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Maxton design

11 gallons of Stella "I'll try anything once" spoken like a true Scot @jmurray01 lol So @lenny does that mean someone somewhere is driving around in 171 D 1? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

bluefin on my focus eco 100. no problems and been on since oct 14, and driven 24k with it on ( car on 51k now) dont drive hard every day but the power is there when i need it. easy to take map off when required.

David, you might be ok. What has probably happened is that the pad has worn so thin that the backing plate has started to rub on the corroded ridges that form on thedisc outside the swept area. With luck the actual swept area will still be undamaged. I would take a careful look at the inner surface of the disc when you take the old pads out. If the outer pad has indeed worn so thin and the inner one is still thick it is likely the inner one has stuck in the carrier so has not been contacting the disc much in which case you might find the inside surface is corroded.

Ringo seems to have taken to barking randomly on his late night walks recently. Not what you want at 2am...

Thanks mate 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Yep 👇 Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS Front Lip spoiler Click Here Guide to Fitting Genuine focus Mk2.5 ZetecS rear Diffuser Click Here Full ZetecS Kit Fitted to Mk2.5 Focus Click Here

So I'm gonna need the lower spoiler from the Zetec S and can't fit it to a standard front bumper?

Climair are better quality and are expensive but Heko look allot better on the car. Here is a picture of my Climairs.

I don't know about groves but what I meant by the grooves are the sliding faces that locate the pads in the carrier. They are what absorb the forces on the pads when braking. The caliper itself just floats and simply squeezes the pads together. It doesn't take any of the rotational forces when braking.

Got the car washed today and the sidelight fixed. Still have to sort out my headlight. It's point away over to the left. Is there a horizontal adjustment on the headlights ? Some pics: My wee helper: Inside all wiped too: Happy days [emoji6] Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

Ive got hekos i put a little pinstripe detail on mine just to make them stand out abit more

Heck guys, I've had some quality information overload today! I'm learning fast. I'll probably be dreaming about floating caliper clouds whilst looking for a lost brake pad on a roundabout There's so much to take in on that post but one question that arises as you mention minimum brake thickness. I used a micrometer today to measure the front disc thickness as it's been on my to do list for a while. They came in at 22.90 & 23mm. Pads are 60% worn. MOT due in May. Should i run the pads down a bit more and change discs before MOT, assuming that would be an MOT failure? Secondly, I was going to measure the rear disc thickness but there's a guard in the way so couldn't get my micrometer on them and couldn't be bothered to figure out if/how it comes off - was busy looking at the pads!! How do i get it out the way to measure up the single disk at the rear?

No problem, For the handbrake cable you will need to extend it by a few feet and remove the centre console to splice it in to the cable on the side of the handbrake, I can guide you on removing that too if required 😅

Cool. Thanks for that. There's a lot of cables there so I'm sure it's one of them. They all seemed to be labeled too.

Can be diplomatic people 😅 but no D are County Dublin plates

Now that looks like a project and a half.

No problem, If the reverse camera isint very clear at night you may also like this guide: Guide To Fitting Second Reverse Light Ford Focus Mk2.5 Click Here

Excellent, that should help when I'm putting the head unit back in, thanks so much for everything Lenny, really appreciate it.

Does the harness you've purchased have the ability to swap the red and yellow wires? Some head units use a different pin out. If you provide the exact model and cable harness you've bought we'll be able to tell youl.

no fail on the cameras atall as there not on the list of items to be checked, a rear wiper isint part of the checklist unless it's present on the vehicle, I've removed mine and passed.Guide To De-Wiper Rear Of Focus Mk2 & Mk2.5 Click Here regarding the vents you need two screwdrivers and a torch, Press doen the clips with screwdrivers and slide them out towards yourself. they slide back in without any tools, see images 👇 having fitted the reverse camera c

Does and its possibly an Audi A1 aswell but it's not me 😅 im still in the 2010 also personalized plates are not allowed here but registrations such as 171 D 6, 171 D 106, 171 D 206, 171 D 555 etc. are usually taken up by Mazda Volvo Peugeot and Subaru for the 555

Staking his territory against perceived intruders. Sent from my SM-G930F

That looks kind of weird, really, like how that could happen and why it won't go back? Or maybe the old "if you can't move it by force, use more force" would help? But rathar don't quote me on this I was actually changing light bulbs today on my MK2 (high beams went out) and I found a part of dried-out leaf inside the headlight! How the hell could it got there??!! Inside the enclosed headlight! You might be looking at the same thing here, maybe even during some light bulbs change, or something, you could have just pushed a little bit more and moved the bezel and it's now stuck in there...it might not have been the garage afterall...

They typically look like this (This the only one I know of and it's in Manchester so they're not too common)

Red light cameras are usually as conspicuous as Gatso speed cameras i.e. fairly big and often yellow...

Looking good. Can I ask where your front splitters from?

I'll have to keep my fingers crossed a Zetec S kit is a subtle enough mod it won't get noticed, as after my last car I promised this one was gonna stay standard 😂

Hi Lenny, decided to take some questions to this post as it's relevant. Got to fit the head unit yesterday but just as I was finished I got a call so had to cancel fitting. Head unit was a pain as its so tight behind it with all the extra cables. Not looking forward to taking it back out. Made a start today at fitting the camera but had to abandon it pretty quickly because of the cold. Got the first two panels off so they can stay off in the boot and got the stock light out and this is my first question. As you can see from the photo I have a yellow and black wire. The other photo is the camera kit I got, definitely not a patch on your set up. This wire has a black and red wire. Do I join black to back and yellow to red? Also would scotch locks be ok for joining or would I be better of cutting off the bulb and splice the cables that way. I can't see where I run the cables after this but I haven't taken off the metal inside panel yet so I'm sure this will be obvious once I remove this.

I'll try anything once!!

Found the Airbag light fault. Just a loose connection under the driver seat

Is that the one for the ST 225? looks awesome by the way

Ive got all white

The car looks absolutely terrific on the last pics! Nicely done with the spacers! Personally I wouldn't go any lower than this, but that's also because our ***** roads, especially now after winter, it's more or less just a bunch of holes where used to be a road lol As for the headlights problem, there should be (at least on FF2 there are) two screws to control the headlights angle, one goes up/down and one left/right. When I'm getting my headlights sorted, the mechanic usually only uses the up/down screw, as there isn't that much ways to get the lights dissorted left/right. I have (had) the same problem, that it looked to me that one headlight is pointing too much to the center, but it only appeared that way when I was close to some object in front of me, during driving it was all ok - as also confirmed by mechanic later.

They hav double sided sticky stuff on them mate just heat it wif a hairdryer and they shud do the job Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

climairs for me . ive got hekos but dont like the way they fit ,mine are loose

Peter, the caliper slides on the guide pins in rubber grommets so it's most unlikely they would stick. The comment in your subsequent post is more germane. The pads can, and do, stick in the carrier due to the build-up of corrosion, brake dust and dirt and it's usually necessary to clean the carrier grooves and judiciously apply some copper grease.

Second this. Have some soft bristle brushes to hand. If they have a metal collar just electrical tape it to stop any scratching. Also, cut one of them down to stiffen the brushes, helps with some crevices.

looking good with the spacers fitted

I use satnav screen cleaning wipes to remove finger grease and dust. I also keep a 1" paint brush in the door pocket for getting dust out of vents and crevises. Sent from my SM-G930F

Safe to use for a while: I would say yes, but I would check that the brakes are not overheating when not being used. After driving for a while without much brake use, and coming to a gentle halt, see if the disks are very hot. A little wet brush is a less painful test than fingers, in case they are hot! Sizzle means hot, in either case. Grease: Something like: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/400344619952 (This is not for the inside of the caliper piston seal, you need the red rubber grease if you replace caliper seals, but it is fine for the sliding pins.) Copperslip or an equivalent is usually used (very sparingly) on the points of contact between pad and caliper bracket, and pad and piston. The pair is here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/351438387186 The asbestos warnings are way out of date now, just brush it away from you. There is not usually much on a disk brake anyway, it is all blown or washed away while driving. The Ford instructions above contain a couple of "interesting" differences: Clamping the hose and releasing the bleed nipple is supposed to avoid "flipping the master cylinder seals". When pistons are pushed back by hand, the danger of this is virtually zero. If rapidly pushed back with a powerful tool, there may be a small danger. The merits of crushing a high pressure flexible hose flat are up for discussion. I use a wind back tool that turns the piston, but all of the inwards pressure is simply hand pressure, and so avoid any risk of damage to the hose, and the need to bleed the brakes, by allowing the fluid back to the reservoir. They say no grease on the pad contact points. This is contrary to all advice I have heard to date, and the installation instructions provided by the pad manufacturers with their pads that I recall seeing. It is probably because some low grade spanner monkeys doing this job in low cost tyre brake & exhaust centers are prone to getting grease everywhere. Have a look round this forum and other places, and make up you own mind, is all I can say.

ClimAir is the other brand as supplied by Ford. Nearly twice the price though. Fans here for both brands, there are several threads. I haven't either, still weighing up the pros/cons. Some say there's a increase in wind noise, the Focus is noisy enough as it is... Good luck

When they was working they are much better haha

Front splitter cam from triple r composites

Right, so. The spacers are fitted. Before: Not sure what use those pics with the measuring tape are but it looks professional lol During: And after: All in all, a good mornings work done. I swapped the wheels from the front To the back as well as there's better thread on the rears. I'd say I would have gotten away with 25mm on the rear, for a bit more 'stance'. I'm happy enough for now, haven't driven yet but we'll see what happens. Now to sort out that arch gap.... (PS apologies, car is absolutely filthy. wash day tomorrow)

Bark, howl, squeal, squeak, moan, our dogs make all those sounds and more. Sometimes the smallest thing might set one of them off and all of a sudden you've got a scene like out of a wolf documentary . Our Doberman dislikes the horse in the neighbouring field, where as he doesn't give two hoots about her (just stands right up against the fence munching on the grass). Quietest dog we've had was our male Rottweiler who once knocked me flat on my backside as I walked through the pitch black through our front gate up to the door. The outside motion lighting had yet to detect me, and hadn't picked up Benson moving silently towards me, until he jumped up to greet me .

Up here at least the two places never to go for an MOT are main dealers and Kwik-Fit. Both will almost guarantee a fail and charge you the earth for parts and labour to fix the issue(s). An honest independent garage is best, as they have a reputation to keep and won't fail unless there is actually something wrong. That's my experience though, so it could be different where you are.

Finally fitted my genuine o/s amber indicator and gave her a good run up. :D

Unfortunately the wiring loom is behind the panel, however if the cable is present it could be taped around the front of the panel or even clipped in place at its proper location behind the mirror panel? Here's a couple of pictures of my manual window regulator panel...... Bearing in mind mine is a three door and a quite different to the five door one. This pic is what you will see behind the door card Next pic is the rear of the panel where all the important bits are.... The loom here is the most basic one with no mirrors,or windows, but it shows you where it's located and the route it runs to and from. (I dotted it with a white marker to make it more visible)