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Do I really need a New Exhaust Injector for SMax

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Need some advice. I have a 2012 Ford Smax with 85K miles, always serviced by Ford. The engine malfunction light came on. Took it to a Garage who checked it out and said that I need a new Exhaust Injector. "DPF not getting up to temperature during Regen" is the fault. This part if to be bought from Ford and will cost £300 + Vat to supply & install

Having spoken to another garage over the phone, they said its unusual for a exhaust injector to fail at 85K miles and even so, if its blocked, can be cleaned and put back. 

Which version is true ?



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Can be both versions, blockages and be cleaned out, but also the vapouriser glow plug can fail requiring a new one. Checking for blockage is the first thing to do with it in situ. 

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Change mine in March 2017 and my car was on 65K miles. Mine was blocked solid (hard carbon build up) and although I did manage to clean it out it didn't work. The injector also contains a glow plug which can fail too. The injector (fuel vaporiser) can be bought for about £140 on eBay (genuine Ford).

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appreciate the quick replies. Will try to see if repairing/cleaning is an option depending on the condition, otherwise will go with the replacement for long term peace of mind as I plan to keep the car for another couple of years.

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If you're not going to clean it yourself then you might as well get a new vaporiser fitted rather than paying for labour charges, depending on their charge of course.

If you are going to clean it yourself then be prepared to spend some time on it depending on what tools you have. I started by spraying Carb cleaner in to the injector hole and scrapping the carbon away but it was soon apparent the the whole tube was caked in soot/carbon and there was no way to clean it through that hole. The next step was to remove the glow plug, but as you unwind it, it would twist the electrical feed wire, which I probably damaged and hence cleaning didn't work for me (I still have it but still not tested it), so I would recomend cutting the wire and then solder back together when you've finished. Once back in the car you may/will need to rest the DPF learned values and error codes by using a laptop, forscan and a modified USB ELM327 lead and then go for a drive.




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