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I don't know the answer to your question but if you just had an advisory for light misting then I personally would not change it unless it obviously was not doing its job. I had light misting on one of mine, I cleaned it and it has not shown any signs of leaking since and that was a long time ago.

God loves a trier 👍 but even he would question your life choices 🤣

Yes, do yourself a favour and forget about the 'feature'. Ford only introduced it to get through some tighter emissions certification. Nothing more than a gimmick, and destroying the planet by getting folk to throw out perfectly serviceable batteries in the vain hope of getting it to work. Other opinions are available...

They are simply a guide to show where the slot is in the dark, activated when no CD inserted, and your headlights are on...

While out for a walk this morning, I was passed by an Audi RS 3 at the point he was changing down with a cacophony of pops, fa*rts and bangs. I suspected naughty remap and pipe, but the thing I liked was the registration: R53YOB! Very appropriate!😀

That's why I knew the answer 🤣

They indicate whether side 1 or side 2 of the CD is playing.

At 2014 you are due a belt change anyway

If it were me (and I've been in that position), I would seek out the services of a local independent auto locksmith who will have the appropriate equipment to supply and program a working key fob. It will cost more than buying an AliExpress one, but at least you know it will work and be stress free. I would budget about €80 or so...

Just wanna say thanks to all those that helped and especially TomsFocus with the diagram! Would have been lost without that. I will remain a member of this forums as its bl**dy brilliant with people who know what they are talking about!!!. This is why you do not need social media and old skool proper forums matter! Keep up the good work. I just drove to my dentist in the next city. Main roads 50+ felt the bonnet when I arrived. Cold! Drove back opened hood touched the cloth (no jokes about touching cloth 💩💩💩💩 but probably went through that with the fire!!! 🤣😂🤣😂😕) and the cloth was warm to the touch. Couldnt be happier... Again really appreciate your help and above all your patience! ❤️ Samantha

Thanks. Yes, that should be the electro-hydraulic system. There is a module and a few sensors in the pump assy, so it should flag fault codes if there are any electrical issues with it. They may only be picked up using Ford level diagnostics though. I would recommend a fault code check using Forscan first. The next cheapest & easiest test you can do is checking the steering angle sensor via live diagnostics. Very simple sensor, it should be 0 with the wheel at the top, and +/-90 degress with the the wheel quarter turned for example. Assuming that's fine, I'd look at the fluid in the reservoir. See if it's the wrong colour or if there's obvious contamination in it. If the fluid looks ok, I'd probably try a replacement pump first. Only cost around £60 for a good used part on ebay and easy to change. If it still doesn't work, then you're only really left with the rack. But as that's a major job, I'd try the other things first.

update! FIXED by using best part of a whole tube of TigerSeal around all the panel joins on the rear driver side, boot mounting points and all the way along underneath the plastic roof runner. Also took the bumper off and redone the vent seals aswell for good measure. Its been almost two weeks and the carpet is still bone dry. Thank Fk!

**UPADTE** Knocking noise from the rear resolved by replacing the rear droplinks! They looked very crusty and I thought would be difficult to remove but actually turned out ok. No need for a hacksaw or nut splitters. The internal hex held up and was able to counterhold to remove the nuts. Thanks for the help!

when it happens again . . . .

Sadly, you clearly do not understand the issue. It doesn't 'right' itself. The solder that was used was lead free (to save the planet), which lasts for some years but then deteriorates and causes numerous electrical issues. Checking the solder by eye is useless as you'll need strong magnification to see the micro cracks. The ONLY cure is to remove the errant solder and replace with proper leaded solder. The 'banging' may get you home, but it's certainly not a fix!

You need to change your mindset. Getting '200 miles' is a useless bit of info. (As you have little idea of how much fuel you needed to achieve that) The only true measurement is MPG. I always brim my tank, set my odometer to zero, then do the same again next trip to the garage. This gives you an accurate ongoing statistic of what mileage you get...

There is a company that specialises in roof repair in Chester called Hoodtech run by a young guy called Charlie. All he does is soft tops and hard tops, manual and electric. Knows a lot about the Focus CC roof. https://hoodtech.co.uk/

I see what you did there 😉🤣

Just a quick ending to the thread, the fixings on Ebay at £3.25 are a perfect fit! No brainer at 32p/each as opposed to 'genuine' Ford at £5/each 🤣

I note it says this in that article: The engine oil in this particular engine had not been changed regularly and possibly not even been the correct specification oil.

By the time it shows symptoms, it's generally too late. That's why so many end up failing altogether. As it's 10 years old and very low mileage, I'd either get the belts done asap, or sell it and buy something without a wetbelt. The cost of wetbelt changes make these cars unviable for low mileage drivers.

Search Ebay for "Focus/C-Max Instrument cluster repair", remove cluster and send it off. Don't attempt to fit a replacement cluster, it's more hassle than it's worth. Don't waste your money taking it to a garage, just send the cluster off and it will be OK

Spam. Blocked.

Just be aware reflowing defective solder joints may last a little while but the leadfree solder used originally fails with age. the solder should be removed and replaced with conventional solder for a lasting repair.

This isn't the sort of thing you'll find aftermarket. The options are: Buy new from a Ford dealer. (Estimate £250+) Buy used from a breakers yard. (Must be plenty of Mk3's being scrapped by now) Have a hydraulic pipe shop make one up from scratch using your old one as a template.

With respect, they're all aware of the issue. What did you expect? An apology? Ain't gonna happen, that would automatically leave them legally wide open... They're a public company responsible to their shareholders, not a charity. Their aim is to make as much money as they possibly can. Not to offer 'special' discounts to customers... I've been in business for 40+ years, there's a line from offering customer service, and making a profit. Often customers expectations simply don't match the company they are dealing with - if that's the case, move on.

Looks like this.

My bad... I meant well 😁

Sometimes when streaming an ITVx show, I find you're locked into watching ads as it doesn't allow you to FF them 😕

I don't like the current fad for programme-makers to put up to 2 or more minutes of identical preamble before the start of each episode of a programme. I also find the trailers BBC puts between programmes particularly irritating. Virtually all of it is stuff of no interest to me and with digital EPG, onlne and paper versions of Radio Times I already have all the information I need. It's a total waste of time.

They're called 'Scrivets'. Designed to be hammered in but unscrewed to remove. https://www.sdproducts.co.uk/panel-and-trim-fasteners-plastic/scrivets

Hopefully, after 13 years, the coolant level has remained constant

For Mk8 Fiesta: There are no daylight running lights at the rear. On lower spec models the stop & tail light is a P21/5W bulb. You do have to fully remove the light for access to change it. On higher spec models the stop & tail lights are LED and not replaceable.

Just stop using Google and use DuckDuckGo instead.

Surely not !!! The insurance companies have all been warned about "New Customer Only" deals 🤣

@Chris9181 just remember MHEVs do not have the ability to power the car on EV mode at all. The MHEV system just aids the engine in what would normally be turbo lag situations and performs Stop/Start quicker Engine works 100% of the time

Final, final update, just in case this helps other members. The problem came back, albeit less severe. There was a secondary (or even a third) drain....how lucky am I!! I did what I should have done at the start and rigged my multi-meter up to look for fine margins (please see pictures). I noticed straight away that there was nearly an amp draining with nothing on (0.78a). I am no auto electrician, but around 0.10 to 0.20a I would expect? Took fuses out one by one and the big drop was the radio (after factoring in the memory, so did it a few times). With that fuse out went down to a more normal 0.06a. Since this discovery I have now read loads of articles online about the 6000CD (and similar) Ford radios draining batteries through a progressive internal fault (linked to the muting system apparently). So my advice, to avoid the delays I had is identify the precise source first (sounds obvious to me now LOL). If anyone is interested in how I rigged my multi meter up, as long as you have a fairly decent one (mine's a Draper one, about £40-50) and some crocodile clips 2 of which have a 12v wire in between, take the Red lead out of its normal socket on the multi-meter and pop it into the 10a DC socket. Undo you negative terminal clamp and take it off the battery. Attach one of the croc clips to the battery clamp (disconnected from the battery) with the other croc clip (with the wire in between) attach to the Red MM lead exposed end. Put the exposed part of the black lead of the MM to the negative battery terminal (use a spare croc clip) and this will then run through your MM what is going into your car from your battery. You can play around then removing fuses and relays one by one until you get a drop in the readings on the MM. That's likely then to be your issue. It was with me. Hope that may help someone else, like I was helped by other members above, which was appreciated.

My 1988 2.0 Granada had an external pump close to the tank if I remember correctly . dont know if and where the cut off could be, sometimes at the bottom of the A pillar. waggle test of all the connectors on the engine used to be the first ‘port of call’ on efi engines

There's a new series on BBC2 about the latest dig at Pompeii. Two episodes down but I'm sure you can get them on iPlayer. Genuinely amazing to see the similarities with today's world from 2000 years ago. Probably the only genuine snapshot of history in the world.

I am Lochie, old, and I fix cars as a hobby. I have a 2001 Ford Laser KQ here in Australia, not sure of the model name in the UK. It is basically a sound car, 151000KM. The paint clear coat had peeled (common in Australia) on the roof so sprayed it with white acrylic. Now cooler and it looks better.

Example below......

There is no reason to remove or change the physical ignition barrel unless you are planning on changing the mechanical key blade that you use. If so you will also need to change all the door locks, and the tailgate lock. The barrel is secured to the steering column by two snap head bolts (not rivets). When the bolts are originally fitted they have a normal head, but it snaps off when the bolts are tightened and reach a certain torque.

Know there's a warning message to stop safely. 🤣🤣. shows on transit when one of the vacuum sensors fail electrically or looses vacuum. Guess other models similar message.

They're the cheapest ***** that ECP sell. (Or were a few years ago.) I've had two warped Eicher discs as well. Wouldn't buy them or recommend them to anyone else personally. There are two different points of squealing. One is the pad vibrating in the carrier, which can be damped by copper grease - or in the past decade I'd go with Cera-tec instead. But the other squeal is the pad material against the disc. Obviously you can't put any grease on that side! You can file a shamfer on the edge if they're straight edged. But if that doesn't work then it's simply the composition of the friction material that causes the squeal, only a new set of pads will cure that.

The swan neck is the part that looks like a swans neck. At the top of the cat (catalytic converter). The wastegate actuator is the thing under the turbo. It's a small metal can with a rod coming from the centre.

The pm temp sensor failure is quite a common fault.temp sensor is part of the particulate matter sensor.

This one? Genuine Ford Console Bracket 1500398 | eBay

The Mk2 petrols don't have a fuel filter.

What a bust. 3 old fashioned newsagents, not a copy anywhere. No surprise we're all doing online now! 🤣 EDIT Got one this morning! Alot of work to replace a wing, I got a bargain 😊

I think you will find you have a broken LIN BUS wire between the drivers door and the rear window module. You should also check that you have a permanent 12v between pin 2 and pin 13 of the rear module.