Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum. And hope someone can help. So hears my issue. I got a coolant leak it coming from underneath the oil cooler. So I thought it's coming from the thermostat housing. So I decided to buy a new one took it all apart fitted the housing. Cleaning all around it. Fill back up with water let it bleed its self. Only to notice it's still leaking coolant. Its running from underneath the oil cooler. I've recheck that it's not coming from the new thermostat housing check all around it. So its running from behind the oil cooler and on to the down pipe has it bends under the engine. Could this be a crack head ? 

Try using something like 'Holts - Wondarweld' or 'K-Seal Permanent Coolant Leak Repair'

1 hour ago, unofix said:

Try using something like 'Holts - Wondarweld' or 'K-Seal Permanent Coolant Leak Repair'

Noooooo that's about the worst 'repair' you could do!!!

2 hours ago, Bish101 said:

So its running from behind the oil cooler and on to the down pipe has it bends under the engine. Could this be a crack head ? 

On a 12 year old car, if a major engine repair is not an practical option, then trying a fix like Radweld or K-seal is better than going straight to the scrappy. I used K-seal on a head leak on a Vauxhall, and it did work. I don't know how long it would have lasted, the car failed MoT on emissions, probably cat, maybe because of the anti-freeze in the cat while the leak was there. But it gained me valuable time, getting me up to my mother's house for Christmas, and all through to October, with time to investigate and find another car (the one I have now). So it was a very well spent £7 or so. It was the 2nd head leak that car had, the 1st one cost me £700 to, temporarily as it turned out, get fixed.

But you need to be reasonably sure of the the leak location. Radweld (& maybe Wonderweld) work differently to K-Seal. K-Seal works on long, thin leak paths like a cylinder head, or cracks in thick castings, and needs heat. Radweld works where a leak evaporates outside a radiator or hose leak. You may need to test it when hot and pressurised, carefully wiping the area dry, then testing with paper or dry cloth to find the place the water appears. Also check for the smell of anti-freeze in the exhaust.

Both these repair methods have limitations, and can sometimes have long term bad consequences, but if used for the job they are intended, and the cost of a full repair cannot be justified, then they are a viable alternative.

 

1 hour ago, Luke4efc said:

Noooooo that's about the worst 'repair' you could do!!!

I think we will have to agree to disagree on this. His alternative is to spend potentially more money trying to fix the problem than a Fiesta of that age is worth.