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Guide For Fitting Daytime Running Lights Focus Mk2.5


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#46 Lenny

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Posted 17 March 2012 - 10:35 PM

the Dual Tail light mod is also on my list,
But unfortunitly i have to get the car serviced next month and its the third srevice 55,000km so im expecting it to cost me in the reigon of 300euro due to the eloys fluid needing topping up,
so my next purchase is one of those diagnostic connectors, and some Osram Night Breaker Plus H1 and H7. then its service time,

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#47 Leemaxd

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 07:53 PM

Let us know how it goes fitting them drl's Lenny, this is something I wanna do next. :)

#48 Lenny

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 08:21 PM

Let us know how it goes fitting them drl's Lenny, this is something I wanna do next. :)


Hi mate,
ive fitted them yesterday, very happy with the results and they dim when the lights are turned on too,

i followed prees guide only difference i fitted the controllers to the back of the battery box.

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#49 Leemaxd

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Posted 18 March 2012 - 09:49 PM

Cool they look well nice, we're they easy to fit ?

#50 Lenny

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 08:58 AM

Cool they look well nice, we're they easy to fit ?


Thanks mate,
They were very easy and enjoyable to fit following pree’s guide,
I also fitted a switch next to the diagnostic slot the same as pree’s guide and run a twin core feed from it to the positive feed of the DRL’s enabling me to switch them off completely if needs be.


I cut the DRL positive feed in half then spliced the black feed to one end and the red feed to the other, thus filtering the positive feed and running it through the switch.

But I had a few times that got hard but that was only because I got perticular and wanted to fit the controllers to the rear of the battery box,
which meant I had to disconnect the cable connector to the engine fuse box, then disconnect the battery, remove the battery and store it upstairs in the house because a cement floor will zap the life out of it,

Then manoeuvre the battery box to get it out of there, followed my purchasing some M5x30 cheese head bolts and nuts,
I marked up the area for the controllers. followed by drilling the holes with a 4.5mm drill bit, not a 5mm thus allowing the 5mm bolts to thread their way through the battery box, resulting in a tight fit particularly when you grind the excess bolt from the inside of the battery box, the bolt will get hot and bond to the battery box so there is no chance they would vibrate loose.


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if fitting the controllers to the rear of the battery box, you need to fit them if the same formation as I have on mine, because they won’t fit side by side due to some part of the car being on the right side of the battery box,

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do not fear that the battery will rub off the bolts because there is around one inch of clearance between the battery and the rear of the box.

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The loom supplied with the kit is already pre moulded with connectors, I run it from the rear of the battery box, under the air box and down to the front passenger fog light, then up a bit and across to the driver’s side by tapping it to a bit of garden hose and pushing it through the gap between the sub frame and the front grill, once it the other side then down to the driver’s side fog light,

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Removed the original fog light surrounds and drilled a 20mm hole in each to fit the cables through for the DRL’s same as pree’s guide.

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the only wiring that has to be done is to connect the blue wire to the blue and orange cable on the passenger side headlight, trace back down the cable under the sleeve to the joint and splice it in there,

Earth cable was next and it comes prewired with a ring connector on it so I fit it like a washer to the bolt on the top of the engine fuse box.

last connection was to remove the 10amp ignition fuse and fit the DRL positive feed fuse connector, and fit the 10amp fuse in to the DRL fuse adaptor,

The white wire with the kit that runs alongside the blue, I just tapped it up because you either fit the blue wire to the headlight or the white,

If you fit the white, then the drl’s will switch off completely when you switch on your lights.

If you fit the blue, the drl's will dim by 50% when you switch on your lights.

Job done. The whole thing from start to finish tool me 03hrs 32min and I enjoyed every minute,
They even stay illuminated for 30 seconds after you have removed the key from the ignition similar to the walk me home feature available in the mk2 focus.


#51 the jbib

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Posted 11 April 2012 - 11:12 PM

It looks smart and 'factory fitted,' but sadly I don't trust myself playing around with the wires. Plus, will the warranty be affected?

#52 Lenny

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 07:15 AM

It looks smart and 'factory fitted,' but sadly I don't trust myself playing around with the wires. Plus, will the warranty be affected?

its really not a big job mate,
all the wires are part of the kit and are supplied pre moulded connections,
so you just plug them in to each other,

the only things you need to do yourself is drill a 20mm hole in the bumper on either fog light section,
connect the blue cable to the blue & Orange cable at the rear of the passenger headlight,
remove the 10amp fuse in the engine fuse box and plug it in to the piggy back one, then plug the piggy back one in to the fuse box.

the positioning of the modules is personal choice, you don't need to remove your battery box and fit them behind it, you can fit them anywhere you wish.
and the fitting of a switch is purely personal choice too, as they are DRL's they are designed to illuminate when the key is turned in the ignition so you don't need a switch fitted if you don't want to.

i don't see how this modification would effect your warranty because it run and operates independently
from any of the cars operations. and its got a fuse fitted so worse thing to happen is the fuse will blow and you need to buy a new one, but that wont happen because all the cables are colour coded just plug in to each other.

#53 RichyU

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 06:24 AM

Posted ImageHi All,
I have attempted to fit DRL's on my ST (see pic) but am having some problems.
I have tried hooking up the wiring to the dash switch to the right of the steering wheel. Many people have pointed out the wire I need to use that turns off when the headlights come on etc however on my car that wire is constantly live on the ignition. I have a feeling this is due to having Autolamps andd therefore not having the R15 relay. Can anyone confirm the part number of the R15 relay on a facelift mk2?
Thanks,

#54 Lenny

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:52 AM

Hi All, I have attempted to fit DRL's on my ST (see pic) but am having some problems. I have tried hooking up the wiring to the dash switch to the right of the steering wheel. Many people have pointed out the wire I need to use that turns off when the headlights come on etc however on my car that wire is constantly live on the ignition. I have a feeling this is due to having Autolamps andd therefore not having the R15 relay. Can anyone confirm the part number of the R15 relay on a facelift mk2? Thanks,

Hi mate, your DRL's look great, i will have a look on Ford microcat later when i get home and tell you the part number for the relay, but a cheaper option may be to fit one of these auto dimmers from gen-labs that will dim your drl's by 50% when your parking lights come on, regardless if your lights are automatic or manual, once it sences positive feed in the parking lights it will dim the drls to 50% making them legal and the same illumination level as your parking lights. i have fitted one to my focus for my ford racing gauges to get them to dim when the parking lights are activated because they were too bright at night driving. here is a link to the item: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35bd9f829a and here is some wiring information and diagrams for the item, i reckon it would be cheaper than the relay and better results since the drls will still be illuminated and legal too. http://www.fordowner...-gauges-or-drl/ Posted Image
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#55 RichyU

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 03:59 PM

Hi Lenny,
Thanks for your comments, only I am hoping to make the setup as OEM as possible and using the existing circuitry would be much more effective. I even understand there are DRL plugs on the main headlight loom so may consider using that instead of running to the dash, however currently the lights aren't working and I think its a relay only problem. When I spoke to the (unhelpful) guy at Ford Parts (my local one) he looked on the Ford Tech system and said that there was no way to identify the actual relay I need, great help as ever!

#56 Lenny

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 04:08 PM

Hi Lenny,
Thanks for your comments, only I am hoping to make the setup as OEM as possible and using the existing circuitry would be much more effective. I even understand there are DRL plugs on the main headlight loom so may consider using that instead of running to the dash, however currently the lights aren't working and I think its a relay only problem. When I spoke to the (unhelpful) guy at Ford Parts (my local one) he looked on the Ford Tech system and said that there was no way to identify the actual relay I need, great help as ever!


but you know what you require is the R15 relay,
luckily i have the same programme that he woud have been looking at,
i purchased the software because i was sick of the same issue's with ford over here,
so now i just use the software myself then go in to ford requesting the part number and i need to tell them nothing lol
or even buy it from ford in the uk through ebay.

their is no need to run the cables in to the interior either mate,
their is an ignition live feed in the engine fuse box, and a signal feed can be obtained at the rear of the headlights like you say mate,
we just run a feed in to the interior in order to fit a rocker switch so that we can switch the drl's off if ever required for stealth mode lol

ill get you a screen shot of the part later, along with a price and a finis code.

#57 Lenny

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 07:39 PM

the R15 relay is finis 1425751
but you may also require finis 1684288 its a jumper cable
but i believe some of the parts required are not available in the uk mate,
see here:
http://www.fordowner...mk2-mk25-c-max/


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#58 RichyU

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:15 PM

Cheers Lenny,
Only problem is, I understand its a 5 pin not 4 pin relay I need (an assumption due to R15 having 5 slots) can give you a pic of the fusebox if that helps or my number plate?
Thanks for the help so far!

#59 Lenny

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Posted 26 June 2012 - 08:49 PM

Cheers Lenny,
Only problem is, I understand its a 5 pin not 4 pin relay I need (an assumption due to R15 having 5 slots) can give you a pic of the fusebox if that helps or my number plate?
Thanks for the help so far!


no problem mate,
this is as much as i know regarding the relay and factory fit DRL's mate,
but if you follow the link to pidu's guide he has used the same relay that i have linked you to and has gotten his lights to function as DRL's the guy also wrote some diagnostic software for the focus to allow us to activate new features via a re-wired ELM327 so he really know what he is talking about regarding the focus and modifications. i cant explain why the relay socket would have 5 slots and only use four, but i can send you screen shot of all of the relays if you wish?
http://www.fordowner...mk2-mk25-c-max/

#60 RichyU

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Posted 27 June 2012 - 06:06 AM

Thanks Lenny,
Might just get the relay and hope for the best, tbh its only £25 in the bigger scheme of things. The jumper cable says for halogen lights only, I have xenons so guess that it works differently. Plus I'm hoping to run proper DRL's not just dimmed headlights so might try without that.

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