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I do like its only 3 more sleeps until I pick up my new car [emoji16] Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

In this interest of this not becoming all memes, I'll lock the thread as I think everyone has had their say. :)

The only issue with the car is you, can someone lock this thread it makes my brain hurt.

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clearly that went in 1 ear and straight out the other.......

good grief , if your going to drag this lame thread out for 5 pages at least get the science right. the battery is there to start the car and little else , once engine is running the alternator provides all electrical power , the battery wont be drained in the slightest. if you switch on all heaters and lights what happens ? the revs drop momentarily then rise back to normal tick-over. what does this mean ? it means fuel consumption wont be effected by any great degree from electrical loads otherwise the engine would run faster every time you switch something on and it doesnt. you think theres a direct relationship between power usage and fuel used - there isnt in a modern car , thanks to the engine management using smart technology to balance , monitor and prioritise all electrical systems. now please shut up until you know what you are talking about.

Lazy servicing . Wheels come off at 2nd service, or should do and any decent tech normally clean up and apply a small amount of copper grease

like halfords still cant work out 15% discount using the owners club card , dont think they have ever managed to get it right. lol

It's very sad when you feel that you have to "snoop" on the people you should be able to trust with your car and investment but sadly, it's part of the joy of using many garages (aka part changers) when you take your pride and joy in for repair or rectification. I had to drill 2 tiny holes in a rear bumper assembly on a Mitsubishi when the garage told me it would cost over a grand for a new one plus painting. When I got the car back the 2 tiny holes were still there. They had just filled it and bogged it up with glass fibre and resprayed it! Did manage to get a brand new bumper, respray and compensation after complaining bitterly but don't trust any garage again. You're better off doing it yourself if you can or find someone you can trust!

Thanks bud, I'm really happy with how it's looking lately although I can't get the idea of coilovers out of my head. I feel the front sits higher than the rear. Realistically I only want to go down another 15/20mm so the arches are just inline with the top of the tyres. Here's the most recent shop of the front and rear [emoji4] : Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

This has to be a Troll thread right? The Alternator can make more energy or less as and when it needs it. It doesn't put out a standard voltage like OLDER ones. So when the screens are heating, the alternator pushes out more electricity to cover the demand. Seriously, what juice are you drinking?

AAAAGH!!! DFTT anyone?

This is quite normal. The wheel hubs have a flange of 63.3 mm to center the wheel ontot he hub. The wheels have a recess of 63.4 mm. When the wheels are installed there is a very small gap between the flange of the hub and the recess of the wheel. Corrosion between the flange of the wheel hub and the recess of the wheel cause the wheel to seize onto the wheel hub. In this case the wheel could be removed by using a mallet. In some cases removing the wheel will need a lot more force. A known trick to make the wheel come loose is by unscrewing the wheel nuts a few turns and then carefully driving the car backwards and forwards until the wheel comes loose from the wheel hub. However this problem can be prevented quite easily by applying a little bit of ceramic or copper anti seize grease between the flange of the wheel hub and the recess of the wheel.

No it's not, it's a feature that will costs you less than $5 over 20 years. You say to use AC for de-fogging yet that probably uses more fuel, and wears out more parts than a heating element and your alternator/battery. Getting new AC parts fitted would cost far more.

Try Tiger Seal! Sticks like s**t to a blanket!! I used it of a Caterham replica I built, once it's on there it's on there...

I'd avoid your fingers first and foremost [emoji87] I had a pal once who was somewhat of a perfectionist and he was building his own roll cage for his mk1 escort. He said the most important thing was always measure twice and get your angles right. He's a clever guy, unfortunately he isn't particularly bright and he built the cage on the drive 'next' to the car, got half way through before the penny dropped! Don't forget your OK board and go pro. Enjoy and good luck on race day Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It helps to clear, ice, condensation and fogging and even rain to a point. Does it matter really? You even say it's a company car and you are still going on about it. Its no big deal at all, costs nothing more to use of any noticeable a mount and is a feature you will find on pretty much any new car. I am absolutely bemused it bothers you this much, your just making yourself look daft. I use my front heated screen all the time when it fogs up inside even while driving its a great feature just wish the side windows had heating elements too, then there would be no clearing ice at all in winter.

Thank you gents.I have sat in a dark garage with a small torch thinking there must be at least one elsewhere!!!Ok i am also on Morpheine for a painful condition at the moment,does that allow me off looking a total novice? ;-) All this for a bulb huh ;-) Thanks guys.

I probably won't do anything straight away. I suspect a promotion coming up in work so I want to wait and see what happens there first. When I do anything, this forum will be the first to know :)

I think there's some screws under the door as well

To be completely honest, I'm not really sure what's the benefit of coilovers. This is the part of car mechanics where I still have blanks in. But from my brief understanding, your car will sit a bit lower, if you decide to go with lower set than you have now (spring + shock). In this case, the looks might not have the required results, however the performance would be better a little bit. So I guess it depends. If you want to achieve the "alligned" (or, sorry for using the word , stanced) look, then go for wheel spacers. They will put your wheels out a bit and then you maybe decide that you don't need to go any lower, because tires would scuff the fenders. For example, I now can't really get 18" (and I don't really even want them), because of this same reason - I would need smaller spacers. And, after all, you maybe go for the coilovers, but you'll stay with the current height. But like I said, coilovers isn't exactly area where I shine, so probably someone else would have more professional opinion about this, hopefully with practical knowledge of the matter... But I think, and this should be a logical conclusion, the spacers should go first (if you want to use them), so you'll see if and how much lower you can go with a new set of coilvers.

Ive never used a garage before for repairs always done the work myself, the only reason this time because of the issues Ive had after only 30miles of ownership and I thought sod it they can foot the bill. Ive only used garages for MOTs (hell I even change my own tyres with a homemade bead breaker lol) one garage I used to use for MOTs couldnt even get that right they MOTd a matiz I had (for pizza delivery) the following day the bottom ball joint fell out, they then MOTd my vec cdti 1 week later a brake pipe bust whilst I towing the caravan that was fun

Cold Beer

Party Wall

insurance companies

Life Insurance

Pen Island

Should be home this weekend and tyres done next week. Time to see if i actually like them on the car. Need to find decent lowering springs. I see you had issues with yours?

thanks for the response. The car belongs to a lady I know and I think she is resigned to it being un-fixable without replacing the screen, which she won't do so she will just live with it not working (don't say accidentally on purpose break the screen and claim on insurance). I don't like to be beaten when I am trying to fix these things. But I am thinking this is most likely a screen problem (or the ribbon strips coming from the screen)

All car brands and models can have this problem.

I think it was silver, hopefully a different one, so there are two more off the roads, lol.

It is ign on and wait 1 minute, ign off. Job done . Don't touch the throttle pedal in that 1 minute.

burning pain

There is no way to reliably determine the charge level in an older battery without doing a set of full charge & discharge cycles, which would take a long time (days), and stress the battery. The 50% charge reading could be because the battery is fine, but it is not being charged properly, or it could be the battery is failing, and can only hold 50% of its nominal charge. So it could the the charging system, or the battery. As the batteries in these stop-start cars are usually very expensive, the usual route of just replacing the battery first is not very attractive. Monitoring the charge voltage while the car is in use is one option. You can get plug-in voltmeters that fit in the cigar socket very cheap. But I would cross check its readings using a decent multimeter on the battery terminals before relying on it. On some cars you can get battery volts on the dash, but the same need to cross check it still very much applies. Do not trust it unless checked! You should expect to see over 14.2v (up to 14.8v) at times while driving. This is the voltage a battery needs to reach full charge. On long drives, or when hot, or under heavy load like screen heaters, the voltage may drop a bit (into the 13s). When left overnight, the battery should hold at 12.5v ish (though door unlocking & interior light will pull it down a bit). The charging system on these modern stop-start cars is rather complex, it is not just an alternator. There are also things like a BMS (Battery monitoring sensor, mounted on the battery -ver terminal) that can go wrong. But if the car does put out the needed voltage (over 14v) for a reasonable amount of time, but the battery still records 50% charge, then the battery is duff. Otherwise the charge system may need investigation. Charging the battery using a good, regulated charger for at least 12 hours is another route, If this does not get it to full charge, then again, the battery is duff.

I like how I just got my first accepted entry into a rally! Only 3 weeks away so better get the Puma finished! Any thing to avoid when welding together a roll cage??

Covers eyes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

vent covers

so, yet another update regarding the mapping. The car is going revo stage 2. I can't say anything else for now but all will he revealed. Expect a detailed review for AET voodoo stage 1&2, and revo stage2

hair dryer

crease brush

Book club **oops** EDIT strokes golf Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Check the rear tyre well for water. The Mk3's often have an issue with water coming in the vents under the rear bumper. My Mk3 is bone dry inside, so condensation inside isn't normal 2) run with the climate control on all the time, it is a dehumidifier as well as a cooler on hot days. On cold days it will remove moisture from the inside of the car what engine do you have? there is a dump valve of sorts on the turbo of some

I do like spending the afternoon with Pipper again We had a 2 hour walk around the dog walking paddocks in some rather dense fog, the husky that was being walked ahead of us by around 50 metres, could be scarcely seen with her white fur. It was then time for playing in the heated and enclosed play room. I took 32 socks with me this afternoon, 8 of which contained a sausage. Which enabled Pipper to play "find the sausage" for close to half an hour. Then she sat on my lap in the fashion of a cat, for a lengthy cuddle, involving tummy rubs and a head to tail massage. We then went into one of the off lead compounds, in between frisbie chasing and retrieving one tennis ball of every five thrown, I introduced her to the clicker, and then put her through her paces with random obedience tasks. It's hard to tell if she's ever had any doggy training, some intermediate and advanced things she knows well: yet some basic obedience skills she lacks. And then it was 3pm, which meant I'd have to hand her back in 30 minutes. We had another 15 minute walk along the walking paddock perimeter path and then back to the play room, for a final cuddle. She seems to have worked out that when I check the time on my phone, it can mean our time together is over. When I'm giving her a cuddle, she positions herself in such a way I can't get it out of my pocket. Unfortunately, tomorrow at the rescue centre is vet day, which means they are closed to visitors. So, I'll have a completely Pipper-less day

Oh, I forgot to say - it is good to see that MG have fitted them with proper handbrakes!! Unlike those ridiculous electric button operated ones you see in almost every new car these days.

Lmao.

Dacia Duster........"Another one drives a duster....."

Nice weekend surprise at work the other day too: Couldn't resist getting a classic/modern shot.

Pretty sure there's no fuel pump. The fuel system relies on the " suction" created by the HP pump to maintain a constant fuel feed at its inlet. Once the filter/ pump/fuel line pipes etc are full without any entrapped air the system is self priming and pumping. The problem is getting the circuit air free especially if you have removed the high pressure feed unions at the injectors or changed the fuel filter (good idea to replace now it's in bits). They are notoriously difficult to get going. There are lots of valuable tips on this forum forum how to resolve. I've used a small hypodermic syringe with great success to refill the system in conjunction with a suction fuel bulb to fill the filter. The starter motor isn't designed for long term cranking and can soon overheat! God knows why Ford didn't spend another fiver installing an insitu primer and make everybody's life easier. After you've got it going once after a strip down you'll get it going no problems if you do it again. Swearing/kicking inanimate objects etc can help. Goodluck.

It means Engine Systems fault on a Mk2 Focus. It can be caused by a breakdown in the CANbus system. Just like Damian says, there will be codes, probably U codes, that can be read by a good scanner like Forscan. The classic 2006 Mk2 (slight typo there, Damian!) Instrument Cluster (IC) problem is a bad solder joint where the CANbus connects to the back of the IC. It can cause a huge range of problems, from dodgy dials & mileage readings, to reported (false) ABS and steering errors, to complete vehicle immobilisation. It is very common, but there are other related causes, like wiring connectors. I fixed the bad solder joint for free with my trusty soldering iron. There is a PDF about that: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=40491 Some companies claim to repair them for about £100, but you need to be fairly sure it is the IC. A Ford franchise garage will probably charge about £800+ for a new one. My standard intro to Forscan follows: Forscan is a powerful Ford specific system, Cost £15.00 for the interface. Needs a computer of some sort. (COM port, USB, Bluetooth or WiFi interfaces available). You will find a lot about ELM327 & Forscan on this site, which together provide a very comprehensive diagnosis & maintenance tool. James (jeebowhite) has done a nice guide: http://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=21196 Forscan works best on a Windows laptop, with a USB ELM. The Tunnelrat one (below) has been reported to work well by several people. Forscan is also available for iOS & Android for some tablets & phones. For a USB ELM327 adapter, see http://www.spanglefish.com/TunnelratElectronics/index.asp?pageid=516992 Wireless ELMs are also available (bluetooth & WiFi), but are often not as reliable as the wired ones. Also they are rare in the "modified" form which is needed to access the 2nd Ford bus system. This 2nd bus is the MS-CAN bus, and links all the car interior electronics like door modules, and the BCM (aka GEM). But a standard ELM will still work with all the Underbonnet Modules (PCM, ABS etc) and with the IC (Instrument Cluster). For an bluetooth wireless ELM, which one user at least says works with Forscan, see the KW902: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ELM327-KW902-Bluetooth-Scaner-OBD-Link-OBD2-Diagnose-Interface-Tester-white-UK-/281631334205 The Forscan programme is free (in Windows format) and you can get it from: http://forscan.org/download.html Note: Simply reading the codes can do no harm, and does not change anything. Just do not reset the codes (and you would have to ask the scanner to do this) if you are going to take the car to a garage.

We bought a couple of them for our boys last Christmas, think they got fed up with them after a couple of weeks! They've lost the remotes now! I stuck one of the bulbs in the police sign I spoke about the other day, looks quite good with the colours changing