Hi all new to site could really do with help looking to locate where the pats and ecu is and weather this is a easy fix or dealer. Will explain what’s happened. Have only had the car for a few weeks with no issue no lights nothing to suggest there was anything wrong was driving do the weekly shop with kids and missus pulled into Asda little bump as I turned in and the car just died like it had stalled tired bumping while still moving and nothing towed the car home started looking and no one has been having the exact problem all have been having warning signs found out the Code but don’t no where the pats is read something saying the ecu is behind the n/s/f wheel behind a cover which seems like a stupid place to be besides the fact I love puddles lol and think that if it’s where the ecu is I have done the damage myself which is not what I want to hear but anyhelp would be greatly appreciated 

What is the code?  There is a common issue with the soldering on the dash cluster (clocks), the solder dries out and it just takes a bump to break the connection.  The PATS goes through the cluster.

To answer the original question, the PATS system is part of the GEM (fusebox) under the glovebox.  The engine ECU is located in front of the NSF wheel, but it's inside a solid plastic case, I don't see any water getting in there tbh.  I had to remove mine a couple of years ago and it was fine, I drive through puddles and rural floods etc as well.

 

Code is 16 so the hole cluster needs to come out and be repaired? How much would it cost? And that’s good to no that I haven’t damaged the ecu but have had a further look and noticed the battery has been leaking but still works looks as tho someone cut the handle of it and cut too much as you can see the fluid through the two very nice holes they’ve put in it don’t no it that would be a cause of it?

On the Focus MK2/MK2.5 the PATS system basically consist of 4 parts:

1. Instrument cluster.
2. PCM.
3. PATS transponder receiver at the ignition switch.
4. Transponders inside each ignition key.

The transponder serial numbers are stored inside the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is synchronised with the PCM (PATS pairing or PATS initialization). The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the CANbus network. When the signal of a PATS transponder is received the instrument cluster compares the transmitted serial number with the ones that are stored inside the instrument cluster. Only if the transponder serial number matches and the instrument cluster and PCM are correctly synchronised the PATS system deactivates.

Okay will have to do some more digging take the cluster out and check the key and transponder on ignition. Car started drive about 150 yards turn into Asda car park little bump and cut out so something knocked lose or broke just annoyed that it’s happened only a few weeks after owning the car and so close to Xmas 

1 hour ago, Needhelp said:

will have to do some more digging take the cluster out and check the key and transponder on ignition. Car started drive about 150 yards turn into Asda car park little bump and cut out so something knocked lose or broke

If you are getting PATS code 16, then the Cluster (IC) is the first suspect.

You have to be a bit careful when removing it, the clear plastic cover is easy to crack, and can not be bought as a spare. There are lugs at the top of the cluster that dig into the fascia. First remove the two screws at the bottom, then you need a flat knife or old credit card to locate them, and to protect the cluster edge when levering up the soft(ish) fascia. The cluster comes out top first.

When removed, you can either send it away for repair (about £100), or strip it and examine it yourself. I have done a guide to this, and there are Youtubes, as I expect you know. If you can remove the gauge needles and see the circuit board, have a close look at the soldering on the back of the main connector, using a magnifier and strong light. Cracks or dry joints show up as tiny dark lines in the solder joints.

Other, less likely possibilities are the connectors low down just in front of the passenger door. The CAN bus passes through these, and also the big connector in the engine bay fuse box. This is close to your leaking battery, so needs to be looked at carefully. A battery with holes in the outer casing sounds very, very dodgy! I would get rid of that as soon as possible.

The cable loom to the ECU runs almost under the battery. It is probably a good idea to open up the plastic housing to have a look at the connections to the ECU. It is in front of the nearside front wheel, you need to remove the wheel and the wheel arch trim. There is an access door in the housing, which is actually part of the main engine air intake system, so it gets plenty of ventilation and should stay dry. You will not see much of the ECU, as it has a metal shield preventing removal of the connector, fixed on by a security (headless) bolt. But bad corrosion here should be visible if present.

Basically anything which obstructs communications between the IC & the PCM (ECU) can cause this error code.

A diagnostic system like Forscan would help, as it will display any error codes due to communication failures, I had loads when my cluster went, and I needed Forscan to clear the "permanent" CMDTCs after I fixed the bad solder joint.

One repair place that has been recommended is:

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/make/ford

My little guide is here:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491

thanks will def be checking all wiring near to the battery tray and all connectors and the site you’ve gave seems really good and good price so def going to speak to my local garage to see if they do forscan as only small garage but if not would it be to the main dealers as I would rather eliminate before I start with repairs 

3 hours ago, Needhelp said:

going to speak to my local garage to see if they do forscan as only small garage but if not would it be to the main dealers as I would rather eliminate before I start with repairs 

Forscan is a diy system, it only costs from £16 for the adapter. A main dealer will use the Ford IDS system, which can cost up to £100 per use. There are a lot of other systems about, but I think Forscan is the most capable system (for Fords) apart from the official Ford IDS system.

If you are not confident with electrical tests & repairs, ask your garage if they know that a CAN bus should measure 60 ohms from line to line when powered down. This is a quick way to test if there is a connection problem between the IC & PCM, it is in my guide.

Yes, before sending the IC away, do test the other connections. otherwise it could be up to £100 down the drain!

On 11/26/2017 at 11:48 AM, TomsFocus said:

What is the code?  There is a common issue with the soldering on the dash cluster (clocks), the solder dries out and it just takes a bump to break the connection.  The PATS goes through the cluster.

To answer the original question, the PATS system is part of the GEM (fusebox) under the glovebox.  The engine ECU is located in front of the NSF wheel, but it's inside a solid plastic case, I don't see any water getting in there tbh.  I had to remove mine a couple of years ago and it was fine, I drive through puddles and rural floods etc as well.

 

Hi Tom, I slid into some tractor tyre tracks on side of road and pulled all my wheel arch liner and under tray off including ECU holder. Found ECU holder for replacement, but how do I take off the housing from the ECU ? Just looks like studs both sides. I need to replace housing. And loom but that's another story.

 

4 minutes ago, Simmo80 said:

Hi Tom, I slid into some tractor tyre tracks on side of road and pulled all my wheel arch liner and under tray off including ECU holder. Found ECU holder for replacement, but how do I take off the housing from the ECU ? Just looks like studs both sides. I need to replace housing. And loom but that's another story.

Well that's not ideal!  

They are security bolts.  They come with a Torx head that snaps off when they reach the correct tension.  So in order to remove them, you have to cut a slot into the flat surface (side shown on my pic), and then use a screwdriver to wind them out.  

New bolts look similar to this - 

On 12/9/2022 at 2:13 PM, TomsFocus said:

Well that's not ideal!  

They are security bolts.  They come with a Torx head that snaps off when they reach the correct tension.  So in order to remove them, you have to cut a slot into the flat surface (side shown on my pic), and then use a screwdriver to wind them out.  

New bolts look similar to this - 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333746023420?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=IljYSNJ4Rpq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=cmrVhlhqQFC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Just in case anyone is looking for them