Hi

Just transfered a private registration to my focus, got the plates and replaced the front ones without any issues.  However, the rear plate is proving difficult to remove.  It is held in place with what appear to be plastic/nylon  screws that have single screw driver slots.  I tried turning anti-clockwise but cannot turn more than 1/4 turn, then it springs back to original position. 

Looked online for answers but nothing seems to explain the definitive way to remove these fixings.

Just wondered if anyone could provide me with a solution.

Thanks in anticipation.

I wonder if thats a new type of fixing compared to my 2012 as mine just has screws? If no one answers try giving them a tap with a small hammer or your driver handle. Im thinking the plastic might be seized up on the threads and the shock impact could help free it. The quarter turn could literally be the screw almost snapping unless it is a special fixing. Sorry i cant give a definitive answer.

You might have to destroy the fixing to get the old plates off, most security type fasteners are designed to be attached forever. 

Have you got sufficient clearance between the head of the screw and the number plate to try try gripping it with carpenters pincers. You would then be able to grip the screw shaft, to undo with more torque than can be applied with a screwdriver.

As GMX has suggested or simply twist the screws until they snap. Then buy new replacement security fixings. There are loads about to chose from.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=anti+theft+number+plate+screws&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b&gfe_rd=cr&ei=0Bk7WNyfE8GN8Qev17uoCw

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I have a feeling rear fixings use a nut and bolt fixing. If so it seems a little strange that ford uses 2 different fixing methods for front and back number plates.

PIc below looks like the ones on rear plate. 

Will look again at it in daylight tomorrow. 

Cheers

They use different fixings because the tailgate is hollow (hrnce nuts/bolts) and the front bumper is full of foam (hence screws).

They used to fit scrivets in the rear to screw into but these tended to have a galvanic reaction beteeen the aluminium scrivets and steel screws resulting in having to rip the scrivets out and damaging the steel bodywork.

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1 hour ago, Stoney871 said:

They use different fixings because the tailgate is hollow (hrnce nuts/bolts) and the front bumper is full of foam (hence screws).

They used to fit scrivets in the rear to screw into but these tended to have a galvanic reaction beteeen the aluminium scrivets and steel screws resulting in having to rip the scrivets out and damaging the steel bodywork.

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So that being the case would I have to remove the trim inside the tailgate just to replace a number plate or could the nut part of the fixing be fixed in place?

It's all getting quite complicated lol 😞

Remove the trim and hope you can get your hands into the gap.

What I tended to do was chop the heads off the plastic bolts then reattach plates (without holes of course) with proper plate mounting tape.

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11 hours ago, Stoney871 said:

They use different fixings because the tailgate is hollow (hrnce nuts/bolts) and the front bumper is full of foam (hence screws).

They used to fit scrivets in the rear to screw into but these tended to have a galvanic reaction beteeen the aluminium scrivets and steel screws resulting in having to rip the scrivets out and damaging the steel bodywork.

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Is that a fairly new thing then Stoney as my 2012 has the Scrivets? The yard lads & lasses at dealerships that put the dealership numberplates on will have fun over the coming years then. They will probably start letting the used cars go out with any old dealers plates on!

Hi

Problem solved - sheard off the tops of the nylon screws, leveled them off flush to boot and fixed plate with double sided fixing tape from Halfords.  Hope it stays on lol.

Thanks for the useful advice and information, much appreciated.

Cheers.👍

I hope if it was plastic nuts and bolts the remnants dont fall in a cavity and forever rattle on every bump and turn. Its not like you could fish them out with a magnet! 

When I changed the plates on my old mk2 I first encountered the scrivet problem.

The screws were too big and the heads got chewed up trying to remove them.

I had to resort to a screw removal drill bit which ripped the scrivets out leaving a pair of holes with rough edges.

I used plastic nuts & bolts as a replacement but found that getting a hand inside the hatch to hold the nuts was not possible so found a length of 2" by 1" wood, cut a nut shaped hole on it and used it as a nut holder.

It was fiddly but did work.

I did actually plan to refit new scrivets to hold a plate holder so no holes would be needed in them but actually never got around to this due to changing cars 2 months later.

I still have the scrivet set, plate holders and full plate sized sticky pads floating around somewhere at home if someone wanted them.

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Is it not rivnuts fitted to the boot lid? Same as my mondeo. I've used plastic screws on mine.

Ah, that's what I actually meant.

I got rivnuts and scrivets mixed up.

I'm a rivnit.

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