Hi,

I have a 2005 Focus 1.6 Ghia and have a cooling fan issue. I've searched but couldn't seem to find this exact issue, so I'm hoping someone is able to help!

Basically, the fan doesn't come on, the car never really seems to mind, unless it's a very hot day and stuck in traffic. I have searched so found out how to use the dashboard screen to show the temperature, which seems to be out of whack (when the car was cold, just turned on, it read 85C, then rose to around 125C when the dash temp gauge seems to read 90C). I checked the fuse panel under the dash, and I think someone has possibly removed the fuse/relay for the fan. 

What I'm wondering is perhaps a previous owner found the fan was on all the time (where the temp sensor was wrong) and took the fuse out to stop this, and this is why the fan doesn't come on? I'm just guessing here as my mechanical skills aren't good! I've attached a picture of my fuse panel, and I'm hoping someone can tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree here, or if they think that my issue could be fixed simply! I'm wondering if it's the 30A (where there is a gap) fuse below the blue 20A ones in the middle

Thanks!

Chris

according to your cover its the end red 50amp fuse, could be the relay at fault , wiring from fan module to pcm, fan module, fan, etc. . put your reg into www.ford.etis and check for outstanding recall. was one for fan module issues, i can see thats not been done on your car( extra wiring, connector in fusebox)

6 hours ago, iantt said:

according to your cover its the end red 50amp fuse, could be the relay at fault , wiring from fan module to pcm, fan module, fan, etc. . put your reg into www.ford.etis and check for outstanding recall. was one for fan module issues, i can see thats not been done on your car( extra wiring, connector in fusebox)

Thanks for your response Ian - ahh ok, so I am looking in the wrong place! I've checked on the etis page, and it doesn't look like there is a recall for the car... well unless I'm reading it incorrectly:

Outstanding Field Service Actions

No Campaign Message(s) found

Would it be mentioned there? I will try Ford tomorrow and see if they are able to check too. I didn't actually check that 50a fuse, so I might give that a check too

Thanks so far and I appreciate your time!

Cheers,

Chris

have you got air con that works? , if you have, switch on aircon and check if fan works?

I also have this exact issue and came to the same conclusion as you (the missing 30A fuse) for the cooling relay circuit.  I put the fuse in but it made no difference.

Did you ever notice that slot has only one pin? I'm glad your is the same as I was worried it had become damaged.

Did you get this fixed in the end?

@iantt - Fan works with the aircon running, one of the first things I checked

hi guys 

Did any off you get anywhere with this issue?

my 2008 focus has the same issue with one pin where it says there should be a relay ?

I haven't taken the 50 amp fuse out yet should that be my first point of call?

my car engine only gets too hot when i am in traffic and the weather is humid

thanks guys all help appreciated

 

also my fan doesn't work with the air con either although the air con is very cold 

Gents,

I'm struggling to remove fuse F1 from under the bonnet, as I'm having a similar issue - engine/cooling fan is not activating. Is it a simple case of pliers and pull? Also, is this the fuse i'll need to replace it? ebay link to 50 amp fuse ... I'm a little concerned as I'm taking my FF MK2 2006 to France in a couple of weeks and want to resolve this before subjecting it to continental weather!

Bone question I know, I'm just concerned about pulling out that fuse as it doesn't seem to give and I don't want to destroy something!

If you know how to use a multimeter you can set it to volts 20 dc . And then put the earth lead on the negative battery terminal and put the red lead on the fuel metal contact points and then you should get battery voltage each side. Always check the battery voltage first. That section doesn’t have a fuse because it has a pong there f15.

HI

I have the reverse of this issue. Fan is permanently on, even if the ignition is switched off completely.

I have tested the Temp Sensor. Happy with the readings.

Cooling fan wiring from PCM - constant 12.2volt with everything switched off. This is with the cooling fan unplugged.

I have checked the wiring for corrosion - none.

I have removed all the plugs on the fuse box running from the ECU - no change

Have anyone resolved this issue?

Regards

Heinrich

The Engine cooling fan has more than one control.

Engine bay fusebox:

Fuse 2 - 30A - Engine cooling fan (Secondary fuse) Fuse 6 - 50A - Engine cooling fan (Primary fuse) Relay  3 - Cooling fan (high-speed) Relay  4 - Cooling fan (medium-speed) Relay  9 - Cooling fan relay Relay 10 - Cooling fan relay I would think that you have a stuck relay, try removing the relays one at a time and one of them should stop the fan. Also there are 2 Diodes that may have gone faulty. Diode 2 - Cooling Fan Diode Diode 4 - Cooling Fan Diode

2 hours ago, unofix said:

The Engine cooling fan has more than one control.

Engine bay fusebox:

Fuse 2 - 30A - Engine cooling fan (Secondary fuse) Fuse 6 - 50A - Engine cooling fan (Primary fuse) Relay  3 - Cooling fan (high-speed) Relay  4 - Cooling fan (medium-speed) Relay  9 - Cooling fan relay Relay 10 - Cooling fan relay I would think that you have a stuck relay, try removing the relays one at a time and one of them should stop the fan. Also there are 2 Diodes that may have gone faulty. Diode 2 - Cooling Fan Diode Diode 4 - Cooling Fan Diode

Thanks for the reply....

There is no relay for the cooling fan. That was one of the first things I thought of to check.

See images of my vehicle engine compartment fuse box.

Its like there is a direct connection from the battery to the fan.

 

Hello, thanks for the photos. That is a totally different fusebox to what I was expecting.

Please confirm the Model, Engine (Petrol/diesel) and the year.

9 hours ago, unofix said:

Hello, thanks for the photos. That is a totally different fusebox to what I was expecting.

Please confirm the Model, Engine (Petrol/diesel) and the year.

2006 Ford Focus Duratech HE 2.0 Petrol

Hi, you have a system that was only used on very late model Focus Mk2. The Cooling Fan is directly controlled by either the Engine Control Module (ECM) for normal cooling, or it can be controlled by the Air Conditioning Fan Control Module (A/C FCM).

Watch this video it will explain how your system works. You will be able to remove either the wire from the ECM or from the A/C FCM and find out which one of those modules is commanding the cooling fan to run.

 

3 hours ago, unofix said:

Hi, you have a system that was only used on very late model Focus Mk2. The Cooling Fan is directly controlled by either the Engine Control Module (ECM) for normal cooling, or it can be controlled by the Air Conditioning Fan Control Module (A/C FCM).

Watch this video it will explain how your system works. You will be able to remove either the wire from the ECM or from the A/C FCM and find out which one of those modules is commanding the cooling fan to run.

 

Thanks for the video. It does clear up some confusion regarding the relay not being present.
I'm optioning to just get a new control module. Some say you can actually just bypass the resister in the control module to prevent it from being permanently on. It will give high speed control only with the bypass.

 

Thanks Unofix

 

On 3/4/2022 at 3:26 PM, Heinrich_Fires said:

Thanks for the video. It does clear up some confusion regarding the relay not being present.
I'm optioning to just get a new control module. Some say you can actually just bypass the resister in the control module to prevent it from being permanently on. It will give high speed control only with the bypass.

 

Thanks Unofix

 

So this morning I wanted to go buy the new Control module for the radiator fan.

To my surprise the vehicle did not want to start.

Got the following DTC codes from the cluster

D900
E510
E197
E200
E199

After many youtube videos to try and get the vehicle to reset no luck.

A few moments ago I got in the vehicle and just cranked the key very quickly. It went past all the fault code. Unfortunate the battery have lost full capacity and did not want to start.

Battery on charge now, will see what happens once I fit the battery again

 

2 hours ago, Heinrich_Fires said:

Got the following DTC codes from the cluster

D900
E510
E197
E200
E199

They are not true DTC's and are of little to no help.

You need to connect a laptop computer using FORScan software and a 'vLinker FS' lead. Then and only then will you get the actual Ford specific DTC's.

14 hours ago, unofix said:

They are not true DTC's and are of little to no help.

You need to connect a laptop computer using FORScan software and a 'vLinker FS' lead. Then and only then will you get the actual Ford specific DTC's.

Yes, that is correct. I have a OBD2 code reader, did a scan and there was multiple faults.

Is there any way to bypass the ambient temp sensor?

I fitted the battery again, the vehicle actually started.

On my way to get the cooling fan module.

Okay so the Cooling fan control module was the problem.

 

Seems like all the other problems are sorted now.

 

Thanks for the help

Hi!

I have the same issue as the opener, @chris_gog:

On a hot day and stuck traffic, the thermometer in the instrument cluster has risen from the middle to three quarters. There isn't any fluid leaks, and the temperature is absolutely stable (a bit lower of the middle) in all other driving conditions.

I've a late 2005 (made in november) focus c-max 1.6 Petrol 100HP. With the same fusebox as the opener, so I suspect the fan is controlled by the PCM, as @unofix says? because I haven't the relay fan, and the fan fuse (F15) place has only one pin, like @Heinrich_Fires.

Most of time, I drive with the climate control turned on with A/C, and I never seen the temperature growing up. Yesterday, I was driven with the A/C off, then this happened.

This morning I have been observing the fan, after driving, with the engine at stabilised operating temperature, idling and with the air conditioning on, the conditioned air was coming out, not very cold, but colder than outside. You could clearly hear the compressor clutch cyclically engaging and disengaging, but the fan has not worked at any time, and the engine temperature has remained stable ... something I do not understand ... because this car has a single fan for A/C and engine cooling, am I right?! ...I will test again in a hot day.

I checked the 50A F1 fuse, and it's fine. I have a workshop manual for this car, and it doesn't say much about how to test anything on the electrical side... Any suggestions about how/what to check?

I would like to test the fan. I see that it has a thick red and a thick black wire, I understand that they are the directly positive and negative of the battery, and a thin blue wire, which is the control wire? Where should I connect the blue one? To positive or negative?

In the workshop manual, I thought I understood that the temperature sensor is just behind the engine, is that right? To access it, do I have to remove the windscreen wipers and the water box? Is there any other way to test it without disassembling?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Depending on the chassis number & age of vehicle there was a cooling fan recall on the facelift foucs's (all model's focus, focus c-max) for the cooling fan. We used to fit them on a daily bases when i worked in ford many years ago. They were fitted with an updated stronger wiring loom with a larger fuse & required reprogrammed using the ford diagnostic computer (done for free as it was a recall) so i would contact your local ford dealer asking if they can check if your vehicle was done back when the recall was released & then take it from there, 🤞🏻 for you.

Thank you, mate. I'll give Ford a call on Monday. I will come back here with the result.

I have a multimeter that can measure frequency and duty cycle, I will take the measurement on the blue wire (signal) at the fan connector. I suspect the fan never works, but I can't understand why the engine temperature doesn't rise when the aircon is on....

Have a nice weekend!!!

Hi! Finally I solved this. In my case, the electric fan control unit (located on the fan) was the responsible of the failure.

For someone who has the same system (no fan relay on fusebox), this video helped me a lot to understand how it works:

The electronic fan control unit is simply an electronic relay. Are placed on the fan, and the apparently fan connector are the upper part of this piece. Unlike a mechanical one, it can switch more than 100 times per second, so can control the fan spin in the same way as light dimmering does.

In my case, the fan never turned on, even with the AC on.

...I haven't an osciloscope, but I have a multimeter that can measure frequency and dutty cycle. I have disconnected the connector on the fan (in fact it's the control unit connector), it has three wires: two thick, one red and one black, and a thin blue signal/control wire. The red wire goes from the F1 50A, and are always connected to positive battery, even without the ignition key. The black are connected to the chassis car/negative. 

The measurements on blue wire has give me frequencies between 100 and 400hz, and dutty cycle about 20% (after starting up, cold engine, AC on). The voltage measurement was not conclusive, gives me a 2,6volts in my multimeter, but maybe the measurement can't be done without load. Or maybe my cheap multimeter aren't enough for that! XDD...

I followed the blue signal cable, it goes to the fuse box, and directly connected to the engine ECU through the width connector (same color, blue). I checked the resistence of the blue wire, between the fan connector and the fuse box connector, and this is ok. But can't check (at least no easily) the part between fusebox and ECU.

After that, I built a simple tester, for the fan+fan control unit: using faston connectors (that must be enlarged) because I won't to drill the isolation cable as YT guy does:

I connected the signal cable to positive first and negative then, and the fan doesn't started to spin in any case. So my fault must be on the unit control or in the fan engine. Then I disambled the fan control unit (it have only one bolt on top). In the bottom part, has a connector with only two pins, positive and negative that are the real fan engine connector. I connected directly the fan to the power cables , and then started to spin at full speed.

This is the part reference in my car: 940.0029.04
https://www.car-parts.ie/car-parts/aic/p-16113650

Unlike what the guy in the video says, on my cmax the fan does not turn on after a few seconds to go into test mode (or so I thought he said in his video). It only comes on if I switch on the AC, or if I leave it idling long enough for it to need to cool the radiator. In all cases I seen the spin speed about 10 or 20% of the maximum speed, so silently spin.

Hope this can help someone!

Thanks, @joemcc316! 

Good morning guys,

I have a strange problem with my cooling fan, maybe somebody has an idea because I can't get my head around ...

I have a ford focus 2005 with colling fan controlled from ECM (via PWM). My fan just never turns itself on. If I leave the car running idle for long enough, the temperature goes beyond 100°C and I get a warning message on the dashboard (temperature too hot or something like that) and the fan still doesn't run.

I have tried to connect the fan directly to 12V and it works with full speed. I bought and fitted a new FCM (controller has 3 inputs : GND, 12V and PWM blue wire and 2 outputs : GND and 12V).

I guess the temperature sensor is working properly because my dashboard temperature neddle is moving and also I have temperature readinds with a diagnostic tool linked to the OBD port.

The las thing I checked is the PWM blue wire that goes from the fuse box to the FCM and I have nothing, always 0V (checked with an oscilloscope).

Does somebody know what are the conditions for the ECM to send this PWM signal ? Maybe ECM is lacking info from an other sensor ?