Mike Rhinds Posted July 10, 2019 Share Posted July 10, 2019 Hi Guys, I'm wondering if any of you have come across this issue or have any pointers as to what it may be? I have recently purchased a 2009 Ford Focus Zetec 1.6TDCi (109PS) Hatchback. The heater blower is working i.e you set it to 1, 2, 3 or 4 and the blower changes speed/force. The blend control is also working i.e you can point it to windscreen/front vents or foot well etc. I can hear it change direction when selected and feel it. However, the heater is only blowing hot air no matter what setting you move it to - cold/hot/middle of the dial. Please see attached photo with the control know circled in red. Would any of you have any suggestions as to what may cause this? Kind regards Mike Rhinds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 10 hours ago, Mike Rhinds said: Hi Guys, I'm wondering if any of you have come across this issue or have any pointers as to what it may be? I have recently purchased a 2009 Ford Focus Zetec 1.6TDCi (109PS) Hatchback. The heater blower is working i.e you set it to 1, 2, 3 or 4 and the blower changes speed/force. The blend control is also working i.e you can point it to windscreen/front vents or foot well etc. I can hear it change direction when selected and feel it. However, the heater is only blowing hot air no matter what setting you move it to - cold/hot/middle of the dial. Please see attached photo with the control know circled in red. Would any of you have any suggestions as to what may cause this? Kind regards Mike Rhinds. The temperature dial in connected to a stiff wire cable that actuates a mechanism in the HVAC unit behind the dashboard, it could be a simple as the cable has snapped as it's not just 1 long run, it has a plastic part which is not likely to be a durable as the steel cable. Also the cable is held in place (under tension) on the rear of the panel you've pictured by a small white clip, the clip isn't very strong and if it breaks, the cable won't be under tension anymore resulting in enough slack that turning the temperature dial won't do a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rhinds Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 Thanks Damian, will strip the dash/radio and have a look. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F0CUE Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Even when the AC switch is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrBrightside Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 Does it just need recharged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 1 hour ago, F0CUE said: Even when the AC switch is on? 6 minutes ago, MrBrightside said: Does it just need recharged? Even if the AC is "on" and everything was working correctly, if the temp is set to full heat then the air being blown into the cabin should still be "hot". Running the AC in this scenario would just reduce the humidity/moisture levels in the air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F0CUE Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 22 minutes ago, 1979Damian said: Even if the AC is "on" and everything was working correctly, if the temp is set to full heat then the air being blown into the cabin should still be "hot". Running the AC in this scenario would just reduce the humidity/moisture levels in the air. He is meaning the air is not cold. Recently I had a similar scenario where the AC was not switched on and the cold setting was warm as it was very warm outside then realised the AC switch was off and turning it on immediately made the air ice cold. I had thought I needed a recharge which might be the case of he can't get any cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 3 minutes ago, F0CUE said: He is meaning the air is not cold. Recently I had a similar scenario where the AC was not switched on and the cold setting was warm as it was very warm outside then realised the AC switch was off and turning it on immediately made the air ice cold. I had thought I needed a recharge which might be the case of he can't get any cold. I guess we'll find out soon enough, I'd just gone on the op using the word "hot" rather than "warm". I know in my MK2 if it's warm outside and I have the dial on col but no AC on the air is pretty warm but couldn't really be described as "hot". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F0CUE Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 3 minutes ago, 1979Damian said: I guess we'll find out soon enough, I'd just gone on the op using the word "hot" rather than "warm". I know in my MK2 if it's warm outside and I have the dial on col but no AC on the air is pretty warm but couldn't really be described as "hot". I couldn't cope with that road rage would be starting lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted July 11, 2019 Share Posted July 11, 2019 2 minutes ago, F0CUE said: I couldn't cope with that road rage would be starting lol Yup, I also like the cabin to be nice and cool. The AC gets a regular run out on mine 👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rhinds Posted July 11, 2019 Author Share Posted July 11, 2019 Thanks for all the feedback guys, much appreciated. The air being blown out is warm/hot regardless of whether the AC button is switched on or my temperature dial is turned down to coldest setting. On initial looks, the cable is still attached to the white clip on the rear of the heater control panel module. It could be the case that the problem is at the other end of the cable/mechanism. I've got one panel off on the left of the drivers footwell but can't see how to get the other panel off to allow me access to the area I need to look at. Not a lot in the Haynes manual or online about it. I don't want to burst/break any panels. Will keep looking and welcome any more suggestions. Regards Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Rhinds Posted July 29, 2019 Author Share Posted July 29, 2019 ***UPDATE*** Just to let you know I have now fixed the issue - thanks to all and especially 1979Damian. The cable had indeed popped off at the HVAC box end. I managed to trace it and pop it back on to the plastic rod which moved the heater flap. However, it kept popping off. I slipped the plastic loop back on to the rod and I glued a rubber grommet on the end. This should stop the cable popping off but still allows the plastic loop on the end to turn freely. Tests fine - i get hot and cold from the heater and an added bonus is the AC works fine as well. 🙂 Thanks again for all your help and tips. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatHead1979 Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 11 minutes ago, Mike Rhinds said: ***UPDATE*** Just to let you know I have now fixed the issue - thanks to all and especially 1979Damian. The cable had indeed popped off at the HVAC box end. I managed to trace it and pop it back on to the plastic rod which moved the heater flap. However, it kept popping off. I slipped the plastic loop back on to the rod and I glued a rubber grommet on the end. This should stop the cable popping off but still allows the plastic loop on the end to turn freely. Tests fine - i get hot and cold from the heater and an added bonus is the AC works fine as well. 🙂 Thanks again for all your help and tips. You're welcome mate, glad you got it fixed on the cheap 👌 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peterrr Posted April 18, 2021 Share Posted April 18, 2021 I'm just about to attempt the same repair (same problem and model). Can you tel me which panels I need to remove to access the HVAC box end of the cable? Any other tips before I get started? Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamzilla Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 On 4/18/2021 at 10:20 PM, Peterrr said: I'm just about to attempt the same repair (same problem and model). Can you tel me which panels I need to remove to access the HVAC box end of the cable? Any other tips before I get started? Thanks in advance! How did you get on with it? I think I have the same issue and can't find much else besides this thread. The blower works fine but - as above - only getting out hot air. Engine block is being properly cooled, so I'm ruling out thermo / pump issues. Most other videos online have the pulley-type mechanism. But mine is the single steel cable. I traced it back as far as I could go without removing the glove box panel to get access behind the fuse box. So I haven't been able to visually confirm if there was a disconnect at the HVAC end. But I tugged on the cable as much as I could and nothing felt loose at all. I'm a bit perplexed 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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