1.6 TDCI MK2 starting issues

[Bigrich22]

 

Hey guys hoping for a little advise, this may seem long winded but I want to be as accurate as possible. 

55 plate Ford Focus 1.6 tdci 110bhp

Had the car a month, it had a new engine fitted at 128k with the new engine having done 44k about 6 months ago, he had receipts to prove it. A  few days after I purchased it I noticed the car had lost its power, struggling to breach 60mph no acceleration and just generally sluggish, replaced the turbo but the problem persisted.

After doing a long trip, about 160 miles round the car just lost all power and would not start again. RAC said it was a fuel issue I phoned my mechanic friend up and he told me to check the fuel filter for metal fillings, it did have a few tiny pieces of metal in the filter, he told me fuel injector pump was dead. He hooked it up to his snapon diagnostic machine and it also said the flow plugs have had it.

Car cranks fine but won't start.

Any way he's on holiday now for three weeks and I need my car sorting now so I'm going to try and do it myself but I need a little advise first.

Here is the pump I have bought it's a 
Bosch 0445010102

So 2 questions

I'm not sure if it's run off the timing belt or just an auxiliary belt??

if it's the timing belt I think I'll just have to wait for his return.

Also I have been told that certain cars key there pumps to the engine so my new pump won't even work any way

But besides all the above my plan is to replace the fuel injector pump, clean all the fuel pipes going to and from the pump, clean the fuel feed pipes to the injectors, replace fuel filter

If any one can answer my questions or offer me any advice I would really appreciate it 

Cheers rich

Ps only getting 31MPG which seems low to me

[Tdci-Peter]

14 hours ago, Bigrich22 said:

plan is to replace the fuel injector pump, clean all the fuel pipes going to and from the pump, clean the fuel feed pipes to the injectors,

Haynes manual  (no 4807) describes this procedure in some detail . It also shows how to make a tool needed to release the sprocket. However, it says the timing belt must be removed.

It does not mention pump coding. I don't think this is needed on a Focus. Injector coding would be needed, however.

Also, it is much better to replace all the high pressure pipes. They use high integrity metal to metal seals, to contain the extremely high (>1000 Bar possibly) pressures. They are designed for single use.

One worry is that for the metal filings to get to the filter, they may have passed through the injectors. In fact I am not sure how many filings would get to the filter. As far as I know, on all these Foci, the return pipes from pump & injectors go right back to the tank. So any metal shards from the pump would have to pass through the tank.

A system like Forscan may be able to monitor pump outlet pressure at cranking speed. But it would be hard to do any really useful diagnostics on an engine that will not run. Full diagnostic tests should have been done at the first sign of problems, really. It sounds like low pump pressure may have been the original problem. Forscan can also recode injectors.

If you can do most of the work yourself, and the injectors are ok or repairable, then the job will be worth doing. But if done at garage rates, it would exceed the value of the car, I suspect.

 

 

[Bigrich22]

hi peter, thanks for your reply, i actually went today and bought that very manual. I managed to get the fuel injection pump swapped over, following the manual, the timing wasnt the issue i thought it would be because its got holes to put bolts in to hold it all in place, however the car still wont start, ill list every thing i have done to try to remedy it so you can see if any thing stands out

in order of what i did

1. Turbo- still sluggish, no change to performance to the one i put in

TWO WEEKS LATER BROKE DOWN

1. replaced throttle control unit- still wont start

2. Replaced all sensors on throttle control unit- Still wont start

3. changed MAF sensor-still no start

MY MECHANIC RUNS SNAPON DIOG AND TELLS ME GLOW PLUGS ARE DEAD, P0238 ERROR CODE (TURBO PRESSURE SENSOR) RECONMENDS I GET AN AUTO ELECTRION

AUTO ELECTRITION COMES OUT HIS CHECKS SAY FUEL PRESSURE DROPPING ON CRANK SUGGESTS I CHANGE FUEL INJECTION PUMP

4. Changed fuel injection pump and fuel filter- still no start

battery DEAD FROM ALL START ATTEMPS, NO LIGHTS, CENTRAL LOCKING, NO WINDOWS BUT IMMOBALISER LIGHT STILL FLASHING

5. New battery- No start but all electrics back

6. tried to tow it a few miles to start it but still no start 

 

I know what you mean when you say its not worth the money to repair it but im already £2000 in with whati paid for it then all the replacment parts i have no more money to buy another car i need to get this working.

 

Not sure if its in my head or not but i think it may be vibrating a little more than usual when im trying to start it then it did before the break down but cant say for sure

 

any more advise would be greatly appreciated

 

thanks rich

[Bigrich22]

guess i should also mention what i intend to do tomorrow, unless i get lucky and some one steals it tonight fingers crossed.

1. Replace glow plugs, cant see that changing any thing as its hardly cold outside this week

2. release the metal fuel pipes that go to the injectors while cranking the car just to check that i replaced the fuel injection pump correctly and fuel is getting to each of the four injectors

2. Call out the RAC and tell them i just broke down see if they can get it working

3, Tow it down a dark lane and torch it :)

just to add to my previous post when i replace fuel filter i filled it with diesel first

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Bigrich22 said:

release the metal fuel pipes that go to the injectors while cranking the car just to check that i replaced the fuel injection pump correctly and fuel is getting to each of the four injectors

With these common rail diesels, if it is getting to one, it is getting to all. The pump maintains a roughly constant pressure in the rail.

A leak back test on the injectors can also be done. There should be flow even at cranking speed, the valve uses some of the fuel to operate the main seat or pintle. And this fuel must go to the return pipes. This would show whether fuel was reaching the injectors without disturbing high pressure pipes.

The 1.6 TDCI is sensitive to glowplug problems at all times, it uses them for emissions control. But it will usually light a warning lamp if they are bad. But it might prevent it from starting.

I am not sure how they got from DTC P0238 (Boost Pressure sensor failure, which I read as being the MAP sensor that measures the air pressure in the inlet manifold), to fuel rail low pressure.

P0238 seems to have been ignored. If the MAP is not working, that may prevent a start?

The voltages on the MAP sensor should be 0v (ground), 5v (supply) & about 1.7v (signal) with ignition on, engine off.

BTW: If you really wanted to do an insurance job by setting fire to it, broadcasting it on the Internet first would not be a brilliant plan.

 

 

[Dee_82]

I wonder, go back to the start, replaced the engine and it had poor acceleration and wouldn't pass 60mph.  What would cause a car to have poor acceleration and prevent it from going past 60...

IIRC, the turbo on this helps it get up to speed but isn't used to sustain it and you've changed it anyway

fuel delivery problems would result in it being starved of fuel, stuttering, drop in pressure, but you have changed the pump and the filter so its unlikely to be a physical problem unless its in the injectors.

you have replaced the MAF and MAP, which leaves the electronics side, the car will start witout a MAF but I'm not sure about the MAP

Quick question though, you seem to know what your doing but are you aware that this car doesn't have a LP fuel pump?

The fuel is sucked from the tank by the HP fuel pump, if its not completely bled it will not start and will  crank until the battery is flat, if you havent done it already,  i think before you do anything else, just check that the HP pump is getting fuel and that when cranking that fuel is getting to the injectors, when I did a leak back test on this engine it took some time before fuel started to come back through, I'm not sure that the battery will last long enough to do that test peter

 

edit:

I'm dumb, just watch it come out of each injector return port :)

 

 

[Bigrich22]

Hi Pete and again thanks for the reply, the insurance thing was a joke...... I think, let's see why today brings....

 

i forgot to mention I also changed the MAP sensor when I changed the others.

 

i read up  into doing a leak back test 

 

thanks

[Dee_82]

disconnect the rubber return tubes on the top of the injectors, then bung up the tube on far left which eventually takes the fuel back to the tank, I used a small nail, the first time I did a test I didnt to do that and fuel came pishing out of it, though I'm not really sure why.

put some rags around the injectors and get someone to turn it over, it should dribble out, it wont be much, on a working engine your looking at only a few dozen ml after a few min of it running, so just turning it over will only drop a very small amount. I think you will flatten the battery doing it to see enough coming through. on a working engine you would measure the fuel coming out of each injector to see how its working, but I think for now just getting any fuel out of it will narrow down the problems.

when I bled mine to install a new filter I found the best way was to use the pump to suck fuel in to the fuel filter, then using a small syringe slowly filled up the pipe going down to the HP fuel pump, doing it slowing will help prevent any air locks, once the tube is full, quickly reconnect it to the fuel filter.  Maybe not help at all but maybe you have already fixed the initial problem and this is now something different.  Good luck! :)

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Dee_82 said:

I'm not sure that the battery will last long enough to do that test peter

Good point, I should have spotted or covered that. richrd has already flattened it once. Needs a powerful charger attached, or maybe connect to another car with its engine idling. And only crank for about 15s in every minute. The starter motor and solenoid will overheat with continuous cranking.

It is much harder trying to diagnose a dead engine. So many normal methods won't work properly. But fuel getting through the injectors (or into the return pipes) would eliminate quite a few possibilities.

1 hour ago, Bigrich22 said:

insurance thing was a joke

Yes, I was only responding in like manner. You have put too much work into this project to give up just yet!

[Bigrich22]

Morning guys thanks for the replys and just let me clear a few things up.

The most important thing you should all know, I'm a complete and utter novice, I knew nothing about cars until April when I passed my test. That been said, I'm rather intelligent, I love to learn new skills and I have no qualms in spending hours reading and researching issues to fix things. I DONT LIKE TO LOSE!

i bought a 02plate £300 mk1 1.6 petrol focus, I bought it with the intention of having a few months of getting used to the roads then scrapping it. I called her Florence. Never skipped a beat, started first throw of the key and drives so smooth once I changed a wheel bearing and fixed a small hole in exhaust, I was so impressed I went out and purchased the bag of nails I have now hoping it would live up to the expectations of the mk1.

I need to point out I did not change the engine, I bought it with the new engine fitted at 44k, that was the main selling point for me the low mileage and the overall mint condition of the car. 

It was an old man who seemed genuine and honest hence the reason I paid £1500 for the car.

a couple of days after purchase is when it started to develop issues, that's when I started doing all the work mentioned in previous posts.

Besides the engine itself I think I have tested or replaced everything else.

im hoping its air in the fuel lines but I'm waiting for the RAC as I type to come take a look first before I do anything else.

 

like you say I have spent over £2000 on the car now I'm not willing to give up yet.

i will update the post once RAC have been out and taken a look, thanks for all the input guys like I say I'm no expert and even the smallest bit of advice is all welcome.

 

rich

 

[Dee_82]

id bet you a pint that it isn't primed correctly, I'm no expert but ive had exactly the same symptoms when changing the fuel filter, it doesn't necessarily  explain the initial problem, but you might have already fixed that without knowing  itll have an airlock at the HP pump which will prevent it sucking more through, once the fuel stops at the pump it wont generate any pressure in the high pressure fuel lines and wont suck up more fuel from the tank

 

[Tdci-Peter]

1 hour ago, Bigrich22 said:

hoping it would live up to the expectations of the mk1

The Mk2 is, in many ways, a better car than the Mk1. But a 1.6TDCI Mk2 is a very much more complex beast than a petrol Mk1. A lot more to go wrong, but when it works, it is a good car. You are on a bit of a steep learning curve here, I still have a lot to learn about these modern cars. The next generation is even more complex.

But you seem to be picking things up very quickly. Re The RAC man: They are not always great at diagnosing engine problems, their job is to get it going if it is simple, otherwise get it to a garage. Watch & listen, but treat any advice with a little suspicion until verified.

19 minutes ago, Dee_82 said:

an airlock at the HP pump which will prevent it sucking more through

A priming bulb is the best solution. On the inlet side of the filter. The Ford way is to ram fuel through the filter, into the high pressure pump, then crank. I did this recently, & it worked well.

[Bigrich22]

Well the RAC man did nothing, told me I had a flat battery which I already knew put some jump leads on and tried to start it. 

He also tried easi start spray which didn't work. 

Hooked it up to his diog machine which came back with a few faults but he didn't elaborate on them, I got a print out so will attach it to this post for you all to take a look at but from what I can see, most of them are down to dead battery. 

His words were you bought a pig, leave it on road side and pray some one hits it.

he left with saying can't say what's wrong with it because he can't get the engine to run.

 

feeling a little deflated

maybe I slightly knocked the timing out when reattaching the belt??

maybe the new pumps faulty?

maybe it's clogged injectors?

the cars been totally rebuilt now so can't really do much more tonight other than read read read.

still need to check fuel is getting to injectors but I'll try in the morning because it's getting dark now 

one last thing I have read about and quite possibly the only thing that's not been changed, camshaft sensor? From what I understand it tells the ecu that every thing is lined up correctly and inline, if that had failed would the ecu stop the car from starting to protect the engine? If it's that would the RAC man picked up on it??

anyway I'm hoping I have air in the fuel line some where so I'll buy a priming bulb tomorrow and check if fuel is getting to injectors 

 

right now I'm going to pour myself a lager and relax for an hour eagerly awaiting your replys

thanks guys

 

ps please see attachment for RAC report 

[Dee_82]

RAC man sounds like a bit of a plonker.

What he said was " I cant start it with a charger, I cant be bothered to look any further and am not paid to do anything else eiter, so go to a garage and let them deal with it."

one thing with the bulb, mine wasn't effective, the valve is gravity driven meaning you have to have it in an upright position or the valve wont close, BUT, if there is air in the primer or from the valve, it wont work, it will just try and push air down the pipe, I ended up giving up trying to use it inline.   connect up the priming tool to the outlet on the filter, suck that fuel through until its bubble free, take a syringe and suck up the fuel you just passed through the filter and slowly fill up the hose  going down to the fuel pump, once the hose is full to the brim, get everything clear and quickly connect it up to the filter. do that first, charge up the battery and give it ago. I don't think randomly changing things is going to help.

[Tdci-Peter]

5 hours ago, Bigrich22 said:

still need to check fuel is getting to injectors

 

2 hours ago, Dee_82 said:

one thing with the bulb, mine wasn't effective, the valve is gravity driven meaning you have to have it in an upright position or the valve wont close

If Darren's bulb was the same as mine (Laser), it was a bit poor. I had a good non-return valve in the line to the filter, and had put rubber o-rings into the bulb valves, so it did work. I avoided the air down the line bit by opening the top air vent on the filter until air stopped coming out, then closed that and partially removed the outlet hose from the filter, so air & fuel could escape, but dirt could not get in. Dirt in that filter outlet hose worries me, next stops are the pump & injectors.

But whether you use Darren's method, taking care with cleanliness, or some version of my method, you should be able to get fuel to the pump. Then see if it starts, or at least if fuel appears at the injector return pipes. Hope you have a good battery charger!

Cam sensor error will normally set a diagnostic code, I would expect to see this even when cranking, as the Cam sensor is needed then to get the injection sequence right, and the pcm must work ok at low cranking voltage, as that is an important part of its job. If the Cam sensor is needed to start an engine, then surely a major failure will bring up a code on a non-starting engine! Otherwise, how can it be diagnosed?

Most of the RAC dtcs are in modules that are more likely to be affected by low voltages. Looks like his list was truncated, there may have been a lot more. I think you ought to think about getting the Forscan system. It can probe all the modules, not just the engine stuff. It is probably not a huge amount of use at the moment, but it would double check if a cam sensor dtc was there, just not listed. Also you could disconnect the sensor, and look to see if that did raise a DTC. And it will come in useful at a later date, if the engine gets working, or if you get another Ford.

I "bang on" about Forscan in a lot of my posts, but it is very powerful tool for anyone with at least some level of technical understanding. Search, or ask here, if interested.

Hoping for better news later today (now!)

Peter.

 

[Dee_82]

couldn't agree more with Peter and forscan, its a fantastic piece of kit, I keep my ELM adaptor and my laptop in the car every time I'm in it, if things start to feel a bit odd, ill connect it up straight away and monitor what ever is relevant, every month or so I also take the car out for a bit of fun and record a number of sensors, in the past that has helped with a garage who claimed that the DPF temp sensor must have been broken before they did the work. I had a record of it working going to the garage which soon convinced them to change their mind :D            

One thing with the 1.6 TDCI is that the integrated fuel filter is different to your 1.8, the housing and filter are all one and the same, on the 1.6 there is no air bleeding tap, there is a water bleeding valve at the bottom but that's all.

The cost of a fuel filter on the 1.6 is crazy compared to yours, if I could work out what the sensor on the top of the filter does I might consider removing the ford filter and installing an inline modular one like yours, where you can just drop out a filter core leaving the housing intact, but I need to work out what the sensor on the top does first, its not water, it has no pre heater element and I don't think there is any fuel flow sensors so I'm a little stumped.

Thinking about it I might just cut one open and take a look

 

[Tdci-Peter]

8 minutes ago, Dee_82 said:

if I could work out what the sensor on the top of the filter does

On the Focus Mk2, DV6 wiring diagram, there is a fuel temperature sensor indicated. It has two wires, Wh-Bu & Bn-Bu

There is also a fuel heater shown with two wires, Gn-Rd & Bk. (marked MTX75 only)

On one version, a water in fuel sensor is shown with 3 wires, Gn-Rd, Bk-Og & Wh-Bu

Do any of these colour combinations match?

[Dee_82]

1 hour ago, Tdci-Peter said:

On the Focus Mk2, DV6 wiring diagram, there is a fuel temperature sensor indicated. It has two wires, Wh-Bu & Bn-Bu

There is also a fuel heater shown with two wires, Gn-Rd & Bk. (marked MTX75 only)

On one version, a water in fuel sensor is shown with 3 wires, Gn-Rd, Bk-Og & Wh-Bu

Do any of these colour combinations match?

Yeah, it matches the fuel heater, one black, the other green with a red stripe.

The curious thing is I just checked ELMconfig and the fuel preheater isn't enabled on this car, If I where to hazard a guess id have thought it would be used in extreme cold areas, such as Russia.  Unless there is any other benefit to pre heating fuel, if there is no other benefit I might pull the plug and see what happens.  ill tap in to the plug with a meter first and see if anything is actually going on

[Tdci-Peter]

30 minutes ago, Dee_82 said:

fuel preheater isn't enabled

On the drawings (all diesel versions), the fuel filter heater is not drawn as being controllable at all.

The Relay R5 in the FJB powers it directly, and the coil of R5 is energised straight off the "Ignition On" bus bar in the PJB. So the heater should always be on while ignition is on. But these drawings may not cover all variants. Interesting to check.

Fuse F24 is for the heater, Fuse F25 is for the relay coil.

[Dee_82]

interesting, ill check it out tonight, should be easier enough to tell.

I did a quick read there and pre heating is only used in really cold climates to prevent paraffin crystals forming which turns in to a gel and blocks the filter.

its suggested it can help fuel economy as well, I guess if its always on then it can probably be installed in to a third party inline filter with a removable cartridge....might even be easier to just mount the 1.8 housing and change the plug if it has a preheater built in.

Edit, or just install a citroen filter housing for half the price of the filter in my car!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CITROEN-C3-1-6-HDI-DIESEL-FUEL-FILTER-DELPHI-HDF939-/131525472083?hash=item1e9f876f53:g:bUkAAOSwGWNUW1DG

[Dee_82]

right enough, its just a 12v supply, kicks in when the engine is running

[Bigrich22]

Hi guys I'm back needed a break from the car after yesterday was feeling a little deflated!

having said that i have still been thinking about it and I came to the conclusion I have lost all faith in the car, if I went outside and it started first time right now it would always be in the back of my mind what's next, what was that noise, can I go further than 10 mile down the road with out having to worry and the answer is no, I don't think I could ever enjoy the car again in its current state so I have been busy, I'm of the mind set that nothing is impossible and everything can be fixed so with that in mind I have decided to tackle the car head on. 

The only way i will ever be happy with the car again is if I have checked and inspected every last inch of it 

Que the a team theme song.......

IM GOING TO RIP TO ENGINE OUT!!

I have spoken to my brother, not a mechanic but been tinkering with cars for the last 25 years and usually fixes all his own issues and because he has his own 6 meters x 12 meters garage on his back garden just full of tools, compressors and everything else one could need to fix a car.

we are going to tow the car to his garage remove everything under the bonnet and slowly and meticulously check, inspect, replace all seals, rings and gaskets,  filters, pipes, rusty bolts and clean it all and rebuild it from the ground up!!!

i know to a lot of people reading this post you will be thinking what a wally, he's going to wreck his car and yes I quite possibly will but this car has been a constant pain in my backside since the day I got it and I'm not going to let it beat me.

im sure it's going to be a massive learning curve but I'm sure with the Haynes manual, Google and the help and support I've been getting of this forum I'll be ok

ive been out and bought a engine hoist, I was going to order the elm cable last week but not had time to read about it properly yet so will order after work tonight when I know exactly what to buy.

@Dee_82 I suspect your right with the air in the fuel line but I have noticed other things wrong with the car while working on it like missing bolts and loose plugs so I just don't trust it any more and want to inspect everything

i also have a spare fuel filter you can have if you want to play about with that rather than messing about with your own, it's the canister style one that costs about £40 I'm in the Nottinghamshire area if your local feel free to come pick it up, or you can arrange a currier from parcel monkey for about £6 and I'll send it you.

 

@Tdci-Peter thanks for all your help and advise so far I find it interesting reading

[Tdci-Peter]

14 minutes ago, Bigrich22 said:

we are going to tow the car to his garage remove everything under the bonnet and slowly and meticulously check, inspect, replace all .....

If you have the facilities (dry, clean, heatable), and some support, it sounds like it might not be a bad idea. I once did a similar strip down to a Hillman Imp engine, using my dad's workshops. But that is small fry compared to a modern diesel.

Since you have suggested the idea of a major rebuild, I will say something I thought about last night, but did not want to mention then. When talking about the RAC man, you said:

"He also tried easi start spray which didn't work."

That may just be significant.

I have heard of a couple of instances of easi start being used on diesels. It usually makes them fire up, but they stop once the spray has been used up, if there is a fault. The engine compression should be enough to ignite the spray. The injectors don't matter in this. The glowplugs would assist, but I suspect a good squirt, with good compression, will make it fire a couple of times without glowplugs. That stuff has a fairly low auto-igniton temperature.

Not firing could be that he was cautious, did not use enough. Or the fluid did not reach the engine. Where did he inject it? Air filter, or inlet manifold? Or cranking was too slow to reach ignition temperature. Or engine compression is low.

It is the last item that is significant. If enough was used, and it went in the inlet manifold, and cranking was not too lethargic, then that only leaves lack of compression. Diesels only need fuel, air & compression to fire.

Lack of compression could be a valve (timing, or damage) problem, or a piston ring / wear problem.

Might be worth doing a compression test (or leak down test applying pressure to the cylinders) before dismantling the engine, it will tell what to look out for.

Bear in mind you will need more than just mechanical tools for this job. For testing electrical items like all the motor driven valves, and the miles of wiring, you may want a variable power supply (0-15v, 0-6A would cover most needs), and a decent multimeter, or two. These things are not too expensive now. CPC do some good stuff at reasonable prices. And a good diagnostic system like Forscan.

One word of caution: Before doing anything else, get the car up and have a really good look at the rear suspension, with all its struts & bits. Mine is very prone to rust in that area. I have been treating it with rust convertor (phosphoric acid) and Waxoyl. It was only about 6 years old when I first noticed the problems there. You do not want to do up the engine, just to find the rear subframes are rotted to bits. Remember this is an 11 year old car. Do a survey of the whole car. Then take a day or two to mull it over before committing to further expenditure.

Please keep us informed. Might be worth starting a new topic on it if you do go ahead.

Peter.

 

[Bigrich22]

@Tdci-Peter when you mention the easi start not actually firing that's when I knew my troubles were only starting and the reason I was so disheartened yesterday but when mechanic first checked it out he said the engine and compression sounded fine, he stuck a long screwdriver on the engine then put his ear to it while I tried to turn it over. For this reason I think I may of slightly knocked the timing out when I put the belt back on after changing fuel pump hence the reason it won't start now and why I want the engine out for a proper inspection. I have already inspected the under carriage of the car and its in immaculate condition like the rest of the car it's just the !Removed! heart of it lol.

when I start the rebuild I intend on starting a new thread detailing everything logging it all and putting up step by step photos so hopefully one day some one will be able to benefit from my misfortune 

It  would be great if you could keep an eye out for that thread because your help and advise on here as been priceless

[Bigrich22]

@Dee_82 just been reading another thread about the EGR valve and DPF and you seemed quite knowledgable on the subject so a quick question for you. 

When I bought the car my brother suggested blanking the EGR and cutting open the DPF and removing in the insides but soon after all my other issues started to pop up and I never got round to looking into it.

is it something you recommend I should do while I have the engine out, my brother has a welder and he's more than capable of opening and sealing the dpf for me but my only concern at the min is having the EGR and dpf deleted from the ECU and the cost related to it or is it something I could do with an elm cable and a bit of research myself. 

 

Cheers rich