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Central locking issue Ford Focus MK2 2009 1.6 diesel 5 door


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Hi I have an issue with my central locking and hoping someone can help me resolve it. The car is a 59 plate ford focus mk2 1.6 diesel 5 door hatch. I can only lock and unlock the drivers door and boot. The 3 passenger doors are all permanently locked and unable to be opened internally or externally. I get the same result whether using the remote or the key in driver door  My first thought was it could be a fuse or relay issue or even the remote battery. I tried replacing the remote battery but no difference then I removed the fuse box from car to check all fuses and see if any damage/moisture on any internals. All checked out fine so i refitted making sure all connections were secure.  Still no joy therefore I took off driver door fascia and played around with the wires to see if any damage  but to no avail they seemed solid well insulated and undamaged.  Just to recap the central locking works fine for driver door and boot only. The 3 passenger doors are locked shut and wont open from inside or out. My next train of thought was the central locking module. I seen many for sale on ebay so thought perhaps that was faulty. Ive searched and from what i can see my model doesn't have a separate module its incorporated into passenger fuse box. Mine must be facelift model   

No idea how to test a module if its incorporated into the fuse box. There doesn't seem to be any relays elsewhere relating to central locking it seems to be managed via this fuse box which is why I'm suspecting the fuse box/module fault. My code reader (Creader v111) shows no fault codes and doesn't have facility to check locking unfortunately. I am not a mechanic or auto electrician so perhaps im jumping to conclusions and missing something. Can anyone offer any other suggestions ?  

My next plan was to source a used replacement matching fuse box. Has anyone had any success replacing a fuse box with central locking module ? Would it be plug and play or would it need programmed ? The part number I can see printed is FORD 75MT- 14A073-CE. Does replacement have to be exact same reference number or is there any lee way ? 

Really hope someone can help me with this any advise  very much appreciated. 

 

 

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Doesn't sound dumb at all. We definitely haven't manually activated anything via individual doors but perhaps something electrical has kicked in. Ill have another look for a switch but perhaps its done via the remote control. I have tried the reset central locking procedure but no difference.

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Hiya Can anyone possibly advise on the replacement use box scenario ? Has anyone done this previously with success ? Does it need to be exact same reference number and would it have to be programmed afterwards ?

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you can set so only the drivers opens

if you locked via double locking (double tap of the remote button) then it would then seem likely you can't open the other doors from the inside or out (that's the purpose of double locking...) if those two scenarios have taken place then you should be in the situation u r in?

I forget but does double press on the remote help get all the doors open ?

 

yes you can change the GEM (under the glove box), yes u need at least the one you have, but it does need matching to the car with software and chassis number 

if its working enough you need to grab info with a laptop, there r three config files that customise its features to those your car needs.  Its possible with as built info, but for home guy eml config and a £20 quid cable lets you do it

the last 2 characters on the part number means its a basic unit C = it only supports a low toy count... but quite late in life with E (as you'd expect on a 2009 car), a CB was fitted to the most basic 2007 cars,  So an FE would be better and allow you to add more toys using a module from a higher spec car,  check how many pins the tip left connector has, on the link all pins are full where u only have 4 pins on the board.... the extras are needed for auto lights, self dimming mirror, rain light sensor, the extra alarm features and the roof mic !!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-MK2-C-MAX-BODY-CONTROL-MODULE-FUSE-BOX-BCM-7M5T-14A073-FE-519256317/353258323986?hash=item523fd64012:g:f2YAAOSwhL1fnchC

338442598_Doorlocks.thumb.jpg.67109cedc6b93a8d4980ffdd0bd7b392.jpg

 

 

 

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Thanks for taking the time and providing this excellent advice much appreciated. I will source a fuse box with compatible reference numbers as start off. I wasnt sure what you meant when you referred to cable and inputting config files so googled it and found product ELM327. Is this what you were referring to ? Does this allow me to get files from current unit using this and transfer to donor fuse box ?

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did you walk up to the car and double click the remote door unlock button.... I expect it just unlocks all 4 doors !!!

civil.ru there is a tool called eml config by some Russian guy, it allows you to do a lot of dealer type work on the car (that's where the picture comes from above - showing page 2 of 3 of the settings stored for my car in the GEM module)  it goes on the laptop and the data connection to the car goes via an APPROPRIATE USB / ODB2 adaptor lead

these cables are not generic, some are nasty and won't work, some are posh but useless, some have a toggle switch to allow you to switch between the different network speeds the car works with.  depending upon programming some cars need to talk across BOTH speeds at the same time, this is impossible without higher spec auto switching cables....

a VERY good new one just out allows better than dealer tools programming connection to the car - although you don't need auto switching to do this job and the eml tool was written to cope with manual switching for stuff it supports

https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-ex/

 

 

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Hi, Thanks again for getting back to me. Yes tried all combinations with remote definitely cant resolve it that way. The tool in your link is for USA store so ive been looking for uk supplier. Ive found this on amazon which seems to have great reviews and similar to your model. Do you reckon this would do the job or can you recommend one available from a uk provider  ?  https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3IQPNIJ75LWVW&psc=1

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I agree the link is USA and a fantastic price, direct from the people making it....  if I was starting with my first cable purchase ... I would ONLY buy that ODBLINK EX cable.

its does the work of a £1200 multiplexer unit - that capability for £80 is an utter bargain.  Your link SAYS its for the right bit.  If it is, its an OK price ( I would check when you get it if the latest firmware goes on - if not its FAKE)   https://www.scantool.net/downloads/updates/obdlink_ex/

if you want to go budget £20 you MUST get the right one, there are literally hundreds of duff Chinese bits of trash that are NO use at all

 

 

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Hi Botus, I had decided to play safe and go with your USA link you sent then interestingly noticed the address and contact is exact same as this amazon seller. I had already contacted scantool USA yesterday regarding an order but no response yet. It looks like they are one and the same .

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My OBDLINK EX will arrive today and just want to make sure I have everything I need. I have downloaded FORScan and also OBDwiz. Is it just a matter of plug and play from then on or do I need to do anything else ?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All finally getting round to addressing this one. I now have the connector and downloaded the software etc. Not showing any faults relating to the gem module but not sure if it would register anything. I can see the ASbuilt section. I firstly want to refresh it to see if it makes any difference. Do I just open the gem ASbuilt file and select write to refresh it ? If it makes no difference the plan is to source a compatible fuse box from breakers yard and code it to car. Im guessing I need to somehow save the Asbuilt file and write it to the new unit. Any tips links or guidance would be very much appreciated    

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ForScan is a powerful tool and you can wreck stuff... its also seems to me to have a confusing and non intuitive interface.

I suggested you use EMLConfig an idiot friendly tool, where you can get most stuff done in simple ways - its interface is almost exclusively intuitive and idiot proof.  Get the tool and the cable to play ball before you go anywhere near the car.  (some browser argue about downloading from his site... and you need the calibration stuff (which I believe is some madness about how ford sees the world that both Forscan and EMLConfig need setting up before the tools behave) http://civil.iffc.ru/ 

Using EMLConfig always make sure you select Focus or whatever rather than generic choices and the menu structure it really simple....

You only need to be in the GEM menus.... and go to each one... "read the module" to the tool and SAVE a copy to the PC for each of the three pages.... And Note down your complete chassis number.

Your could buy a new pollen filter and fit at the same time whilst the GEM is out ( to do a pollen filter you have to remove the right gem mounting bracket anyway)


Then disconnect the car battery, remove the GEM and with the two side by side ensure EVERY relay and fuse is in the same location on the new GEM (photos with your phone and the owners manual a good idea) and check each fuse is working, refit the new GEM...

With a battery charger ready to support the cars voltage ...   connect it back up and you MAY find the headlights come on (depends on the set up of the replacement part).... mine did, i could only toggle to park light to help the battery.  Then write your chassis number to the new GEM, then open each of the config files on the PC and write them back to the new GEM

Double check - the settings you understand are where you want them..... and save - Then all should work....

EMLConfig is for idiots playing and turning toys on and off.... Forscan is dealer style, boring nerd tool for experts maintaining or replacing stuff they understand...

BACK UP STUFF BEFORE YOU TRASH IT !!!!

 

 

 

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Hi All, Really need some advice. I Didn't even get as far as reading the car this time. I decided to double check wiring connections were tight beforehand just one last time. This time i went into engine bay fuse box. I unclipped the harness in pic and reinserted it. I then removed and reinserted the two relays bottom right corner of pic. All seemed fine and secure so went back in to the car only to find it would not start. Nothing whatsoever not engaging starter or turning over just nothing. A message on info screen says transmission malfunction.  I then plugged in the odblink EX opened forscan hoping to read faults but it said cannot connect to vehicle. I can only assume the harness and relay checks I done have tripped something as it was driving absolutely fine beforehand.  I tried removing battery terminals for 10 mins and putting back on to see if that resets anything but same situation. Has anyone got an idea what I have done wrong and what i need to do to rectify it ?  

169974214_focusenginefusebox.thumb.jpg.e3aafe84b1b6c0eb731f37d6a54cdf1f.jpg

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I managed to find the no start issue it was the large blue C90 connector. Even though it was locked down as per pic it couldn't have been seated correctly. I took it off again and seen that one of the pins wasn't sitting straight up so tweaked it into line refitted and it back in business.

I'm delighted this mishap happened as whilst trying to resolve it I actually found by total chance what I believe may be the root cause for original central locking fault. It seems to be down to a wiring loom within passenger fuse box. The connection itself is secure but I found  when I twisted the loom it engaged the other locks and they opened. I was actually searching for the ecu at the time and moved that wire out the way and heard the all locks engage. I done it couple times same result. They have locked again and cannot get it to repeat yet but at least I know the solution likely relates to that 3 wire loom. If that hadnt happened I can only imagine this would have been so difficult to be identified.   I will need to work out where the wire goes once it enters engine bay and try to find other end of it. If anyone has any idea please give me a shout  

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Hi again, For the life of me I cannot see where the other end of this 3 wired cable goes to. Does anyone know if the 3 wires go into the big blue C90 connector or do they go elsewhere ? 🤔

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are the interior lights operating ?

with the GEM fitted, when you unclip and allow it to fold down to see the fuses.... what's plugged in the TOP LEFT corner?

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Hiya, Yes interior lights work fine. The top left of gem unit is where this connector fits. I'm trying to work out where the cable from this connector goes to. If I can find where it ends up I can hopefully find a way to rewire it.

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are you saying you have two plugs like that that look very similar ?

if so does one have a lot more wires than the other?  I have two on mine....

I left the basic loom in place (unplugged) and fitted a loom off a higher spec car, with extra wires for the acoustic alarm, the rain / light sensor, dimming interior mirror, mic wires and more interior lights

 

the top left connector of the gem goes up the left door pillar to the roof and the interior light.... 

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Hiya, The connector I was referring to was fits into the top left of attached pic and has 3 wires. This was the one I believed was actuating the locks when I twisted it the other day. All the doors unlocked but I have since done same and cannot get it to repeat so beginning to doubt myself. Is that the connector you were referring to ? I cannot find anything online to identify what that connector relates to. I have also noticed that on the underside of this same module facing the floor there are another two connectors. I found when I release and re-insert one of them the driver door lock clicks softly so that connector must be related to central locking in some way. I have reached out to another member who mentioned they had a wiring diagram for this car in an old post. Perhaps that will identify the wires I need to focus on 

ford-focus-fuse-box-diagram-passenger-compartment-2007.jpg

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yep u must have a basic car... unplug the interior light will go out

 

aside from the top left on a basic car, I wouldn't be unplugging ANY of those wires with the battery connected !!!!

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Yep I know its far from ideal would prefer to explore with battery disconnected. The problem is Im trying to recreate and locate the problem wire in live. One of the wires when pressed opened every door for first time in 2 months.  I thought it was the cable I pictured but not getting it to repeat so as it stands all passenger doors remain locked. Can I ask where did you get the info on that wires routing and does it show what it relates to other than interior light ?   Basically I am trying to identify which of all the wires entering the gem unit have a part to play in central locking. At least one of them is playing up hence it triggered unlocking when it was pressed. Botus I was upside down with a torch in my mouth squashed into the footwell at the time 😂   🤣 . I can only see diagrams that identify fuses and relays cant see anything yet that identifies the actual connectors and individual pins. If you can point me in direction of that source that would be brilliant help.  My 2009 model with C/L integrated into gem makes searching a bit more tricky. Does that make my model MK2.5 ?

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I swapped my GEM and added another loom to power all the extras the higher spec GEM supports

from your pic only 3 wires (?) and they have NOTHING to do with the door locks (my basic one had 4 wires only - the later one uses nearly all of them - 12 or so used from vague memory)

you'd be better off checking a wiring diagram and working out which wires actually have anything to do with the central locking.... with about 150 wires going in the gem when u thought touching that plug did something u really disturbed 20 others somewhere else.

often the heater matrix goes and it pours antifreeze all over the GEM and I think in bad weather you might give it a bath with rain water if the screen drains are full of 12 years worth of leaf litter no one cleared out...

One simple idea might be to disconnect the battery, remove the GEM and look for corrosion on any pins and pull and replace all fuses and relays using some contact cleaner and product designed to cope with electricals to kill corrosion (like ACF50) and remake all the connections whilst looking for damaged wires etc.

 

FYI there is a strange procedure on the petrol ones to set up the throttle body whenever the battery has been off ....

with the battery nowhere near anything, short the two battery cables (+ & -)  to wipe any residual charge in capacitors for 30 seconds.... reconnect the battery.... turn off the AC, turn off the lights, turn off the heater fan....   now start the car without touching the throttle pedal let the car idle for 20 mins till full temp reached...

if you don't the throttle will feel lazy and it'll be a bit slower - its some stupid calibration of the fly by wire throttle and its idle speed adjustment as it warms up

 

 

 

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Hiya, I had gem off and in house few weeks ago as that was suggested before definitely no corrosion on pins and all fuses were fine. I replaced the few that related to central locking with new ones anyway. Yes totally agree I need to concentrate on all wires relating to central locking its pinpointing which ones those are I'm struggling with. Its great help you discounted that connector as it was certainly throwing me off the scent. The answer does lie within the gem and its wiring/connectors if I can get hands on a diagram of that it will go a long way to solving this. Is there an accessible  ford website you know of that may have this detail ?

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