Hi new to this site can anybody help mil light came on and went off a few times then when I put fuel in the gauge worked but the computer did not the following day the mil light came on
and drove it a sort distance all lights on the dashboard and clocks went dead but did not stop running drove home withe the lights and clocks going on and off parked up the next morning
the battery was totaly deadjump started the car and same problem all light  would go on and off also power stearing failer  on dash put it on a diagnostics pc delphi 5 it then gave me an error U0140
lost communication with body control module battery is still running dead flat but when I jump start it the battery is charging but the battery light is on on the dashboard also the rear window heater and front window heater switch lightswill not switch off abs handbrake mil lightplus the red warning lights stay on. when i rev it every thing on the dashboard goes dead but the car does not stop
I am at a loss as there are so many errors Iam finding it dificult to pinpoint what it may be hope somebody can help

thanks andre

could be the common problem with the solder on the 32 pin connector on the back of the instrument console. there are youtube videos about how to dismantle it and resolder. or companies you can send the instrument cluster to for resoldering.

It might not be that but it sounds like it could be 

Yes, definitely cluster pins issue.

Thanks I will  pull it out and have a look will let you  know how i get on

thanks for the replies

you wont be able to visually see if there is solder problem on the pins unless you dismantle the cluster. The solder is on the side of the PCB that you can't see. You have to take the needle pointers off etc to get to the side of the PCB that you need to see. Then you might see cracks on the solder with a magnifying glass. This is pretty small / fine soldering that needs doing with a thin tip soldering iron and a steady hand. If you got the PCB totally out of the cluster you might be able to get someone like a mobile phone repair place to solder it. It does not need someone who knows about cars, anyone who can solder fine electronics stuff well can do it. 

12 hours ago, isetta said:

you wont be able to visually see if there is solder problem on the pins unless you dismantle the cluster. The solder is on the side of the PCB that you can't see. You have to take the needle pointers off etc to get to the side of the PCB that you need to see. Then you might see cracks on the solder with a magnifying glass. This is pretty small / fine soldering that needs doing with a thin tip soldering iron and a steady hand. If you got the PCB totally out of the cluster you might be able to get someone like a mobile phone repair place to solder it. It does not need someone who knows about cars, anyone who can solder fine electronics stuff well can do it. 

Just make sure you make the gauge faces with masking tape to get the needles back in the correct position before you remove the needles 

On 1/29/2020 at 8:15 PM, isetta said:

solder on the 32 pin connector on the back of the instrument console.

does anyone know of someone who can do this in Horsham, West Sussex ...

Or any capable knowledgeable Ford people around here that can come and have a look 🤞🤞🤞

Sorry for the delay, had trouble logging in...

Been advised that some of the symptoms are bcm related so just getting the bcm out now, any tips on separating the bcm . All multi block connectors look clean and uncorroded , do all fuses have to be removed first..

Also central locking is not working, fob battery flat (have replacement ones somewhere at home, Mrs has moved them, probably never to be seen again!!! )

No tailgate release button in cabin, no keyhole in tailgate.... Great design 🙄🙄 , how do I access...

All knowledgeable help appreciated 🤞🤞

Cheers