Leaderboard

This morning I went to open the boot of my MK2 Focus, on pressing the 'boot' button, nothing. Bugger, well at least it opened on the general unlock button. On getting back home, I tried again, then remembering that on my Merc, you need to hold the button in for several seconds, but again nothing, Then tried to do a diagnosis in my head. The other buttons on the remote work perfectly so unlikely to be a battery. so a last resort, looked up the owners manual to see if there was a 'what to do if it didn't work' bit. Then I saw it - you have to press the button twice in succession within 3 seconds! Honestly folks, try your best not to get old, it can make an awful fool of yourself! 🤣

Don't know about you guys, but couldn't get into it this series. Only things I found of much interest were the Renault Megane RS test and the Suzuki Ignis vs Panda mountain climb - hopefully I'll find the ST item good too. I did have an idea to revitalise the show, though. Replace the "Star in a reasonably priced car" thing with "Totally unknown guy (ie me) in an outrageously priced car". 😀Whaddya reckon?

Now that would confuse my old brain😜

Just dropped the car off at the dealers and they confirmed they will be applying the software update [emoji847] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not gingerist. Some of my friends are ginger. Lol He was just a gob *****

I haven't watched top gear since that Evans bloke spoilt it.

The police will not agree with you on that one.

I have a set wife has a set and a spare set at home so I should be ok if I can remember were I live ha ha😃

If you look at the lower screw just above it you will see a black plastic release tab. Squeeze it and the wiring block will pull back and off the bulb. With that out the way you can swap the bulb and then slide the wiring block back on to the bulb. You'll see the silver plastic prongs help line the block up when you slide it on.

I did this once. Fortunately for me, I'd already opened the rest of the car first. Now I always check that I have the key on me before closing the boot.

According to the saying, "only the good die young" so most of us on here should be safe😀

Yep - been there, done that. Cost me 50 quid for a taxi home and back for the spare key (fortunately my house key was seperate), not done it again!😀

Could've been worse, once you got it open you could have then left your keys in the boot and closed it! 😂

After finding out I was missing a rubber seal just inside the drivers door under the little window, I got the part from Ford for £1. The second image is how I found out it was missing and is from the passenger side.

Looks fantastic mate, well done!

there's no limit how far you can go but there's a speed limit 50 miles a hour but you should get your other tyre fixed as soon as

Hello every one

Thanks Stoney

@Bannkocan you PM me details of how to add the navigation to my 2015 kuga?

Could have been worse - at least you didn't scuff an expensive alloy wheel.

I've done that twice now. Only realised that I'd done it when the boot auto reopened. Keyless you see, the car knows that the key is locked in the boot and re opens.

Which engine specifically? (So we can work out which of the 2 possible dual clutch gearbox models you have in your car).

I'd have my head in my hands if it was me!

Thank-you Mark M.Your a star

They can be quite useful if you're prone to reversing into bollards which you didn't notice before trying to park.😀 On a new car it's something like £200 for sensors or £250 for sensors + camera, so worth having I think. Not sure if I'd go to the bother of fitting it retrospectively though, and as Pete says very prone to being obscured by road muck in bad weather.

mine is grey. had to replace mine and my local dealer only charged me £2.42 last year. they didnt have it in stock and took them a couple of days. so your local dealer should be able to do the same.

You can activate some options by forscan, but to get speed in the middle etc, you need to flash other firmware. To get the pointers etc, you need a modified file. I don't know if it is possible with Forscan, but it sure can be done by UCDS

The only thing that really freaks me out to be honest is my wallet.I’m continually seeking reassurance that it’s in my pocket.I know it's their but it still freaks me out and I have a big panic ha ha usually when I’m behind the wheel 😯

I'd go for 3 sets just to be extra safe because you never know.......! 😉

Just been out to the car and my current one is grey, and a slightly different design, they changd the easyfill system a few years back somthat would explain it, and the Mondeo diesel one is black and the old design, so best to disregard my previous post,

I always carry 2 keys on 2 separate key rings.This strategy has saved me a lot of inconvenience and potentially money👍

Not sure why you are specifically looking at 2008 but that would give you a choice between a very late Mk 6.5 or possibly a very early Mk 7. If looking at diesel, the 1.4 is generally regarded as underpowered and the 1.6 is a much better bet as @zain611 suggests. Petrol wise, I've heard it said that the 1.4 doesn't offer much advantage over the 1.25. I've had both a 1.6 diesel and a 1.25 petrol and they were both fine, though I'd agree with @TomsFocus and incline towards diesel if doing higher mileage ( unless you're in an emission zone).

The 110bhp version in the Mk2 Focus is a GT1544v. But as you say it's VNT turbo so not a straight swap for the 90bhp model. The 8v 115bhp Mk3 turbo is a tiny GTC1244vz but it's not a straight swap for the Mk2 version. There aren't any straight swaps from other cars for this engine, best thing to go is to go hybrid.

Unfortunately the only alternative is dying young. No thanks.

That used to happen to my car and the garage couldn't find the fault, after about 2 yrs I found out that it was the heater plug relay. It was the brown one under the bonnet on my car.

Thanks

Forscan is very easy to use, once you have used it the first time! The car user manual will tell you where the diagnostic socket is. Usually under the dash between steering wheel & door. It must be within a short distance of the driving position. You may or may not need a driver software to use a USB ELM327, depends on your OS. BT & WiFi ELMs are a bit less reliable than USB, but should appear on your computer's BT / WiFi tool. Downloading & installing Forscan is really simple (at least on a windows laptop, I have not tried the Apps). You have to click a connect button to make it connect & analyse the car. A forum member did a little guide: https://www.fordownersclub.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=58645 People here may be able to help if you get problems. Being able to read the codes as they appear, then record and clear them to see if they return, is a huge benefit. Re O2 sensor, some diesels do have O2 sensors, On the Focus, one version of the 1.6TDCI (EURO 5 I think) does have one. Quite possibly same for the Fiesta. If you have the 1.6TDCI (I can see from your rpm gauge it is not likely to be petrol!), then getting the actual code to verify this verbal report becomes even more crucial. DTCs are a vital clue in locating a problem, but only a clue. They should never be 100% trusted, old fashioned diagnosis by symptoms and testing is still required. What the software thinks is wrong may not be the actual fault. I first encountered this on my previous car, a Vectra. Code said MAF problem, but the symptoms stacked up with the idle control valve (it was a petrol engine). Full cleaning of the ICV cured it. The reason was that the ICV was not monitored, so when stuck closed, the ECU just saw a low airflow from the MAF, making the engine stall, but had no way to determine the real cause. So the software had to guess, and got it wrong, though in the right area. This general problem happens very often.

In terms of fitment h8 and h11 and I believe even h9 and interchangeable, for aftermarket bulbs you may notice some slight variances to how tightly each will lock in place but overall there should be no issues I'm running h11 for my mk2.5 and the only thing I've noted between them all has been a slight change to the lumens put out on specs of same-brand bulbs. Of course, ideally you would want to run a matched pair of bulbs to keep the colour cast/outputs the same, mind!

That is a very irritating feature of all the forums I have seen. So often, I follow a likely looking thread, it seems to be getting to an answer to a problem, then it just dies! But not just FOC. In fact I would say FOC is better then average, just occasionally an OP does bother to come back at the end to say if he/she fixed the problem & how, but not often. I guess 90% of posters come to a forum to ask a question. Most of the other 10% come for a chat, or show off pics of their favorite new / modded car - and nothing wrong with that! Only a small minority trawl forums looking for interesting questions to answer. FOC seems to have more than its fair share of those, though!

Cheers pal might just invest back into mine

I had the 'team of hamsters' from my moonroof when the temperature was sub zero. I wiped Silicone Spray Lubricant on all the seals and it seemed to stop the noise.

Hi Mate I can tell you from experience that the 1.6 has a floating crank pulley and does have to come off to change belt. you do need the correct pin that you take a bolt out of bottom of engine and screw it in to set bottom end and locking bar for cams. get yourself a timing locking kit before starting also the crank bolt can be very very tight and you sometimes require a impact air gun to get it off. however you can do it yourself at home but if you not sure get garage to do it costly if you mess up Cheers Alan

They are intended to just get you home not for daily use. I kept my old 16s and use one of them after getting home with a space saver. it's like driving along with plastic wheels like you used to get on the old kid bikes 😂

The main problem with spacesavesrs is heat. As long as it's correctly inflated (around 60psi iirc!) and you do not exceed 50mph it should be ok for days or even weeks in theory. They affect handling badly though so I would get it sorted asap, I know of a few people that have crashed on them, they can be lethal in the wet.

Job So far , Just need to fig out how to get auto gear selector surround out to get to leds then switch`s , already done led`s in roof light`s

Follow my dash cam guide for a switched live, Just use a piggy back fuse adapter. The feed then becomes live with ignition

Hi Pete do you have the lift lid on top of your dash ? I put a aux power supply under obd socket then ran sat nav cable up behind clocks and put a hole inside unit under lid then cable stays in lid out of way and when I want sat nav I lift lid clup sat nav on close lid sat nav has a disk on lid nice and tidy. cheers Alan

If you remove the stereo you should be able to see better up there to get an idea where to do it safely. Here is Lenny chopping away at his dash

I’m afraid that’s just how it is with the Focus, it’s a very heavy car and in reality a 78bhp 1.4 is far too underpowered for the job. Although I can’t imagine a 1.4 Octavia would be much better in all honesty, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with your car.

It wont need oil change, thats for the 450 box, the 1.6 peyrol powershift uses the 250 box, There will be an outstanding software recall on your car that will need doing.