On 9/26/2018 at 4:21 PM, Docker said:

Due to not being able to find any help on this post I thought I would join you all and hopefully help anyone who is having climate control heater problems

My mk7 Fiesta with automatic climate control came up with a fault of only blowing cold air through all the temperature settings and what ever I read on Google said the heater resistor.

No it's not the heater resistor  Nox Vidmate VLC as that controls the fan speed. This is on right side of the heater by passengers foot (by the passengers right foot is a panel with 1 screw and some clips)

Automatic climate control Mk7 Fiestas have 3 actuators fitted due to all the automation and no matter how hard you google there isn't any thing out

Right hand dive locations (left hand swap driver and passenger round) all are mounted on the heater unit and Haynes say remove the whole unit

1 actuator is behind the glove box (need to remove the glove box complete 2 pins attach it and its in front of you by the fusebox) this controls the Recirculation flap

1 actuator is by the passengers right leg (again for ease take the glove box out the by the passengers right foot is a panel with 1 screw and some clips it's on the left of the heater) this controls all the flaps for the different vents

1 actuator is by the drivers left leg (by the drivers left foot is a panel with 1 screw and some clips) it's on the right side of the heater but the leg air bag is in the way (I managed to remove the actuator with a torx bit and a 1/4 drive spanner and left air bag in place) this controls the hot / Cold flap this is the one that broke on me

Test the actuators by removing the 2 torx screws and operating the relevant control if actuator works then it's the flaps. Mine was the arm that went from the actuator to the hot / Cold Flap. 

Part number Ford 1827184 £135 and you get all 10 parts to repair all the arms and controls I only needed 1 part or you can buy the whole heater unit, so went to scrap yard with no avail.

I then contacted a 3d printing company (Orija Designs, Woodley Berkshire) i gave them the broken arm and 1 day later they called me saying it's ready at a lot less than I was quoted at Ford (a lot less) part fits like a dream and I've got hot / Cold settings

I recon all these parts can be made with a 3d printer at less the the quoted price

Hope this helps anyone who looks at this post

I have is all electric, for example the air direction flaps are all electrically adjusted rather than mechanically....... look at this link I have found my exact issue,

On 2/7/2020 at 3:01 PM, simondo said:

I have a faulty Blend Door actuator too. The part no. is 1S7H-19E616-BB same as photo in previous post. Assuming the 'BB' part of the part no. denotes the when part was made, would example, 1S7H-19E616-AA or 1S7H-19E616-AB be compatible?

Hi mates, i have same problem like you too,

From what i know, i think part number should be same as exactly stated in the actuator itself, cause the 'AA' , 'AB' , and 'BB' have different specs each.

Now my problems is where to buy this parts with exact part number as stated ( 1s7h-19e616-bb ) coz this part is hard to find in my country indonesia.

Any help will be appreciated.

Hi All, 

I have a Ford Fiesta 2008 with the same problem,front passenger side the arm is split but motor is okay! The drivers side actuator is missing and the arm has been blue tacked in position I ordered a actuator from a scappy who assured me the unit ending in CA was the correct one, not so, I has a totally different plug for a start! I notice yours ends in BB for the right drivers side, this the exact unit on my passenger side, are these units the same for both passenger & driver Vistoen VP1S7H-19E616-BB? this is driving me up the wall, I hope you can help?  

Edited September 9, 20205 yr by Bevy
Wrong title

Morning guys.

Thank God this thread existed , however I have some more information regarding part numbers.

VP1S7H-19E616-BB is for 10 plate fiestas up

VP1S7H-19E616-AB will also fit and can be found in MKIV Mondeos and Mkii Focus

vp1s7h-19e616-AA can be found on Xtype jags and won't fit.

Managed to grab three from a MKIV Mondeo from a local scrap yard paid a Fiver each. installed them and worked like a charm.

Tried getting quotes for the part in breakers yard.. Cheapest was ₤130 quid plus £27 delivery 

 

 

 

Hello

I have a Ford Fiesta 2011. I have a faulty VP1S7H-19E616-BB and I am in desperate need of a new one since it's starting to get really cold. But I am really struggling to find one. Not even aftermarket stuff. Only finding 2 used ones on Ebay from Spain for around £70 total, yikes, and it might not even work! I do find a lot of cheaper used 1S7H-19E616-AB parts on ebay though, but without the VP on the part as mentioned by Steve above. Example:

  2006 JAGUAR X-TYPE HEATER FLAP MOTOR 1S7H-19E616-AB | eBay

Will those without the VP on the part fit my car or is my only option to by from Spain?

Hey guys,

I'm having the same problem, but for me what is worst, that I can hear air blowing somewhere when I turn control unit on max, but from the vents come only small amount of air. I tried to change lever position which controls the air moving path, but nothing differently happening. I'm afraid that the actuator which is on the top of the whole air unit is broken. I cannot guarantee that, but i feel like thats the problem.

For me the interesting part is why these all parts broke down. I want to ask everyone, does the problem repeated again for them ? I have a theory that control unit is faulty and when you put it to the max temperature or different air movement, actuator goes beyond its limits and it break the levers. 

What do you think guys, any ideas ?    

I have the replacement actuator arm on sale here:  https://www.shapeways.com/product/8G4K72BEC/ford-climate-control-heater-actuator

This is 3d printed in nylon making it stronger than the original part. 

 

Hi guy's, I'm not sure if anyone is still replying to this forum but I have the exact same issue. My heating is just blowing cold air. I followed the instructions by Docker and thought that was it. Found out the actuator was broken. It all seemed to show it was the same issue as docker which after taking it a part it is. UNTIL when I removed the actuator I found that not only is the actuator broken but the mechanism the actuator sits in is slightly cracked. It's got a slight crack inside it so now I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions? If I super glue the new actuator I buy into the mechanism surely that defeats its purpose of moving from hot to cold? Sorry if this is a stupid question but does the actuator move from hot to cold (that's what I'm thinking it does). I've added a picture so you guys can see what I mean. Any help will be much appreciated! 

Has anyone got any idea to get the actuator VP1S7H19E616-BB from anywhere as it is driving me mad trying to find one.

Hi I have a 59reg titanium with electronic heater that is stuck on hot air, it won't change to cold  even when the dial says low any help would be great thank you 

On 5/14/2021 at 11:00 PM, SamFletch said:

Has anyone got any idea to get the actuator VP1S7H19E616-BB from anywhere as it is driving me mad trying to find one.

Hello! If you're still looking I finally found a aftermarket replacement back in mars in Mahle AA 52 000P. Could only find a replacement at those shady car part websites, but it seems to be the only option right now. I got what I expected and it's working.

On 11/9/2018 at 11:11 AM, Fiesta1.25 said:

Liked your guide on how to fix the heater issue, can you tell me if my issue is linked to the same actuator..... when I put my temp control to “max” I hear an intermittent sound of something like two plastic cogs grinding together, but this only happens when heat is set to max..... if I reduce the heat back one click to 28degrees the noise doesn’t happen?

Also when you unscrew the two torx, does the unit just lift off or is it aligned or attached to anything under it?

 

Have you found any solution for this? I'm having the same issue. The actuator fully closes the door when I set the temperature to the maximum, but if I change it to 28 degrees it will fully open the heat door instead of opening just a bit. Already tried two different actuators and the problem is always the same. 

What is the actuator on the driver’s side called and where can I buy one? 

I'm in the same position as Qazto, anyone got any idea on where to get it cheap from? Tried scrapyard, not paying £93 from ford.

Hi all

I am having the same problem with my wife`s fiesta, I have managed to get a replacement arm and second hand actuator. My problem now is getting actuator splines lined up so it all fits back snuggly. Is there a way anyone knows that could help......please ? I have had two separate 30-40 minute attempts only to get really frustrated being stuck in such a confined space...

Any help/advise gratefully received

Martin

Hey Guys, thanks for all the comments so far. Yeah, basically I was having the same issues finding VP1S7H19E616BB. This part is a total nightmare. Contacted places in Ukraine (currently under seige) to get this part, that sums up my desperation.

I phoned up Ford today though, guy was great and told me, this actuator, (VP1S7H19E616BB) is found in three places throughout the fiesta heater system. We assumed for recirculation, hot and cold air, then air direction. 

 

He informed me Ford sell this part, its basically a newer version of the BB variant. Called BC. I assume it may be better and more resistant to breaking. 

 

Anyway, you can find them available as of today, April 2022. 

VP1S7H19E616BC it's called. They're pricey enough, but worth it to get the heating fixed. To extract it, best use a drill (drill a hole at the very bottom of the footwell) and extra long allen keys to get the screws out, that's how I did it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Ford-Fiesta-Mk7-Mk8-EcoBoost-TDCi-Ti-Heater-Regulator-Motor-1768981-/393396572825?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

There you go boys, also call up your local Ford Parts garage to get them.

 

I'll buy it and see if it fits and works well, Ford tell me it should. Here's hoping.

 

Best of luck 👍 

 

On 1/15/2022 at 3:48 PM, matin briggs said:

Hi all

I am having the same problem with my wife`s fiesta, I have managed to get a replacement arm and second hand actuator. My problem now is getting actuator splines lined up so it all fits back snuggly. Is there a way anyone knows that could help......please ? I have had two separate 30-40 minute attempts only to get really frustrated being stuck in such a confined space...

Any help/advise gratefully received

Martin

Did you manage to sort it as I now have the same problem? Thanks Dave

This arm has broken on my fiesta and have ordered a replacement arm, but something I have noticed is the spline the arm fits on seems to be in a really odd position. Almost what looks like 180 degrees in the wrong position. I am not sure if this is why the arm broke in the first place.

Any advice or help would e appreciated.

Hello everyone, Happy new year. Sorry for wordy post to follow but….Exactly the same as DGBIGNOSE on my 2009 fiesta. The arm has split on passenger side where it sits over the actuator splined drive. The large white clip on guide suggests where the arm should travel to and mine also seems 180° out to fit the new arm which I’ve purchased. This means the metal rod will not reach its connection point (the rod that moves the blue quadrant which controls which vents air is directed through) and the large white plastic clip on guide won’t fit. I have also realised the same part number actuator on the drivers side (mounted with splined drive facing towards middle of car instead of away from middle of car as per passenger side) is what’s been making the seemingly common loud clicking noise (definitely confirmed as had my hand on it and felt it clicking). So my issue is do I have 2 knackered actuators (internal chewed plastic gear teeth) or can I somehow reposition the passenger splined drive to allow the flat side to align with the arm and just replace the drivers side actuator that’s clicking and hope it communicates with the passenger side actuator telling it where to be? I have no loss of heating control but just cannot change which vents I want. Have manually pulled metal rod down to leave all airflow on windscreen for now.

17 hours ago, Richhh said:

Hello everyone, Happy new year. Sorry for wordy post to follow but….Exactly the same as DGBIGNOSE on my 2009 fiesta. The arm has split on passenger side where it sits over the actuator splined drive. The large white clip on guide suggests where the arm should travel to and mine also seems 180° out to fit the new arm which I’ve purchased. This means the metal rod will not reach its connection point (the rod that moves the blue quadrant which controls which vents air is directed through) and the large white plastic clip on guide won’t fit. I have also realised the same part number actuator on the drivers side (mounted with splined drive facing towards middle of car instead of away from middle of car as per passenger side) is what’s been making the seemingly common loud clicking noise (definitely confirmed as had my hand on it and felt it clicking). So my issue is do I have 2 knackered actuators (internal chewed plastic gear teeth) or can I somehow reposition the passenger splined drive to allow the flat side to align with the arm and just replace the drivers side actuator that’s clicking and hope it communicates with the passenger side actuator telling it where to be? I have no loss of heating control but just cannot change which vents I want. Have manually pulled metal rod down to leave all airflow on windscreen for now.

 

17 hours ago, Richhh said:

Hello everyone, Happy new year. Sorry for wordy post to follow but….Exactly the same as DGBIGNOSE on my 2009 fiesta. The arm has split on passenger side where it sits over the actuator splined drive. The large white clip on guide suggests where the arm should travel to and mine also seems 180° out to fit the new arm which I’ve purchased. This means the metal rod will not reach its connection point (the rod that moves the blue quadrant which controls which vents air is directed through) and the large white plastic clip on guide won’t fit. I have also realised the same part number actuator on the drivers side (mounted with splined drive facing towards middle of car instead of away from middle of car as per passenger side) is what’s been making the seemingly common loud clicking noise (definitely confirmed as had my hand on it and felt it clicking). So my issue is do I have 2 knackered actuators (internal chewed plastic gear teeth) or can I somehow reposition the passenger splined drive to allow the flat side to align with the arm and just replace the drivers side actuator that’s clicking and hope it communicates with the passenger side actuator telling it where to be? I have no loss of heating control but just cannot change which vents I want. Have manually pulled metal rod down to leave all airflow on windscreen for now.

Hi mate. I think sorted mine. It seemed like the actuator needed re-calibrated. I don't know how it did it but try the following as it worked for me.

1. turn engine on and select Auto & AC to on.

2. turn off engine

3. remove fuse 20 (7.5A) from glove box (attached picture if helps)

4. start engine and run for 2 mins (you will notice the fan/temp  control panel will not be illuminated if you got the right fuse)

5. turn off engine and re fit fuse

6. turn on engine and hey presto the spline is in the correct position. (try changing the flow direction on panel and the spline seems much better to be inline with the white plastic clip).

Let me know if this works for you as well mate.

Cheers 

Thanks for that great idea… offering some hope. I will try it this week if I can. Do you think I should try to replace the driver’s side actuator (with loud clicking) before I risk fitting the new £17 arm to the passenger side actuator? If indeed the drivers side actuator ’talks’ to the passenger side actuator, the clicking fault could be causing it to try to move the passenger side actuator too far therefore chewing up another plastic arm?

On 1/3/2023 at 3:20 PM, Richhh said:

Thanks for that great idea… offering some hope. I will try it this week if I can. Do you think I should try to replace the driver’s side actuator (with loud clicking) before I risk fitting the new £17 arm to the passenger side actuator? If indeed the drivers side actuator ’talks’ to the passenger side actuator, the clicking fault could be causing it to try to move the passenger side actuator too far therefore chewing up another plastic arm?

I am not sure mate. I think the driver side one is for temperature control as the one we are referring to is air flow direction. I its clicking it sounds like it needs changing anyway, so i would just change that first.

If you do, you now know how to calibrate them.

Hope it works for you.

Cheers

Dave

Well a cold afternoon under the dashboard. I tried Dave’s idea above to do a ‘reset’ with fuse 20 etc and it seemed to move the passenger side actuator to a position where the arm would locate on the splined shaft. I then saw that the recirculate actuator (right in front of you when you drop the glove box) was the same part number. We’ve probably never used this button so I sacrificed that actuator to swap out to the drivers side position (the clicking actuator). Many ideas on here on how to access it, and I just pulled off the footwell airflow duct, drilled a hole in the lower trim to access the rearmost screw with a star bit and it came off easily enough. I swapped the actuators and once again (with it plugged in electrically but not mounted and car on) the splined drive wasn’t in the correct position. Tried Dave’s method again 2 or 3 times and still nowhere near?? Then suddenly it was and I wrapped up putting it back together. Rod reattached to passenger side and it seems to be working. I now have the recirculate actuator to sort out slowtime. I plugged it in to the electrical connector and pressed the recirculate button. The actuator responds by gently buzzing for a few seconds but no movement of the splined drive or clicking either? I took the actuator apart gingerly but no shredded gears or missing teeth inside?? So no idea why it was clicking quite loudly when fitted to the drivers side? So currently have left the recirculate actuator not fitted ( I hope the flap is in the correct position….i.e. not with outside air shut off. I’m sure it’ll reveal itself if the car keeps fogging up I suppose).

Looking more into this clicking noise. The design of the drive gears here seems to be that motion from the motor itself (not visible in my photos) the drive is transmitted via a castellated cup shaped part with a silver centre pin (directly below the two white gears in my second picture above) which engages with the 4 castellations on the small white gear in the bottom half of my first picture above. There is a small spring inside the castellations if you zoom in. I think this is to allow for any over travel of the actuator (howsoever caused) whereby the castellations ride out of each other but the spring pushes them back together as the teeth ride past each other…thereby making the clicking noise. The castellated teeth are not sharp square shaped, and have chamfered corners. This would prevent the actuator trashing itself completely the first time any resistance to movement was encountered. So the question now is, what is telling these actuators to try to move too far? The airflow position actuator in passenger side with metal rod connected, has a large white plastic clip which seems to be physical stop to limit the plastic arm moving too far.

Hi Docker,

Thanks for the original post which has been very helpful in identifying my problem.

Wondered if you can offer any tips on replacing the actuator by the driver's left leg.  Yes, its mking the cliccking noise that suggests its failed.

My Fiesta is 2009.  I've removed the lower panel and exposed the bottom of the heater.  I can see the actuator but its obscured by the panel going up around the little cubby hole, forward of the gear lever.   Can you just bend this away and use a ratchet type driver on the bolts or is it more complicated.

Thanks