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Galaxy III Tailgate wont open


cjbford
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Galaxy III 2006 LHD boot will not open.  No noise from electric lock when trying handle or using fob to lock/unlock. There are no other problems with car.  I have tried pressing against the door to reduce load on lock mechanism while trying to open the boot - no luck.  The boot trim screws are only accessible when boot open.  Pried off top of trim in hopes of finding manual release but cannot reach inside.  In desperation I cut a small panel out behind the lock mechanism but nothing visible except 3 screws on back of lock.  Unscrewed  them, but the latch is closed (I assume) so door opened about 2 inches and will neither open further or close. .

Can anyone please help with a solution? 

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there is an emergency latch release hidden behind the plastic coverof the latch, you need a knife and cut a section out and peel it back to revel the access hole, then with a screwdriver you can rekease latch from catch.

after you release latch, you will need to check the wiring harness where is goes through rubber ribbed tube on the left of tailgate

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Thanks for the response.  Can you tell me where to cut?  I cut the inside door trim immediately behind the latch.  Underneath that is a sheet of felt/plastic and then the pressed steel of the inside of the door.  Is that where I should be looking for the access hole? Chris

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Still haven't managed to find the release.  I attach 2 pics to show the hole I cut at the base of the inside tailgate trim.  Onepic shows the bottom portion and the other the top with the wires to the release(?).   I managed to relocate the fitting on the base of the tailgate, held in place by the 3 screws visible.  I cannot find the release using the hole behind the wires so I assume my hole is in the wrong place. 

Can you give me a more specific description of where to cut the hole.  I don't understand from your advice where that should be.  Thanks, Chris

Slide1.JPG

Slide2.JPG

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iantt - thank you so much.  I was able to trip the door following your instructions.  My model may be slightly different to your description in that there is no slot, but the latch is just accessible at the very back (away from the door) of the metal.  I checked the wiring, there appears to be no damage.  There is only one fuse (FA5 in the rear fuse module identified in the owner's manual as 'Rear locking (without rear door modules)' but the slot is empty and I think has always been.  Anyway putting in a fuse has no effect.  

There does not appear to be any way of attaching a wire pull to the release but I will drill a small hole and attach a wire.

Now that the boot is open I see that there are no screws holding on the trim - at least on my model - so I assume just brute force and ignorance, for which I am well equipped, is all that's required.

So I think my next step will be to remove the trim and check the switch  - unless you can suggest anything else?

Thanks again.  Chris

 

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if it is the switch then it woulf open via the remote fob, if it doesnt then its more likely the latch assy at fault.

to remove the trim i think there is a screw in one of the grab sections of trim.

so you pulled both ends of the convoluted tube and checked wires both ends?

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, does the interior light come on now you have tailgate open? that will confirm if earth is ok, and if you have multimeter or test light check pin 1 on latch wiring for 12v operating remote fob and tailgate switch with latch in closed position.

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Yes, I checked both ends on both sets of cables.  With the plastic inserts where the cables go through the door it's difficult to see how the cables would get damaged - I did ease each end out gently to see if there was any damage further in. 

I don't understand what you mean '..should open by remote fob.'  I have tried pressing the boot button on the key and also unlocking by turning the key in the lock on the drivers door - the only external lock on my car. 

The interior light does come on when I open the door by tripping the latch.  I will try checking the voltage on the switch.  Pse excuse my ignorance but I assume you mean probe the switch pin with one probe shorting the other to earth from the inside of the car with the boot closed?  I will try this as soon as I find my multimeter - that maybe a long job/long story.

 

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i had a similar problem on my smax,turned out after i stripped everything and tested the lock switch,it was the wires in the right hand gator as you look at the hatch.

they were frayed/snapped,like on previous galaxys its a deliberate design fault to make the end user fork out more of there hard earned to get it fixed.

the wires have been strangled so with all the opening/closing the htch does eventually the wires cause problems,the same goes for the doors.

not saying this is your problem but do take a CLOSE look within the hatch gators.

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Mine is a LHD -that might make a difference.   The wires do look pristine, shiny (the covering!). I did check both sides but will check again to make sure.

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  • 1 year later...

Mine is exactly the same I've tried replacing the lock mech, still no joy. Going to try an chase the four black wires to the fuse box, test them at the start as I'm getting 3v from pot 1....

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Mine is exactly the same I've tried replacing the lock mech, still no joy. Going to try an chase the four black wires to the fuse box, test them at the start as I'm getting 3v from pot 1....

have you checked the tailgate wiring by the n/s tailgate hinge. had one yesterday with no o/s rear tail lights. went straight to rubber tubing and found tail light wiring melted to earth wiring and earth wiring chewed in half. other wires were damaged also.
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  • 1 year later...

I had the same situation on Galaxy MK IV year 2015.
I have disconnected the battery for few minutes and after reconnecting the lock opened. Maybe there is some overload protection which disabled the lock.

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  • 7 months later...

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