Sign in to follow this  
SunnyDay

Ford Focus 58 plate - 1.6tdci 110 - Vehicle will cut out after 15 to 20 minutes off running

Recommended Posts

I would be grateful for any advice on the below problem (new to using online forums, but running out of options). Thanks for your help and time in advance.

Problem: A few months ago I had to change my DPF and the Turbo, the car cut out on me twice and the garage I took it to said it was down to the turbo fue to the DPF, so I changed that (turbo) and the DPF as it needed changing. But the problem happened again and then became persistent, so I took it to a main dealer (Trust Ford), first time in, they checked it said it was a loose wiring harness, so paid for the work and got about 10 miles down the road from the garage and problem was still there, so back I went and they then said it was the High Pressure Fuel Pump as the error code was ‘P0087 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure -Too Low’, so got that changed at cost of 1200... :( they had checked all the wire/fuses again, no problems. So again left Trust Ford and another 10 miles and again it cuts out, so back I go to Trust Ford and they have the vehicle for 2 weeks and they then stated it’s the Turbo, I advised them that it had already been changed, another week and they then said it is the ECU and it will cost 2000 (getting close to what the vehicle is worth), at this point they don’t or are unable to guarantee that will fix they problem, so I took the vehicle back and I am trying to fix it my self, as I like my car and I want to keep it (don’t like to destroy things that can be fixed).

———————

So, the story so far...

***Work done garage:

- DPF (new) and the Turbo (reconditioned).

- High Pressure Fuel Pump (new) + Sensor.

Fuel filter (new).

Problem: vehicle will run for about 15 to 20 minutes off running before it cuts out, it will then not restart (possible hot start issue) However if I leave the car for a few hours or so, the vehicle will start, and run for 15 to 20 minutes off running before it cutting out.

***Work done by me:

Firstly took out the Injectors, all checked and are working fine. (Replaced copper washers and seals).

This work limited the problem, the car would run for 3 to 4 hours before the problem happened.

Problem still there, so

Took out the EGR valve and cleaned and replaced it.

The problem has started to to happen again, were it will cut out after 15 to 20 minutes off running.

- Changed the CrackShaft sensor (new).

Replaced EGR valve (new).

Same problem continues, running for 15 to 20 minutes and the cuts out, but now unable to start and the ‘traction control warning light’ is on. Vehicle would start, got the below error codes.

P1180 - Fuel delivery system- low

P0193 - FRP sensor high input

U2023 - Vehicle communication network fault

The vehicle won’t start, you have to leave it for a few days and then ‘traction control warning’ light goes off and it will the start up.

***Next step: take out the ECU and get it tested.

I would be grateful for any advice?

Thank you for your time and help, it’s greatly appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, SunnyDay said:

P1180 - Fuel delivery system- low

P0193 - FRP sensor high input

U2023 - Vehicle communication network fault

The vehicle won’t start, you have to leave it for a few days and then ‘traction control warning’ light goes off and it will the start up.

Sorry to hear about such a nasty & expensive problem sad.png.

What diagnostic system are you using? It is odd that there are no ABS or similar codes, which I would expect with the traction control light on. Many standard scanners will not read the ABS module, just the ECU / PCM or even just the OBD2 codes.

The only thing I can think of doing is to log the fuel rail pressure, and a few other sensors, while it is running, and see if that gives some clue. Forscan can log these, and read all Modules in most Fords, including Mk2 Focus.

It does sound like a wiring loom problem, some control or sensor signal is not getting to the ECU as the engine warms up maybe. If the ECU has to be removed anyway, to test it, I would try to buzz through the wiring from the ECU connector to the engine before sending it away for test or repair. It would not be easy, but the wiring diagram is on this site:

http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42087

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this