Dee_82

2008 2.0 140ps TDCI timing belt locking pins

Recommended Posts

Evening all, just a quicky.  ill need to be doing the belt in few weeks and ill be needing to get some locking pins, the CAM, crank etc pins look easy enough but I have a question about the flywheel

Ive seen two different tools for this one, ones a pin with a right angle, the other is some bracket with 3 bolts on it, anyone know what the difference is and ideally, got any pictures!!

:) 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

the pin at right angles is the crank alignment pin, not a locking tool. fits in a hole behind starter motor.

the bracket one locks the flywheel for the purpose of removing the tight crank bolt

on most bracket flywheel locking tools theres 2 or 3 different adapters depending on depth to flywheel teeth. the bracket bolts to the stater motor bolt holes in block. 

you will probably need a hair dryer or warm air gun also. 

s-l225 (1).jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, ok, that makes sense, the videos ive seen use an air gun on the crank bolt and didn't bother with the locking tool, just the crank and cam alignment pins, my Haynes just turned up, damn things are only sold in paperback now.

whats the hair dryer for?

Cheers Ian!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the crank bolt can need warming up. i wouldnt advise air gunning the bolt off, known to snap the crank bolt on 2.0 but its up to you. i dont.

i lock the flywheel and use a breaker bar to undo. if the crank bolt goes tight coming out , then i warm the crank bolt up as per etis instructions and carry on undoing. 

lad at work had a nightmare getting the bolt out on one last week and then struggled getting new one in. lots of locktight on the original bolt caused his problem.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah, I'm with you. yeah, for the sake of 20 quid to lock off the flywheel with the proper tool, might as well do it right and reduce the risk.  Just whilst I have your attention Ian. DMF and Clutch on this car. I know the subframe needs dropped to even get to it but whats the rough cost, looks like a big job?   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

6.5 hrs is the labour time plus parts. just had a quick check on eurocarparts for a price guide and parts alone are approx £750. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/10/2018 at 6:53 AM, iantt said:

6.5 hrs is the labour time plus parts. just had a quick check on eurocarparts for a price guide and parts alone are approx £750. 

Ouch! :shock:

@iantt Is that parts price for all decent parts i.e. LUK?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Euro car parts prices are all over the place, their sister site has slightly better prices but both seem to  always have inflated prices and 35% off discount events. 😕

I can probably get parts for about 400, LUK or sachs. I actually have an LUK clutch and sachs DMF for my 1.6 tdci, shes knocking about and slips a lot if I drop the hammer but im determined to get rid of her before having to do it. so if anyones wanting a complete clutch and DMF kit on the cheap! 🙂 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now