Hi,

I'm a new member and wonder if anyone can help me with a problem. I was overtaking a slow car. slipped down to forth and had just overtook when I lost power. The car still drove on but there was no acceleration and didn't want to go over 3000 rpm. When I got home I got the wife to rev the car and a noise seemed to appear from the back of the engine, but again it would not rev above 3000 rpm. There is no noise from the turbo. When the car is cold and started up smoke comes out of the exhaust but I think disappears when driving and when the engine is warm. A friend of mine has a 1.8 diesel and said that he may had the same problem and had to renew a hose at the rear. I cant see any hoses at the top but got this image of the rear of the engine and saw hoses coming out of a cylinder. Could this be what he's talking about and could this be the issue? What is this cylinder? The PDF was removed at 90,000 miles and it has 130,000 miles with no previous issues. The car will still drive, but no acceleration.

Can anyone help. 

Hello David, welcome to the Ford Owners Club. 👍

Thank You for welcoming me the club.

I have a problem with my car and a friend suggested contacting this site as he got help for it in the past. I have just submitted my question. Heres hoping that someone can help?

Kind Regards

David

 

27 minutes ago, David BT38 said:

A friend of mine has a 1.8 diesel and said that he may had the same problem and had to renew a hose at the rear.

Do you want to buy a new electric Cooker ?    (Don't answer that)

Best not to guess whats wrong as it can get expensive. The fact the engine won't rev over 3000RPM is normal when the engine is running in limp mode. You need to connect up to the OBDII port and read the fault codes.

Use a laptop and connect using an ELM327 lead. The software to use is called Forscan. Once you have the DTC's then it will be possible to work out the fault.

Lead available from:-   https://tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx

Software from:-   https://forscan.org/download.html

Hi Unofix,

Sorry new to this. Is this a simple thing to do. Buy this lead, download the software and plug in?

 

Kind Regards

David.

16 minutes ago, David BT38 said:

Is this a simple thing to do. Buy this lead, download the software and plug in?

Yes pretty much. There's loads of topics online on how to use it.

I had a 1.6tdci and based on experience, 3000 rpm suggests it is in limp mode. But has the engine management light come on?  mine kept going into limp mode with engine management light coming on.  I got one of the tunnelrat code readers. This showed fault code for low fuel pressure. So I replaced the fuel filter and it was fine after that.  The fuel filter change schedule is 37,500 miles. Mine had done nearly 120k without me changing it. So it was well overdue. 

whilst fitting the filter was quite easy, getting the air bled out of the pipes so the car would start and keep going was very troublesome. 

The 1.8tdci engine is totally different to 1.6tdci, everything is in different places eg. 1.8tdci has turbo on back of engine, 1.6tdci has turbo on front of engine. 

Everyone should have one of those fault code readers in the glove box.  the software for windows  is free, but I had to pay about 6 or 7 quid to get the app on my iphone. Note that the 'modified with switch' gives it added functionality on fords.  You can get cheaper code readers but tunnelrat has been recommended on here for years and I would rather  just buy theirs rather than risk paying less and regretting it. 

 

Hi Isetta,

Thank you for your reply.

No the engine management light did not come on neither did the red ! light in the centre of the dials. I changed the filter around 100,000 mile mark and yes I had the same trouble getting the diesel into the filter but I bought a one way hand pump out of EBay (like the one that use to be fitted in Peugeot's) for a few quid and although messy it worked, but I filled the new filter up with fuel first.

Yes I will purchase one of these gadgets, but I see three types on there website, there is an automatic one for a few quid more that makes it easier to switch over from MS to HS and vice-versa. What do you think?

I take it that its still safe to drive?

5 hours ago, David BT38 said:

there is an automatic one for a few quid more that makes it easier to switch over from MS to HS and vice-versa. What do you think?

The one with the switch is no real problem as Forscan tells you when to change the switch. I would think the automatic one would also work well but I've not tried it myself. Do not get the BlueTooth version as it has limitations as to what it can do.

Thanks Unofix,

I'm about to order one up now. Is it still safe to drive the car?

1 hour ago, David BT38 said:

Is it still safe to drive the car?

Difficult to answer witout knowing what the problem is. I would try not to use the car as much as possible and only do short journys. If there are no warning lights on at the moment then limited use of the car maybe ok, but if you start getting warnings then I would recommend not driving it until the fault has been identified

Thanks Unofix,

By the way do you know if there is a timing belt on his car and when does it need replaced?

Yes it has belt, think Ford says 125k miles but on my previous fiesta 1.6tdci I did it at about 115k as I was getting nervous. Compared to some cars (eg petrol 1.6 focus) it is quite an easy job on the 1.6tdci. As only one cam pulley and the crankshaft pulley is keyed to the shaft

Thanks again for your help. I have 113,000 miles. Worth getting a Hayes workshop manual? If they still exist or is there something in the forums

2 hours ago, David BT38 said:

Worth getting a Hayes workshop manual? If they still exist

The mk2 focus does have a Haynes manual. People forget that touchscreen phones weren't the norm when the mk2 was released, everything was still very much paper copies.

If you plan on fixing stuff yourself then it's worth getting, but if you're one of those people who's not willing to venture out more than just doing oil changes and swapping fuses out, then it's pointless.

Thanks for the advice Luke 4efc,

Years ago I took the plunge on a VW Passat. Hope this is less complicated. I have always relied on a Hayes manual in the past.

On 8/5/2021 at 4:57 PM, David BT38 said:

Hi,

I'm a new member and wonder if anyone can help me with a problem. I was overtaking a slow car. slipped down to forth and had just overtook when I lost power. The car still drove on but there was no acceleration and didn't want to go over 3000 rpm. When I got home I got the wife to rev the car and a noise seemed to appear from the back of the engine, but again it would not rev above 3000 rpm. There is no noise from the turbo. When the car is cold and started up smoke comes out of the exhaust but I think disappears when driving and when the engine is warm. A friend of mine has a 1.8 diesel and said that he may had the same problem and had to renew a hose at the rear. I cant see any hoses at the top but got this image of the rear of the engine and saw hoses coming out of a cylinder. Could this be what he's talking about and could this be the issue? What is this cylinder? The PDF was removed at 90,000 miles and it has 130,000 miles with no previous issues. The car will still drive, but no acceleration.

Can anyone help. 

did you solve the problem? I have the same problems

On 2/15/2023 at 10:14 AM, busy2k said:

did you solve the problem? I have the same problems

And me too but a bit more involved as I've got a non starter.

Only 150 miles since Repair,service and MoT. In the work the garage removed all the fuel as they said it was contaminated and charged for disposal and for 30lit of fresh fuel - I have added no fuel since.The repair was a recovery to garage situation and for the same fault. This is now about the 4th fuel filter in c2yrs/2000m. The car gets little use but always up to working temp on 10~30 mile trips with 'Italian tune-ups' thrown in.

All previous occasions a change of filter/bleeding has recovered to working order but my local garage cannot attend until 27th Feb. I have never bled a diesel using a vacuum pump and at 86yo I'm not confident!

I have my suspicions that it is pulling air in somehow and thinking connections have deteriorated or maybe lift pump faulty.

As you can guess I'm wary of being 'upsold' repair work way above the market value of the car.

Thus unbiased opinion and personal experience from folks here would be gratefully received

Hi, i have a 2010 ford focus sedan shape. i had an issue with the cluster clock i got it changed and reprogrammed but now the car has no acceleration  i changed the pedal and still nothing what do i do?

2 hours ago, jev said:

what do i do?

Buy a RHD model, they work better 😉

Use FORScan and read the DTC's and find out what codes are stored.