Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/09/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    lasthope

    clutch ford focus 2008 tdci

    I tom lots of hills and sheep lol was out lastnite going up few hills but not going hard never slipped once lol
  2. 1 point
    bashbarnard

    VERY Late Turbo, VERY Low Torque

    Start with basics. In plug the MAF sensor. Then go for a drive. It may well be he maf sensor playing up.
  3. 1 point
    Damien79

    MK4 doors not opening

    I don't have access to Forscan. I will bring it to a garage and update the forum afterwards.
  4. 1 point
    TomsFocus

    clutch ford focus 2008 tdci

    Cheapest option is just to avoid hills then.... Not sure how easy that'll be in Durham though lol.
  5. 1 point
    I have a double usb hub on my sync 3, believe it came from a c-max but that works well without issues 👍🏻
  6. 1 point
    you need to get a code reader on it to give some pointers. a car can hold fault codes for a long time and they don't have dates on them, so codes when first read can be misleading. Read the codes, clear the codes, drive the car and see what codes reappear. Codes don't categorically tell you what to replace but they do give clues where to focus attention on.
  7. 1 point
    Depending on if you have power fold versus non-power fold (or other features) probably around £60 to £100-120 ish for a non-OEM version. Not sure if it includes a harness, nor it's price. If you still have the cap/mirror then that makes swapping a new one easier, you can head to a breakers to see what they have and see if you can get lucky.
  8. 1 point
    sorry Lenny if i have offended you in anyway I've always been cack handed with things like this and my back hurts when trying to take the trim off as i have degenerative disc disease, so it is rather difficult for me to do i really wanted to do it myself, i don't fancy paying him x amount and hour, but needs must
  9. 1 point
    Phil3747

    EcoBoost degas hose question

    ***UPDATE**** the 60 days is now up and unsurprisingly I hadn't heard anything from the Stealer, so I went back down this morning to chase it up. They checked the computer and said that they hadn't heard anything back from Ford yet, BUT the reception guy then went to speak with the warranty guy and returned five minutes later to say that THEY would refund me the £38.93 cost of the hose (even though they said that this was not possible when I suggested this on my last visit !!!). They are contacting their accounts department to get me a cheque for the full amount in the next few days.....RESULT 😄
  10. 1 point
    TomsFocus

    Focus updating advice

    I think you'll really struggle to privately sell a 2 year old car. There aren't many people with that sort of cash hanging around in their account. Mobile banking would be the best payment method nowadays, it doesn't always come through instantly though. I was waiting over 2 hours for the last car payment. You could try a car buying comparison like Motorway.co.uk. They may offer you more than a main dealer PX but you'd have to check both rather than just making that assumption.
  11. 1 point
    pcaouolte

    Focus updating advice

    You could get them to do an instant transfer from their phone banking app into your bank account. You check on your phone banking app that you have received the money. Assuming both parties are using modern banking facilities.
  12. 1 point
    JW1982

    MK3 Navigator front facia trim

    From approximately the second half of 2012 this piece of trim is no longer present. To save cost this piece of trim was skipped. On a later MK3 it is perfectly normal to not have this piece of trim.
  13. 1 point
    Stoney871

    MK3 Navigator front facia trim

    Nothing on ebay but it's part (fins) number 5116273. Take that number to a Ford dealership parts counter and they'll order it for you. To confirm - It is this bit you mean?- Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    Hi @Tdci-Peter, Thanks for this, you are defiantly a knowledgeable guy! Well, I sent the DPF away to the DPF Cleaning Company (www.thedpfcleaningco.co.uk) and they have checked it out. Unfortunately it is not salvageable (see picture below): I had the engine / DPF TerraClean at about 70,000 miles and they seemed to think this is what caused the filter to fail. A new genuine Ford filter was going to cost me around the £700 mark and as the car is fairly old / high mileage I have opted for a new one from the Catman (www.catman.co.uk) for £238.85. I've got a new gasket and retaining nuts coming from Ford so hopefully the part will not be too difficult to fit - I'll let you know how it goes! The DPF comes with 2 years warranty so fingers crossed! Oh, here's a picture of my DPF part number (in case anybody is searching for one for a 2010 Ford Focus in the future): Hopefully I will get it fitted this weekend and then I will see what FORScan has to say! Bye for now, Stophen.
  15. 1 point
    Set the date on 31-12-2009 and the time on 23:59. Wait just 1 minute and you will be able to set the date to the current date.
  16. 1 point
    Botus

    MK4 Focus electronics are....

    people forget cars are stuffed full of computers these days, like any software its written by strange people who don't do communication very well and these days all bug testing is done exclusively by the end user.... go and ask them to plug it in and put this week's fixes in place.... caveat expect them to add in nearly as many as they take out.... one day it'll almost be OK. Since birth there have been more than 60 revision to the software available for a 1 series.. No idea how Ford do it, Merc is one module at a time, so they never bother, on beamers they blast the whole car in one hit so everything runs the currently released "approved" disaster but again they never do it
  17. 1 point
    Guy Heaton

    Collision Avoidance

    So I've just chatted with direct line advisor. They say switching the system off will not void the insurance. You can't actually switch it off completely, just the active braking part.
  18. 1 point
    Luke4efc

    Collision Avoidance

    It wont void your insurance. It's like saying you're insurance is void if you turn your parking sensors off. It's a driver aid and shouldn't be relied upon.
  19. 1 point
    ShamusUK

    Focus updating advice

    Part exchange prices are quite depressing. Best thing to do is put your Reg into WeBuyAnyCar. The quote will be pretty much what you will be offered in part-ex. Some of the Car Supermarkets will offer slightly below WBAC, but most dealer valuations will be plus/minus 5%. Unfortunately you get bottom dollar for part ex, and pay top whack on your new car. That's just how it works, unless you want to go through the hassle of selling privately. I've actually just bought a Focus Titanium X (66 plate). Such a rare car, especially in Petrol, Auto, so I didn't worry too much about the price. It's my first Ford (in 30 years of driving), and I think it's absolutely brilliant. Will post up a full review later. Good luck.
  20. 1 point
    johnH

    SATNAV/RADIO NOT WORKING.

    I know you said you've checked all fuses but have you also checked the one on the rear of the Headunit? I know some have one there as a secondary protection.
  21. 1 point
    KevG

    SATNAV/RADIO NOT WORKING.

    If your satnav look like the above unit then you may have one of the early units fitted that have problems. If it isn't powering on then I gather it is the 1st time that the battery has been disconnected?, the early units suffered from internal memory chips that got corrupted, so the unit fails to power up although it still pulls ~200mA in current, and will almost certainly flatten the battery if left over time. Post your serial number up should look something like this:- 8M5T-18K931-AE
  22. 1 point
    johnH

    Ford Focus 2019 Dash Cam

    Well in my inability to leave things alone...to answer my own question. Fuse 3 in passenger compartment (10amp for parking aids) is a switched live feed. On another note you will need a micro2 fuse tap to connect into this.
  23. 1 point
    JW1982

    Tyre Size???

    Are you sure the car has tyre size 215-55-17 ? Tyre size 215-55-17 is not prescribed by Ford for the Focus MK3/MK3.5. The correct prescribed tyre size for 17 Inch wheels is 215-50-17. As an alternative tyre size 225-45-17 can be used on the Focus MK3/MK3.5. However alternative tyre sizes are not listed in the European type approval of the Focus MK3/MK3.5. Whether alternative tyre sizes are allowed or not may be different between European countries. Before installing an alternative tyre size it is very important to check whether alternative tyre sizes are allowed or not in your country. If alternative tyre sizes are not allowed in your country you should stick to the prescribed tyre size.
  24. 1 point
    In normal driving it's not bhp that makes the biggest difference it's Torque! The 1.5 develops 240nm against the 1.0 of 170 that's >40% more torque. As to fuel consumption, according to the brochure the 1.0 is 6.1 to 5.7 l/100km and the 1.5 6.3 to 6.1, so not a huge difference. I've not driven the 1.0 125 Focus, but my wife used to have a 1.0 100bhp Fiesta (which has similar torque figures) and my 1.5 Focus has a LOT more grunt. My 1.5 at 3000 miles, is currently showing 47.4 mpg (5.96 l/100km) average consumption on the trip (real life is probably slightly less) but I don't do a lot of urban driving. The other reason for getting the 1.5 was the multi-link rear suspension as opposed to the torsion bar BUT since Ford in their wisdom dropped the multi-link from all but the Vignale and the Estate, then that's not a consideration anymore...
  25. 1 point
    The 1.0 EB engine has proved to be very reliable (once the issue with the cooling hoses was resolved and this wasn't to do with the size of the engine, more that Ford chose inappropriate materials to make some of the coolant hoses from!) so I wouldn't worry about the 1.0 125 BHP engine potentially being "overworked" compared to the 1.5 150 BHP engine. The 1.5 doesn't look to be massively faster than the latest version of the 1.0 EB, I've not compared the official fuel economy figures but if the 1.5 is considerable more thirsty, I'd be inclined to save a euros and go for the 1.0 EB.
  26. 1 point
    Any news? I did have a look at the full Forscan data runs, and wish I had asked for the EGT (exhaust temp). I looked at the ratio of DPF DP to MAF. Assuming the amount of gas leaving the engine is more or less equal to the amount of air entering, there should be a fairly constant ratio, But I saw a slow and definate cycle where the ratio changed, by a factor of more than 2, happen three times over the run. This could be temperature, a substantial rise in exhaust temperature (eg 100C to 500C) would do this. Also I saw that the MAP readings regularly went below 1bar while the ratio was rising, but not when the ratio was falling. To go below 1 bar (atmospheric) requires the throttle valve to be partially closed. So it looks like the car did three regen attempts during the run, but without the EGT it is hard to be sure. If it was not doing regens, then something very odd was going on with the MAP. MAF and/or DPF DP readings. The bottom trace in the pictures is not what it says, it is DPF-DP / MAF.
  27. 1 point
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    That sounds good,car not used so don't use a lot of data. I know a lot thinks a tracker is a waste of time which i do agree in a lot of ways but it has helped me out when in a garage and stuff but when the online subscription runs out it will go.
  28. 1 point
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    I have had a cheap TK-102 Tracker from Rewire Security for 2 years but to be honest it will be coming out as no use to me it was just a toy when the Live online runs out in 8 months. Its GPS on 2G and cost pence in data over a 12 month period with Lyca Mobile. The question is does anyone have a cheap one even if its one of the China ones for £7 just to see where the car is not live tracking with history just you ring it and gives you location etc.
  29. 1 point
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    That's a good idea with a old cheap phone and it also don't look out of place,I have a hardwire all set up as my car don't have permanent live off the cigi lighter. See I have data plan with Vodafone on PAYG but if you don't standard is£1 per day as many do this now. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    Micro

    Car Tracker.

    I bought one labelled an A7 off eBay and it was as the same as this, no GPS (I tore it apart too). I think I worked out at the time anything under about £10 is unlikely to have GPS functionality, even if it's advertised in the advert The quickest way to create a GPS tracker is most probably just find an old phone and hardwire that in, disable all the apps and updates and just use Google's find my device feature. There are probably specialised apps for this too that will use minimal data.
  31. 1 point
    Micro

    Car Tracker.

    The A7 (A8) ones may not be gps only cell tower location.
  32. 1 point
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    Yes mate your right you can do that with text demands and setting which i could do when you Live online runs out like ring it off the App i have and you get location and Map link. Just seeing if anyone has the cheaper ones where there is no Live online option just ring or text as i paid about £40 a few years ago but there £7 now for a Mini one A7 but basic.
  33. 1 point
    Imprezajay86

    Idiot Audi Driver

    This was while on my way to work a few weeks ago, absolute idiot
  34. 1 point
    sparkymatt

    St170 Clutch Slipping - Help Pls

    I'd advise changing the slave cylinder as well when doing clutch. Will save in labour costs in the long run as you need to take gearbox off to do both.
  35. 1 point
    iantt

    Tyre Sensors Malfunction

    buy a cheap tpms reader/ learn tool off ebay.£6.50.
  36. 1 point
    isetta

    Tyre Sensors Malfunction

    I have the wifi version and the USB version from Tunnelrat. I originally had the usb one for connecting to laptop, but find the wifi one handier to keep in the glovebox and use with my iPhone. The downside of using it with phone is that whilst Forscan is free for a windows laptop, it is about 6 quid to put the app on your phone (apple or android). But that is a small price to pay I feel for the usefulness of it. Never had a problem with the wifi signal.
  37. 1 point
    F0CUE

    Alan platt

  38. 1 point
    zain611

    Mk6.5 fiesta zetec s upgrades

    Really nice little touch up I did using a white board pen. The S badge has lost its red colour and was thinking of buying a new one but guys on the forum gave me an idea of just using a red pen. Before After
  39. 1 point
    http://mechanicalee.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/ford-engine-management-fault-code.html http://www.fairfieldgarage.com/obdcodes.htm http://www.aa1car.com/trouble-codes/ford_codes_p1000-p1299.htm
  40. 1 point
    JW1982

    Focus Mk3 boot leak

    The vents have rubber flaps which open to release excessive air pressure inside the car. For example when closing the doors or when the interior ventialtion fan is on. The vents have a rubber/plastic lip at the outside which in theory should form a seal between the vents and the bodywork. However in practise the rubber/plastic lip does not seal properly. This allows rain water to leak between the vents and the bodywork. To solve this problem the vents need to be removed. This is mainly needed to clean the contact surfaces of both the bodywork and the vents. After cleaning the vents can be reinstalled using a proper sealant. You only have to apply sealant between the rubber/plasic lip of the vents and the bodywork. The rubber flaps remain untouched. You can basically use any type of sealant as long as it is waterproof. I personally use an automotive PU sealant that is used to seal bodywork but any generic silicone (neutral cure) will be fine.
  41. 1 point
    JW1982

    Focus Mk3 boot leak

    The problem will most likely be caused by the air vents behind the rear bumper. This is a known problem of the Focus MK3. Rain water leaks between the vents and the bodywork. When this happens the water collects in double sided compartments below the boot. When driving/steering/braking the water is pushed from side to side inside the compartments and also upwards. When the water is pushed upwards it enters the boot through several small holes. To determine if this is the problem you can remove the rubber plugs of the compartments. These are located at the bottom of the car near the rear bumper. The compartments can contain up to 10 Liters of water each so be prepared to get wet. To completely solve this problem the rear bumper needs to be removed. Next the air vents can be removed. When the air vents are removed you have access to the compartments and the sound insulation material inside. Both the compartments and the sound insulation material must be dried before the vents are installed and sealed.
  42. 1 point
    Philf1

    So Anyone have the 2015 Mustang?

    This is my son on his holiday last year with his rental not at all jealous Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk www.tomholroydphotography.co.uk
  43. 1 point
    iantt

    2004 1.8 Petrol Mondeo engine noise

    that sounds bad, could be timing chain loose and hitting cam cover.just take cam cover off and check for marks on inside of of cover near where chain runs.
  44. 1 point
    Was going to post this in the Sat Nav topic but my update is probably better with this topic Am probably about 2/3 of the way through the camera installation on my facelift ST using the great information from the OP I expected the camera to arrive before my new headunit so thought I would kick off getting the wiring work done. Not a great start though, the camera was a right pain to get fitted nicely into the finisher. It didn't sit flush, wouldn't lock in place and the camera fouled the finisher quite a bit too. Dremel and various hand-files needed to perform the required camera/tailgate finisher surgery :o Work in progress shot here The grommet for the finisher had a spare stub to use but there was no way the wiring with connectors and junction block would go through it so I had to cut the cable and rejoin it after I'd fed it through - then some faffing to try and seal the grommet and prevent any water ingress to the boot. Then onto the wiring going to the reverse light and also the cable which needs to go to the head unit/display. Different than some of the photos I've seen but my car had wiring on the lhs of the boot for the reverse light feed but the cable supplied was still too short, rough measuring showed it would get halfway round the tailgate but no further. But I was forewarned having read Brigante's guide and picked up some extra cable on Saturday. I managed finally to get the side trim off the tailgate so could access the existing wiring all the way round. Had always thought the pin which the parcel shelf string hooks onto would need removing but not so. For the reverse light wiring I cut into it then used butt splices to rejoin along with a connector so I could disconnect it again if needed. The splices are really handy as you just double up the break out wires with the original wiring at one end and just crimp it up, join the other end back into the original circuit then give it a waft with heat gun and the heatshrink closes up plus releases a glue as well. Then worked from the top of the boot to run the cables through from the tailgate. Was chuffed to find that the large connector on the long camera cable would go through the umbillical for the wiring, so no need to cut the cable and join it all up again :) I also pulled the push-pins, lhs roof trim and rear grab handle from the headliner to let me pull it down a little bit and route the cables round to come down the rear pillar as per the existing wiring .All went to plan and after the use of much electrical and cloth tape I ended up with all the tailgate end of things finished off. Left some slack cable at the camera end of things just in case it's needed later. Didn't get as far as terminating the wiring for the reverse light but that'll be simples now. Also decided to bring the camera wiring down the d-pillar to meet up with the main wiring, intention to run the cable along the floor instead of along the roof and down the A-pillar. Whether I come to regret that decision remains to be seen Course the cable isn't long enough now and I'm hoping that getting an extra 1m cable isn't too difficult. Not got the headunit fitted yet, just after finally calling it a day a parcel man turned up with this :D As usual a straight forward job took me all day but wanted to make sure I did a proper neat job.
  45. 1 point
    Hi all I have just replaced the sidelights on my 2005 Fiesta 1.25 (pre facelift) from the standard bulbs to LED's and what a nice difference they make, i have taken some photos so thought i would share how to do it as it is quite straightforward to do. From this(old image) to this(new image) Ok first of all open bonnet and remove the two screws on the top of the headlight using either a flat headed screwdriver or a T30 torx. then remove front grille by unclipping both ends(and a clip in the middle) and lifting from the bottom being careful not to break any of the clips. Once the grille is off, this will give you access to the last screw...... Once removed there is only a couple of clips holding the unit in..... one on the top, insert flat head screwdriver and twist(careful not to scratch paintwork) Once unclipped.... the last remaining clip is under the light unit attatched to the wing, to unclip this firmly hold the light unit from the botton and lift upwards. The whole unit has now been removed, now all you have to do is remove the rubber weather shield from side light housing... then carefully pull out the old light from the housing and unclip from the holder..... now to fit the LED's just gently push into the housing (checking that they are the correct way around as they will only work one way)....... Now all that is left to do is put everything back in place, just as reverse of removal. hope this helps anyone wishing to replace their side light bulbs with LED's i recommend these as they give of a nice light and are very cheap. http://www.ebay.co.u....&prg=1006&rk=1
  46. 0 points
    VFR800

    MK4 Focus electronics are....

    FLAKEY AS FOOK!!!!! Stuff switches off randomly, hill assist, speed limiter, USB media device. Other stuff hangs or just plays up. And it's all random and fixed with an ignition cycle.
  47. 0 points
    Ennvoqation

    MK4 Focus electronics are....

    You should try an Audi, friends A4 BE has been in the garage more times than I remember for electronics since December. You'd expect better for a car that cost the better part of 35k. LED lights failure, MMS glitches and failure, various interior lights flickering, HVAC throwing out hot hair instead of cool (great in the recent weather) and weird timing issues with the engine electrics. Oh and the latest was the dashboard completely blanking out at 70mph. It's a running joke the dealer is his second garage now. All cars have glitches, the more electronics you stuff into a car the greater chance of a failure or 'quirk'.
  48. 0 points
    Ams

    Collision Avoidance

    You can switch it OFF but remember, your insurance is aware that you have this system built in and incase of accident this will void your insurance. I've confirmed this with my insurance LV.com and turning it OFF had an increase of nearly £150. Hope this helps.
  49. 0 points
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    I was wondering that,how do they work with no sim. All i know is how GPS one's works but don't gain me a thing really but would like to know.
  50. 0 points
    jace1969

    Car Tracker.

    It's a pain now,looks like its out soon as a complete waste of time,had it for 18 months but because there newer ones this is playing up. Sent command and won't go to std.by so on 24/7 on hardwire which I don't want and also might be only pence in data but why have it on as its sitting for a few 2 or 3 days using data and car battery power.