46 minutes ago, Bigrich22 said:

@Dee_82 just been reading another thread about the EGR valve and DPF and you seemed quite knowledgable on the subject so a quick question for you. 

When I bought the car my brother suggested blanking the EGR and cutting open the DPF and removing in the insides but soon after all my other issues started to pop up and I never got round to looking into it.

is it something you recommend I should do while I have the engine out, my brother has a welder and he's more than capable of opening and sealing the dpf for me but my only concern at the min is having the EGR and dpf deleted from the ECU and the cost related to it or is it something I could do with an elm cable and a bit of research myself. 

 

Cheers rich

it would certainly make life easier, the EGR valve is in a slightly awkward position and whilst its totally doable from up top, you ideally need to remove the fuel filter and its bracket as well as the wipers and the scuttle panel, if you had easy access your talking about a 60 second job, loosen, insert plate, tighten.

 

To remove the engine you will need to disconnect the DPF anyway so again, whilst its out it will make life easier to cut it open and gut it. you will need to have the DPF deleted otherwise you will have problems, the EGR doesnt need mapped out on a EuroIV, im not sure about EuroV engines. but the DPF will and unfortunately it isnt something that an ELM327 cable will help you do.

 

as to recommending them, personally i would recommend the EGR, the DPF is a bit more.... tricky!

legalities and moralities aside, yes get rid of the stupid thing, its a pain in the bottom. it will reduce the life of your turbo, cost you a lot of money to replace and it will reducing the mpg

 

what i leave up to you is the morality of doing it, it is illegal, although so is blanking the EGR but no one really cares about that. if you have a EuroIV engine it is very unlikely that anyone will ever know but i believe Euro V engines will be getting some sort of test to make sure it s working.  If you know someone that can map it out and your not bothered by the legalities etc then the answer seems fairly obvious, paying for the delete might be costly tho (and very unreasonable considering the amount of work they have do to)

 

Hi guys I have just read the whole thread very interesting.

The reason I'm posting is I decided this morning to change the fuel filter on my 1.6 TDCi Focus I have had it from new I do about 3K miles a year and it's done 55K and this is its first fuel filter change, I followed everything in my Haynes manual and filled the new filter with fresh diesel and used a Vaccum pump to pull the fuel through the new filter before starting the engine, it ran for about 20 seconds then died and I have not been able to start it since then, I have tried filling the pipes and the filter but nothing.

A friend of mine is a service manager at our local Ford dealers I gave him a ring he came around and within 5 mins the car was running, he said to me there is no need to fill the filter or the pipes, after fitting the new filter connect everything up, then remove the main return pipe the Green connector on the 1.6 110 TDCi engine and with a vaccum source suck there through the whole system the reconect and start and if it wont start use the vaccum on it as the engine is cranked which is what we did and it worked fine ararently that is how they do it on the track at the factory.

I hope this helps others.

 

makes sense I suppose, ill give that a try next time. cheers

3 hours ago, Pete1969 said:

remove the main return pipe the Green connector on the 1.6 110 TDCi engine and with a vaccum source suck there through the whole system

I have just re-read this thread too. There were bits I had no memory of , and other bits I recall well! An interesting one.

I well remember the final decision to go and rebuld a DV6 engine, and did wonder about the wisdom of it. It is not a simple thing! richrd has not been around this site for a while, so I fear the project may have floundered!

Regarding bleeding fuel systems (in more ways than one ), I have wondered before if it would be possible to do it from the return line. When pressurising my 1.8 fuel filter, it lost pressure slowly, and I assume it was getting through the pump and into the return line. But it took a fair amount of pressure to do this.

If it was possible (on the 1.8 & 2.0 as well as 1.6), it would be so much safer and easier than on the input side. Any dirt getting in would only go back to the tank, to join the rest of the muck in there. And air getting in when disconnecting the vacuum or priming system would not matter.

If it takes more than 1 bar to get fuel through the pump, then vacuum on the outlet is no good. But it sounds like it will work on the 1.6 at least. I suspect it will work on the 1.8. But it might need a good vacuum pump. (I have a pump that can get down to under 4mBar abs, a very good vacuum, but I do not want diesel in it!)

 

On ‎04‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 11:48 PM, Tdci-Peter said:

 

If it takes more than 1 bar to get fuel through the pump, then vacuum on the outlet is no good. But it sounds like it will work on the 1.6 at least. I suspect it will work on the 1.8. But it might need a good vacuum pump. (I have a pump that can get down to under 4mBar abs, a very good vacuum, but I do not want diesel in it!)

 

You need a "barrier container" - the hand operated US Mityvac pumps have them for brake bleeding - piece of cake with a vacuum on the bleed nipple and a close eye on the reservoir level.  

 

As a boat owner fuel system bleeding is something that comes as second nature to us.  I'm not sure your idea would work, because the fuel return line comes from the overflow from the individual injector pump, which is well over-supplied with fuel and goes to the return line before it gets into the individual pump chamber.  Too much valbe gear around to let it work I think