see what happens. If it comes back on I will try drilling a hole in the center of the blanking plate and see if that stops the problem

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I wouldn't bother drilling the hole I did it with mine and it made no difference so welded it back up I just learnt too live with the light on switching it off occasionally and it turns it off itself for a while sometimes.

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Whatever you do - do NOT put a hole in the blanking plate, as that defeats the whole point of blanking the EGRV

A blanked EGRV can illuminate the EML - it's normal on many cars, just read the code periodically, to make sure it's the ERGV issue & reset the code

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EGR Valve and Fault Code update:



The wife has been driving the Focus to and from work which is about a 6 mile run in London Traffic. The engine light came on again last night on her way home. Based on the advice above (thanks guys) I've decided not to drill a hole in the blanking plate as it was suggested it would not fix the problem.



The fault code/ engine light is something I'm going to have to live with I think.



Does anyone know of a way to stop this from happening? I'm going to try disconnecting the EGR valve solenoid plug but from what I have read that will throw up fault codes as well. A friend of mine has blanked the EGR valve on their Rangerover and had the PCM tweaked so it doesn't throw the EGR fault code. He got this done professionally but I don't know details. I have bought a TOAD software package and am going to have a play around with that and see what I can find. If I figure it out I will let you know.


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Good evening.

I have the exact same problem. And having read your post I thought hooray thank god. I don't have boost low end but if I Rev the !Removed! of it and hit 3k revs I can get 6 psi. With the pictures you posted about the pipes would you be able to post a picture from where those pipe start from.

I believe they go to a solenoid on the right side of the block, one pipe goes to i Believe the actuator and the other that comes round the front goes in to the vacuum box located on the front. I think mine is all messed up causing my problem.

Thanks

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Great post Quilpie. You just saved my ££££.

Had the same issue with my Mondeo 2007. AA came and told me that its the sensor as its not sending signal to actuator. I was about to order an actuator postiton sensor. Then upon further research found this.

So my car wasn't going to Limp mode. It was just lack in power and EML on with P2263. No Hose leak, Turbo was fine as per AA. Had recent servicing, EGR looks good. Now only thing left was the sensor or vanes jam, Then did a Revive turbo clean for carbon deposit removal from vanes. If I clear the code I get some power but the code comes back after 30-40 miles, and lack of power again. I also had somebody to hep me put a camera near actuator arm while I rev to see if the arm is moving. Found out it wasn't. So this directly points towards the actuator not working properly. Now it can either be the actuator is faulty or the sensor is bad. i had no clue about the vaccum pipe connection if I didn't read this post.

After reading this post, looked at the vaccum pipe connection and notices it was disconnected. Tracking the pipe leads to the one was disconnected. Now connected back the pipe and I can now hear the turbo noise while reving. Will take it for a ride to make sure EML not coming back. :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :) :)

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Hi supermaxer, the vacuum hose is located below and to the left of the inlet manifold and to the right of the oil filter. There is a photo of it in the original post toward the bottom.

ripz, that is great news. I'm glad the post was useful to someone!

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If you are getting an EGR error code,

You need to have the EGR system deleted from the cars software

Otherwise you will keep getting MIL problems

Jamie

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Fantastic post, thank you!!

 Had the car serviced and an MOT a few days ago ,  took it for a blast up the M27 to relatives in Portsmouth and the EML came on. Also noticed no turboboost. Called garage and said was probably due to stuff being blown out on the MOT, to clear the code and call back if it happened again. Well it did so I did a bit of research and found this here. Thinking as some of your members did as well, it was a coincidence that the turbo boost had gone after the service, I took it back to the garage and mentioned the vacuum pipes near the filter, Sure enough the Mechanic was under the bonnet less than a minute saying I was right and clipped it back on. I cleared the EML code and took it for another blast, this time with the EML staying off, and the smile back on my face.

So thanks again and I'll definately be using your site again.

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Alright, slightly confused here. The sensors you've pictured seem to be the MAP and IAT sensors, not the MAF sensor, which is just after the air box in the clean air inlet pipe to the turbo. -

Quote

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So, did you try disconnecting the MAP sensor pictured or the MAF? Spent a good hour trying to work this out as the haynes says it's the way I've described it but really isn't clear on the matter. In the end I looked up the model/serial number on the bigger of the two mounted sensors on the throttle body and found it was indeed a MAP.

Only other thing I'm suspect on is that when I did a vacuum test on the turbo actuator the actuator arm does move, but it immediately loses vacuum. Is it meant to be a sealed system, or is it meant to be constantly drawing vacuum? Or is the sensor on the turbo actuator supposed to control the vacuum and because I have the engine off it's just not closing the circuit?

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Had the same with my focus. Mechanic had knocked the pipe off at the actuator end. My SMax has the limp mode P2263 code and turned out to be sticking guide vanes in the turbo. Sorted that with Wynn’s Turbo Cleaner additive. Took 2 treatments but sorted it for around £15 (changed the fuel filter too). 

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