MikesFocusZS Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Hi all. I'm having a bit of trouble unlocking and locking my car with my FOB. I have replaced batteries in both my fobs including spare one and it just won't lock or unlock my car. My model doesn't have a ignition barrel as its a keyless start/stop. But however does have a key hidden in the fob that is usual used for the bonnet. So I try this key and it unlocks all my doors fine. Now the weird thing is. To start my car, the car must recognise that the fob is inside the car for it to start up. Which it does this fine. So my confusion is my car won't recognise my fob trying to unlock or lock my car but will recognise it to start up the car. Has any one had this issue or might know what it could be? To try help you out. I installed a Dash Cam a couple of months ago following a guide on here. (Hard wiring it). I put a piggy bank into my fog light fuse. All worked fine but then my dash cam wasn't charging while engine was on. So I changed fuse and it's working again. But now I have this problem I have unplugged it all just to be safe. But still no luck and fog lights are working fine. Have I blew a fuse with something to do with my fob unlocking the car? Ford Focus Zetec S 60 plate, petrol. Any help will be appreciated, Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Proautocare Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Open the door with the key Put the key in the ignition Turn the key to the second position (lights up the dashboard) Turn the key back to the off position Repeat steps 3 & 4 four times (you will hear an audio sound if you have done it right) When you hear the audio sound press the lock button on your key fob a few times (I normally hit it about 6 or so times for about 10 seconds) If the doors lock, you are laughing and you have fixed it, if the doors don't then give it another go (I couldn't do it right first time) Hope this helps.. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 Thanks for trying to help bud. However I don't have an ignition barrel to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trailertrash Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Keys and Remote Controls Isn't there a barrel in the usual place under the cover plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simcor Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Keyless start cars needs the remote control programming with Ford IDS as they don't have an ignition barrel that turns to enter the programming mode as far as I have been able to ascertain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simcor Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 Mikesfocus the car will start because it senses the transponder part of the key allowing the car to start, the remote function is separate so would not stop the car starting. You will need your keys programming properly back onto your car for the remote function to work again and it requires IDS as far as I can tell, there is no procedure known to reprogram the letters keys like there is for the normal flip key for cars without legless start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 6 hours ago, MikesFocusZS said: Have I blew a fuse with something to do with my fob unlocking the car? Hi, If it is a Mk2A, try looking at F102 & F126 in the Passenger Fuse box. If it is Mk3, try F81. These fuses power the external remote receiver. But I suspect, as Simon says, there may be a problem with the key fob programming (reset for some reason), that requires re-programming. If you want to try to re-programme it yourself, have a look through the Forscan website. That system MAY be able to do it. Otherwise I guess its a garage job, unless you know someone with access to IDS. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Hi all thanks again for the help. Yep defintly no ignition barrel under the cap. i will check them fuses when I get home from work. See if that works. If not looks like I'm going to have to go to ford :( doubt any local garages will have acces to IDS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjt Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 As I mentioned on another thread if you press the 'Power' button without the clutch or brake depressed the igniton comes on without the car starting, similar to position II on the ignition barrel, and a second press turns it off again. Has anyone ever tried cycling this 4 times to see if it works? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted July 2, 2016 Author Share Posted July 2, 2016 On 24 June 2016 at 10:03 AM, mjt said: As I mentioned on another thread if you press the 'Power' button without the clutch or brake depressed the igniton comes on without the car starting, similar to position II on the ignition barrel, and a second press turns it off again. Has anyone ever tried cycling this 4 times to see if it works? On 24 June 2016 at 1:05 AM, Tdci-Peter said: Hi, If it is a Mk2A, try looking at F102 & F126 in the Passenger Fuse box. If it is Mk3, try F81. These fuses power the external remote receiver. But I suspect, as Simon says, there may be a problem with the key fob programming (reset for some reason), that requires re-programming. If you want to try to re-programme it yourself, have a look through the Forscan website. That system MAY be able to do it. Otherwise I guess its a garage job, unless you know someone with access to IDS. Peter. MJT I tired what you suggested but didn't have none of it after several tries :( Peter: I had a tow bar fitted today so I got him to test my fuses 102 and 126. They both are fine. He also plugged his computer in to see if any error codes come up. but wasn't show anything. However when he went I replaced both of them for new fuses and still not working. Looks like I'm having to go fords. :( can some one explain what IDS means ? Or does anyone know in the north west where I can get this checked ? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoney871 Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Integrated Diagnostic System. Sent from my SM-G930F Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted July 2, 2016 Author Share Posted July 2, 2016 Thank you! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 4 hours ago, MikesFocusZS said: can some one explain what IDS means As clive says, IDS is the main Ford diagnostic, test & update system, that is used by all Ford main dealers. It can be purchased, but is very expensive & usually involves a license payment. So some Ford specialist garages (that are not full main dealers) may also have it. There is something I don't quite understand: Keyless vehicles usually have a passive key. The car detects that the key is close, and when you pull the door handle it unlocks the car. Then when the key is detected inside the vehicle, it enables the engine start. The car can be locked (provided the key is detected outside the vehicle), by the buttons on the door handle or tailgate. So there is no real need for the remote control function that uses buttons on the fob? Or is your model different? Or is the external sensing of the passive key not working? Peter. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW1982 Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 Keyless entry and and Keyless start are 2 seperate things. Many Fords have Keyless start combined with normal remote central locking. On these vehicles the lock/unlock buttons of the Keyfob (passive key) must be used to lock/unlock the car and there is a START button to start/stop the car. Both the Keyless entry and Keyless start system use a passive key that incorporates 3 different systems. 1. Remote control circuitry for the central locking system. 2. PATS (immobilizer) transmitter This transmitter sends a signal which is (or is not) recognised by the vehicle. This signal is used for both the Keyless entry and the Keyless start system. 3. Conventional PATS chip. This chip is basically a backup system. If the PATS stransmitter system is no longer working the car can still be started by holding the passive key next to the PATS reader inside the steering collumn(this PATS reader is located behind the cover). Both the remote control circuitry and the PATS transmitter circuitry use the battery of the Keyfob. If 1 of these systems is working fine the battery should not be the problem. Next to this a flat Keyfob battery should display a warning message onto the instrument cluster display. In my opinion there will not be a problem with the keyfobs because the central locking functions are not working on both keyfobs and the Keyless start function is still working fine. Personally I expect the problem to be caused by a defective remote receiver or by a defective GEM module/fuse box. Depending on the production date the remote receiver can be installed on top of the roofliner or integrated into the GEM module/fuse box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Ye JW is correct with my model. Its just keyless start/stop and to open my doors I use the buttons on the FOB's. Which both my FOB's ain't unlocking my car even with new batteries but however my car recognises my fob once in the car and let's me start the car. Which doesn't let you do that if you don't have the FOB in the car. JW you have completely lost me with all the technical comments haha. I had a look in my Cars owners book and can't find anything to do with GEM module fuse box. But like you say it does seem like something to do with my fob receiver to unlock the car. However I have tried fuses, 102 and 126 like Peter suggested. My car is the Ford Focus Zetec S MK2.5 on a 60 plate. If that helps ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tdci-Peter Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 The GEM module is an integral part of the Passenger Fuse box. It also has the more generic name of BCM (Body Control Module). It is a major electronic module handling a huge range of body (non-engine) related functions from indicators to windows & central locking. Unfortunately we seem to have ruled out the easy causes. Faults in the wiring loom or in the GEM/BCM are hard to track down. It is worth pulling out this fuse box, removing a few relays & connectors (photo it 1st!), & having a good look for damage. Water (leaks or drips from a/c pipes) hes been known to damage these units. And there could be a bad electrical connection that will be cured (temporarily at least) by re-connection. If that fails, some people have reported success by just replacing the BCM with a 2nd hand one, but this is by no means guaranteed. According to the book, it has to be re-programmed for the car, but I have heard of people not doing this. If you do not want to risk outlay on a 2nd hand one, (that may be money down the drain), and do not know someone who might be able to help, locally, then I fear that a visit to a competent garage (not always easy to find one!), will be needed. Peter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikesFocusZS Posted July 3, 2016 Author Share Posted July 3, 2016 Cheers for the advice Peter I really appreciate it. You learn something new every day. However I'm not confident enough to be messing with more things lol. I don't want to mess it up anymore. Think I'll give a couple of garages a ring tomorrow and see what they can do. Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony Stevens Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 Hi all, I've been experiencing issues with the remote locking on my 2010 Focus, the doors would only lock and unlock when the Fob was pressed 3 times, so I replaced the Fob battery and it seemed to fix the issue. However the problem has come back again, any advice? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unofix Posted October 26, 2022 Share Posted October 26, 2022 Use a multimeter and measure the voltage of the Fob battery. It should be 3.30V when brand new and will start to cause problems once it gets below 3.03V Only use good quality CR2032 batteries form: Duracell / Panasonic / Energizer, and only buy them from reputable shops. There are many poor quality batteries on the market and even more counterfeit ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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