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Not since gaining my 20m breast stroke swimming badge have I been so proud! 😀

Just checking out PumaSpeed sales of replacement Ecoboom 1.0 engines and they claim to have sold 468. Of course we have no way of knowing why 468 owners decided to fit a new engine but I'd like to bet Ford have replaced at least the same number, and then there are those selling second hand/refurbished engines. So just making the numbers easy lets say a nice round 1000 replaced and assume only half of them were because of cam belt failure that would still mean 500 poor Ecoboom owners have had to pay at least £3000 and in many cases probably double that. I can only think the 0.01% is "Ford's truth" a bit like the version of events that prince Harry gives !

Just checking the clip again and Matt did say that. Hard to find a total production figure but a Ford press release I found said 1.6 million had been sold 2012-2019. After that the chain drive versions started to appear though the wet belt continued in some versions. So let's say 2 million as a nice round figure. 0.01% of that is only 200 and we've probably had that many on this forum alone, so a ludicrous figure. Big fib from Ford or c*ck up by the Beeb?

Tom, that is just weird, the internet is full of cr*p, but for the life of me, I can't find a clip showing that engine destruction! Maybe Ford took out some kind of injunction in case folk got the idea that their engines blow up 🤣

I certainly don't either, just googled the topic and that came up. Pretty familiar stuff. Interesting though that Ford claimed (assuming I heard It right) that the failure rate was "less than 0.01%" !! It will be on BBC iPlayer, but I can't check as I'm up at our caravan at the mo and my iPlayer password is at home (in a file with the other million different passwords that you are recommended to have these days rather than just "password"!😃)

Just a word of caution: Don't try this with any lithium battery (eg. CR2032) as short-circuiting the cell can very quickly cause a run away chain reaction and the cell may burst in to flames even a few minutes after the 'test' has been removed.

Labour time should be 0.7 hrs

'Pedestrian behind - do you wish to run them over?'

That's a chain driven 1.0 EcoBoost. Sounds like an injector but it could easily just be something loose externally tapping on the engine as it shakes at idle. If you can hold anything loose while it's tapping that might help pinpoint the noise. Obviously don't put your hand near the belts or keep hold of any scorching hot parts.

The guidance may have changed at some time because when I had Diesel cars I was always took my cars for their MOT at the same place and I was always asked if the Cambelt was in need of replacement before the test. Maybe it was just that Garage and they had some bad experiences before.

The BBC should have asked me to participate, I could have shown the viewers ALL the affected parts 🤓

This should be my 500th post on this wonderful forum. I wasn't sure where to post it, so this seamed a good place. I don't think it warrants a new thread, that may be saved for my 1k post. On the first car forum joined there actually is a thread dedicated for just these things and have posted quite a few times up to my 6k post (twice due to deleted threads!). Here's to the next 500. 🍺 P.S I got a new badge for it "Posting Machine" 😎 I wonder when I change Rank (Proficient to Experienced).

Just watched it. They said 0.01% of ALL EcoBoost engines produced globally. No mention of 1.0 or wetbelt engines. So that presumably includes every EcoBoost size and every type of belt or chain drive. This is exactly the kind of thing that frustrates me with any 'statistics'...they're never actually real, always tweaked in the favour of the person giving them.

UPDATE: I have changed the EGR valve with a new one that I got for a fair price (it's this one - link, however I payed significantly less since it was wholesale price for my cousins workshop). Since there was an issue with the fuel rail pressure (FRP) sensor, I initially wanted to replace only the EGR valve and see if the FRP sensor issue will resolve itself (as I mentioned here in the thread), as I have found in one video that short-circuited EGR valve can cause problems with FRP sensor. Nevertheless, when I dismantled the EGR valve, I found out that the FRP sensor is located just below the valve (see attached photo), so it would be pain in the *** to dismantle the new EGR again just to replace the FRP sensor in case it was faulted. As such, we ordered new sensor (this one - link), that came in couple of hours while the hood was opened and EGR dismantled, and replaced both FRP sensor and the EGR valve. After changing both, we reset EGR learned values through diagnostic tool (before turning on the engine). After that, we deleted the faulty codes and started the engine. I also read that you should let it idle for 5 minutes before driving so that the software learns to work with the new EGR valve, and after 5 minutes we took it for a drive. No shutting off so far, and I noticed increase in output straight away. As such, the whole problem was solved for around 90 euros, and I can imagine if I just sent it to a workshop, it wouldn't take so short and I would ended up paying significantly more. Nevertheless, I had the privilege of working in my cousins workshop (it's a tire workshop/garage) and the prices were also lower since they buy directly from wholesale. I have read that many of you guys had issues with the EGR shortly after replacing it, so I hope that it won't happen in my case. Good luck with your endeavours! Also thank you for your comments. Cheers!

Ever thought of working for The Samaritans with that positive outlook?

Just shows 2 issues. 1. Shortage of mechanics for the amount of vehicles on the road. Waiting a week or more is not uncommon at alot of garages 2. What mechanics there are at garages generally tend not to be proper mechanics with good basic diagnostic skills. Too many fitters and not enough skilled in the trade.

Or Cyclist! Yes but in Capitals, bold and underlined

This is one of those jobs that I'd be happy to take to any decent independent garage. The job itself is straight forward, although as Tom says difficult to get at. There is no way I'd be spending the money at at Ford dealers on this occasion. You can buy online a brand new OEM starter motor for around £120 and add on a couple of hours labour at what ever your local garage charges.

I think you'll be surprised how expensive starters are from a main dealer, especially considering Ford don't actually make them. I'd estimate around £200. Bit awkward to change on the 1.0EB as they're behind the engine and above the driveshaft. Would estimate around 2 hours labour. So semi-educated guess would be rough ballpark of £400 all in. This is a job that an indy could do with a decent branded used part for around £100 all in.

I'm hoping that was a joke! at least my car is white, but I wouldn't use bleach on it

Back to the Future 😉

In 1949?

In conversations with Unofix we both have old XP lappies mines a Sony Vaio FS315B. After much playing and hair pulling on my part, i can confirm, NO Linux derivative will install as it looks for drivers. None of the windows Tiny series will install due again to missing drivers i think Nvdiia. But and heres the kicker standard Win 7 WILL install and run, you then just wade in and dump all the garbage you dont need, If your desperate for a browser try Pale Moon works quite well. Am meaning mainly for those that want to run FORscan on a cheap can be picked up for £20.00 lappy, 2Gb Ram 60Gb HDD and yes it does run the afformentioned FORscan and very well even the extended licence version. Also runs ELM config. Hopefully this helps someone,

Use the ChipEx website - enter a reg for a quote and the VIN is in the address bar.

Various sections of the media are still catching up with Rowans article today. Plus there are mentions of some operators public EV charging rates having almost doubled in the last 12 months. The story about some multi-stories needing strengthening to cope with the extra weight of EVs continues to circulate, while the Asphalt Industry Alliance is predicting even more potholes for the same reason.

Ecoboost is a generic term for a range of ford engines. Carbon build up is known to affect the 2.7 v6 , so taking Google info at face value is not a good idea unless your more specific with which ecoboost. Even then there's still a lot of nonsense from keyboard warriors who read headlines without investigating first.

You also gotta love Rowan for another fact. He holds the UK record for the highest monetary car insurance claim of £910,000 when he crashed his McLaren F1 in 2011 - legend!

Window cleaner should take that off, ideally one with a bit of vinegar in it. I'm yet to see an 'acceptable' valet from a dealership. Wish they'd never touched my brand new Focus!

I agree but just thought other people must have a way of cleaning it, and it would be easier to ask on here and do it myself. I might try the WD40 approach and see what happens. If the windows fall out or the car blows up I'll report back and recommend you don't try that! 😂

Unofix must be slipping!

Really interesting article by Rowan Atkinson on electric vehicles. He's not just a 'celebrity;, but has a degree in electrical engineering, and admittedly is a die hard petrolhead, owning many exotic and expensive cars. https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2023/jun/03/electric-vehicles-early-adopter-petrol-car-ev-environment-rowan-atkinson

To add to Tom's excellent advice, I would also have the Accelerator Position up on FORScan too. When reviewing the Info later it might show that you were doing 2000 rpm and 50 mph at a certain point, but that may have been coasting downhill or accelerating up one, so it makes more sense if you know the Engine Load at that point also. Take some Screenshots of the readings at Idle, cruising and under hard acceleration and post them. I don't know if you have erased the Codes and if any apart from the DPF one have come back, but if you go into the Codes in FORScan it will tell you if the problem is still present or an old code and whether that particular code is making the Check Engine Light come on. The other thing to note is that if you have an aftermarket Pressure Sensor then that may be your problem, they are not the same quality and some of them are not compatible. I would not normally swap parts on a guess but in this case if the readings in FORScan point to a fault, a cheap used Pressure Sensor with the same part number from a Breakers may be a good Idea to try. FORScan will also give you a brief description of the Code, which is the same one that we could all access in ETIS before they stopped public access to it. Personally I would disagree with Tom and do the Data Logging with the Check Engine Light off in case the readings are skewed because the car is in Limp Mode. It is not that important though and may not make any difference to the readings.

Slower, heavier and uglier?

Make sure and come back and tell us how you get on. May well be other owners with the same issue.

@TomsFocus@unofix you guys are usually very knowledgeable. The YouTube link for ‘engine bay’ is pretty good. I’ve no idea as usual. *can’t remember other usernames

They are genuine brand new Ford engines. Just bought in bulk to get a lower price than buying from Ford dealerships individually.

Well, says it's supplied by Ford so the same I guess.

With a bit of the colour of the car to give us all a clue 👍 😀 Just a bit of trivia: There are 44 members who are called Amanda_ _ _ _ _ _ Of those 8 have only ever made 1 post and a further 28 have made 0 posts 🙁 I do hope our newest member Amanda will return soon 😀

Elton John held an inter-county boxing championship for nurses and found that Surrey seems to be the hardest ward. ___ I watched a documentary about the Normans last night. Amazing that such a large group of people all had the same name. ___ I'm from a small family, the youngest of three. My parents are both older than me. ___ I've just formed a band called "The Coffin Lids".... We cover a lot of the old pop legends.... ___ I stole a boomerang earlier and hid it up my sleeve. The security guard threw me out of the shop 37 times. ___

Unless you have got ford pass app enabled , the dealer won't see any data. It's gdpr data protection . You basically have to authorise this. I'm led to believe the data only starts once app is on. So not any previous data. Could be wrong. I've never had to check the data on a vehicle. I can see when then are switched on if I bother looking.

Firstly don't assume that the new CR2032 batteries are working, there are many counterfeit and poor quality batteries on sale. You need to use a digital multimeter and measure the voltage of the new batteries, they need to be 3.30V. If they are less than 2.99V then they are dead. It may sound a silly thing to suggest, but are you 100% sure that the batteries are the correct way up ? If you are using Duracell (not recommended) clean the batteries with IPA, acetone, or nail polish remover as they have an invisible coating on them which causes poor electrical contact.

Maybe due to the forum's BS filter 🤣 Range anxiety is just one issue with EVs Increasingly, with modern petrol cars, the emissions are now that low that the actual particulate emissions of the tires/brakes have overtaken what comes out the tail pipe. Also, you just can't escape that the mass production of 600Kg Lithium Ion batteries is simply not 'green'. There is no way an infrastructure of chargers will support such a crossover, and this is increasingly talked about in the way that the 2030 deadline is likely to be extended. The increased weight of EVs at approaching 2 tones will deteriorate our roads infrastructure, as well as bridges & car parks. The whole ethos is just ill thought out.

Oh, I remember using one of those in my physics class at school! Great bit of kit!

Yes, but it took him 30 years to find a great Belfast workforce to build it LOL

Yes, it was more or less repeated in today's Sunday Times also. His point about just keeping existing cars going longer is very valid. I must say here that (in addition to your 8,000 likes award) I'll award you another for your services in preserving Mk 2 Focuses!😃 Also in the ST today on a similar theme was a piece by Dominic Lawson in which he lays into the Drax biomass burning racket which I keep banging on about. It looks as if Ofgem may be finally on the case but I'm not holding my breath.

Hello Zak, I'm not familiar with the Ford model Hargreaves, but I expect it's similar to a Focus 😉 Have you checked the actual RKE module and the aerials ? There have been a few cases of these modules becoming intermittent and eventually failing. This is a link to the Ford parts for your model: https://catalogs.ssg.asia/ford/?lang=en#bWFya2V0PT1ldXJvfHxjYXRfaWQ9PTExMTA0fHxjYWJicj09R0NCNHx8dGhrPT0zfHxzdD09NDB8fHN0cz09eyIyMCI6IkV1cm9wZSIsIjMwIjoiRm9jdXMgQ0I0IDIwMDgtMjAxMSIsIjQwIjoiNCBFbGVjdHJpY2FsIn18fERSPT1EUjBDMHx8QlM9PUJTSEMwfHxFTj09RU5HNjB8fGFscGhhPT00fHxXPT1XQUVHQjA%3D Special note for @TomsFocus Normal service restored 🤣

Hi everyone, I'm new to the site but not new to owning a Ford! Currently have a Fiesta ST-Line on a 70 plate (the 125 MHEV version) and just thought I'd say hello. (Excuse the photo but was struggling to get it below the 2MB limit, haha)

FORScan is a programme (free for use on windows laptop) which can be used with an ELM327(modified) adapter/cable OR it can be used with the new vLinker FS cable. Stay away form eBay stuff it very often does not work. FORScan: https://forscan.org/download.html ELM327(modified): https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/product/usb-modified-with-switch-elm327 OR use the new vLinker FS: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vgate-vLinker-Adapter-FORScan-MS-CAN/dp/B0952P4MLP

Yes, from what I've seen, the causes of belt degradation in the PSA Puretech are the same as the ecoboost. Changing the belt looks to be just as much fun too!

Your Local Environmental Health Department may be able to help for either a nuisance smell or a Health related one and may be able to force your Landlord to Investigate unless the legislation is different in England. It is difficult for me to comment on your last paragraph without seeing your house in person, but It is almost certain that the External Cavity Walls will be intact except for any necessary penetrations and the False Wall or large Pipe Box as I would call it will inside this. Any water is much more likely to exit internally through the Plasterboard than externally through at least one skin of Brickwork.