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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/23/2017 in all areas
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I was looking at this again and whilst I still like it there was something that, in my eyes at least,wasn't quite right. Couldn't figure it out until now. The lower left picture is too short, the height the same as the bigger one next to it would be better. And the upper of the two bigger pictures is too big, if it were the same height as the smaller pics either side it wouldn't jut up. Maybe just me being a bit 'anal' though2 points
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A Diesel engine does not have an Idle Control Valve. A Diesel engine does not have a throttle body either. The amount of air is not regulated on a Diesel engine. A diesel engine always sucks in as much air as possible. The engine speed is regulated by controlling the amount of fuel that is injected and the fuel injection timing. Some modern Diesel engines have a throttle plate but this is not designed to regulate the amount of air that is sucked into the engine. This throttle plate creates a vacuum which for example is needed for the EGR valve to work correctly. Another function of the plate is to prevent the engine from juddering when the engine stops. The plate cuts of the air supply and makes the engine stop a bit quicker without juddering. Older Diesel engines did have a mechanical fuel injection pump. On these engines the engine speed at idle can be adjusted by adjustment screws on the pump. These adjustment screws adjust the amount of fuel that is injected and the fuel injected timing so this should only be doene by a specialist. Newer Diesel engines like your 2.0 TDCI have an electronic common rail fuel injection system. This system is fully controlled by the engine management system (PCM) and can not be adjusted manally. Bad idling on a Diesel engine can have many causes but personally I would start checking/diagnosing the fuel system.2 points
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I do like spending 3½ hours in the delightful company of Pipper the springer spaniel. http://www.margaretgreenanimalrescue.org.uk/41870 We bonded instantly (as I did with Brandy 16 years ago), we then had a 2 hour walk around the dog walking paddocks, followed by an hour of play and cuddling. Like a cat, she likes to be cuddled: with her sitting on your lap and nuzzling, And we then had another hours walk, before I had to hand her back, for the visiting time period was closing, for the day. I told the rescue centre I would like to offer her a forever home and for them, to begin the rehoming process. I couldn't have found a better new companion I going to see her tomorrow for another session, and hopefully daily, until the rehoming process concludes and she finally comes to stay2 points
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You'd also need to soundproof the hell out of your doors with amped speakers in, else you'll just get vibrations :)2 points
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If you could link me to where you read that ld be interested to see it myself. the speakers are one thing but you will also need a separate amplifier or amplifiers to enhance the audio levels from the headunit beyond the standard 50Wx 4 output. fitting 500w speakers sounds like a plan but you also need an amplifier to get 500w out of the speakers; if not then you won't get more than 50watts out of them. you won't have any issues with the altinator and those figures; unless the altinator is at the end of its lifespan in which case you would just replace it. a capacitor would help regulate draw from the battery but perhaps not required neither; depending on the class of amplifier or amplifiers purchased Class D wouldn't require a capacitor where Class A, B would and that's because there less efficent not better than a class D tthen there are two types of amplifiers; mono and stereo stereo also known as "full range" amplifier boosts all signals from the headunit sending them to the speaker, you cant send full range audio to a sub as it will potentially separate from the cone because it doesnt have a tweeter to process anything over 50hz a mono amplifier is designed for bass only. only a mono amplifier can take in full range audio but it only passes on anything 50hz or below to the sub. The only option for fitting a single amplifier to do sub and full range speakers is by fitting a five channel amp which can in some cases cost 100gbp more than purchasing two separate units.2 points
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Thanks @pragmatix. I actually agree that if AC was on, this would be correct behaviour. My old Mazda did as you describe when AC was on, cooling and heating as necessary. My issue with the Mondeo is that AC and AUTO are off, so I'd expect it to pump out air at a constant temperature. Anyway, I guess it works the way it works so no point me complaining! Cheers.1 point
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No your right mate, I realised the issue regarding the spacing of the bottom left picture when I got to it at 10pm last night 😅 it's centre to the hhorizontal one next to it. the second issue you mentioned there about the picture in middle being higer line than the others; Well I managed to correct that one by having a 2" space between all of the pictures; it's leveled out that bump 👍 that will be level when on the hooks correctly.1 point
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Not looking forward to the drive home this evening. Thick fog is really setting in (after never really clearing all day), the gritters are out already to prepare for rush hour and there are far too many people who don't drive to the conditions on the road or seem to know how to use their lights properly. I drove passed a Corsa in a ditch this morning (every cloud and all that). Dorset council also reported 14 accidents during this morning's rush hour, when it was daylight... It's a really busy unlit country road I have to drive on to get home which is heaving with traffic and has an accident blackspot of a junction on it :( Maybe I'll take the long/slow way home...1 point
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I would nip it in to a garage that does MOT and ask them to check them for you, they would most likely do it on the spot and a couple of beer tokens would probably cover it. I know that the Skoda Fabia Monte Carlos came with black pack headlights and they were set too low, far too low and it was a common occurrence. LED lights do seem to be incredibly bright but I can't say I've ever been dazzled by them, as long as they are factory fit. Regarding the 'stepping', it could be possible that one of the bulbs isn't seated properly or not adjusted the same. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk1 point
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1 Silver/aluminium 6,841,315 22.50% 7,334,335 25.4% -7% 2 Black 5,915,527 19.40% 5,230,739 18.1% 13% 3 Blue 5,689,516 18.70% 6,005,624 20.8% -5% 4 Grey 3,710,965 12.20% 3,074,210 10.7% 21% 5 Red 3,237,326 10.60% 3,104,114 10.8% 4% 6 White 2,833,084 9.30% 1,484,134 5.1% 91% 7 Green 1,066,496 3.50% 1,533,059 5.3% -30% 8 Beige/buff 235,683 0.80% 235,052 0.8% 0% 9 Yellow 172,297 0.60% 177,874 0.6% -3% 10 Brown 169,656 0.60% 92,226 0.3% 84% Source: DVLA/RAC1 point
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If you Jack from the sides it will pull the car closer to you as you get higher. Try to Jack from the front or rear depending on which end your working on. You can Jake up the whole front or rear if you get the Jack in the right place. Do this carefully and only to the first hole on the stands then place them In the position you want, then if you need more lift take it up for the next hole. If you need more than the Jack will get to then you can use a concrete block under the Jack the repeat the lift a hole at a time. I have these stands... https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cax-6tbc-6-ton-axle-stands They can cope to 6 ton and over kill but they raise the car to 615mm high! Ample for getting right under the car. Can't recommend these enough. I also always put a piece of timber between the car and the Jack, my bit is 12" long 6" wide and 2"thick. It just helps to steady everything and also doesn't put all the stress on a 3" x 3" spot. You can also do this with the stands but a smaller piece of timber.1 point
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Hello everyone! My name's Alex and I'm from Romania. I've bought my Fiesta nearly 2 years ago and since then I did around 25,000 miles with it. The car will get to 200,000 miles soon and so far it has been mostly problem free. (the injector seals went and have been replaced but that's about it). The few modifications I did: - it runs a boost-controller with a higher boost (1.3bar) and a custom fuel map (no dyno but it should be right around 90 to 100 crank-horsepower) - it has Eibach ProKit springs and Bilstein B6 sport shocks all around - i have the Zetec S interior (red/gray cloth) - DMB* Graphics badges - poly-bushes and a solid motor mount under the gearbox And that's about it so far. I am planning on either rebuilding this engine, adding an intercooler, hybrid turbo and going for ~130 horsepower or I'll do a 1.6 swap. I love the car, it never let me down and so far it has been a real joy to drive. The suspension has been a godsend and it made the handling nearly perfect. The only drawback for now are the brakes but later this year I'll be looking at a 300mm kit for the front and possibly discs in the back (if i can keep the ABS system).1 point
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Just want to say a massive thanks to @Bannko for his help to get my nav working.1 point
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You can either make your own if you're good with electronics, or purchase one from herehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181457166623 You'll then need a laptop, and the LATEST VERSION of forscan. NOT the version that you're linked to with the included disc, in fact, bin the disc as its not needed. Once you get that far, I've a screenshot of instructions I'll have to dig out. If you're going to go ahead, then at the same time as ordering the adapter you need to sign up for the forscan forum. This will be necessary as they need to approve your account which can take a few days and the adapter I linked comes within 48hours. Once they approve your account. You'll need to generate a Trial License using the link on their forum.1 point
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Hi and welcome. When your insurance is due for renewal please feel free to give us a try. Regards, Dan.1 point
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Brandy licks everyone except small scruffy men that dress in black and have a passing resemblance to Russell Brand1 point
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