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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2016 in all areas

  1. I love watching birds, but annoyingly live in a street with a million (slight exaggeration..) cats. So there are not many visiting the garden. Having a pet parrot however has given me practice of taking their photos. Rather proud of this one - Also, my £6 number plate surrounds turned up. They are a surprisingly good match to the glossy black front grill and seem to hold the new metal plates very well. Sometimes buying cheap does work out it seems!
    5 points
  2. It's said they can let a little more noise out, might marginally improve throttle response if you give the ECU time to re-learn. Mainly for the looks though if on stock map.
    3 points
  3. Washing my car? HA! Yeah...doesn't really happen lol Maybe half a dozen washes in the 3 and half years of ownership lol
    2 points
  4. YOu and me both, I finally got paid at dinnertime today and technically I can't spend any of it as it's all gone on bills lol Best jeans I've had for longetivity are from primark. I usually work my cloths that if they don't fit or they're looking a bit worse for wear they get demoted to going to play with cow poo. Just demoted some !Removed! ones that I'll currently wearing and they are already ripping around the crotch. Next ones are awful for wearing as well, demoted 4 pairs of next jeans to work jeans(all 36 waist, I'm now a 32) and they've all ended up in the charity bag as they've all ripped I tend to shop at next, or Ben Sherman at Cheshire oaks. I always have button fly as well for the exact same reason as you, was living at nan and grandads at the time. Nan shouts me, " Matt why have you got blood in your underwear", caught myself in my zip nan. All I heard was Grandad peeing himself laughing lol
    2 points
  5. My wardrobe is a miscellanea of brands Recent purchases were Asos, Wrangler and a brand of not heard of before Western Trading Co. Following a teenage incident with a metal zip and some delicate skin: I've always bought button flies
    2 points
  6. Taking advantage of the space, like to talk about my channel and a friend on Youtube, I talking about adaptations, maintenance, tutorials, etc .. in MK5 and my friend in MK7. My channel is Raphael MK5 Chanceler My friend's channel is Igor Grun MK7 Who can passes there, watch the videos, your Like, shares to give that strength and is inscribed in the channel to receive updates and also help us. Thank you. Introducing the Chancellor to the folks. More than a passion. Soon more pictures of it 100%.
    1 point
  7. My tool box has got a little worse for wear being in my van. So have put a set of draws in the van. The tool box will be used in the garage for now on. Wasn't looking the best. Removed stickers, handles, lock and badges......and then removed all the rust, a lot more than I thought. Then, filled badge holes, etch primered the bare metal, and filler primered the bare metal parts. Next, I'll sand it down to blend it in, and primer the hole box and draw fronts.
    1 point
  8. I didn't think it had been sold either Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  9. So would i be if it was mine as it seems you've got a good knack of doing this type of restoration 8) ..
    1 point
  10. This still looks great no matter where i see it and i'm really looking forward to seeing it after you've had the smart repair done next month ;) ..
    1 point
  11. Sorry I missed this before! Will try to answer the latest questions though. 500c ish is the temp you need for regen on these (it's lower on the later coated DPFs), so yes that's what was happening there. There is only one temperature sensor on these DPFs, 2 on the later ones. The lowest temperature it can read is 100c so that's normal. Pressure is an interesting one as no-one seems to know what it should be! 9.4kPa at a constant 80mph does seem a bit high though, in fact 3-6kPa while driving is a bit high as well, should be less than that while cruising, but spike when you accelerate. Ash is what's left in the DPF after the soot has been burnt in the regen, there is no way the ash can get out so that's what builds up over time and eventually blocks the DPF. I never did work out how is that PID is accurate or if it's just working from the mileage (the DPF should be full of ash and changed at 75k miles), how many miles is yours on now? That PID would suggest the DPF is getting to the end of it's lifespan, as does the pressure to me.
    1 point
  12. Hi, new Ford Focus ST-3 owner and loving it :) new too the site aswell
    1 point
  13. Those compression figures look ok, so if no visible oil leaks anywhere, then valve stem seals must be the next likely culprit.
    1 point
  14. Thanks :-) A bit of luck, some patience and a quick camera can do wonders!
    1 point
  15. Hi Peter Final update with some findings I've discovered using Forscan, which I was hoping you could give your views on if you don't mind. Had to drive today, so thought I'd plug in Forscan and get some live data, see if I noticed anything. During the drive I had to pull up at some traffic lights and noticed the weird idling again, as I pulled away the car seemed to hesitate a bit. My partner was in the car looking at the Forscan data when this started and noticed the PPFT temperature reading started to climb quite quickly. Over the period of the next 6 or 7 minutes the temperature reading was in the mid to high 400'C range, peaking to 560'C, I'm presuming this was a regen as when the temperature reading went back down to normal operating temp the reading for 'distance since last regen trial' (or something like that) reset itself to 0.0km. The whole process lasted between 9 and 10 minutes. I also noticed that the DP DPF reading went up during this period and peaked at 10.4kPa, but was mainly around 8.0kPa - 9.0kPa. Should the pressure reading have got this high during a regen? For the rest of the journey the pressure readings were mainly between 3.0kPa and 6.0kPa, obviously fluctuating due to driving style, however I did get it up to 9.4kPa, at which time I was doing 80mph on the dual carriageway. Would you mind telling me what you make of this info if you don't mind me asking? I also had the PID DIS_ASHFULL running at the same time and noticed that as I was driving this reading was going up. It went from 3504.1km up to 3508.0km.Any ideas why this would have increased as I would have been under the impression that it would have gone down. This is presuming the PID is for how full the DPF filter is obviously. I would be really grateful to hear what you think about this info I've added, and thanks for your help in using Forscan, it really has helped me out a lot.
    1 point
  16. No wing nut there - someone has stolen it! ;-) Seriously though, the MK 6 did have said nuts as do 7 and 7.5. Must have been a design change on 6.5. I guess the grommets on yours are worn which is causing the loose light. We learn something every day :-)
    1 point
  17. looking good mate and when are you going to tint your rear lights as I done mine but not to happy with them
    1 point
  18. Car looks very nice - good, subtle improvements all round. Have you thought about lowering? It sharpens up the handling and looks great. Also, when you get the wheels refurbed are you going to keep the same colour? I think something darker such as anthracite could work really well.
    1 point
  19. As ian said, in line current testing is the best way to work out whats going on, pulling fuses in sequence will help isolate a dodgy circuit, just make sure you have left the car door open, if you o0en the door after leaving it for 30 min the car will wake up again, open the bonnet, open a door and leave it, you will see on the multimeter the current draw will drop, hopefully to <100mA. a quick and easy test is to see if the cluster tunes off after about 25min the screen should be off, if its not then something might be keeping the car alive, if your not doing long drives it could simply just not have enough time to fully charge it.
    1 point
  20. I'm not sure what measurement your working in with those values but its been a long time since I have done a compression test. As far as I can remember you may need to disconnect the coil and remove the spark plugs and also pull out the fuel pump fuse, this will stop fuel going into cylinders and making mess when your testing. If you do 2 test one dry and one wet you will check 8 readings 4 on each test. The dry test start from cylinder 1 and connect your compression gauge and turn the engine over about 5 goes and take the reading, Do this for the other three cylinders working in order (example 2,3,4) . Then do the wet test which is the same only squirt a few drop of engline oil (not too much) into cylinder one and connect the compression guage again and turn over engine. On the 5th crank stop and take the reading. Do this in turn for the other 3 cylinders. when you have this done you should have 2 tests a dry and a wet with 4 readings each, (** Table below is only an example using the values you give) Test Cy1 Cy2 Cy3 Cy4 Dry 12.0 12.5 12.5 12.5 Wet 12.9 12.9 12.8 12.9 Now what you need to look for is consistency along the cylinders on each test. The wet test will rise the values a little as the oil will seal any piston ring to up the reading on the test. As a rule of thumb some say you can have 15% -30% difference between your highest and lowest reading, so basically if you are saying you are getting 12.5 15% of this is 1.875. so if we minus that from your highest 12.5 -1.875 we get 10.625. Now compare that with your lowest reading with is 12.0 and its higher than 10.625 (the 15% margin). so In this example I would say that the engine compression is ok, No I only am going from an old method I used to use on my escort and fiesta days from the 1990's but it always seemed to work out fine. although others here in the forum may be fit to give more detailed advice on compression tests and what the actual margin is although 15% I would say should still be ok to work with. Also your spark plugs should give a good indication of the condition of your engine if you look at the ends of them, pay attention the the colour and condition of each plug. Low power could be caused by a few things on your car so your should check all of them when you get the compression checked. Fuel pump pressure, air intake , Vacuum leaks and coil pack are main area to look at as well. Also the car may be in LIMP mode which should show a EML light on the dash as well, so In this case a good code reader or forscan should be useful to see whats happening. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  21. When directhoses is out of stock, use Monstershine mate! www.yorkshiredetailing.co.uk - approved resellers of the Highest quality Detailing & Valeting supplies
    1 point
  22. I would hope and iPhone 6s is compatible for Bluetooth 😂 Thanks I will try that 👌🏻
    1 point
  23. Ghana, I think your chances of becoming Wildlife Photographer of the year are just slightly less than mine! But the blueberries look good though. This was my effort to photograph an un-cooperative robin. It took quite a while even for this. (A bit unseasonal, I am afraid, but I gave up trying, after that.)
    1 point
  24. i check current draw using multimeter in series with battery and a fused wire with crocodile clips attatched while operating central locking ( this stops multimeter fuse from blowing) with bonnet latch locked or switch connector bridged having same effect. then fused wire off, check draw over a 45 min timescale. systems dont go to sleep much before 25 mins.
    1 point
  25. they were ford original tyres fitted at the factory on lots of fiestas over numerous years, all went the same way i saw.
    1 point
  26. Or perhaps also fit some sort of cap over them too to protect the threads from the elements, as you say not a great from a safety perspective!
    1 point
  27. Update. Car went in today, and they had a look at it. Technician apparently had it hooked up to the computer and was seeing what looked pretty normal. When playing around, he couldn't get the problem to recreate that I'd specifically been seeing, but did notice when he switched to DAB 2 the entire system locked up. However when I went to pick it up I demonstrated the problem I was having and recreated it. Ford are aware of DAB specific issues, and claim they are working on a fix for this. But they haven't seen my specific problem. He's raised it to a higher level and he's awaiting a response from Ford. He also said about obtaining another module be it Sync or one of the other bits just to test out of curiosity more than anything I think. He also mentioned to me about software updates and how they're not allowed to do them on Sync 2 devices. We did however have a good discussion about accessing them from the international Ford sites, and that the UK is "coming soon".
    1 point
  28. Put a jubilee clip on the throttle body hose, as it was missing.......and the car is booked for smart repair at the end of the month. :) front bumper is being painted and repaired, all the previous touch up paint is getting cleaned up and blended in. Rust under wing mirror is being treated and then painted. Any other chips or scratches are being touched in. Then the whole car will be mopped. Decided to go down this route, as didn't want the cost of different panels being fully painted and blended in. Then someone open a door into it, in a car park or something......Just want it clean and tidy. :) Only down side is I can't polish it till its done now lol
    1 point
  29. I want the background the same colour as my car and the writing in either chrome or black. My car is a quite unique colour though, Ford call it Ivory but people mistake it for gold, beige or even green sometimes! I can't find any at all on Amazon. Beginning to give up hope. :-(
    1 point
  30. Thanks for the welcome guys as i'm loving being on here already ..
    1 point
  31. Hi n welcome to the friendly crew
    1 point
  32. http://www.fordpartsuk.com
    1 point
  33. So, just had the new tyre fitted... Turned out the old one had been run flat for so long it was full of rubber lumps inside which were causing the wheel bearing noise lol. Though that does mean it was damaged before I got it, not on the pothole that I thought it was!
    1 point
  34. Hi all. My name's Naomi and I drive a 2010 Ford Ka Zetec TDCI in a rather unique colour Ford call Ivory but I've had everything from green (???) to gold suggested! He's my pride and joy. I bought him from Trustford in May 2015 when I started my driving lessons. I passed my test on May 11th 2016 and have loved every minute of driving my Ka. I've never seen another Ka this colour, saw a Fiesta but not ever a Ka and with him being a diesel too it makes him one of a kind as far I know (until someone tells me differently!). I'd love to get some custom badges and wheel caps but nobody seems to do them which is really frustrating because I see them on other people's cars! I'm half tempted to tap on their windows and ask where they got them but I might get arrested for being a weirdo! Anyway, I digress. Looking forward to being a member and might see you all out on the road!
    1 point
  35. Decided to do the draw trims with some truck bed liner paint I had. Love the finish of this stuff. :) Painted a black base coat on the box, then a couple of coats of alloy wheel silver, and just a light coating on lacquer......as I wanted a industrial sort of look. Came out ok, I think lol. :) Got some stickers to go on yet when the paint has hardened.
    1 point
  36. Hi Paul, To be completely honest, so am I (rather novice!) I used Forscan to help solve a nasty problem with my Instrument Cluster, and saw that it was a (relatively) easy tool to use, and a very powerful tool. I did play around with the live monitoring a bit, but not for any serious work, so I know it is there, but am not an expert. The term used for these monitoring functions is "PID", and there should, in one of the menus, be a list of the PIDs (quite a long list I suspect), that are valid for your car. Read the list, looking for terms like DPF, DP, Pressure Drop, Exhaust temperature, EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature), or similar. You then select a list of PIDs to monitor, and I think an icon then appears at the bottom of the screen to start monitoring. (You probably need to be connected to the car even to read the list of PIDs, so the software knows what is is dealing with.) (DP means Differential Pressure, = Pressure Difference) Some other PIDs that May appear are: mileage when the last regen was done (DSLCR), mileage when last regen attempted (DSLRT) and time in minutes since last regen (TESLRT). As far as values go, I would start with the engine not running (ignition must be on), and cold. Then EGT values around ambient and a DP near zero would be right. Then start the engine, see if the EGT values rise, I would expect around 80C to 150C to be reasonable for idle. The DP should rise, a few kPa at idle, rising smoothly as the revs rise. I suspect values much over 10kPa indicate a blockage. (1Bar = 14.5PSI = 100kPa, so 10kPa is 1.5PSI) Really you are looking for unexpected jumps, or significant errors (silly readings). Small calibration errors would be hard to find without special equipment, but are much less likely. After my last Post, I did see that Tom had answered your other entry. He is very knowledgeable, and has the same engine as you, so he may be able to give you more, or better information. All I can think of at present, Peter.
    1 point
  37. Cheers mate, it's getting there. :D Cheers mate, yours looked mint. :D It was & was very highly specced. Note cruise control in pic. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  38. Awesome turnaround Always loved the st170. Going back still badly miss my mk1.5 2.0 zetec esp. Yunii Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
    1 point
  39. Ordered some Genuine Ford mats today, also found some 12v blanks for the 2 12v sockets. Then a good wash and wax. Love the magnum grey after a wax. :D
    1 point
  40. Re-done my gear knob as I didn't like the red, so done it in dark grey. Looks loads better. :) Also repaired scuffs, and re lacquered the mirror from the new mirror as it's a better fit. Plus then I'll have a spare one lol.
    1 point
  41. Since I brought the car, its had a broken mirror that vibrates and wobbles about, as the clips in side broken. I found one on Ebay and won it for £1.04 lol Before After Happy days :D
    1 point
  42. Finally got rid of the horrific dash this evening!! It's no secret I cant stand anything non-standard inside my cars lol, but why people colour code dash's I don't know, worst part is it was shiny so reflecting off the windscreen and obviously the paint all cracked in the heat. Then of course there's the single DIN stereo in a double DIN hole with one of those cheap, nasty, useless cubbys, neither of which fit the adapter properly, and obviously you can't use the steering controls and end up with no clock display and a gaping hole on the dash computer...so yeah, people go to a lot of time and expense to ruin things and I really don't get it... Before Removed New stuff in, yay! :D Better already...but I don't have any Ford specific stereo keys so better make sure the code works before pushing it home lol. Bought it cheap to due to lack of code...no problem though. Woop, code works, radio works...miles better reception and sound quality than the aftermarket crap!! Wasn't expecting this though lol, thought the time would pop up there, not the station...cant really see the point haha, the Focus doesn't do that! All standard again, so much nicer, best thing I've done to it I think lol!! The awful dash and rubbish stereo will be for sale if anyone wants them...I'm no salesman as you can tell haha. Also, could one of the staff move this thread to the 'build thread' forum, didn't even realise we had one of those lol. @alexp999 or @stef123 maybe? Not really sure who else is staff on here, I don't get into forum politics lol.
    1 point
  43. Just had proper 4 wheel alignment done...Surprising how much better it drives when the wheels are pointing the same way. Steering wheel is dead straight now and there's no wheel wobble up to...err...70 of course. Seriously though, this is the first time I've actually been pleased with wheel alignment, definitely worth paying extra for it done properly rather than through one of the chains imo!!
    1 point
  44. Today, me and a few other guys attended Ford In The Park at Kingsbury Water Park. The weather was terrible but attendance wasn't bad at all! Managed to get a few pictures still. Here are a few for your perusal: Managed to bag myself a cheeky gloss rear wiper too for the focus from PaintModz! Must say it looks so much better and blends nicely with the privacy glass:
    1 point
  45. Had a slightly more productive day today lol... Sorted the air con as in the other thread using these - Followed up with an air con bomb to freshen it up inside and then added a blue Jelly Belly as fed up with magic trees that only last half an hour. Theyre also on offer in Tesco atm so the Focus got a black one lol. Also swapped the green 'someone was gullible enough to pay for nitrogen in their tyres' dust caps for some black ones as the green kept drawing my eye in annoying way, added an extra colour that didn't match anything. Removed 3 remaining mudflaps also. Give it a quick wash (hope Kieran doesn't read this bit lol)...single bucket, watering can, window cleaner, quick detailer and tyre black. Tried the Sea Grey touch up on an alloy...they're very much NOT sea grey though so quickly gave up there lol. Then yellowed the fogs with some amberlight that I had spare. Not sure how bad they look now as it rained shortly after but we'll see I guess lol.
    1 point
  46. as promised here are 3 better pics of my car just after a good wash
    1 point
  47. New Bosch S4 battery fitted. 25% more cranking power. Now starts straight away! :D
    1 point
  48. Well, got the head on, new dizzy, new spark plugs, new cam belt, thermostat housing with new thermostat, new fuel pump, all with new gaskets. Rocker cover fitted, then fitted the inlet manifold. Head on. Getting there. Then a step backwards, tighten inlet manifold, carb was fowling rocker cover. All looked ok, then ping! Update on the car. All prepped. First coat of primer.
    1 point




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